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Battery Care....


FUmiYAsu

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I don't know if this is the place to post this, but i've searched around and found nowhere better.

I've always used 9.6 V batteries, and now i don't have them anymore (sold them) so I only have 8.4s. The smart charger i have willl only charge 6, 7.2 or 9.6 V, not 8.4 for some reason. So I was wondering if it would work to use a trickle charger and plug it into a christmas tree timer so it would be like a smart charger in a way. Would this work? Or will I have to do something else?

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The smart charger i have willl only charge 6, 7.2 or 9.6  V, not 8.4 for some reason. So I was wondering if it would work to use a trickle charger and plug it into a christmas tree timer so it would be like a smart charger in a way. Would this work?

Yes, it would work.. but you would have to compute for the charging time and set the timer to the nearest number of hours and fraction thereof. Not really anything like a smart charger, but it will at least prevent overcharging the cells even if you accidentally forget to shut it down.

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Yes, it would work.. but you would have to compute for the charging time and set the timer to the nearest number of hours and fraction thereof.  Not really anything like a smart charger, but it will at least prevent overcharging the cells even if you accidentally forget to shut it down.

Okay. +1 for the help :D

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i have a 4-8 cells 4.0A charger and a sanyo charger and when I do the fast charge setting it goes to trickle within a few minutes for some reason but is not charged (of course) so my question is on trickle how long should i charge the battery?

Either something is triggering false peak detection (like bad cell(s), bad connectors, power source fluctuations, etc).. or (if the same thing occurs with any/all other battery packs) your charger's detection circuitry has gone bad.

 

Most chargers trickle at between 100-150mAh. Just the same, I would advise you try to find out your particular charger's specs on that account. Then simply compute the charging time using the formula

charging time = ( battery mAh / trickle rate mAh ) x 1.4Automatic functions are generally disabled when running in trickle mode.
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Not sure if this has been asked before, apologies if it has.

 

Is it safe to charge your battery if you're not planning on using it, say, for another 2 or 3 weeks? By doing this would I be damaging my batteries life atall?

 

In the long run maybe, theres not been enuff testing to see if this really damages newer NmHi batterys, NiCads on the other hand sould not be allowed to run down as it can cause the memory effect with them.

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In the long run maybe, theres not been enuff testing to see if this really damages newer NmHi batterys, NiCads on the other hand sould not be allowed to run down as it can cause the memory effect with them.

Actually.. if storing nickel-based batteries for a long time.. it's best to keep them discharged. The NiCd battery can be stored unattended for five years and longer. For best results, a NiCd should be fully charged, then discharged to zero volts. If this procedure is impractical, a discharge to 1V/cell is acceptable. A fully charged NiCd that is allowed to self-discharge during storage is subject to crystalline formation (memory).

 

from Chapter 15 - Batteries in a Portable World, a handbook on rechareable batteres for non-engineers, http://www.buchmann.ca You'd also get the same thing from http://www.batteryuniversity.com. The two are mirror sites of each other.

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I've just received a second charger (same brand: Duratrax Intellipeak Deluxe Digital Charger). Except this one didn't come with an adapter for Dean connectors. :(

 

Can anyone say what kind of wire I should get (like a specific name and thickness for the wire) to make an adapter? Better yet, does anyone know of a place where I can get custom adapters? All I basically need is a male Deans connector soldered to two wires, the ends of which can be bare as I'll just be sticking them straight into the charger itself. Hypothetically I could do the soldering myself, but considering I don't have a spare male Deans Connector and the wires needed, a premade one would be preferable.

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Edit:

 

Searching around I came across: cheapbatterypacks.com

 

They appear to have custom adapters that you can order to your specs. Anyone tried this? Trying to order one I figured I may need:

Male Deans > No Plug > 14AWG Wire

What do you think? Or would 12AWG Wire be better?

 

And while I'm asking I was thinking of rewiring one of my M4 AEGs to have the battery in the hand guard instead. So I'll probably need some extra wire. Which gauge wire would I use for that application? 12, 14 or 16 gauge wire?

 

Thanks a lot!

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Not sure if this comes under battery care but i have 2x 9.6v 1400mah Ak stick type batteries and after firing around 300 rds continuosly the batteries become very hot, along with the handgrip(obviously the motor inside) and the fuse. now im just curious if this is the normal affects or if something is wrong?

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yea, if you do it for an extended amount of time the battery will become hot

 

its due to the chemicl reaction in the battery, everytime you shoot, it releases a bit of heat as well as electrical energy. shoot quick enough for long enough and the heat will build up

 

best thing to do is just to let the gun cool down a bit when you notice it getting hot, or try to not shoot constantly for extended periods in time.

 

hope this helps!

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mate it helps loads thanks, also im just curious as to what High Drain means? does it mean it discharges itself quickly or the flow of juice is high drain?

If the term HIGH DRAIN is printed on the battery cell label.. then it means the cell(s) has the capability to discharge at high rate (or as may be demanded by the particular work load). rechargeable batteries are not made all the same - some charge fast and discharge likewise, some charge fast but discharge slow, some may slow charge but discharge fast, and so on... LOW DRAIN cells have high internal resistance, and trying to more current than they are designed for causes the output voltage to drop. When output voltage drops below a certain threshold, the cells will simply refuse to discharge further even if they may still be almost fully charged. Such cells are better suited for lower current applications such as radios and electronics. A stock AEG motor cranking a stock spring setup normally draws 6-8 times the discharge rate of a 1400mAh battery.

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by reading that am i to understand my batterys life wont last very long as it discharges very quickly? for example i charged my battery last friday shot about 600 rds at skirmishing(on saturday) with it and then another 300 yesterday and it ran out of juice yesterday.

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the battery life is governed by how much power the motor uses. the high drain means that it can supply more energy if its needed. if im not mistaken, most AEG batterys are high drain as AEG motors require a lot power all at once.

 

bottom line is, it doesnt affect your dischage time (compared with using a differnt battery of the same rating that is). 1000 rounds or more a charge sounds normal to me

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In the simplest terms.. a 1400mAh rating means the battery can sustain a current drain of 1.4A (1400mA) at optimum voltage level for 1 hour, after which the power runs out. If the workload draws only 0.7A (700mA) or equal to half the battery rating, then the battery will last 2 hours. If the load demands twice as much, meaning 2.8A, then the battery will only last 1/2 hour, or 30 minutes.

 

AEG motors draw between 10-11 amperes of current (7-8 times that of 1400mA).. even over 15A when the piston spring has been upgraded (ever wonder why stock AEGs normally have 15A fuses?). With current draw near the 15A threshold, the total runtime (if the AEG drivetrain was to run continuosly) for a 1400mAh battery is just over 5 minutes, under theoretically perfect conditions. Be aware that start-stop-start-stop motor operation consumes more power than continuous running. Factoring in battery condition, actual state of charge, wiring resistance, shooting habits, etc.. 50-60% of that runtime figure would be more realistic assumption.

 

So what's runtime got to do with anything? An AEG normally cycles at 800 shots per minute.. sometimes even as slow as 600 with a stiff spring. Multiply that by the runtime.. and you'll get an idea how may shots you can expect from your battery.

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