danielsilva Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 Those are guiding rails, they keep the nozzle straight and they go into the carrier. Don't have the g39 exploded diagram with so can't exactly tell you what part numbers they are. One thing I can tell you though, refrain from using/buying TSC parts if you don't want to waste money and beak your gun .... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 found them on airsoft buddy so you think its cheaper to buy a whole new mag for the sake of the plastic casing well lets look its $12 (£7) for the plastic casing minus the bottom clip on part. plus postage or $37 (£22) for a new magazine plus postage have you seen Airsoft buddy's ridiculous shipping postage? I got quoted $170CDN once for shipping Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 13, 2011 Report Share Posted June 13, 2011 have you seen Airsoft buddy's ridiculous shipping postage? I got quoted $170CDN once for shipping In the order comments ask to change the shipping method from the expensive EMS service to the cheap registered airmail. Fixed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redneck123 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Hey, i need your help... just bought a new H-Hop Up bucking from element. But i cant get it into the unit without pressing it in with brute force. And finally, after i got it in, the hop up isnt adjustable at all. Any ideas? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
gijohn2 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 @Redneck , File down each side untill it fits into the hop up unit , Make sure not to damage the profile of the nub other wise it will be wasted Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Shabby Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Just put in my order for the G39E from Evike last night. I'm very excited. Now, over the past few days I've been going through all 47 pages of this thread and I just have a few questions: Seeing as this is my first G36, and everyone agrees that you should strip it and clean it, do you guys know of any videos off hand showing what exactly to clean? Or does it just break down like a G36 AEG and I just clean anywhere I see WE lube? I found someone's guide to a Teflon mod already in here (Thank you Kruck) Aside from the wobbling inner barrel, this cocking while in full auto (Shouldn't be an issue for me as I'm only going to be using semi), the lube issue, tightening all of the screws, and the teflon mod. I'm new to GBBRs except for my KWA KMP9 (Amazing SMG if you're in the market for one) so I have basic maintenance down but nothing else. Am I missing anything?That's all I have on my list next to me here. Again thank you all for being very helpful. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redneck123 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) @gijohn Thank you for your quick answer. The length is not the problem, i talked about the hight. It fits perfectly into the hole, but when you want to put the hop-up bucking arm into place and place the adjuster (part #24) above it it wont fit into part #27. Regards Edited June 14, 2011 by Redneck123 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Just put in my order for the G39E from Evike last night. I'm very excited. Now, over the past few days I've been going through all 47 pages of this thread and I just have a few questions: Seeing as this is my first G36, and everyone agrees that you should strip it and clean it, do you guys know of any videos off hand showing what exactly to clean? Or does it just break down like a G36 AEG and I just clean anywhere I see WE lube? I found someone's guide to a Teflon mod already in here (Thank you Kruck) Aside from the wobbling inner barrel, this cocking while in full auto (Shouldn't be an issue for me as I'm only going to be using semi), the lube issue, tightening all of the screws, and the teflon mod. I'm new to GBBRs except for my KWA KMP9 (Amazing SMG if you're in the market for one) so I have basic maintenance down but nothing else. Am I missing anything?That's all I have on my list next to me here. Again thank you all for being very helpful. No problem By the by, if anyone wants to copy that guide over to any other forums, feel free Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Cheers for the parts list guys. Does anyone know why I have this problem? The range, consistancy and FPS have all dropped by miles since the trigger componants started failing (since replaced with RATech CNC'd) currently it has the same stats as my PX4. I really want my G36 to work! I love this rifle so much and I really want it restored to its former glory. Ive also emailed RATech asking when they will be realeasing specific G39 Trigger internals. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Tried changing your rubber? Checked your nozzle isnt damaged/worn? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Seraphim989 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Seeing as this is my first G36, and everyone agrees that you should strip it and clean it, do you guys know of any videos off hand showing what exactly to clean? Or does it just break down like a G36 AEG and I just clean anywhere I see WE lube? No, it breaks down completely differently. I was actually dumbfounded for a while as I took it apart, since I couldn't find a guide. It's all very straightforward until you get down to trying to take off the outer barrel and access the innards, you have to unscrew the big nut thats around the outer barrel. It's on there pretty tough, so just pull at it, harder than you think you have to. I'm not sure if that's what your question was though Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 (edited) Tried changing your rubber? Checked your nozzle isnt damaged/worn? Just stripped the whole thing down and re-built it. Nozzle is fine, no ware same with the hop. However one thing I did notice was that when the bolt locks back after an empty mag the nozzle sits in the middle doesnt allways return the the bolt. It also seems as though the gas is not flowing through correctly, also sounds different when firing has a kind of 'hiss'. Really pissing me off now, is there anywhere or anyone who is an expert on these? Thanks. Edited June 14, 2011 by bankz5152 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 That usually means the inside of the bolt and the guide rails need cleaning and lubing. My nozzle doesn't always return completely into the bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 I did clean and lube it Im considering just buying a new one! 