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Star M249 Para Examined...


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Dan thanks for the guide I was able to get in and sand the nozzle and get it back togeather with out a problem.The nozzle seems to not be as tight on the cylinder head anymore and it still punches through both sides of a coke can with the stock spring so I didnt loose any compression.Now I have to wait untill saturday to see if the cold still effects it.

Edited by Sure Shot
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Dan thanks for the guide I was able to get in and sand the nozzle and get it back togeather with out a problem.The nozzle seems to not be as tight on the cylinder head anymore and it still punches through both sides of a coke can with the stock spring so I didnt loose any compression.Now I have to wait untill saturday to see if the cold still effects it.

 

 

 

no problem sure shot, hope it helped,

let us know how you get on, on saturday.

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Hear hear! I see the rail covers in the stores here in HK, but I wouldn't have a clue how to mod the beast to mount it. Is this something simple, or does it require dremeling and potentially serious damage to the AEG? Is any one 'better' (easier to install) than the others?

 

Al.

 

I borrowed my friend's topcover from his TOP M249 and it didn't fit. I'm assuming that the CA is the same as the TOP so it probably won't fit without some modification.

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Does anybody have any idea where i would find MK2 stock to my Para?

 

Havnt seen any STAR stocks around, but you can get a CA MKII 249 stock here:

http://airsoftglobal.com/product_info.php?...a066079d14b1fd3

I do NOT know if it will fit, but maybe someone in this thread has tried it out? :blink:

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A quick photo of how I managed to add a forward grip without cutting or modifing the gun. I had a spare RIS grip, and with the addition of a self tapping screw and a metal plate fixed through the bipod legs, got a grip without the need for a RIS rail. The only thing I had to do was cut away some of the grips plastic in order to fit it securely. Hope this helps those on a budget.post-6514-1142190624_thumb.jpg

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WGC has one for TOP, but I think you would need an adapter to get it on the STAR since the two have different threads

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...9MKOB_srch_m249

 

Alternatively, you could try looking for someone with an MK2 looking to switch to a PARA.

Edited by rasheem
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WGC has one for TOP, but I think you would need an adapter to get it on the STAR since the two have different threads

 

http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...9MKOB_srch_m249

 

Alternatively, you could try looking for someone with an MK2 looking to switch to a PARA.

Thanks Ill look into that.

 

And if anyone stateside is intrested in trading their longer MKII barrel for my para barrel,let me know.

 

I also ran into a problem this weekend at a game,when a team mate charged a bunker with my m249 and cleard it out,after he took his finger off the trigger the box mag kept going, the problem was a little metal tab that taps togeather when the trigger is pulled bent and was just laying ontop of the other connection below is pics of what happened.

IMAG0033.jpg

IMAG0031.jpg

UPDATE:I emailed Star and this is what they wrote back.

We are sorry to hear your M249 got this problem. Since you can take the photo for us to show the parts require to repair, we believed you can fix it also. So the fastest way is we send that repair parts to you. Would you mind let us know your address for us to send that parts for you to repair? Thank you.

 

Regards

 

Star

Edited by Sure Shot
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Can anyone assist me in getting the plastic flashider off of my Para, so I can attach my metal flash hider?

 

You should just turn it anti CW(at least thats how it works on my MKII barrel) Or maybe there is a small allen screw that holds it in place(thats what you need to do when removing the flashhider from the MKII barrel)

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Sure shot, the same exact thing happened to my feed trigger mechanism, i trimmed back the plastic on top to expose more of the broken contact, then soldered it back on, and its been fine...but if they're gonna send you a new one thats even better. thats pretty damn cool of them, i should have asked them for a new one i guess.

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Yeah a part like that shouldnt break from normal wear,but as you saw it was pretty cheap to begin with.You could still contact them,I emailed ASGI first then I went to Star and got a responce from Star first but ASGI was also willing to help.This is what ASGI emailed me.

 

Dear Customer

Hi, thank you for your enquiry. We have emailed your problem with JAG Precision and STAR. We will get back with you with an answer once we receive a respond. Thank you

 

So as you can see their all willing to help.

 

And as I said,I used the wire and connector that was broken and used that the make to boxmag work via an external switch which I will take back out and keep in the case incase the second part they send me fails.

Edited by Sure Shot
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The same part failed on my gun as well. Like you I emailed ASGI about it and received the same response. That was on January 14th. I emailed them again on the 22nd asking for an update but I got no response. On March 1st I tried again, they responded that they still had not heard back from Star/JAG on the issue and that they would email them again. :(

 

I emailed Star directly yesterday. Hopefully I hear back form them soon. How long did it take you to get a response from them?

 

I'm dismayed to hear this part has failed in three cases that we know of. I hope they improve it down the line.

 

I also soldered mind back together as WarMonger did, but mine keeps getting hyper-extended and stops working. I need to go in and tweak it a bit I guess.

 

I'm actually after three parts:

 

Trigger (Gave up on this and modified an old M4 trigger to work for now)

DSCN0004.sized.jpg

 

Mag Winding Switch (I sort of repaired it as I mentioned)

IMG_7690.sized.jpg

 

Trigger Assembly Plate (I've managed to superglue this for now)

IMG_7691.sized.jpg

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Static didnt ASGI send you another trigger?

 

Star got back to me about 12 hours later.

 

Heres what I did to my box mag for a temporary fix,the toggle will eventually be replaced with a pressure button.I used the wire and connector from the broken part and pluged it into the connector in the box mag then got a $3 toggle from radio shack.And drilled a small half inch hole on the side of the box mag by the trigger guard to the point where I could turn it on and off with my middle finger.This is just an idea for some of you who are having thes same probelm with the part failing.

IMAG0019.jpg

IMAG0010.jpg

IMAG0001.jpg

Edited by Sure Shot
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Since we're experiencing trouble in paradise:

 

Stock bevel gear, stock spur gear and Systema pinion gear #1 in mine gave up the ghost a couple of weeks ago. In the course of examining the spur gear and bevel gear I learned they were turning off axis, or wobbling, if you will.

 

I subsequently replaced the gears and the mechbox (to the Wild Monkey box) and lost bevel gear #2 as well as pinion gear #2 following a brief test session.

 

I was on the ragged edge with an 11.1v LiPo battery and a Systema High Speed motor (wonder why it broke ), so I dialed back the power and speed to a 9.6v NiMh battery and the stock motor. Damn, it sounded terrifying with a LiPo battery in it...and will again, eventually.

 

Hopefully it will survive its torture test at Ord this weekend. I'll revisit the LiPo battery at some point in the near future - I think I had seated the motor incorrectly and it MAY HAVE BEEN a user problem, not a speed problem. I thought back to my last reshim of the box and couldn't remember adjusting the motor height other than a perfunctory 'hmm, that looks about right' and bolting it back together and not adjusting it properly after replacing pinion head #1 with pinion head #2.

 

With the rate of fire produced by a LiPo pack, I should have known better than to assume that the motor was ok. Serves me right.

 

On another note, I've determined that my outer barrel is mounted crookedly. As a result, the 'top' of the hop up is canted very slightly toward 11 o'clock, resulting in bbs that float left. Not major, just annoying.

Edited by Wupjak
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