ramsy66 Posted May 14, 2007 Report Share Posted May 14, 2007 Just a quick battery question. I have a pre-upgraded ICS M4, but I don't know if I can use 9.6v batteries in it. So far I've only used 8.4v, but I want to know if 9.6v is safe. Here are the upgrades done to the rifle: Super Torque-Up Turbo 3000 Motor Fitted as Standard Metal Bearings Fitted As Standard Pre-Upgraded with a 1J spring out of the box! High Quality Silicone Wiring System Precision Cut Steel Reinforced Motor Pinion & Bevel Gears Complete Reinforced Main Gear Set - The strongest gears we have ever seen for an AEG! Larger, Re-Designed Hop-Up System (That is taken from the site I bought it from) Link to post Share on other sites
Almighty Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Just a quick battery question. I have a pre-upgraded ICS M4, but I don't know if I can use 9.6v batteries in it. So far I've only used 8.4v, but I want to know if 9.6v is safe.<{POST_SNAPBACK}> There shouldn't be a big problem. The ROF would increase, but the stiffer spring should bring it down a little. There'd be higher friction wear on the geartrain, but if not shooting long sustained full-auto fire, it should hardly matter. I have stock level AEGs and they're all running off large sub-C 9.6v packs. Link to post Share on other sites
ramsy66 Posted May 17, 2007 Report Share Posted May 17, 2007 Thanks almighty. I'll have to try it out. Even with the 8.4v I think the ROF is pretty high. I'll have to check how fast 9.6v is! Link to post Share on other sites
Stl Posted May 18, 2007 Report Share Posted May 18, 2007 Hi, The wires of my G&P battery are dead because the buffer tube compresses very much the wires, and I'm searching for the most resistant battery, ideally with silicone wires. What battery can you recommend to me? I need it has dean conector, 2000mha minimum and 9.6V. Thx...=D.. Link to post Share on other sites
Hewes Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 if i charge a battery for too how much will i wreck it? Link to post Share on other sites
Xaccers Posted July 11, 2007 Report Share Posted July 11, 2007 if i charge a battery for too how much will i wreck it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> If you drive a car as fast as you can in first until the engine dies, how much will you have wrecked it? Answer: enough. Cells can burn out, explode, wires can melt through the wrapping. It all depends on how much extra juice you've tried putting in it. This is why a charger with a delta peak cutoff is handy, it senses when the battery is full and stops charging. Link to post Share on other sites
dookieboy Posted July 13, 2007 Report Share Posted July 13, 2007 Okay i'm quite confused so If I have a 8.4 volt 600 mah NiCad stick battery, and I play games each saturday and sunday, also have the intellect smart charger, before each time I charge it should I put the setting on discharge as it automatically switches then over to charge. Also then if I was storing them for a month then I should geta TM discharger and them leave them discharged? Is this all right? Thanks in advance. Link to post Share on other sites
Almighty Posted July 15, 2007 Report Share Posted July 15, 2007 ..if I have a 8.4 volt 600 mah NiCad stick battery, and I play games each saturday and sunday, also have the intellect smart charger, before each time I charge it should I put the setting on discharge as it automatically switches then over to charge.<{POST_SNAPBACK}> IF you normally run your battery power down till it can no longer operate the AEG.. you may choose to discharge only once every 5 or so charging cycles - its less stressful for the batteries. Nevertheless, if your charger has automatic features, it's pretty much your choice either way... ..if I was storing them for a month then I should get a TM discharger and them leave them discharged? Is this all right? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> A TM discharger tends to overdischarge the battery unless properly or closely monitored. If you already have a charger with discharge function, using it till it switches over to charge will do just as well. In any case, 4 weeks of storage isn't really considered long-term. Longer than 3-4 months would be... Link to post Share on other sites
Zitrix Posted July 27, 2007 Report Share Posted July 27, 2007 DAMN! I just got a GP 8.4V battery (1100mAh) and I just realised its Ni-MH!! all my other ones are Ni-CD! my charger is one I never figured out properly before, its one of those Newstar 'Racing' chargers. Its got all this stuff on the front. Input AC 110-120/200-240~50/60Hrtz, but it says charging time one hour, but what i really want to know is, can i charge my Ni-MH on this, which is partially charged? and should I charge my other 8.4v and 9.4v ones for an hour too?!!!!!?!?! Link to post Share on other sites