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 If you push it yourself does it go smoothly inside ? If you pull the nozzle out with your fingers and let go, does it spring back and fully return into the bolt ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ryangolfvr6 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 if the guide rails are worn on the nozzel might be the problem check them out and make sure there sitting right .if there worn can buy replacement ones from airsoft buddy. also might be worth while checking the length of the spring from the bgc to the nozzle if its stretched/not as strong as it once was might be the cause of the nozzle not going back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Checked all those bits. No ware - nozzles fine, it does return if I pull it though a little 'jaged' its not totally smoothing. Guides seem fine aswell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spencerman Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Ok, @ Shabby, how dare you mention the superb gbb MP9 on a thread about the H&K G36, now you are going to annoy all of the G36 fanboys reading. (only kidding by the way ) You are very wrong about the dissasembly being like and aeg, it is closer to the real gun, part of the beauty about it. Be careful when tightening things, I just snapped a gas valve off on one of my mags (now I have no idea how to get the thing out!). Dont overtighten as it is still only made from poor quality metal (probably more of a legal point than a manufacturing one). It is very easy to do a basic strip down, just as the MP9, and basic maintenance will hopefull be all that you will need, but as you become more familiar you will no doubt strip it down further, just dont be too scared, the basic strip down is very very easy and can be found almost anywhere on youtube. One screw that you must not overtighten is the one at the front of the trigger group (near the mag well) which holds the arm that moves up and down to give you bolt lock. If you tighten this too much then it will hold the piece too tight and stop it from moving freely, simply tighten it until it is tight enough not to offer retension on the part. @ Redneck. I have had a couple of problems with my hop up this last week, I found that the black nub was slightly smaller than the white one (width wise), and that allowed it to move off centre slightly, which prevented my hop from working hardly at all. I replaced it with the white one and put a mag through it without issue, so now I need to test at a game. Did you replace your rubber as well, or just the nub? Also, did you open up the hop unit to swap it, or simply lift up the arm, drop out the original, and drop the replacement one back in? It sounds to me like the rubber/barrel has shifted out of the correct place, meaning that the cut away for the nub to push into at the top is not in the correct place, preventing the nub from being able to move properly. I would open the unit up and make sure that everything is lined up where it should be, which is not as difficult as it sounds, it is pretty obvious as I found out the first time I did it. Whilst you are doing it, you may as well wrap a bit of teflon tape (ptfe tape) around the seal between the rubber and barrel, it will improve the consistancy. You will find a fantastic guide all about the hop unit etc. on page 29 of this thread. @Bankz5152. I have so many guns where I have done just that, popped it to one side and just got a new one. I know how you feel. I also still need to sort out with you about getting those kydex holsters, I have not forgotten, just been really busy, I shall have to pm you again very soon about them. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 You should be able to get the broken bit of fill valve out with a pair of nail scissors, if you jam the slightly separated blades in you should be able to unscrew it quite easily (hard to describe, I'll take a pic if you need). Replacements are about £2 shipped from RSOV, you're after the 7mm hornbill fill valve - probably worth getting one for each of your mags as the WE fill valves are utter ######. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spencerman Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Thanks for that Kruck, I understand exactly what you mean, wedge it in and churn the *fruitcage* out, basically! I may well have to invest in those valves. How is the performance of them, do they seal better? I have found a few of my fill valves have leaked slightly, although not anything that a bit of maintenance gas hasnt fixed apart from the one that I tried to tighten, and boy did that turn extremely well, right off! I did recently take them all out and silicone them just to be on the safe side. Oh well. Still a damn fine gun, even despite the few little niggly problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 They're bombproof. I've had about a dozen of them over the years in various guns (both 5mm and 7mm), not had a single problem with them and you can tighten them as much as you like, they won't snap . Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted June 14, 2011 Report Share Posted June 14, 2011 Checked all those bits. No ware - nozzles fine, it does return if I pull it though a little 'jaged' its not totally smoothing. Guides seem fine aswell. I recently fixed a SCAR where the pin that holds the two halves of the nozzle was trying to wiggle out and was scraping the sides of the carrier ( it ended with a destroyed nozzle ) and was jamming the nozzle and was showing similar symptoms like the one you're describing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 bankz just a thought, did you disassemble the nozzle and check your floating valve and spring inside of it ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Redneck123 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 @spencerman thank you for your tip! I use the RA-Tech hop-up rubber, and it is correctly installed. I just cant help myself getting the white H-bucking into part #27.... Could anybody post some pics how he managed to install it? Best ragards! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted June 15, 2011 Report Share Posted June 15, 2011 bankz just a thought, did you disassemble the nozzle and check your floating valve and spring inside of it ? Yes also appears fine with zereo ware in fact looks brand new! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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