EmptyChambers

Believe Marui actually attempted to get the proper angle as well. All other AKs use the 47/AKM style grip.

I hate you...

Looks to be off of a Yugo M70.

Please tell me that you aren't using that *suitcasey* CYMA sling on such a nice gun...

If the AK74 muzzle break is threaded like the real one is, the cap will be 24mm. Standard AK are 14mm left hand, or -14mm. I have a real akm break on mine.

Sounds reasonable. The pink fleshy stuff is much easier on the blade after all.

Sadly, I've seen several G&G with broken stocks knocking around games here in Texas. I didn't understand why people were running battery bags and had removed the stocks until I got up close and took a look. Perhaps not widespread, but I wouldn't call your breakage an isolated incident...

Keeping it classy...

Not Wing Tsun guys. I don't really know where you got that, but its nothing like it, except for centerline and his tendency to shoulder rifles further in on the body...

And ninja'd crayon into your cyrillic selector positions...

I fingerbanged one a couple months ago, and it was tempermental. It shut off randomly from the recoil of a 7.62x39, mounted on an ultimak. And no, it wasn't heat buildup.

T'is true Seraph. Eotech have quite a few problems, and its why you don't see many US personal using them, as the aimpoint is much more robust.

Protip: It uses a microswitch as a trigger unit. Not a mosfet, but no contacts to fry, and you can very easily mod it to achieve an active braking effect.

Yup, that'll do yah although you may have to remove the small collar on top of the motor.

Nope. Either get a medium, or cut down the shaft of a long motor.

And I'll start it off by pointing you to the correct place for these. 5-7 is nice, but doesn't need its own thread... http://www.arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/inde...howtopic=101248

Nice legs. Seems like you'd get pretty scratched up wearing those though. I know the South Africans did it, but it always looks a little odd to me. Still, it gets hot, and sometimes it worth it to be comfortable, eh Stuntman?

They both use the same hopup bucking.

Perhaps I should rephrase. More reliable than the WA/WE systems. The WA tend to experience parts failures in what, a few hundred rounds? I know the reports are out there. Why are you trying to hold this platform to a different standard than another? A sense of elitism? And none of the WE seem particularly trouble free either... WA hopups shatter, correct? They don't tolerate green gas? The bolt dies... I'm sure RATEch has a reason for producing a $250 replacement bolt, even before the AGM came out... What I don't understand is why people accept a crappy system simply on the

Nice to see a cheap reliable platform finally coming out of the cracks. I know people are going to *badgeress* about, say the AGM, but I consider it to be a non contender. When I see reports of critical parts failure within a few hundred rounds, and then several hundred dollars in repairing parts that are sub standard, in part of a flawed system, I really don't understand. Be interested in picking one of these up to be honest. The power would need to be sorted, but its not a particularly difficult issue.

Ahhh, I apologize. I'm not necessarily replacing it with another coat hanger stock, but the original AIM full stock. The AIMS trunnion looks fairly close to the block used to secure the stocks on the RS. I'll probably give it a shot regardless. I got a killer deal on the wood kit...

Hey guys. I need to know if I can take a VFC/Cyma AIMS and replace the stock with a real one. It at least appears closer to the RS block, so I was hoping... I'd also heard things about the VLTOR stock adapter, fitting them, which appears to support my thoughts. Can you help a guy out?

Assuming that they still use a micro switch inside the body, it would be the cause of any lock ups. I know my old STAR FNC would occasionally lock up, and there was a small hole through which to depress the unit again. Fortunately, I think it happened 4 times in the entire time I owned it. If its just a lockup in semi, which can be alleviated by a full auto burst, than yes, its normal. The Lipo should help to alleviate it, but a high torque motor would be the best solution. Might try looking for a suspicious hole somewhere on the gun.

Move your head forward and get a good cheek weld instead of just shoving it down on the back.