renegadecow Posted October 2, 2010 Report Share Posted October 2, 2010 Never got to install one in mine myself, but remembering from other people's experience, they add extra shims. And as any gas gun with a floating valve/npas system, use the heaviest bb's you're allowed at the site and comfortable in using. These guns don't follow the same fps curve with respect to bb weight like AEG's or NBB's; you'll find that your joules actually increase dramatically as you go with heavier rounds. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JColt Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) Just picked myself up a WE M4 CQBR and im a little confused. It came with a CO2 mag...im assuming it can also accept green gas mags right? Â Also, how do i ascertain which version i have to order the correct NPAS kit, if it helps it has NO trades, white markings on th RIS and a LE stock. (Bought from eliteessex) Â EDIT - just had another go with it and it fires a round AS i cock the gun and then nothing. It doesn't work if i cock it unloaded, place the mag in and then press the bolt release either, just get a click. Any help? Â I've split the gun and the cocked the hammer and yes the little nub in the magwell does retract. It DOESN'T however retract when cocking the gun when it is all together, and cocking the gun feels very tough. Any assistance is great. Edited October 7, 2010 by JColt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JColt Posted October 7, 2010 Report Share Posted October 7, 2010 (edited) Can't edit.... Â What i meant on the last paragraph is that when cocked the gun just clicks and the nub in the magwell does not come back into the magwell UNLESS the receiver is split. Could there be something catching hence when i pull on the charging handle with the mag in its firing as something cant return into place? Â This ONLY occurs when the rear pin is pushed in. If i hold the halves together with my hands the nub pops out fine (and using the gun it cycles perfectly, bolt locks back on empty etc), the second i place the pin in...it doesn't work. Edited October 7, 2010 by JColt Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JColt Posted October 8, 2010 Report Share Posted October 8, 2010 Again can't edit...i've returned it to the shop for them to look at and either fix/replace. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 Never heard of that problem before, but from what you described the valve knocker binds against its top cover when the bolt carrier pushes it down (if the two receiver halves are put together)? Either way, good call in sending it back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
JColt Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 That's what i assumed but it's one of those impossible problems as you can't see whats going on inside when the reciever halves are closed. Â Ah well, the shop said they'll fix or replace it and if an NPAS kit can be obtained before the work is done they'll fit it for me free of charge Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted October 9, 2010 Report Share Posted October 9, 2010 the piece that actuates part #66 is worn so the hammer needs to go all the way back for it to trip part #66 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wraithxt1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 So it's been over a year since I've owned a WE M4. I'm looking to sell my GHK AK and re build my GBB M16 kit. Does anyone have information on how the WE M16 series has improved since the V3 release? Are there still magazing leaking issues? Is the WE still worth buying or are there better replicas now? Â It's also worth noting that I will be playing in Japan, so I need to keep it under 320 FPS. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 The new mags are leak free. So as long as what you get is new stock then you're good. 134a which is the only gas you could get in Japan should be enough to lower the output within limits, but your recoil and rof will be less so you might want to put in a lighter recoil spring. As for worthiness, it will always come into debate. The VFC and G&P WOC-X come close to the WE price range and the AGM and JG are even cheaper. But they're of the WA system so it boils down to which one you're more comfortable in using. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wraithxt1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 I live on a US Military base so I have access to propane. My experience with the WE system hasnt been great, between mag leak issues, bolt not locking back and full auto not being a viable option. So you're telling me its better at this point? Â The question I forgot to ask is about a three round burst adaptor. I'd like to get it as close to my current service weapon (M16A4) as humanly possible, are there any decent burst kits for the WE out, or just the G and P? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 If you're going to use propane, you'd need to restrict the valve yourself (several DIY methods exist) or get one of the aftermarket adjustable nozzles. Leaks have been resolved, bolt lock could still be an issue. While the bolt stop lever is already of a higher grade steel, there's still the occurrence of the bolt carrier eventually getting worn out. This is fixed by filing the ledge where the bolt stop locks. Some have gone as far as welding a piece of higher grade steel on the area as a more permanent fix. The 3 round burst can't be helped as it's not available for the WE. RA-Tech make one for the WA platform and a cheaper ACM copy exists but haven't read on reliability of either. If the burst function is crucial for you, then you have no choice but go with a WA system. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
wraithxt1 Posted October 19, 2010 Report Share Posted October 19, 2010 Thanks Cow, I was hoping to stick with the WE system since it's what I've used in the past, but it looks like I'll have to go to the dark side for my next loadout =( Quote Link to post Share on other sites
