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Browning 0.50cal By MadDog & Catman


MadDog

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Day 4 - Saturday 17th, March

 

Some more progress, we're waiting on a shipment of some bits before we can full conquer the internals

 

Drilling out the front end for the outer-inner barrel:

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Drilling the screw holes for the bottom plate

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The bottom plate will hold the piston so it needs to be removable, heres what it looks like with the screws in.

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We mess about with the internal design and despite a leaky test rig get a reasonable ~300fps from compressed air. Holding the piston while it recoils is an experience :D

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(^^ over £600's worth of stuff in that photo :o)

 

MadDog welds the outer-inner barrel on:

IMGP1606.jpg

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Day 5 - Monday 19th, March

Not a huge amount of material progress made today, some parts didn't arrive in the post so we're stuck in a few areas until they do.

 

Piston bracket partially made and a rough prototype lever put together:

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We tapped the drill holes on each side of the body

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Not a lot else to show atm rest of the time was spent measuring and overcoming problems with the internals. Hoping to get my paws on the sandblaster attachment for the air-compressor so we can make it look all bling-bling shiny :P

 

 

 

 

 

Edit: oh good I can still edit this post... has anyone got the detailed plans for the M2? We're after CAD drawings we can use to measure up the side panels as we're having a little trouble working out the detailed bits - especially the cocking handle section. I can find some "blueprints" online but they all want to charge money for paper versions :huh: If you got what we need please PM me, cheers!

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Cheers :) Coo, no worries though, if I get lost in the woods I'll just ask Gentle Ben for directions or a pack of Lassie's.

 

:P

 

Trawing around the web last night, I found the "M2 M3HB Tutorial Version 2" and "Browning Machine Gun Caliber .50 HB, M2" PDF variations of the field manual as well as detailed blueprints of the two side panels and a few internal bits but nothing else. Really need to find the blueprints/CAD drawings of the trigger, handle assembly and the upper and lower body parts. The barrel parts would be handy but we can live without those.

 

The build is being held up atm as we need some parts from RS and they haven't arrived - and naturally they're the important bits we can't do much without. Most of the project build time is now spent with us taking it in turns behind the frame making machine gun noises and going "It's gonna be soooo brilliant!". :P:D

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RS Parts now arrived, We now have a barell, a drill bit (to make the heatsheild) and some liner ball bush bearings.

 

We still have quite a way to go but things should start moving again now.

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looks real good guys.

a few "questions" on the firing system test rig, what PSI were you running to hit the 300 mark

I see a 3 way valve an what I will pusume is a single acting clinder with a spring return and a counter.

you guys seem to have a handle on your pneumatics. but i thought I would offer a few thoughts on making the system more efficant and get more FPS per psi, not to "break" any 1j limits, but to give you more shots per bottle of gass.

feel free to tell me to shove it :angry: but i have a bit of experance in this area

1st move the counter to the cylinder side of things. All that volume is robing the barrel of power, on the outher side it will be adding power.

3 way sonloid valves can be very slow, instead use a Quick Exust Valve that is driven by your solnoid. http://cgi.ebay.com/SMC-NAQ2000-SOLENOID-V...4QQcmdZViewItem

sence the ebay listing wount last heres a stable one for long turn viewing

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/wwg/itemD...emId=1611628429

they make a MAGOR diffrance in your flow speed do to the speed or the valve and the reused drag of the system. they are made for just this task, dumping air as fast as posabul for a cylinder (so it will cycle faster)

if it is at all possabul go with a clinder with larger ports (and thus a QEV with larger ports, the "pilot" solonoid can stay the same) this will reduse you drag, giving you faster flow speed and more fps.

 

lastly have you thought a bout putting in a simple strafer type system? let it buzz away @ 75+BB a sec, while a pulsing relay makes a 2 way piston with a 4 way valve go "chunk a chunk a chunk". gives you the "feel" but still makes the 11v lipopoly w/high speed gears cry mommy

 

top it off you run the vents in to the chamber and you don't loose much engery, and its a open a ball valve and dump in BBs loading with no moving parts on the firing side of things

edit

:unsure::unsure::unsure:

I think I just found my next project :rolleyes:

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The system we were going to run is a single acting cylinder, though a 3/2 valve. We are looking at using a roller actuated valve that will sit on top of a dog plate, this dog plate will be actuated by the tappet plate which is directly connected to the piston.

 

Doing it this way will reduce air consumption as the only air used will be the air used to move the piston back, which is then exhausted out the barrel. I completely agree with the flow situation, we already upgraded to a bigger valve, but we may get a bigger one yet, looking for a good flow coefficient, the valve I have in mind has a cv of 1.0 and a 25mm squared orifice, so that should give us plenty of flow down a 6mm OD bore (that has a 28.27mm squared orifice)

 

Thanks for the link on the valves, I will have a look at them when I get home, although I will have a look for some manually actuated ones as I don’t want to have gas and electric, would rather just one or the other, and as space is an issue I was going to steer clear of having pilot valves.

 

Excuse the diagram in paint, not exactly what we are doing but demonstrates the idea.

 

Thanks for the input, i would add to your rep but i can't, i'm sure catman will though.

 

normal_inners.JPG

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Exactly, I'd have suggested an inline vortex chamber if not for the 450-500 max ROF.

 

A QEV/paintball style bolt is a good idea, but it would be better to build a small piston valve that acts as the bolt as well. And with a QEV, you'd also need to build a system to turn on and cut off the airflow in order to actuate the valve.

 

Granted, though, you could just take a paintball system (ick :P).

 

Hope this isn't getting too complex. HowStuffWorks and a number of spudgun sites have some information on things like this.

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Yeah we're looking at about 450-650rpm. FPS, we're looking at achieve 280-350fps. We're going to have adjustment valves within the gun so we can regulate both settings.

 

We'll try and get a more detailed pic explaining the internals in greater depth later. With any luck we'll be doing more building over the weekend :D

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It varies, seen it as low as £20 return by foot on the ferry from Liverpool. Prices skyrocket a bit when motorbike events are on (TT race events, end of May thru to June). Theres another big motorbike event at the end of August as well so if, like me you didn't know about it you'll end up sharing a ferry with a load of blokes in leather :P

 

If you want to fly then the flights are classed as domestic - no idea about putting airsoft stuff on a domestic flight though. Oh most planes out to here are small and are turbo-props :D

 

 

Well we have our barrel and our barrel-bushings so tomorrow is another build day :)

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Day 6 - Sunday 25th, March

With the barrel and barrel bushings arrived some more work could be done :) The 25mm HSS drill bit had also arrived so the heatsheild could be worked on.

 

Here's the barrel shoved in to stage up what it'd be like, a Desert Eagle and a cuppa give you an idea of scale :P

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These are the bushings we're going to use for the barrel:

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Working on the Heatshield: First we drilled some pilot holes....which weren't big enough so we drilled them out to 13mm then used the 25mm. It took a very long time to drill through the metal as the pillar drill needed to be set to slow.

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We'd been spraying it with oil in case you're wondering

 

All the 13mm pilot holes drilled out:

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After a few hours of drilling and tinkering with the pillar drill the last hole is drilled out:

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While MadDog was drilling the Heatshield out I worked on the piston mount. Welding it onto the lower body - bit of an horrid weld but really needed to make sure it'd stand up to the punishment (Arc welding is hard to get neat and I'm a n00b at it anyway :P)

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That's fresh from the welder - that's why it looks wet ;)

 

The heatsheild all drilled out:

IMGP1660.jpg

Needs some touch up but we'll do that tomorrow :)

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