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kullwarrior

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Everything posted by kullwarrior

  1. So exactly what is the general rule of thumb? I read through it there's still no definite answer, just got a 5-7 with Guarder frame set. According to the Marui manual, you should not use this gun abover 40 degrees celsius with HFC134a is around 130psi Now 40 degrees with propane/green gas/ top gas is around 204psi 30 degrees is 155psi... so if you use propane around 80F or 26.7C it would be 128psi (the limit they recommended) Is there anyone here got a blown slide using propane below 25 degrees? (In Canada, HFC134a are bloody expensive $10 for 12oz vs propane 16.4 oz for $5) I'
  2. I was really disappoint how easily was it to break the magazine floorplate tabs. WHen you break it, the only fix is to glue the floorplate to the mag body.
  3. kullwarrior

    KJW M4

    In another word, is it similiar to GHK's WA M4 design?
  4. kullwarrior

    KJW M4

    WA selector can be modified to Semi auto as with WE, since KJW uses AR-15 selector system it should work.
  5. kullwarrior

    KJW M4

    Just wondering if anyone here manage to conver the M4 into a M16. I'm talking mostly about the A2 fixed stock. Which one did they use? WA or AEG spec? I know about the UBR from god knows which page but didn't read anywhere about the A2 Fixed stock.
  6. Having handled a SL8 (Civilian G36) I can safely tell you guys that non of the airsoft polymer are actually as durable as the H&K ones. They might feel similiar, but if you drop it in sub zero temperature it will crack. and break.
  7. It's just because the amount of money I dump into fixing WA type GBBR was insane, and as with ptw, one bad move to disassemble the gun end up being $200 bill (forgot about the wires for stock tube take down) Sounds familiar somewhat, can you release the gas just by pressing the release with your thunb? or do you really need to push it? or do you need a hammer? (If you fill the mag with too much liquid propane it will make the release alot harder. I really don't think it's the hammer spring, unless you store your gun cocked, which you shouldn't.
  8. IF IT's NOT BROKEN, DON'T FIX IT. Generally that rule will avoid alot of problem.
  9. k, that's gonna be fun... Where do I source the micro allen wrench needed to disassemble the gun? KWA USA one hasn't arrive yet, nor did they provide tracking #.
  10. Just a question, my MP7 was good till yesterday when bb stop coming out (so that you get 2,3,4...rounds in barrel) The only way I clear it is switch to full auto on empty. What problem is this from? -My hopup rubber looks fine although bb seem to be coming out oily (from the ones fall out of the barrel) -My Nozzle Spring is damage, I mod one by shortening it to increase tension so far its good as new (until my replacement comes) -My Nozzle has no damage -My seal base (held on the bolt) was losened at one point but I rescrew it in and it does not wobble at all.
  11. Agreed, KSC JAPAN will need to replace the nozzle as it will crack KSC Taiwan is the same as KWA except it doesn't have the 6mm, >1Joule, and Umarex white wording claims KWA USA is the one you dont need to cover up the trade to avoid seizure.
  12. just replace the entire Fill valve from KWAUSA
  13. Some people chose to upgrade their barrel to 6.03mm tightbore, Personally if it aint broken don't fix it. The take down looks complicated in my KSC MP7 Manual. I won't screw it over 20 feet extra range. I will say on 0.28g bb the gun can hit accurately up to 120feet (100% under controlled environment) Getting a sling mount will help alot Nine Ball type is the best choice right now, don't use the frame sling mount, people have reportly snapping it off using Factory H&K Sling.
  14. How strong would the KSC Mp7 Taiwan be when you have the Shooter Design Rocket valve install? I'm wondering because my gov't think if the gun doesn't shoot hot enough it's dangerous (<430fps on 0.2g), if it's too hot it's dangerous too. (500fps+ & 5.7J+)
  15. hmm anyone have any idea to fix the faulty connection for the G&P aimpoint? Im using on a GBBR, and it seem that the shaking will knock the thing out of connection so even if its on the on position it would turn off. (had to knock it a few times to turn on) sometimes it doesnt turn off but reduce brightness. So far the biggest thing the affect it is the battery cover. Im torquing it to max and it still has this problem...
  16. Nice pretty good lab report. I'd say... (more control than High School lab I'll tell ya) Might wanna try a graph of velocity over temperature on various mags. Consistency would probably show its true colour there. Should be something looks similiar to parabolic (-10 degrees, -5, 0, 5, 10, 15) Just the mags need to be cool, the gun it self is not the factor.
  17. I agree, only thing I would say is you need to sand portion of the nozzle from the injection spot.
  18. same as Ino 2009 ver yes, NOT the same as the Ino superversion
  19. base on the finish I see in picture I would rate the metal body as followed: AGM -crappiest G&P/ WOC Series Inokatsu Prime/ Bomber Custom For the realism, ino will win over prime as prime is CNC where as ino is forge. AR-15 receivers are forged AFAIK with the exception in MUR-1 by VLTOR
  20. From what I encounter most of the time yes it can, if you use good bb which wont chop. Bad bb chop will ruin your hop up and nozzle. I would suggest Bomber series over WOC since its CNC 6064 aluminium instead of pot metal aluminium
  21. from what I've know thats a negative. I wonder where did 5KU clone it from...RA-Tech I will guess, afterall it is 5KU who clone NPAS.
  22. just do it on the spots where prime did
  23. kullwarrior

    KJW M4

    keep in mind Plastic is a better choice when it comes to resisting temperature change, aluminium will certtainly change temperature with extremely low heat capacity.
  24. I own one of 30mm Red dot ones, just a comment to add. Compared to the following: (I've shot firearms with their optics both in Canada and U.S. [true assault rifles in U.S.]) *Trjicon Reflex the one it use was the NSN version which has the killflash and its the 4.0 MOA dot *EOTech 511 A.65 Center dot 1 MOA In my opinion the G&P one isnt the best, why? because the dot is not a circle but rather a weird oval which has all the sides of a circle except right bottom corner for mine. The dot at Lowest setting looks like atleast 5.5MOA which kinda disappoints me.
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