Mike 8-{> Posted March 12, 2016 Report Share Posted March 12, 2016 Following Rob15's suggestion in the Misc Custom Machined Parts thread that there ought to be a separate 3D Printing thread here ya go..... 3D printing some parts? want to know how to? Where to? Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 Loooong time ago, when 3D printers were not that popular, I managed to 3D print a bolt and valve knocker for one of my Tanaka M870 that was missing. The pictures of the thread are now gone (imageshack...) but I will look for it and post a picture. Finally I didn't used it because I got to make an aluminium one in a drill press. Now that I have my second CNC milling machine, much bigger and precise, I should make an steel one! Probably I will make an adapter to 3D print in the milling machine also. Link to post Share on other sites
sir naggedalot Posted March 17, 2016 Report Share Posted March 17, 2016 I remember when I started a 3d printer thread on here ages ago and all I mostly got was posts stating it was never going to catch on! I've been looking into getting one but need to sort my spare room out first so its got somewhere to go Some great DIY SLA printer designs out there now¬ Between me and my nipper I must have 100+ parts to test it out on but first thing will be a folding periscope :0) Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Here they are, bolt, cartridge follower and valve knocker/firing pin: Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 I have a few .ipt's I want made. Unfortunately my student licence for the software has run out and I have no access to the hardware(a 3d printer) either. If I had access to the software and hardware I'd be making things for people myself, hell, I'd make a job of it. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 8-{> Posted March 20, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 Unfortunately my student licence for the software has run out and I have no access to the hardware(a 3d printer) either........ Have look at https://www.onshape.com/ It is free for private use. Fully featured CAD. Can import/export all sorts. Is by the team of software engineers who wrote Solidedge I believe. Is cloud based so you don't need a super computer or monster graphics to run it. Is pretty good. Can export STL files. The Hackspace I am involved with used it to design parts of the 3d printed robot we entered in to the Raspberry Pi Pi-Wars competition last year. You can also collaborate with others on designs / projects / assemblies with it. Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 That's halfway there, thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted March 20, 2016 Report Share Posted March 20, 2016 If you need a great CAD software, Autodesk gives now for free, for amateurs and small business, Fusion 360. Link to post Share on other sites
sir naggedalot Posted March 21, 2016 Report Share Posted March 21, 2016 What 3d printer you using DEVILHUNTER or is it just an extruder on your CNC Router? Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 I just had a chap 3D print me a new hop chamber for my mates KWA LM4. Designed to take AEG rubbers & barrels adjusted via a grub screw. Preliminary results a bloomin impressive to say the least! Laser accurate up to around 180ft with a tiny grouping. (.28gs, 247mm PDI 6.01, Guarder Black). That was with it half put back together, should have a longer barrel soon enough, got to mod the upper so it can be adjusted on the fly but Its good! Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted March 22, 2016 Report Share Posted March 22, 2016 I had a kind soul (AKA Csokáv) make me a prototype STANAG to AUG mag adapter as seen here. It might look grey in the pics, but it's actually black. I'm waiting for a few M4 style mags to arrive for testing.I have a few ideas for improvements already, and luckily one of my good friends just informed me he has acquired a 3D printer, so hopefully we will be able to create an improved version 2.0 design in a few weeks.Watch this space... Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted March 23, 2016 Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Sorry for the double post, but too late to edit. Got a couple of pics of the first mags that arrived: The short mag seems a lot better, as the adapter itself takes up a lot of space - pushing the mag much further down than the normal AUG mag. Sadly, the first prototype doesn't actually fit into the AUG magwell properly, I need to figure out how to sort that. Also, the M4 mags are an extremely tight fit in the adapter, so tight in fact, that it's putting too much strain on the adapter trying to get the mags out. Further improvements will be made... Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 8-{> Posted March 23, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2016 Tolerancing on 3D printing is a bit of an art. Things, in my experience to date, tend to come out a bit over size. So holes will be smaller than modelled and outer dims larger. You need to check the as printed part dims against the cad and tweak the model. Usually giving slightly slacker fits / tolerances than you would for metal parts. Also bear in mind results will differ between printers. Get it right on one and you may need to re-tweak for another. I found Clifford Smyth's "Functional Design for 3D Printing" a useful book. It can be bought from Amazon. Link to post Share on other sites
