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You shouldn't gain any extra range from 0.25s mate - in fact you'll probably lose range. Imagine it like this...


You hit a ping pong ball (0.25g), a golf ball (0.30g), a cricket ball (0.40g) and a cannonball (0.50g) with the same force. Each one represents a different weight BB respectively - alright the size isn't the same but I'm not taking 'drag' or other factors into this - just purely look at it from a weight perspective.


The ping pong ball will go quite a way but because of its lower weight it won't carry as much energy as the golf ball (you could get into inertia and all that jazz) and will be affected by wind fairly easily. The golf ball will carry more transfer of the energy and go further with less effect from the wind. The cricket ball may not go as far as the golf ball, but during its flight it will be less affected by wind and other factors - giving a more accurate flight. The cannonball will travel even less still - but would require a lot of wind to knock it off course.


What I'm getting at is an optimum weight that will go the furthest distance - any lighter and they'll drop sooner, any heavier and the same will happen. However as you increase the weight of your ammo, you're more likely to get a more accurate shot simply because the wind isn't going to affect it as much.


It's a basic way of looking at it and not entirely correct - but its the principle behind it that I'm trying to get across. If you're running a high-powered setup at sites that allow it, then stick with 0.29s and above - any less and either your BBs will fly up (even with no hop) or probably shoot a little bit too 'wildly' to be accurate enough at distance.

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A heavier mass keeps a major inertia and a better hop-up momentum, so a straighter trajectory, then a lighter one, with the same air friction.


On the contrary, friction will cause significant deviation with a light bullet, fact that cancel any possible gain in muzzle velocity.


In fact, heavier even if slower bullets means a longer range and a better accuracy. ;)

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Anyone found an optimum weight for 500 FPS Tanaka M700 A.I.C.S.?


I use .25's, but will probably switch to SGM's from the general consensus?


I use SGM's since they get there faster, so there is less chance i'll miss due to enviroment factors/movement


non coated .36's have about the same groupings but have more punch to cut through brush.

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I think you are right CHEF: graphite coating does ring a bell. Mot sure why it is now commonly called teflon instead. I have never used graphite coated pellets and always got the white 0.36g


Lighter pellets may not go further overall, but you don't have to aim as high at extended range targets. ie the HOP keeps the lighter pellet spinning on a level trajectory for a greater distance.


The 0.30g is a nice weight but I still think SIIS 0.33g could be the optimum pellets for a 500fps-550fps rifle. 0.36g are good even in a lower powered rifle if you can get a enough HOP. They take longer to get there but crosswind has less effect on flight path than lighter faster pellets.


0.25g are only good for sub 1 joule setups. After that step up to 0.28g at least.


Happy Hunting. ;)

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Just a quick question RE: Digicon Straights on Airsoft Scotland...




It says for the 0.36g BBs - "Medium weight sniper rounds, now WHITE teflon coated"


Are these still coated with graphite or are they plain old BBs without the coating? I'd like to give a heavier weight another try, but last time I got some Straights they left a silvery graphite gunk on my hop rubber. Hence when I switched back to SGMs the hop was very sketchy.


Any help or where best to buy them from in the UK would be top.


Cheers chaps :)

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