wilekcmc Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 (edited) Real Sword Type 97 Personal Review I've been looking around now for a new AEG but didn't want something that you see every weekend on the field. So I contacted Real Sword and they hooked me up with their Type 97 AEG. Please remember that this is from my point of view, we all have different ways at looking at things. Table of Contents First Impressions Real Steel History Appearance/Feel/Build Quality Internals To Be Continued First Impression Will i have to say that i am impressed with the care in which they package their products. Everything is protected with foam cushions and neatly packaged. When I opened the box the first thing i saw was the Japanese Certificate meeting the one joule limit (I live in Japan so there's a one joule limit). The purchase includes the following items: Type 97 AEG, Small Tool Kit, Oil Container, 130 Round Mag, Extra Muzzle (Not The Orange One That Came With It). Cleaning Rod, BB Loader, Owner's Manual and a Quick Reference Take Down Guide (Not Shown In Photo). Battery is not included with the AEG and is a custom style. With this purchase for Real Sword I included an extra 130 round mag, 300 round high cap mag and the 97 picatinny mount base. At this point I am pleased with what i have, but the real test of this AEG is how it handles, its construction and upkeep. Real Steel History Sorry but i am not going into the history of the Type 97. If you would like more information on the real steel, please checkout the Wikipedia at http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/QBZ-95 Appearance/Feel/ Build Quality Picking up the Type 97 seemed to be very natural and comfortable, compared to the real steel the weight of the AEG was surprisingly light. movement and handling of the AEG is easy, fits tight against your shoulder, trigger feels to be in the right place, along with the front hand grip. This will also make a good CQB weapon besides as the Standard Assault Rifle. All of the steel and polymer used on this AEG looks great and seems to be of high quality. The front and rear sights are easy to use and are at a good height from the base of the AEG. One thing that is needed is to make shore after each usage that the AEG is wiped down with some kind of gun oil to help prevent rust. There are only three markings on this AEG, serial, select switch and a warning label. Hop up adjustment is easy, pull back the charging handle and it will open the ejection port exposing the adjustment knob. The port only opens about half of a inch or so. The mag release is only on this side of the AEG and that's is the ejection round side/hop up is located, right by the warning label. part 1 part 2 Now for something interesting, the way they set up the mount for your scopes, red dots and so on, was thought out. They used a good heavy peace of steel that was lathed and set in the carrying handle. What you see is that the steel can support the weight, but also the carrying handle re enforces the rail system for your scopes/red dots. Before After Rail Installation Internals Now we are to the heart of this AEG, what makes it work and how well it will stand up to other AEG's and its performance. For the take down, i will use the quick reference guide that was provided. 1. Push though the stock butt pin (pin does not remove from the slide well), then remove the rear stock when pulling the cocking lever to the rear. Pull the cocking lever to the rear and reove the screw on the dust cover. This will expose the mecbox. 2. Remove the fixed screw on the rear trigger lever. Set the selector lever to the A position and pull the trigger. The trigger lever will break lose. 3. Pull the upper carry handle back and upwards to remove it. 4. Remove the lower hand guard pin, Pull the lower hand guard down and forward and remove it. 5. Look down were the trigger is and this is where you place your battery. Part 3 6. Remove the fixed on the rear part of the mechbox, this will allow you to remove the machbox. 7. Remove the two screws holding your hop up unit in place. Then pull back on the unit to remove the inner barrel. There's a surprises here, the inner barrel is a smooth tight bore with a length of 485mm. The hop up rubber is that of a stock AEG. Over all take down is not that hard but if you are not use to it, it can take time. All the metal is well oiled and fits well together. No lose parts or wobbles that I can see. As for the battery it may be better to leave it in for recharging, but for long term storage its best to breakdown the AEG and remove it. Recharging can be done though the bottom of the hand grip. Here's an option for you if you don't want to use the custom battery, try a LIPO, it will fit in the trigger handle. The Mecbox · The outer cover of the mechboxs has a finished coating to it, you can also see the 7mm ball bearings. · Spring is a SP90 with a polycarb spring guide with metal base. · Reinforced piston and ball bearing piston head · The gears are well made and are up to standards · Standard cylinder To Be Continued This is the first part of a two part review; the second half will cover the Performance, Pro, Cons, Mods and The Final Word of the Type 97 AEG. This post has been promoted to an article Edited January 13, 2011 by Arnie Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tosuzu Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 In your next post mind showing some pictures of the hop-up unit? Great review Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wilekcmc Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 tosuzu said: In your next post mind showing some pictures of the hop-up unit? Great review Shore can, but i can tell you now that it looks like the same style used in my TM G36C and TM P90, the only differences is how the adjustment wheel is set up. Thanks for the kudos. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GoLgO 13 Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 Looks good my friend, You need to crack open that gearbox now! