sacairsoftsn00py Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) Thanks for the response regarding the cast mark dude I'll go take a pic of how my BAD lever sits with a magazine inserted (similar shot to the second photo you just posted). BRB. --------------------- BAD lever has 1.5mm clearance from the lower receiver. I guess I just bent mine a tad more than you did on yours... Edited July 31, 2011 by sacairsoftsn00py Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted July 31, 2011 Report Share Posted July 31, 2011 (edited) I guess I just bent mine a tad more than you did on yours... Hmmm...I guess so, oh well both of our B.A.D. levers do what they're made to do haha Edited July 31, 2011 by akiraspeedstar Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Looks like Im getting the SOCOM! BTW, is it ok to talk about the SOCOM on the sopmod thread? I wasn't sure if there was a separate thread for it... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Sometimes I wish I bought a SOCOM instead, but I got a good deal on the CQB-R (also they had it in stock at a local store). Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 akira, since you're also in the US, what retailer did you buy it from? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
akiraspeedstar Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 I bought my gun from PowerEdge, though I got it from the retail store in Hawaii. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isamu Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) Long time I dont post in the thread... but a quick question. Im planning on making my socom into a CQBR with a free float rail, so I need to know what do I need to make it happen, so far my part list is: Element Larue 9" rail Dytac 10.5" outer barrel madbull/ guarder 300mm inner barrel Do you know if these parts are drop-in kits or they will need any modding? Thanks Edited August 1, 2011 by Isamu Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Number5 Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) Does anyone have a hopup unit (compete) they dont want!? really struggling to find anywhere with one in stock. Also has anyone tried the Metal hop chamber, by Lonex I think, any improvement? noticeable at all? Edited August 1, 2011 by Number5 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Honzo Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 No U.S. retailer has the TM socom except airsoftatlanta...but they priced it for 570!!! GOOD LORD Quote Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 (edited) Does anyone have a hopup unit (compete) they dont want!? really struggling to find anywhere with one in stock. Echigoya have them , $29 each BUT it's another $21 P&P ! http://echigoya-guns.com/guns/index.php?route=product/product&path=58&product_id=312 Edited August 1, 2011 by druid799 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Do you know if these parts are drop-in kits or they will need any modding? Can't see a problem with any of those. I'd add a low-pro gas block to the list, but other than you should be fine. Whether a li-po will fit inside the LaRue rail I couldn't say, I've not actually seen one in person, but I suppose you can always got for a PEQ if worst comes to worst. That would be the advantage with going for the Laylax 10.5" barrel instead of the Dytac, apart from the increase in quality, it's already got the battery space cut out underneath. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Isamu Posted August 1, 2011 Report Share Posted August 1, 2011 Im planning to rewire to the back and use a small lipo in the gap between the tube and the stock, dont like peqs to be honest. Yes, the low profile gas block is in the list too, but I didnt expect it to give me any fitting problems or "quality" issues as its just a cosmetic stencil Thanks for the advice, this gun has become a money black hole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 between the tube and the stock As in, the gap behind the buffer tube with the stock fully extended? I'd leave the re-wiring until after you've fitted the rail. A li-po may well fit inside, and that'll save you a lot of effort on the wires as well retain your stock adjustment for you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
elanaiba Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 There was somebody earlier in this thread with a twin panel lipo in a Larue Style Rail. He would connect / disconnect the battery from the front, but you can imagine the take down is kinda a Pain in the A** - any time you want to work on the inner barrel, you have to take down the rail to disconnect the wires. And the Larue is not easy to take down For batteries fit to the front, i recommend a DD RIS 2, a URX or some other rail with removable bottom. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 For batteries fit to the front, i recommend a DD RIS 2, a URX or some other rail with removable bottom. Echo that, reason I went for the MRF. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 A team mate (Stewpidbear on here) has a TM sopmod Ris on his socom and he got a split 7.4v 1200 batt from vapextech that fits it nicely . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 Oh yeah... forgot about the KAC RAS. Not often anyone buys one of those as an aftermarket part now-a-days. It'd work though, quite a good candidate in a way because all you have to do to get the lower rail off and access your connectors is pull back on the delta ring, same as plastic handguards. Probably not the kind of thing Isamu is after though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
druid799 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 (edited) True enuf but posted for were you could get a lipo that'll fit comfortably in ris units if wanted . Edited August 2, 2011 by druid799 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 No that's a perfectly valid point, I was just kind of rambling AR related stuff + thoughts from my brain and letting them out in to the forum. I do that a lot, wasn't questioning what you'd posted. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Odd. So I left my TM New Gen M4 SOCOM in my car. It was probably up to 95 degrees Fahrenheit (which meant over 100 degrees in my car). My gun is still hot to the touch. I bought me some Javelin .20g BBs from the local Airsoft Extreme store and proceeded to chrono my gun. The hop is still set for .25g BBs. Using the Xcortech shooting chrony, my shots registered to be between 302-309 FPS with the Javelin .20g BBs. Previously, I had gotten FPS readings in the 290 FPS range using my left over TM .20g BBs. Hmmm..I'll have to set my hop for .20g BBs, then check in the AM how hard this puppy shoots again. As far as ROF goes, I was shooting 16.92-17.09 RPS using a Hyperion 7.4v 2100mah 25C lipo. To my knowledge, the battery is pretty darn close to being fully charged (as I had only previously shot less than 100 rounds after I had it fully charged). Yes, my gun is still stock... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Richard Y Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 heat does all kinds of things, orings expand, barrels shrink also has large effects on hop rubbers. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 64 degrees f. 716am. Hop set for javelin .2g bbs. Fps registered at 300-307 with majority of the shots within 302-304. On my phone driving to work. K thx bai ! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Trijicon front and rear sights. The part of the front sight post that screws into the front sight assembly base was too long. It had to be dremeled out. This caused the front sight post to pop out of place. The front sight post was in two pieces with one part being the front sight post with the tritium insert and the other being the base which screws into the front sight assembly). It will be attached into place with super glue once I have the correct elevation for the sight figured out. The diameter of the round area of the front sight post was also about .3mm larger than the stock front sight post so it too had to be sanded down. The rear sight has a larger thread diameter. The tension of the metal spring retainer pushes up on the rear sight's peep hole however which keeps it from sliding side to side. I might end up putting some material on the rear sight's screw (maybe some shrink tubing) so I can get better fitting between the two....or track down a RS AR-15 carry handle so I can mount the rear peep sights perfectly. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TheFull9 Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Makes me want iron sights again, and that's no mean feat. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted August 3, 2011 Report Share Posted August 3, 2011 Iron sighting is full of win dude...specially when your bb placing consistently sails just above the front sight post I was looking into possibly installing a mosfet for my gun as I wanted a 3 round burst on it. Only thing is that most of the burst mosfets are computerized...which means that the gun will continue to dry fire one or two more rounds after the first one is shot cause its the nature of the mosfet. This may not be true for all mosfets though...more thinking required. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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