Jay L.Macrae Posted July 29, 2007 Report Share Posted July 29, 2007 Nevermind this post... Wrong topic Link to post Share on other sites
ramsy66 Posted August 2, 2007 Report Share Posted August 2, 2007 I'm using a battery charger which charges large and mini batteries, you can change the number of cells and the Ma it chages at, but I'm a bit confused. It recommends to charge using the 6 cells option for 8.4v batteries, but the battery has 7 cells..? I'm a bit savvy with all this so any advice would be helpful, should I charge at 7 cells seeing as the battery has 7 cells, or will that damage it? Link to post Share on other sites
Zerosight Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 How different are the Li-poly batts compared to the usual Ni-Cad / NiMh? And how come they need additional balancers for charging, considering that the digital charger is already for the Li-poly batt? Link to post Share on other sites
Xaccers Posted August 10, 2007 Report Share Posted August 10, 2007 How different are the Li-poly batts compared to the usual Ni-Cad / NiMh? And how come they need additional balancers for charging, considering that the digital charger is already for the Li-poly batt? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Totally different to NiCD/MH cells. 3.7v per cell, produce hydrogen if they are damaged and shorted so can't be as mistreated as other battery types. Normally a much higher discharge rate so 7.4v batteries can perform like 8.4v or even 9.6v NiMH batteries. Packs can be the size of a mini, meaning you can put a high capacity battery in a gun which only has space for mini's. Can be safely charged in parallel, increasing capacity and discharge rate. Running them too low can damage them. You need a Lipol charger for them. They don't need to be balanced, but it can extend their life, by ensuring that each cell is actually charged the same. Link to post Share on other sites
Zerosight Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 So that's the reason why Lipoly produced higher ROF than the standard batts, when my mates tried out 9.6v of each kind. Thanks! Link to post Share on other sites
Xaccers Posted August 11, 2007 Report Share Posted August 11, 2007 So that's the reason why Lipoly produced higher ROF than the standard batts, when my mates tried out 9.6v of each kind. Thanks! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> You can't get 9.6v li-pols (saphion yes, but they're lithium phosphate). The closest are 7.4v and 11.1v Link to post Share on other sites
Zerosight Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 That's true... I think what they did was that they ordered the raw type or separated cells and started from there. It's just good that the thinner types are coming out now, considering that gun weight is also a factor to consider for day-long games. Link to post Share on other sites
Xaccers Posted August 13, 2007 Report Share Posted August 13, 2007 Lipol cells are 3.7v each, so you can have 3.7, 7.4, 11.1, 14.8 etc Likewise, NiMH cells are 1.2v so you have 7.2, 8.4, 9.6, 10.8 etc Saphion, which are lithium phosphate, are 3.2v per cell, so 3 of them in series and you have 9.6v They're about the same diameter of mini NiMH cells, but slightly longer. Also, I've only been able to find 1200mAh saphion cells. However, you can wire them in parallel, giving you a 2400mAh 9.6v battery that's only slightly longer than a 9.6v Handy for people with G36's etc who don't want to lose RoF by using a 7.4v or go too fast with an 11.1v Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieQB Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Morning all Just got a new charger...... http://www.airsoftarmoury.co.uk/popup_imag...pID=950&image=0 Can some one please explain to me the use of the dial on the front as I didn't get a manual with the charger. It seems to control the charge rate from 0.5A - 5.5A. I understand the formula given for working out the charge time on my new 4300mAh 9.6v battery but I miffed as to the charge rate. Firstly would 300mA be 3A on the dial or is that to simple?. Secondly Would/should the charge rate match the mAh of the battery ie. 4.3A? Would..... 4300mAh divided by 4.3A x 1.4 = 14hours ....be correct, with a 17hr first charge? Thanks in advance Link to post Share on other sites
