Mobius Strip

SIG P226 two tone PGC/Pro Win metal kit, slide refinished. Shooters Design stainless take down lever Guarder chrome slide release and slide catch, blasted satin to match take down lever. Real SIG early grips. Guarder steel guide rod. Guarder nozzle and valve blocker. Nine ball 6.03mm barrel RCC hammer and recoil springs.

Beretta 92FS Inox with walnut grips Nova Beretta 92FS Inox kit Marui M9A1 donor Beretta walnut grips. 4 Nova kits, from left to right: 92FS Inox with Walnut grips 92FS with US markings 92FS Inox with Farrar rubber grips M9 with refinished Resident Evil grips

Harrington & Richardson T223 (early HK33) as used by SEALs on a limited basis in Vietnam. Classic Army CA33 base gun.

Ah, most interesting. I had my eye on a similar two tone kit under the PGC banner on RW simply for the slide (as it was for the pre E2 guns). Having just checked, the kit I was watching is now sold out and this Pro-Win branded (same folks of course) new kit is in, and as you say a weird combo Elite slide and no beavertail? I suppose anything is possible in a custom gun Curious that it is built for the pre E2 series 226R when I was under the impression they were currently just doing kits for the E2 types. Mind you it shouldn't take *too* much effort to adjust it/part swap to suit. Thank you again for the find Squad, it's being considered

I see where you are going..... In theory it can be done, but alas the gun currently resides with a friend who is buying it. I guess he was a bigger Resident Evil fan after all Which puts me back where I started for a two tone SIG!

Thank you chaps One more..... "SIG Sauer P226 Sentinel Nine" Tokyo Marui Sentinel Nine (developed in conjunction with Capcom for the Biohazard/Resident Evil series of games). Sadly it never made it into Resident Evil 6, perhaps they will add it as DLC http://www.tokyo-marui.co.jp/bio/special/sentinelnine/ Tokyo Marui base gun Shooters Design metal kit Guarder Nozzle and valve blocker. Nine Ball XDM 6.03mm inner barrel. 'Stand off' flash hider not fitted and standard magazine in lieu of the extended one. Having built it, I felt the slide was a touch too matt, so I gave the sides a brushed finish. I have always liked the two tone SIG 226: black frame with silver slide and controls. Although I originally planned to blast a black slide back to silver on a Pro-Win kit, Shooters Design came out with this kit for the E2 based Sentinel Nine just in time. I have a soft spot for all things Resident Evil so it seemed worth it. Was the kit worth more than double the price of the Pro-Win? Not really, although it did have some nice touches to aid assembly.

"SIG Sauer P226 'upgraded' with Short Reset Trigger and E2 grips" Tokyo Marui base gun Pro-Win 226 metal kit for E2 series Guarder Nozzle and valve blocker. Nine Ball 6.03mm inner barrel. I did play around with the Marui 226R a while back and just couldn't get on with the longish trigger reset especially after using tuned 1911 triggers for so long. The newer E2 has shaved the reset from 9mm or so of the 226R down to 5mm on the E2. That combined with the slimmer trigger and smaller grip of the E2 makes the operation much easier for those of us with 'girls' hands However, after consideration: I decided to fit some real SIG P226 grips of the appropriate vintage for this gun. I did fit the early mag release too, which has serrations, but once in place I felt the later chequered one complimented the grips more and I already had the later SRT on there anyway. =============== "SIG Sauer P226R" Tokyo Marui base gun Pro Win 226R kit for E2 Guarder nozzle and Valve blocker Nine Ball 6.03mm inner barrel Real 226 grips The happy couple with their appropriate grips.

You know me and the sound of my own voice It's a WA SCW1 based Para Ord with PGC metal frame (very rare) along with Prime Para PXT metal slide. Very nice too if I do say so myself. Glad to see it's in good hands

Thanks for the comments chaps, I've so wanted one for ages just a shame it took so long to get it done. To answer some of the questions, the AR-18 was a broken JAC external gas one that I modified and shoe horned a V2 AEG box into, took longer than the laser The laser is a replica that was made up at an enginering firm, it has a real modern laser inside with buckets of room to spare! I started to do the 3 piece threaded laser outer myself but thankfully the owner took my drawing from me after watching my painfully slow efforts and created what you see. The grip mount is the same as the one used on the film, I bead blasted the top section back to bare aluminium to look like the original. I've gamed with the AMT many a time, I'll have to get more mags for the AR and take them as a pair!

".45 Longslide with laser sighting" Western Arms SCW2/3 AMT Longslide Prime metal kit Western Arms aftermarket metal chamber Lightweight blowback chamber Lightweight recoil spring plug Usual fiddle inside Scope mount cosmetics as per the original 650nm/5MW laser Currently working on discreet switching and some other minor details....... AR-18 AEG for decoration

This one's a 'keeper'

Thank you, I'm glad you like it. There's something really special about the 'original' I got the M1911 kit from www.boomarms.com more specifically this page: http://www.boomarms.com/shop/item.cfm/id/PRIME-KIT-1911M The first generation kit I bought years ago disappeared off the site very quickly so grab one of these while you can.....or wait until they re-release them. Again

Thanks buddy. Kongsberg M1914 you say? Ah, if only, I have been hoping for a metal kit since WA released theirs. I think it was Rocken in Japan that made a replica metal M1914, so you never know

Western Arms SCW2/3 M1911 with Prime metal kit. This is Primes second go at the WWI era M1911 kit. There are some differences between this and the first generation kit but nothing too major. The Prime M1911 shown here with a PCG kitted WA SCW2/3 M1911A1

Unfortunately, I've never seen that part sold as a separate item. You could always ask Sanko or Enten if they could get it for you, being suppliers in Japan it may be easier for them. I think careful modification of the part you have is the easiest solution, at least you know that part can be replaced with less difficulty should you need another.