CapaciousZepher Posted December 15, 2008 Report Share Posted December 15, 2008 If you are interested, would you be able to PM me a quote for buying the prototype? Cheers! - CapaciousZepher Link to post Share on other sites
Gooberz Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 That's the beginning of my own mask, inspired by Heroshark's works. It's an Army of Two Salem style mask, custom made 3d model. PM me if you'd like the .pdo file of it. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 That's the beginning of my own mask, inspired by Heroshark's works. It's an Army of Two Salem style mask, custom made 3d model. PM me if you'd like the .pdo file of it. nice ,good to see someone else having a go. I'm ok for molds at the mo, but thanks for the offer though. How are you making your mold? Link to post Share on other sites
Gooberz Posted December 17, 2008 Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 I'm not going to bother making a mold, Just going to layer the entire thing with resin, then add layers of fiberglass after the previous layer dries. It's how costumers make "Halo Armor" (Mjolnir MKVI, for any Halo Fans out there). It's a reasonably sturdy way of doing things. EDIT: Did I mention your padding picture is amazing? That's a big help on my way to getting a nice, comfortable mask of my own. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 17, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 17, 2008 I'm not going to bother making a mold, Just going to layer the entire thing with resin, then add layers of fiberglass after the previous layer dries. It's how costumers make "Halo Armor" (Mjolnir MKVI, for any Halo Fans out there). It's a reasonably sturdy way of doing things. EDIT: Did I mention your padding picture is amazing? That's a big help on my way to getting a nice, comfortable mask of my own. I see ,interesting method. Yeah thats why I put that pic up Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 18, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2008 I've had a chat with Mr.Bitterend ,and hes not gonna sell me some mesh ,nor is he willing to give me a ballpark quote to mesh one of my masks. were back In discussion , he was busy with the christmas rush Link to post Share on other sites
Bldr.dh Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Hey, so I have a question. Is it logistically plausible to complete one of these in a day if you have access to a shop full of... everything? Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Hey, so I have a question. Is it logistically plausible to complete one of these in a day if you have access to a shop full of... everything? first you've got to make a mold ,by what ever method. then layup the mold, leave it over night to cure .Once cured, a good day of cutting, shaping ,sanding, painting ,and meshing .So more like 2 days if your realy going at it. Link to post Share on other sites
Gooberz Posted December 19, 2008 Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Ah, but using a pepakura model as a base you don't need a mold at all. You just have to deal with all the annoying hard fold lines... I have a question, though - Have you ever had a problem with cracking, or fracturing of the mask itself? I'd imagine with 12 layers it would be like shooting a piece of steel, but I thought I'd ask. Also, what are the specifics of your mesh? Some sort of large gauge speaker wire? Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 19, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2008 Ah, but using a pepakura model as a base you don't need a mold at all. You just have to deal with all the annoying hard fold lines... I have a question, though - Have you ever had a problem with cracking, or fracturing of the mask itself? I'd imagine with 12 layers it would be like shooting a piece of steel, but I thought I'd ask. Also, what are the specifics of your mesh? Some sort of large gauge speaker wire? I could imagine that being hard to do .Do lay small peices of chopped strand matte and build it up that way ,and do you do both the outside and inside? I've never cracked one .The recent black full head one ,I had to drop on the floor a few times to shatter the bust (which weighed alot as it was still soaking wet when I used it) because the mask wrapped round too much .Most of my other masks are 7 layers at least, which is still more than enough .The mesh is speaker cover, it has a 3mm hole, 1mm between each hole, and its 1mm thick. Link to post Share on other sites
apmaman Posted December 24, 2008 Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 Would it be possible to layer in some fabric on the last layer to get a specific camo pattern on the front? Kind of like the leaves you did the first time around but fabric instead. Edit: Although this is for a guitar it might give you a hand (God bless the old JEM77FP's) http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/mat.htm More cool things like Holo Flash, not exactly tactical, but still cool http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/holoflash.htm Swirling http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/swirled.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XUEbXAm-hY Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 24, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 24, 2008 Would it be possible to layer in some fabric on the last layer to get a specific camo pattern on the front? Kind of like the leaves you did the first time around but fabric instead. Edit: Although this is for a guitar it might give you a hand (God bless the old JEM77FP's) http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/mat.htm More cool things like Holo Flash, not exactly tactical, but still cool http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/holoflash.htm Swirling http://www.projectguitar.com/tut/swirled.htm http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=8XUEbXAm-hY I like the dipping ,swirly camo would look good . If you were o find a light flexible fabric to do it with yeah, but most camo fabrics a quite heavy. If you were to use a heavy material ,you could lay it in peices like a sewing patten so it conforms to the shape . Link to post Share on other sites
Inventor Posted December 25, 2008 Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 If you were to use a heavy material ,you could lay it in peices like a sewing patten so it conforms to the shape. Or you could use a vacuum pump and a single piece of fabric... 14,7psi have a lot of force even over heavy fabrics. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted December 25, 2008 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2008 Or you could use a vacuum pump and a single piece of fabric... 14,7psi have a lot of force even over heavy fabrics. it would hold it down and stick it granted, but it would be full of folds if its not flexible enough to conform to the shape of the mask. Link to post Share on other sites