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wilekcmc Posted January 20, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 GoLgO 13 said: Looks good my friend, You need to crack open that gearbox now! Thanks Golgo 13, i was going to ask for your help when the time came for that Planing on adding the mosfet, 16AWG silicone wire, softer hop up rubber and that custom battery mount all at the same time. hint hint Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 20, 2010 Report Share Posted January 20, 2010 Interesting that yours has a tightbore. I don't think mine has (judging by the groupings). Also, the hop rubber in mine is a bit longer than standard and has a longer lip at the nozzle end. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrKalinka Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Ive got one of these and i have opened the gearbox a lot more than i would like. My motor cut out on me suddenly. After a game it just stopped working. I dont know why though. Overall a good weapon, but the sights are bad and very high. So high in fact that you will be looking into the rear of the carryhandle untill you adjust for it. Also, the pistol grip is very far back. Because of the light weight, it is no problem, but it might be a bit uncomfortable. The fireselector is also out of reach, so you better get used to walking around with your finger off the trigger. Trigger pull is long. And i mean loooooooong. I got used to it though. Just a quick comment Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 DrKalinka said: Also, the pistol grip is very far back. But that's one of the selling points, isn't it? A bullpup that is more balanced and not as rear-heavy as comparable bullpups. I bought mine after I handled a T97 and loved the balance. DrKalinka said: Because of the light weight, it is no problem, but it might be a bit uncomfortable. You must be strong . I find the T97 a bit heavy if I'm honest. I much prefer the lighter weight of my Ares CTAR. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DrKalinka Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Oh, im not strong. Im talking about the perceived weight when shouldered. The CTAR feels a bit heavy when shouldered, but the T97 doesent. Think its due to all the heavy parts being in the back and allmost no heavy parts in the front. That is all plastic of some kind. The CTAR has overall more receiver and parts, making it a bit heavier in the front. I have the rail kit installed though so it adds a bit. Might also add that i do have a Surefire 951 light on it as well, but these observations is with it off. With the light it does get front heavy. But not too much. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Yeah The Type 97 is mildly rear heavy. It does centre around the pistol grip, so it doesn't feel it. I mounted an RIS M203 shorty onto the front of the Type 97, and it shifts the balance back where the trigger is, which is fantastic. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pvtcody Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 I was also wondering why your T97 came with a tightbore,as mine did not.Did you take an accurate measurement? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wilekcmc Posted January 21, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 pvtcody said: I was also wondering why your T97 came with a tightbore,as mine did not.Did you take an accurate measurement? The mik i used, is the same one i us during machine work and it read 6.05 +-.02 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
pvtcody Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Many thanks,might be able to put my old T97 barrel to some use! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 wilekcmc said: The mik i used, is the same one i us during machine work and it read 6.05 +-.02 So it could be as wide as 6.07? I think that's where my money is, given the spread of groupings I get. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SilentTank Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 The Reptile House said: So it could be as wide as 6.07? I think that's where my money is, given the spread of groupings I get. Would you say definitevly that you like the ares over the real sword? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 21, 2010 Report Share Posted January 21, 2010 Yes mate - currently I prefer the Ares Tavor. I think I've been lucky with the QC on my Tavor - maybe someone put it together with care - so it's been great OOTB. The Real Sword has also been great OOTB, but when it comes down to it I think the ergonomics of the Tavor are more suited to me. Having said that, the Real Sword's build quality internal and external are excellent and it strips easily. I prefer the Tavor's polymer, but the Real Sword's chassis is steel, which makes it bomb proof. Also, I would hazard that the Real Sword would be very happy on big springs in its stock form for a long time. Not so sure the Tavor would be, for as long. But remember, we have much lower FPS limits here. I'd say I'm currently using both about 50/50, although next time I play the Tavor will become my primary. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SilentTank Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 The Reptile House said: Yes mate - currently I prefer the Ares Tavor. I think I've been lucky with the QC on my Tavor - maybe someone put it together with care - so it's been great OOTB. The Real Sword has also been great OOTB, but when it comes down to it I think the ergonomics of the Tavor are more suited to me. Having said that, the Real Sword's build quality internal and external are excellent and it strips easily. I prefer the Tavor's polymer, but the Real Sword's chassis is steel, which makes it bomb proof. Also, I would hazard that the Real Sword would be very happy on big springs in its stock form for a long time. Not so sure the Tavor would be, for as long. But remember, we have much lower FPS limits here. I'd say I'm currently using both about 50/50, although next time I play the Tavor will become my primary. ahh excellent. Another thing that I was wondering about the real sword, how inconvenient is it to find batteries to fit in it? Do lipos work anywhere? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 You can buy a lipo which fits in the grip without modification to the AEG. There's one here. Mine had a very poor ROF on an 8.4v, so I use an 11.1v in a bag. Not to everyone's taste, but it gets the job done and there's no fiddling about with battery fitment. Plus, I can't see it in use as it's facing away from me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SilentTank Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 The Reptile House said: You can buy a lipo which fits in the grip without modification to the AEG. There's one here. Mine had a very poor ROF on an 8.4v, so I use an 11.1v in a bag. Not to everyone's taste, but it gets the job done and there's no fiddling about with battery fitment. Plus, I can't see it in use as it's facing away from me Oh battery sling?? That sounds excellent which kind? Hows the rof with the 11.1? And From redwolf's review it sounds like the internals are all pretty close to bullet proof. Any problems with yous? And Hows the easy spring swap? Do you use higher springs like m120? or higher? Haha thanks for your time! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 (edited) I used a battery sling for a while, but found it a bit ungainly. It's certainly possible to use one though (I liked the Laylax one the best). I now use a battery bag, which I strap to far side of the T97, on the foregrip. ROF with an 11.1v is decent. I'm not sure what the RPM is, but people keep commenting that it sounds fast (particularly if they've been hit by me ). Yes - the internals are very robust. Spring swap is easy, but I'm only using an M100. It'll take much bigger springs, though. I have had absolutely no problems with mine - it's highly dependable. The only change I intend to make to mine at some point is installing a tightbore (I'm not convinced the barrel is anything other than standard) and maybe changing the hop rubber out for something softer (as well as replacing the nub). No rush, though. A good source of info is Real Sword's own website - particulaly the in depth reviews: Clicky. Edited January 23, 2010 by The Reptile House Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SilentTank Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 The Reptile House said: I used a battery sling for a while, but found it a bit ungainly. It's certainly possible to use one though (I liked the Laylax one the best). I now use a battery bag, which I strap to far side of the T97, on the foregrip. ROF with an 11.1v is decent. I'm not sure what the RPM is, but people keep commenting that it sounds fast (particularly if they've been hit by me ). Yes - the internals are very robust. Spring swap is easy, but I'm only using an M100. It'll take much bigger springs, though. I have had absolutely no problems with mine - it's highly dependable. The only change I intend to make to mine at some point is installing a tightbore (I'm not convinced the barrel is anything other than standard) and maybe changing the hop rubber out for something softer (as well as replacing the nub). No rush, though. A good source of info is Real Sword's own website - particulaly the in depth reviews: Clicky. Haha thanks for your time! And would you say its pretty south paw friendly?? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 Difficult to answer that as I am right handed...no worse than anything else that isn't ambidextrous, I guess. In fact it could be an advantage to be southpaw as far as the selector is concerned - I keep knocking it, myself. I suspect everyone finds the mag release button a pain, as it's too small Quote Link to post Share on other sites
SilentTank Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 The Reptile House said: Difficult to answer that as I am right handed...no worse than anything else that isn't ambidextrous, I guess. In fact it could be an advantage to be southpaw as far as the selector is concerned - I keep knocking it, myself. I suspect everyone finds the mag release button a pain, as it's too small oh really? Hmm there could be a way to fix that I'm sure. BTW do you have the type97 or 97B? The B is the one I am wanting big time Quote Link to post Share on other sites
The Reptile House Posted January 23, 2010 Report Share Posted January 23, 2010 You get used to the mag release - it's not a deal breaker. I have the 97. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wilekcmc Posted January 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2010 Here is anther part of my review on the T97 Performance This AEG fires an average of 14 rounds a second or 840 round a minute, not bad for a stock AEG. Here is the sound bite form this test. Range The range I tested at was at 25 meters and every shot had a tight grouping, BB's used was SIIS .2 grams. Sorry no pics for this too much snow and ice outside. Chrono Well for a 1J spring the AEG was shooting between 247 & 250 FPS on nearly every shoot, again SIIS .2 bb's were used. No hop up used for this test, remember I live in Japan so only 1 joule is allowed. Pros I find that the Type 97 is a well balanced AEG, most of the weight is in the rear of the gun and the pistol grip is at the right length for me. Having the mag in the rear of the gun I find this AEG to be well suited for both CQB or as your Standard Assault Rifle. Mags are easy to come by if you stay with the metal ones, I tried the Real Sword Mid Cap, Airsoft Elite High Cap, and the King Arms Magpul mag (but you will need to file down the outer lip on the left side of this mag, it is a tight fit). All of the material used are of high quality and fit well to gather. This is the standard that I have found with all of the Real Sword Products. Cons The only thing I have against this AEG is the battery, it requires a brake down of the AEG each time you remove or install a battery. See my mod section to see what I have done to fix this problem Personal Opinion This is what I think of the Real Sword Type 97, for the dollar value and quality of manufacturing. I can't beat it, very few companies try to keep true with the real steel weapons, but Real Sword has kept true to making a fantastic replica. Yes I would recommend this to anyone that is looking for an AEG that gives you great performance and is an eye catcher every were you take it. Mods Mounting a PEQ15 Red Laser & Li-Po battery between the front site and the carrying handle. Installing a Mofest Wiring upgrade to 16 AWG Silicone Wire Upgrade spring to shoot 300 fps Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.