Traha Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 I Randomly found a site that have the rubber for PSS10 hop unit in stock. I am back to using my orignal hup up unit but for those interested here is Laylax NEO air seal chamber packing. I have ordered from Airsoft Unlimited once before and all I can say is that they got awesome support though email, and yes they do ship outside of USA. Link to post Share on other sites
l96ninja Posted June 28, 2011 Report Share Posted June 28, 2011 Does anyone who has the Laylax chamber think that it's worth it? Is the air seal really that great? Link to post Share on other sites
Traha Posted June 29, 2011 Report Share Posted June 29, 2011 I just got the Laylax Cylinder head so when I used the Laylax Chamber I had the original cylinder head. In my case the air seal was not that great, the air leaked out in less then a half second when dryfireing with my finger in front of the barrel, but with some dentalfloss around the cylinderhead I was able to keep the air in for around 3 second (with M130 spring). The Problem with the metal sleeve is that it only goes on one side of the bucking, unlike pitari (or something like that) and Noobie's Anti-Blowby Sleeve. I think the problem with getting the hop-up airtight is the nozzle/bucking combo. Here is an interesting video. Link to post Share on other sites
kaufmau Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 This may have been asked already but I do apologise I'm on a iPhone and can't read the entire thread, what would need doing to make a vsr shoot 330 fps? My new sites limits are 350 max and I've seen the tms on fire support for 170 quid and am very tempted Link to post Share on other sites
shmook Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 This may have been asked already but I do apologise I'm on a iPhone and can't read the entire thread You can... I'm doing exactly the same thing at the moment on my iPhone It just requires the patience of a sniper But I will answer this. I've just picked up a friends g spec with a 120 spring in, and it's between 320 and 330 fps, everything else is stock. I use it last weekend, and range tested it. It will hit a torso at a measured 55 metres with a .28g guarder hpm bb on max hop. Hope thy helps Link to post Share on other sites
kaufmau Posted August 2, 2011 Report Share Posted August 2, 2011 With fat figures its quite difficult, but thanks for the reply. More questions though! The only 120 spring i can find is http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylax-pss10-120-spring-for-tm-vsr10 Which says to give 380 fps, am i looking at the wrong things? Link to post Share on other sites
scar527 Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 Hey guys I wanted to report a finding that I have noticed. I was fiddling with my Bar-10 and VSR-10's hop arms, and realized the bar-10 has longer "arms" that apply the hop. With the current spring(500-550 fps) and TM hop arm, the VSR-10 on max hop cannot overhop a .36. With the bar-10 arm and the same spring, it only takes about 1/3-1/2 to achieve a flat trajectory. Hope you guys find this useful, Scar Link to post Share on other sites
noodels Posted August 11, 2011 Report Share Posted August 11, 2011 It's the same with the Well,I have them in both my guns & they will overhop 0.43's Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted August 12, 2011 Report Share Posted August 12, 2011 The only 120 spring i can find is http://www.fire-support.co.uk/product/laylax-pss10-120-spring-for-tm-vsr10 Which says to give 380 fps, am i looking at the wrong things? I just fitted one in a friends factory standard TM VSR10 pro sniper and I chronographed it at 365fps with 0.20g on an F1 chronograph. It was capable of hitting the 65 yard (lasered) A1 target with 0.28g HPM GUARDER. Hop was set on maximum. It's pretty quite. The piston still has the air brake. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Hey I'm having some feeding issues with my LayLax tuned VSR-10. For a change, it is not the usual double feeding problem caused by faulty installation of the black U-piece in the hop-up unit; this one is a little bit different: The VSR will feed perfectly well for a few shots before during one cocking cycle, the BB will actually drop backwards into the hollow chamber where the cylinder would normally sit. Obviously, then bringing the cylinder forward again will crush the pellet, spreading pieces of BB everywhere from the hop-up to the cylinder region, meaning a complete take-down and cleaning is then necessary to get it fixed again. As I said, it doesn't do that on every occasion. I can sometimes fire up to a magazine without error, but the issue does keep reappearing everytime I use the VSR. The rifle is outfitted with the following components: Tokyo Marui VSR-10 GSpec X-Fire/PDI Bull Barrel (Fluted, Large), Bull Barrel Base & Bull Barrel Cap X-Fire/PDI Barrel Spacers LayLax PSS10 Zero Trigger & Piston LayLax PSS10 Teflon Cylinder LayLax PSS10 Cylinder Head LayLax PSS10 Spring Guide LaxLax PSS10 SP170 Spring LayLax 6.03mm Precision Barrel (555mm) NineBall Air Seal Hop-Up Rubber The hop-up unit has also been modded the usual way with Loctite and wire to provide a good seal; the cylinder head has some teflon tape on it, though on the LayLax head I found that this makes no difference since it's already sealing well enough by itself. The rifle is firing a stable 560 FPS with the hop-up complete off, but is unusable in games as of now due to the feeding issue. Any help would be much appreciated. Thanks in advance, Hetzer Update: I just disassembles the whole rifle once again to test something: Just taking the barrel assembly (without the main receiver and cylinder) and drop a single BB in manually, it will roll out backwards into the space where the cylinder is supposed to move when I don't tilt the whole assembly forwards while loading. With the hop-up unit opened up, it is clear that even with the u-piece in the deepest position it can reach (pushing downwards in the direction of the magazine), a BB can freely roll through into the cylinder. Using the magazine to feed the BB into the hop-up unit outside the rifle, it seems the magazine will press into the hop-up unit far enough to block the BB from going backwards. Maybe the issue is down to the magazine not sitting in the well correctly? I will do some more testing on this. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 16, 2011 Report Share Posted August 16, 2011 Another update (Can't edit original post anymore): I just put the hop-up unit back into the outer barrel and screwed on the magazine guide that fixes the hop-up unit in the correct position). I then filled up a magazine with several BBs and pushed it along the guide into the hop-up unit, looking in from the backside where the cylinder would go. The first BB immediately shot out backwards in my face. Hm... Right now it looks like it doesn't happen with the magazine pressed up with as hard as possible, as the magazine tip will then prevent BBs from moving backward together with the u-piece (which fails to block enough room alone). Modding the magazine for a more centered, tighter fit is one thing, but how do I get them to stick upwards more? Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 And yet another update (This forum really gives you a very short time to edit your posts): After another night of digging the net for a solution I finally came across some advice on AirsoftForum.com: I read that drilling a small dent into the middle of the feeding regulator (U-piece) exactly where the BBs are pushed upwards should fix this problem. It also said there that drilling more than 1/2cm would cause double feeding, so, to be on the safe side, I only drilled a dent of around 1/4mm. I just reassembled the rifle 15 minutes ago and tested it out and not a single BB fed backwards into the cylinder chamber...instead, the VSR now double-feeds on every single occasion. Once more, I have ruined something in an attempt to repair it. Anyways, it looks like I'm going to need a new feeding U-piece now. Any ideas? Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 As far as I know, they aren't available anywhere. Try repairing it with car body filler or 2-part putty. The rear feeding is caused by the nozzle wearing down the rear edge of the feed regulator, it should have a slight "cup" shape to it to hold the BB. I have fixed this a couple of times by simply building it back up and filing it to shape. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Hey, thanks for your reply. I had the same idea after posting this morning and drove to a local car stuff shop. I bought some stuff called "liquid metal", which is essentially a liquid plastic made up of two components that have to be mixed and then applied. I'm guessing that's the car body filler you were referring to? I have little experience with that stuff, hence the awkward description. Right now I'm trying for the 3rd time to get that stuff to really connect with the plastic u-piece. Every time I get about trimming the dried out excess material and drilling/filing out the cup-shape, the liquid plastic goes to pieces again. Well, I'll keep on it and will try to get the hang of it. I'm kind of wondering how this stuff will cope with the nozzle rubbing on it though. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 the stuff i used is this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_categoryId_165625_productId_203243_langId_-1?cm_mmc=Shopping-_-Google%20Product%20Search-_-Car%20Care%20%26%20Maintenance%2FBody%20Repair%2FBody%20Filler-_-U-POL%20Extra%20Polyester%20Filler&source=shopping I'm not so familiar with the liquid plastic stuff, but this stuff is a paste and pretty good. I was lucky enough to have loads left over from a motorcycle restoration i did. It's also amazing for strengthening hollow plastic parts. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Aha, judging by the components that actually seems to be something different from what I was able to get. Well, I've thoroughly cleaned the plastic again and applied yet another layer. I'll leave it to dry now while I get some sleep and will check if it's hard enough to actually get the job done later. Otherwise I can still get the polyester filler. Thanks for the advice. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 No worries dude. Good luck! Link to post Share on other sites
Nuno@ME Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 No worries dude. Good luck! No worries dude. Good luck! scott ur rifle is silly heavy lol must weigh about 5 kilos with all that filler in the stock. noon Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Yeah, but its quiet and is a stable rifle to shoot. Besides, if you man up and go for it, after the first game you hardly notice the weight. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 17, 2011 Report Share Posted August 17, 2011 Yeah, I'm considering adding some weight at the rear portion of the stock as well, as it looks like I'll have to go to the shop for some polyester filler anyways. The fully dried liquid metal is not nearly tough enough to take the pressure from the nozzle. After finishing up my feeding regulator really nicely with an nice cup shape and a maximized patch of contact between the old and the new plastic, all the new stuff just came off after test-shoving the nozzle into the hop-up unit like 4 times. So, just for the record, in case anyone ever ends up having to repair similar internal plastic parts: Don't go for the liquid metal, go for the polyester filler scorch mentioned. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 the stuff i used is this: http://www.halfords.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_storeId_10001_catalogId_10151_categoryId_165625_productId_203243_langId_-1?cm_mmc=Shopping-_-Google%20Product%20Search-_-Car%20Care%20%26%20Maintenance%2FBody%20Repair%2FBody%20Filler-_-U-POL%20Extra%20Polyester%20Filler&source=shopping Right, I got the polyester filler today, applied it, let it dry out for 40 or so minutes and then filed it to shape. After putting the regulator inside the unit to test it I stuck in the nozzle one single time and the whole thing came apart. Did you apply any coating to the material? As it looks like now, both materials I tried are miles away from being able to survive the nozzle coming past. Link to post Share on other sites
scorch Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 No, i didn't put any coating on it at all. I have repaired GBB slides with this stuff too, its pretty solid. Have you made sure the part is clean and grease free before you start? That might stop it sticking to the part well. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 18, 2011 Report Share Posted August 18, 2011 Yeah, I've cleaned it really thoroughly, no idea why I can't keep it from tearing. An alternative would be to actually use this stuff and apply it to the top of the part, where the feather goes in and in turn cut off a bit of the original top "base plate". This way, I could get the whole piece to move 1mm further downwards (keeping half of the original base plate as a support for the filler). If this would fail I'd have completely ruined my u-piece though, so I'll try it once more with the stuff applied to the feeding groove. Link to post Share on other sites
Hetzer Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Right, over the last week I've been in contact with Redwolf Airsoft and they're going to special order some of those feeding regulators and make them available via the online shop. They told me I should check the shop in about two weeks from now, so if you need a new feeding regulator for your VSR or would just like to have a backup piece without having to buy the whole chamber, check the Redwolf Airsoft store in a couple of days. Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted August 26, 2011 Report Share Posted August 26, 2011 Nice work HETZER. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.