BlackHawkHarlequin Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 I really wanna try this out. If I did attempt this would it be possible to just make a mould out of clay, cover in mod roc and use plaster of paris for the bust? I'm not bothered about the mask conforming to the shape of my face. Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Samm Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 You can use anything for the bust pretty much, as you can see in the earlier pictures heroshark uses modelling clay on top of the plaster of paris of his head for the masks details. As long as it's covered in a non stick medium that you can remove the work from at the end. Why make a clay mould? It's not even so much about your face but the shape of your head. It's just excess wasted time, you already have your head made and ready! Link to post Share on other sites
BlackHawkHarlequin Posted January 6, 2009 Report Share Posted January 6, 2009 Yea makes sense I suppose, would vaselline be a suitable non-stick medium? Also (and I may sound like an idiot here ) do you pour in the plaster of paris into the mod-roc mould? Also Heroshark if can you give me a materials list detailing which cloth to use and what resin (is that what you use to coat the cloth?) to use it would be very much appreciated Also if I do decide to have go at making a mask I would want the finished product to be red in colour, am I right in saying that you add the colour pigment to the gelcoat? Sorry if this is long winded but it has certainly picqued my interest. Many thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Yea makes sense I suppose, would vaselline be a suitable non-stick medium? Also (and I may sound like an idiot here ) do you pour in the plaster of paris into the mod-roc mould? Also Heroshark if can you give me a materials list detailing which cloth to use and what resin (is that what you use to coat the cloth?) to use it would be very much appreciated Also if I do decide to have go at making a mask I would want the finished product to be red in colour, am I right in saying that you add the colour pigment to the gelcoat? Sorry if this is long winded but it has certainly picqued my interest. Many thanks. Hey there. As said you can make the mold how ever you wish. As long as it's sturdy enough to lay up on. A couple of things to keep in mind. More complicated shapes will be harder to layup ,You may end up with voids to fill. Never have your mold turn in on itself ,or the layed up mask will grab onto the mold .Unless your willing to dig the mold out of the layed up mask. For the release, use tin foil (shiny side up). Smooth it down, then apply a good smear of vasline .The areas where theres lots of crinkles especially, like the bridge of the nose. You can get various colours of gelcoat, and pigments to add to the resin. But don't ask me about that because I don't use it. Materials you will need for 1 mask. slow setting epoxy resin twill weave glass cloth 1meter square cut into 4 equal peices chopped stand matte 1meter square tear into small random shapes of varying sizes large brush shallow tray 2 measuring jugs rubber gloves goggles Heres a rough guide, to my method. It usually takes 30-60 mins depending on how complicated the mould is, and how many layers you use: Ready your work area .Have your cloth lined up. Bits of matte at hand. hardener & epoxy measured in to their jugs .Tray near your mold .Pour your epoxy & hardener in the tray, and stir well. Lay the first layer of cloth ,stipling the epoxy from the center out, shaping it to the mold. When the first layers well formed to the mold ,then do a matte layer wich you jigsaw together ,out of the ripped up bits. Carry on altenating ,cloth then matte. Keeping the brush well loaded at all times, and now and again stir the epoxy as you go. This video uses a different method but it may help. Good luck http://uk.youtube.com/watch?v=Fzbpno2DP-o Link to post Share on other sites
BlackHawkHarlequin Posted January 7, 2009 Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Thanks for that, great help. You mention hardener? Is that available from East Coast Fibreglass? Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted January 7, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2009 Thanks for that, great help. You mention hardener? Is that available from East Coast Fibreglass? Its included in the pack Link to post Share on other sites
BlackHawkHarlequin Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/stor...slow-p-147.html Is that the pack? Also... http://www.uniquescrapstore.com/search.php?t=modroc Would that be enough modroc for the mould? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
CapaciousZepher Posted January 8, 2009 Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 Heroshark is currently building me a mask based on his generic mold. Pics will be up once it's done. I'm super excited, it's going to be sweet. Cheers! - CapaciousZepher Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted January 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 8, 2009 http://www.ecfibreglasssupplies.co.uk/stor...slow-p-147.html Is that the pack? Also... http://www.uniquescrapstore.com/search.php?t=modroc Would that be enough modroc for the mould? Thanks. That'll be fine . This might help http://www.edcubberly.com/goalie-masks.html#HeadCast for the mold .I like to cast a bit of the neck too ,and cap off the bottom before I pour it .I find its always better to have more than what you need .Even if your just doing face mask ,because when you lay it up ,you need to go past where the edge of the mask will finish. You might even decide you want to make another with more coverage, then another, and another Heroshark is currently building me a mask based on his generic mold. Pics will be up once it's done. I'm super excited, it's going to be sweet. Cheers! - CapaciousZepher I'll do my best Link to post Share on other sites
BlackHawkHarlequin Posted January 10, 2009 Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Me again Would you say that this plaster of paris will be good enough? http://www.greatart.co.uk/FINESTMODELLINGP...IS2-plaster.htm Also if I decided to do the project in stages how long would the plaster mould keep for? Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
heroshark Posted January 10, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2009 Me again Would you say that this plaster of paris will be good enough? http://www.greatart.co.uk/FINESTMODELLINGP...IS2-plaster.htm Also if I decided to do the project in stages how long would the plaster mould keep for? Thanks. that'll do ya. The mold will keep for years Link to post Share on other sites
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