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CA SLR-105A1 Review


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Classic Army Arsenal SLR-105A1 (Bulgarian Ak-74 copy) Review by Screwschom

 

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The CA SLR-105A1 is basically a TM AK-47 clone with a metal body and black polymer stock set and a ak-74 magazine though it will take any aftermarket AK type or TM AK mags. (Interesting note: CA ’74 magazines do not fit in TM AK-47 body) Inspecting the body of the gun I found no evidence of body flex which is prevalent on the TM.

 

The front sight also showed no sign’s of wobble which was a worry after dealing with the TM AK. The fit and finish of the CA slr-105a1 if pretty clean and yes there are mold marks on the stock and fore grip but there are mold marks on real steel polymer stocks as well so it is nothing to get up in arms about. The Butt stock will hold a 9.6v large battery with some cramming of wires; skill in the art of origami a plus.

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The “front block” section also known as the front trunion or sight block (not to be confused with the gas tube) is plastic, but seems to have excellent structural integrity. From the outside appearance, I think that the receiver dimensionally is a 1:1 copy of a TM, and that an after market front block made of metal could be installed.

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The gun also has a bayonet lug, something that was left off on the TM AK, and a real steel AK-74 bayonet will fit. The stock attachment system is the same as TM, with the two tang rear trunnion, this is a good thing as you can if need be install aftermarket stocks designed for the TM.

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The receiver itself is die case, as with most of the other metal parts. The receiver cover is made of a stamped metal, possibly steel. The flash hider is also made of steel, it come with not-so-easy to take off orange paint on the front part of the muzzle. The finish on the muzzle break is a glossy black, while the rest of the gun is a nice matte black.

 

As with the TM AK, the 1:1 copy hop up unit that works FLAWLESSLY and is very effective, 5 times better than the CA M15 series hop up. With the V3 gearbox and the ability to house a 9.6v large battery allows for some great potential in terms of upgrading. The included magazine is a 500rd Hicap.

 

Field testing: With the 9.6v battery the ROF is very good. I shot about one magazine worth of bb’s, set the hop up and set the gun aside until the next day to use it out in a game.

Working in a small squad of 3 men I spot sniper, the stock AK has good range for a un upgraded gun and I am easily able to provide cover fire for my teammate to advance and flank the sniper. After about 50 bb’s shot is short bursts, the sniper decided to run for it, with the gun already on full auto I squeeze the trigger and start to track the sniper. Then out of no where, the piston must have broken because there were no warning stripping sounds, and I know its not a gear because the gun will still move the nozzle and cycle bb’s through the chamber. Needless to say, a teammate in my squad got the sniper and I ran back to the staging area to grab my other gun.

 

Undoubtedly the reason for the piston breaking/stripping was because I used the 9.6v large battery with the stock spring. I am going to install a new piston and M120 spring in my gun and it should work just fine after that. Check back to this thread for updates on the repair of the SLR.

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Thanks for the encouragement.

 

I know how CA pistons can be wierd these days, my CA saw is still on its stock piston with over 60K rounds; but thats also because I didnt over jack my hop up. I have faith in the SLR, it was just a little disheatening to have it break so soon. It reminded me of a buddied gen. 1 G&G M14 whose piston stripped every half a hicap and no matter what we did in terms of springs and gears and pistons we couldnt stop it from stripping. But that was a whole other boat in terms of gearbox design.

 

When the SLR shot, it was a dream to shoot. Seemed to have very good grouping for a non TB gun.

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Can you highlight where in your opinion this occurs on the TM AK?

 

Its a combination of the flex between the stock, the actual receiver, and the plastic front block. The flex is just there because the plastic is obviously not as rigid the metal CA uses.

 

When holding a CA SLR, then picking up a TM AK, the contrast in ridity is obvious. Im not saying that the TM AK wobbles like the stock 3 peice M4 barrel or the creakyness of a all plastic SG1. Its just there and worth mentioning that CA does it better. My comparisons are based on a all orgional TM AK, a TM ak with CA receiver and G&P front block. The CA is just a rigid and solid as the CA/G&P AK even with the plastic front block.

 

Anyways, I took the gun apart , piston was chewed up in the back 3 teeth. I stuck in a new piston a different spring with resulted in a lower ROF, but not my much. Gun hasnt had a problem for about 300 shots, but I will put it through a bunch of testing tommorow provided I have the time.

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Understand, just wanted to see your opinion. Metal AK receivers are very robust. The silly little piece that the stock screws to has always wobbled.

 

I think the flex in the TM AKs are negligible and the front sight falling off is more what you have to worry about
LOL, I agre on both points, not that I've ever had the sight fall off. That is what loctite is for. ;) Edited by AustinWolv
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Its a combination of the flex between the stock, the actual receiver, and the plastic front block.  The flex is just there because the plastic is obviously not as rigid the metal CA uses.

 

When holding a CA SLR, then picking up a TM AK, the contrast in ridity is obvious.  Im not saying that the TM AK wobbles like the stock 3 peice M4 barrel or the creakyness of a all plastic SG1. Its just there and worth mentioning that CA does it better.  My comparisons are based on a all orgional TM AK, a TM ak with CA receiver and G&P front block. The CA is just a rigid and solid as the CA/G&P AK even with the plastic front block.

 

Anyways, I took the gun apart , piston was chewed up in the back 3 teeth. I stuck in a new piston a different spring with resulted in a lower ROF, but not my much.  Gun hasnt had a problem for about 300 shots, but I will put it through a bunch of testing tommorow provided I have the time.

 

Just wait until the CA G3SG1 comes out.

 

You'll wet yourself in joy.

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My stock SLR using an 8.4v has had ~4,000rnds through it in the last coupla' games with no probs. Just did the standard spring upgrade to it for the fps limit of the Ft. Ord site here in California, and will let you guys know how it runs after next weekend. Hopefully my Hero Arms RPK drum will arrive in time ;) If not, I've got 6 hi-caps that'll keep me in the fight.

 

Jesse

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I originally had a problem with removing the flash hider. . .and it's not just me. .it's also the techs at Airsoft Extreme that could not remove the flash hider no matter what they tried.

 

after vising the barrel down and with a 1/2 x 24" steel rod placed inside the flash hider. . heated the flash hider up with a blowtorch. .and then torx off the flash hider. . .

 

there are TWO threads for the SLR105 flash hider. . the flash hider itself, I believe is threaded the real steel std of 22 or 24mmx 1mm CW. .

 

the second thread is brass adapter that goes from 22mm (or 24mm) to 14mmx1mm CCW. The SLR105 outer barrel is threaded 14mmx1mm CCW.

 

Either Classic Army or Spartan Imports lock-tited or glued the flash hider with some pretty permanent stuff. . white hard gunk on the threads after removing it. . .

 

all I can say is my flash hider "bird cage" is jacked up from having to torx it off. . I've never ever spent so much time removing a flash hider from an airsoft than I did with the CA SLR105.

 

no idea why CA glued the flash hider on. . maybe so the orange painted flash hider could not be removed from US Customs/Homeland Security. .

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