danielsilva Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 What about the accuracy of the open bolt system ? With the correct weight and brand of BB's my M14 is showing to be a great performer even with the stock parts, since it appears that all open chamber versions share the same hop-up how does your open bolt PDW holds up in that department ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 I`ve only skirmished it with .28`s and accuracy is very good, will be trying .25`s next as Im running low on .28`s. Easily competes with my Type 97B AEG for accuracy but not range obviously due to the heavier BB. Cant give any solid figures though, just my opinion from using it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 23, 2010 Report Share Posted August 23, 2010 I`ve only skirmished it with .28`s and accuracy is very good, will be trying .25`s next as Im running low on .28`s. Easily competes with my Type 97B AEG for accuracy but not range obviously due to the heavier BB. Cant give any solid figures though, just my opinion from using it. Yeah, for some reason the M14 doesn't like anything below .28g or at least doesn't like the .20g from Madbull that i tried to use. Can you get torso hit from ... say 50m/165ft ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 Possibly, I couldn't be sure. 100ft~ torso hit is quite easy to do. Beyond that I cant be sure, didnt have many long range engagements on my last skirmish. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted August 24, 2010 Report Share Posted August 24, 2010 I installed my NPAS today and the bolt was sticking badly; I switched the RA-tech o ring for the thinner stock one but I can still feel resistance when I pull back the charging handle about halfway. I'm guessing the extra lip on the nozzle is the culprit: So should I be OK if I reshape the RA-tech nozzle (top) to look like the WE one? Also, I've heard that you can cut a couple of MM off the RA-tech threaded rod to get a better adjustment range; anyone else tried this? Finally, the PDW nozzle assembly just has a small washer on the rod and the RA-tech version has a plastic spacer similar to the M4. Is the spacer needed or should I just use a washer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 What kind of lube have you tried? Silicone spray doesn't help much in my SCAR (I have this problem). Silicone grease works better for me. Ben. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 What kind of lube have you tried? Silicone spray doesn't help much in my SCAR (I have this problem). Silicone grease works better for me. Ben. I use Slip2000 EWL, but this isn't a lube issue. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 That resistance is normal with that nozzle ( with the extra "lip" as you said ). So unless you mod part #117 and/or shave that lip you'll always have it. I've been doing this for ages but you can see it here http://gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=3911 throughly explained. You can shave a but of the threads on the guiding rod to give you some extra fps, not much though. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jotohomomoto Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Finally got around to cleaning it again after the last skirmish. F*** me the barrel gets dirty, needed 5 cleaning's with the rod till it was clear. The upper receiver gets gunked up quite well but still works fine (thank you slip2000!), even better after a clean and re-lube. Few of bad points I noticed however. The hammer seems to provide a lot of friction against the bolt, slowing it down about mid way through its travel. (Freshly lubed mind). Dont think it impairs the overall function of the PDW, might just need further breaking in. A part of the trigger mech scrapes against the bolt and nozzle, taking a small chunk out of the nozzle which could impair gas efficiency a small amount. Might need to trim it or bend it back slightly. My temporary fix for the bolt catch fell off, it was simply 2 bits of business card stuck to the underside of the catch where it gets pushed up by the mag latch. Worked fine for when it was there though, more perm fix is to bend the catch itself it would seem, will give it a go sometime. All the additional PDW mags (5 in total) I purchased came with no leaks (yay!). The included M4 mag had a minor leak, now fixed. The included PDW mag has major leaks out of the main seal and valve, also chucks out BB`s in the receiver. Needs a new valve, feed lips and the leak fixed. So far though, so good. PDW Open bolt deserves to be more popular IMHO. Uploaded with ImageShack.us is your bolt starting to look like this? I didn't realize my hammer was missing the "roller" to prevent this damage and a lot of the headache of this gun!!! Uploaded with ImageShack.us Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Not that bad: Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Not that bad: http://a.imageshack.us/img685/738/dsc01120n.th.jpg http://a.imageshack.us/img830/4900/dsc01119h.th.jpg http://a.imageshack.us/img715/4386/dsc01118n.th.jpg http://a.imageshack.us/img834/3691/dsc01117q.th.jpg Using a GBBR is like having sex with a girl ... always lubricate before use! Joking aside, Reppyboyo is you open bolt a converted PDW or it's a factory open bolt ( already open bolt from factory ) ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 That resistance is normal with that nozzle ( with the extra "lip" as you said ). So unless you mod part #117 and/or shave that lip you'll always have it. I've been doing this for ages but you can see it here http://gasguns.info/forum/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=3911 throughly explained. Thanks, I have done that mod to my M4 just to try it out but it wasn't sticking anywhere near as badly as the PDW. I shaved the front lip off the NPAS nozzle with a Dremel last night then put it in a drill and polished it smooth; no more resistance. I'm still not sure if I should use the plastic spacer on the guide rod though. I didn't realize my hammer was missing the "roller" to prevent this damage and a lot of the headache of this gun!!! The roller pin was LOOSE on my PDW; I was lucky enough to catch it early and put a drop of superglue on either side. I installed a Stinger while I had the gun apart; how important is that metal ring held in place by a set screw near the hop adjustment knob? It needs a little grinding to clear the slightly thicker Stinger knob but I just left it off for now. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Using a GBBR is like having sex with a girl ... always lubricate before use! Joking aside, Reppyboyo is you open bolt a converted PDW or it's a factory open bolt ( already open bolt from factory ) ? My PDW has always been lubed before use, still ended up that way. No matter, does not seem to affect much if any. Factory open bolt. Used the 'closed' bolt in the Scar I used to own which was a nightmare, never again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 My PDW has always been lubed before use, still ended up that way. No matter, does not seem to affect much if any. Factory open bolt. Used the 'closed' bolt in the Scar I used to own which was a nightmare, never again. Yeah i lost faith in the closed bolt hop up long ago, fortunately i have AEG hop-ups on my WE's. I asked that because since on my M14 they filled down everything that could possibly rub against each other and cause premature wear. I was wondering if they did this to every gun now but it seems a M14-only thing ... too bad cause i think that was a great way to improve the reliability of their products kojak could you take a picture or show that ring are you talking about ? I don't really know how the closed bolt PDW functions ... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 kojak could you take a picture or show that ring are you talking about ? I don't really know how the closed bolt PDW functions ... It looks like it's missing from the diagram--it's a ring that fits flush into a recess on the back of part #22. I don't think it supports the chamber or gets smacked by the bolt carrier but I'll take a closer look when I get home. Another note on part #117: if you have a loose guide rod it's really easy to test how the nozzle fits into the chamber before you put the gun together. I'm thinking it needs to be snug for a good seal but should pull out smoothly without the "pop" you feel from the lip on the nozzle catching on the ribs inside part #117. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 My PDW is back in the shop, even with silicon lube and grease the bolt sticks back in the upper upon recoil or cocking and sometimes the nozzle likes to chop hard into the BB and instead of firing a BB it will just sit in the nozzle. Overall not happy with my WE RA-Tech Closed Bolt PDW so far I have yet to load a full magazine and fire it to lock back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 (edited) My PDW is back in the shop, even with silicon lube and grease the bolt sticks back in the upper upon recoil or cocking and sometimes the nozzle likes to chop hard into the BB and instead of firing a BB it will just sit in the nozzle. Overall not happy with my WE RA-Tech Closed Bolt PDW so far I have yet to load a full magazine and fire it to lock back. Yeah that's what happens when you have guys from ra-tech installing their own products ... hard to believe but i've seen way too many screw ups from them and their installations Edited August 25, 2010 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Yeah the shop is attempting to get into contact with RA-TECH, I think the problem is a mixture of failures, the bolt is too tight in the upper, the NPAS is too tight in the brass tube, and the FCG puts too much pressure upwards on the bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted August 25, 2010 Report Share Posted August 25, 2010 Humm interesting ... http://www.everything-airsoft.com/blog/2010/08/24/wetti-to-collaborate-with-knights-armament-company/ Can i haz my WE LAC PDW with teh nice markings nao ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jotohomomoto Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 My PDW is back in the shop, even with silicon lube and grease the bolt sticks back in the upper upon recoil or cocking and sometimes the nozzle likes to chop hard into the BB and instead of firing a BB it will just sit in the nozzle. Overall not happy with my WE RA-Tech Closed Bolt PDW so far I have yet to load a full magazine and fire it to lock back. I NEVER got a complete mag to cycle through my gun either. The bolt would lock back every other shot. I come to find out the hammer roller fell out and I ended up shredding the hammmer and bolt. Keep in mind this happened right out of the F-ING box!!! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 Disappointment! With RA-Tech parts The NPAS adjuster 'screw' (?) had threaded, rendering it useless. The main body of the NPAS is fine however, tested that with another screw I had handy. Shame, gonna moan at RA-tech to see if I can get a replacement. Otherwise, anyone with an open bolt know another way to reduce the fps? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Megalomaniac Posted September 4, 2010 Report Share Posted September 4, 2010 The plot thickens, according to RA-Tech the bolt jamming issuse is due to an over sized NPAS O-ring. I still have to say that this gun should be taken off anyones buy list right now, and should not be considered until proof of operation can be given. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 just got the open bolt for about a week now. im running it on my own mix of gas, pretty similar to winter gas i guess. since its a little in between the power of 134 and gg. i already replaced the hop rubber with a TM rubber from my meu pistol. its not broken or anything but since they are identical might as well use the TM rubber. on my gas it shoots around 310 at .2 and on gg around 400ish. its a little low compared to previous WE models or on closed bolt. other than a slightly low fps this rifle work great! hop is very controllable and it shoots straight even on .2 bbs. very consistent in terms of fps too i say plus minus 5 fps on 30 rounds. the only problem i encountered is the magazine rubber lip is slightly torn maybe cause of friction from the loading nozzle. other than that this rifle is working flawlessly! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ahadsz Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 wait is it the non-open bolt that is having problems or the non-open bolt, and what would you say the max range of this would be in ft? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted September 5, 2010 Report Share Posted September 5, 2010 wait is it the non-open bolt that is having problems or the non-open bolt, and what would you say the max range of this would be in ft? CLosed Bolt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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