Mike Obrien Posted October 27, 2013 Report Share Posted October 27, 2013 So upgraded the AUG.... Now has a m120 spring in it and a full seal cylinder. still great compression, only 1 fps variation, occasionally 1.5 fps. shoots 420 w/ .2s 375 w/ .25s and 350 w/ .28s. I used that calculator hedganian posted and it said my estimated range was 170 feet roughly. Currently trying to find the time and place to go and test this theory, but I was wondering what others experiences have been and what they usually see these augs doing with such velocities. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted October 31, 2013 Report Share Posted October 31, 2013 It seems I can't edit my own post... so sorry I must post again. My scope (I have the AUG A1) hasn't been zero'd in awhile, and last time it was it was zero'd for 50 feet. but today I was shooting it and was hitting a target consistantly at 150 feet. If I aimed chest I hit thigh/leg. If I aimed head I hit chest/stomach. I am figuring it was dropping mostly due to the heavy air of rainy weather and my scope being zero'd into targets at a much closer range. I was thinking if I zero'd it in for 100 feet it would be a little closer to center. Any ideas? not sure if I can shoot past 150, I can't really see how far the BB's keep going, hard to see a 6mm white ball at 100 feet+. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted November 1, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 What's your average engagement range? Zero for that then just aim-off for targets closer or further away. I'm not really sure why you're so worried about such long ranges, I doubt that in a skirmish situation that you'd be able to accurately hit anyone at those ranges due to wind and other factors moving the BB off-target not to mention the amount of time the target would have to dodge the shot (this has happened to me plenty of times with long range shots, from both sides of the rifle). Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 1, 2013 Report Share Posted November 1, 2013 I actually have a few places near me that have these ranges, indoors. So the opportunity for it is there. Plus I tend to take more of a DMR role when I work with my group. I also simply like to follow the philosophy of I am 200 feet from the target the targets max range is 150 mine is 300 as long as I stay 100 feet away he can't hit me but I can hit him all day Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted November 2, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 2, 2013 Fair enough. I hope you can get good enough accuracy to hit someone so far away with an inherently unstable spherical BB. EDIT: Post number 5200, bitches! Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 So I just learned, you can't ER-hop an AUG completely without a lot of modifcation to the hop unit. The hop unit doesn't normally support an EM-nub. Not sure how to go about this... or if I should suck it up buy a prome barrel and IR-hop it... Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Snibble time, methinks. Oh by the way, guys, APS are doing AUGs now. Rails and rails and rails... Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 And it is still the same models that are available everywhere else, with more rails randomly tacked on. I would like to see an A3/SA, or a more affordable 9mm Para upper like the High Cycle. If nothing else it would at least provide something easier to customize than those 6lb, pot metal, out of spec rail, wobble fest having uppers on the market today. Ugh, APS really frustrates me. They seem hell bent on almost getting it right. Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 A Stanag mag version would sell like hot cakes . Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Those extra rails are pretty much useless. I can't see how you could put anything useful in those positions without having them get in the way of your face, hands and generally impede performance. Pity they can't put the money into designing something that people actually want - accurate replicas of the various real steel AUG versions... Maybe we should start a write-in campaign? Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Actually a bolt on rail on the right side of the upper receiver would be fantastic. Thats where I would mount the PEQ/Torch. The rails on the receiver is just silly. That and I haven't seen a 16" version, or a stanag version yes those would sell like hot cakes. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 No-one in that picture has anything mounted on a rail on the side of the receiver. They're mounted on rails hanging from a clamp attached to the scope. Actually not a bad idea, I wonder where they got them from...? Plus, mounting a PEQ on the receiver at that angle would probably interfere with the cocking handle. Mounting one further back on the stock would put it right opposite the user's face, inviting painful collisions. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 I drilled and mounted one myself, was pretty easy and turned out nice in my opinion. Here's the rail, cost me $5 and came with screws. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted November 12, 2013 Author Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 And *THAT* is actually not far from the real steel rail on the A3. Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 Those extra rails are pretty much useless. I can't see how you could put anything useful in those positions without having them get in the way of your face, hands and generally impede performance. Pity they can't put the money into designing something that people actually want - accurate replicas of the various real steel AUG versions... Maybe we should start a write-in campaign? I already sent them an email, but I never really got much in the way of reply from them when I sent in suggestions for the UAR when I got mine. My suggestions were an A3/SA upper and a one piece outer barrel. STANAG would be nice, but that would be a crazy long feed tube... Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 12, 2013 Report Share Posted November 12, 2013 The other thing the airsoft Steyr needs is a one piece aluminium/steel outer barrel. I sold my old CA Steyr because the two piece outer barrel set was bending under pressure from pushing and pulling of the foregrip, and has a noticable effect on accuracy. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted November 15, 2013 Report Share Posted November 15, 2013 Agree with the One piece outer barrel thing, that grub screw just doesn't cut it. Also as for a side rail on the A1 model what if you took something like say a scope ring and attached a Rail to that and just mounted them facing to the right or the left on the scope and mounted a peq/light to that? Link to post Share on other sites
Baddbaz Posted January 31, 2014 Report Share Posted January 31, 2014 The other thing the airsoft Steyr needs is a one piece aluminium/steel outer barrel. I sold my old CA Steyr because the two piece outer barrel set was bending under pressure from pushing and pulling of the foregrip, and has a noticable effect on accuracy.The exact reason that I use the phantom kit on mine . Minimises any barrel flex , but makes the gun a little bit unwieldy . Worth the trade off though ! Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 2, 2014 Report Share Posted February 2, 2014 Hello, everyone.... so I have been going through hell with my JG AUG... .I was trying to install a R-hop, and it is installed, and I should get an effective range of about 200 feet, 260 if I lob it. I can get the 200 feet, accuracy is a different story but as of late in new jersey we have had lots of storms and wind so it is hard to do any accurate tests outside. To further the accuracy of my tests I bought a chrono, and I found that my AUG with .28s has a fps variation of 340-350 averaging around 343-345. 10 fps variation is HUGE... and to top it off, every once in awhile (very random no consistency to this) I will have a shot that does 230ish fps, just one and it goes back to normal for awhile. I have already tried the tape on the plate to push the gearbox forward, the internals to the gearbox are mostly stock except the spring, and the spring guide. The hop up unit is a OE replacement, the bucking is a Prome purple soft type, and it is installed with an R-hop. My question is to you guys, what are the more common places you find leakdown on your augs? Last I had my gearbox apart my piston to cyl+cylh compression was great, but I have not tested nozzle compression at all or the nozzle to bucking seal in firing position, which I don't know how to check. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted February 3, 2014 Report Share Posted February 3, 2014 Check your nozzle is sealing against your cylinder head, check your cylinder head is the right length and doesn't have any play in it. Then check the tappet-spring isn't worn out and the tappet is returning quickly enough. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 4, 2014 Report Share Posted February 4, 2014 Check your nozzle is sealing against your cylinder head, check your cylinder head is the right length and doesn't have any play in it. Then check the tappet-spring isn't worn out and the tappet is returning quickly enough. How is it you check these things? Any forum with instructions on this? I know of nozzle compression loss, but I am unsure how to test it well, as for the cylinder head, that is new to me. Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 OK so I have determined how to check the nozzle, but the cylinder head thing, I can't find that anywhere. Anyone know what to do there? Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted February 5, 2014 Report Share Posted February 5, 2014 Install the gearbox compression parts (cylinder, cylinder head, nozzle, tappet plate and piston) into the right hand side of your gearbox (the side the trigger trolley does not mount on). Hold this in you left hand so that your finger hold the tappet in the forward position and your thumb covers the hole in the nozzle. With your right hand, pull the piston all the way back and then push it into the cylinder as though the gun is firing. If there are no leaks, you will not be able to push the piston all the way in. Guide here: http://www.airsoftforum.com/board/test-compression-leaks-t222834.html Link to post Share on other sites
Mike Obrien Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 So I have found I have leakage past my nozzle. Does anyone know a good aftermarket nozzle? Every forum I found talked of how AUG nozzles are all different lengths company to company. JG stock is different then CA as is TM and any other "upgrade" nozzle. Anyone find one that is just about always a good fit? I was going to try either the guarder, or the HAWK Aluminium one on evike. Never heard of the hawk one, can't find any reviews, figured I would be a test dummy unless someone can tell me of a good nozzle. Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted February 10, 2014 Report Share Posted February 10, 2014 Most of the nozzles seem too short for the JG AUGS, I have tried the Guarder with no success. I have had pretty good results with the aftermarket CA oring nozzles, they are the blue plastic ones. But to be frank, getting perfect nozzle to bucking seal on the AUG is a pain. The HAWK one might be worth a try, never hear of the brand but EU made at least means it is not the same old that has been kicking around forever. Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.