DEVILHUNTER Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 What 3d printer you using DEVILHUNTER or is it just an extruder on your CNC Router? It was like 5 years ago so I don't remember, but was one of the cheap ones you can build yourself under 500 bucks. I know a guy with this type of machine and he gets great parts since he has a lot of experience with it. Anyways my CNC is not a router, it's an actual 250kg milling machine Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 A company called Olo had a $99 box that turns a smartphone (iOS, Android or Window Phone) into a 3D printer. http://www.digitaltrends.com/cool-tech/olo-3d-printer-smartphone/?utm_content=bufferf394b&utm_medium=socialm&utm_source=facebook.com&utm_campaign=DT-FB Being able to print out a spare part whilst still at site? Would be useful when the tech is improved. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 8-{> Posted March 24, 2016 Author Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 I believe the filament material for the olo is very expensive compared to normal printers. I picked up a sold-as-seen but easily repairable customer return Wanhao Dulplicator i3 from a guy on ebay for less than 200 quid. He sells them new too and any customer returns he sells very cheap as it is uneconomical to repair them. Link to post Share on other sites
paranoiddroid Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 I want one and a laser cutter eventually there's LOADS I want to do. I have loads of plans and cad files but no skill or money to buy the equipment. Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 I want one and a laser cutter eventually there's LOADS I want to do. I have loads of plans and cad files but no skill or money to buy the equipment.Welcome to my world. Link to post Share on other sites
Murdoc Posted March 24, 2016 Report Share Posted March 24, 2016 Further improvements will be made... You simply have to sand it outside and it will fit... If M4 mags too tight you can remove the small surface failures inside with heated piece of steel plate. Link to post Share on other sites
swatti Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 QUESTION where to get "larger" stuff printed? Prices vary here a lot. 60 euros for a custom tappet plate, no thx. Link to post Share on other sites
ED-SKaR Posted April 1, 2016 Report Share Posted April 1, 2016 QUESTION where to get "larger" stuff printed? Prices vary here a lot. 60 euros for a custom tappet plate, no thx. First option is to split the part into multiple components then fix/glue them together, then find a company that uses a larger printer. But a tappet plate should fit in even a very small 3d printer. Link to post Share on other sites
paranoiddroid Posted April 2, 2016 Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 I'm going to have to try and get the makers pace here to actually answer their emails I need the workshop and tools access Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 8-{> Posted April 2, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 2, 2016 I'm going to have to try and get the makers pace here to actually answer their emails I need the workshop and tools access Don't know if you have seen it. Apologies if you have. Sent you a pm about laser cutting.... Link to post Share on other sites
Mike 8-{> Posted April 8, 2016 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2016 For those who might be interested here's a small desktop laser cutter which is currently in development. http://www.justaddsharks.co.uk/blogs/2016-04-07/what-s-in-the-box Link to post Share on other sites
Katotaka Posted April 29, 2016 Report Share Posted April 29, 2016 This is also on Shotgun pic thread, but hey it's related so why not?A friend of mine is thinking of a way to prevent / reduce chance of slam-fire when using PPS metal shells, or ND if shells are dropped,He gave me one 3d printed part of his design and I decided to make some more for my own further testing.Since the copy from him is a SLS'd part so measuring dimensions from its "grainly" surface is not ideal.I took the original metal part off from my shells, measured, modified and created my own version. I need like twenty-something of those parts so I "linked" them together to save printing cost, if printed individually it takes ONLY 3 pieces to reach the same price of the "sheet" above. And yeah, the sprue looks ugly."Improved" sprue AFTER I ordered the sheets above, maybe next time... I still need to confirm the size tolerance of the service provider when I receive my order, adjust model to fit, so I will definitely print again. Awaiting my order to come................ in mid-MayThe goal of the design is to use some non-CO2 power source, which originally tend to slam-fire / ND, on the purple metal shells, without the danger and the risk getting DQ'd in matches.CO2 powered shells are AWESOME to shoot but not as nice to maintain, shells would break and o-rings swell A LOT.These will be SLS printed nylon, my friend tested his version like 100 times with some stronger gases like big fat gas from Guarder, WE 4X and "Red" gas and survived, while apparently stopped slam-fire when operated "violently". CO2 will snap these stuff but there's no point using these with CO2 at the first place........ you just can't slam-fire a CO2 filled shell. My earlier design, Tanaka/PPS valve knocker-ish piece, SLS printed steel, inside the gun right now so no pics Link to post Share on other sites
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