Semtex Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Charlie, With that type of charger you do not have to worry about charge time, simply set the dial depending on how quick you want to charge the battery, press the button on the top, the charger will beep at you and the red fast charge light will come on. Once the charger detects that the battery is full it will beep 16 times and stop the fast charge, remember that it does NOT stop charging the battery, all it does is stop charging at the rate you have selected on the dial and drops to a trickle charge of something like 135ma. Now it will be OK to leave the battery on for a bit but be careful leaving it even trickle charging for to long as it will break the battery. I tend to charge my batts while I'm at home and when I hear the beeping I remove the battery from the charger. Now as for the dial, it is simple the amount of charge you are pushing into the battery per hour, if your in a rush you could turn it up to 3A and charge the battery in quick time. I would however charge your new battery on the lowest setting for the first time. But be warned it will take a really long time. I'll try and find the manual for my one and let you have it. Cheers Rich Link to post Share on other sites
CharlieQB Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 So 4300mAh divided by 0.5A x 1.4 = 120hours!!! Bloodly hell 5 days charging?? So if I start charging it now, It'l be ready for tuesday nights game at the Werkz?? Cheers for the help Rich Link to post Share on other sites
Semtex Posted August 16, 2007 Report Share Posted August 16, 2007 Charlie, My calc works it out as. Total Battery Capacity (mAh) divided by Charge Rate (mA) multiplied by 1.4 4300/500 x 1.4 = 12.04 hours But the first charge should be longer. The charger you have will know when the battery is full. When I first charged my 3600mah battery it took quite a bit longer than the calculation suggested, I just waited until the charger beeped. With such a high mah battery you could probably charge it faster the first time. Link to post Share on other sites
uscmCorps Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Has anyone tried the Li-Ion batteries called Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4)? They're 3.2V cells so they'd be able to combine to produce 9.6V packs. The appropriate cells would probably be the 18650 Cylindrical Cell 3.2V, but they have two types, one that has a 3C Drain rate, and another with a 15C Drain rate. I'm a bit unsure about how drain rates apply for our use. They also have a Li-Fe-PSO4 Rechargeable: 26650 (long C) Cylindrical Cell 3.2V 1600 mAh, 10C Drain Rate (LS-26650) which has a larger diameter (same length) but more capacity. I was thinking a 3 cell stick pack of one of these various cells would be a good candidate to be placed in the buffer tube of an M4. And are these the same type of cells that some people refer to as Saphion? Any thoughts on this? Link to post Share on other sites
Xaccers Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Has anyone tried the Li-Ion batteries called Lithium Iron Phosphate (LiFePO4)? They're 3.2V cells so they'd be able to combine to produce 9.6V packs. The appropriate cells would probably be the 18650 Cylindrical Cell 3.2V, but they have two types, one that has a 3C Drain rate, and another with a 15C Drain rate. I'm a bit unsure about how drain rates apply for our use. They also have a Li-Fe-PSO4 Rechargeable: 26650 (long C) Cylindrical Cell 3.2V 1600 mAh, 10C Drain Rate (LS-26650) which has a larger diameter (same length) but more capacity. I was thinking a 3 cell stick pack of one of these various cells would be a good candidate to be placed in the buffer tube of an M4. And are these the same type of cells that some people refer to as Saphion? Any thoughts on this? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Yeah Saphion are the same. Over this side of the pond I've only been able to find them in 1200mAh cells, 15C discharge. A 9.6v 2400 (3s2p) setup would be £40 with a discharge of 36A Not bad, but I can get 3 1400mAh 9.6v NiMH and still have change of £40 So given the pros and cons, I decided it wasn't really worth going for, especially as my 2500mAh 7.4v lipol lasts all day and only costs about £25. Link to post Share on other sites
br3nt Posted October 1, 2007 Report Share Posted October 1, 2007 Yeah Saphion are the same. Over this side of the pond I've only been able to find them in 1200mAh cells, 15C discharge. A 9.6v 2400 (3s2p) setup would be £40 with a discharge of 36A Not bad, but I can get 3 1400mAh 9.6v NiMH and still have change of £40 So given the pros and cons, I decided it wasn't really worth going for, especially as my 2500mAh 7.4v lipol lasts all day and only costs about £25. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> xaccers I would really like to *chaffinch* chat to you about lipos if you are at this sundays gz game (7th) please. If at all possible let me know buddy. Link to post Share on other sites
Royal-Air-Force Posted October 4, 2007 Report Share Posted October 4, 2007 Hey guys Ok n00bie queation...My CA SCAR takes my 600mAh Ni-CD but dosent want to use my Ni-MH. So i take it a gun that uses a Ni-CD wont take a Ni-MH? And why wont it? Link to post Share on other sites
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