FalconGroup6 Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 Yea the mag leaking issue has mostly been resolved on the newer WE models but not 100%. Â There are many threads on how to fix the leaky mag issue if u run into the problem. Â If ur gonna run Propane then u would have to pick up a NPAS in order to keep ur FPS within regulation for fields. Â Personally i love WE rifles and have no problem saying so. Â Unfortunately like cow stated there is no 3 round burst kit currently available for WE but ya never know what the future can hold. Â Id recommend going with another WE because im a huge fan and prefer their rifles, but to each his own. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 (edited) Well nobody can give an 100% guarantee that the mags will come leak free, but last time i ordered 5 M4 mags they ALL came leak free and still are leak free. You CAN get a lemon but they're light years away from the first generation of mags. Â I still have 2 first gen m4 mags, one surprisingly enough is the best mag i have the other well .... it was blown to pieces and made some booboos in me Edited October 21, 2010 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 OUCH! I'm starting to worry about my stack of early GG mags; were you using funny propellant or did you leave it in a hot car maybe?  I've read most of the mag sealing articles, but I still have no idea how to fix four of mine that leak from the top main seal. The only way to get 100% is to buy from a physical store and make them test each mag before you buy it, or at least find a shop that will let you exchange leaky mags.  I just got my 3rd NPAS in the mail from Ehobby; there are sharp steel shavings protruding from the inner edges of the valve that I'll be sure to remove before use. It's the newer 4-spoke version, so here's hoping that it can last through Saturday's game without snapping (I've broke a stock CO2 nozzle, a 3-spoke CO2 NPAS, and a black TSC nozzle in this gun). I've recently replaced all the O-rings and reshaped the barrel seal; it's cycling smoother than it ever has.  V3 lower, bolt carrier, selector switch, charging handle, bolt catch, and nozzle kit on V1 M4 RA-Tech NPAS, inner barrel, trigger, firing pin, Stinger hopup TSC sear, hammer, bolt catch plates, part #66, outer firing pin assembly    I need to eat a little crow regarding Slip2000 EWL; it WAS recommended to me by the guys at BBA and it did exactly as the manufacturer claimed: it's awesome smooth high-performance long-lasting dirt-repelling lube. OTOH one day my M4 started bogging down, and when I took it apart the funky o-ring on the guide rod was noticeably larger than the fresh one I had in my bag of spares. DO NOT use it near rubber seals unless you want them to swell up like balloons.  I wonder if THAT would fix my leaky mags? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
danielsilva Posted October 21, 2010 Report Share Posted October 21, 2010 (edited) OUCH! I'm starting to worry about my stack of early GG mags; were you using funny propellant or did you leave it in a hot car maybe?  I was using Guarder Powerful Gas ( which looking at my chrono readings puts it at the same power as ET-1600 ). One minute i was filling the mag the other i had my ears buzzing and had mag bits EVERYWHERE! Which of course made me check if i had all my body parts in the same place as before I posted this before but ...   So if you have a Gen 1 mag, DO NOT fill with anything stronger than Green Gas  I make extensive use of CO2 on my M16 ( either from the mags or from external rig ) and my 4 prong Ra-Tech valve with the tip sanded and with the rubber seal mod, is still working after many thousand rounds. Edited October 21, 2010 by danielsilva Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 If you have that very faint leak from the top where the gas normally comes out, and your main o-ring is intact, chances are the forward sealing o-ring has shrunk or has some kind of damage on it. Since this o-ring is kinda small and has an even smaller ledge to hold on to, I find liquid sealants to have little effect. For this I wrap about 4" worth of half the width of ptfe tape (using full width may be too thick). Just wrap it around paying attention to the orientation of rotation when you tighten the valve back in so the tape doesn't undo itself. Pack the tape tightly mostly forwards of the o-ring and a couple turns on the o-ring itself. Basically you're making the tape into a kind of spacer so the o-ring seals tightly against the ledge in the mag. Do not get any of the tape inside the valve opening because the pressure from a shot will unravel the tape. On one of my mags I've replaced the o-ring (torn) entirely with ptfe tape and seems to work just as well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 if you think all of the orings on the mag valves are in working order. then another possible source of leak is the metal square insert hiding below the feed lip and rubber seal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kojak Posted October 22, 2010 Report Share Posted October 22, 2010 OK; I remember your mag now. FYI, AEX San Diego showed me a CO2 mag that they said exploded right on their workbench, at room temperature! Thanks for the tips on the mags; got a list of O-ring sizes? I've used a variety pack in the past, but my local hardware stores sells the better o-rings individually wrapped in hundreds of sizes. Â Does anyone else have excessive friction between the large O-ring on the nozzle and the brass chamber with the NPAS? The gun is working fine but just seems really tight, and I've actually polished the inside of the brass chamber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinTurboCH Posted October 23, 2010 Report Share Posted October 23, 2010 I've had a quick look and used the search button, but I can't go through 341 pages to find the answer to this. Â Does anyone know of a URX style front end that will fit my WE M4? I've had it a fair while now and want to play with the externals as I'm getting bored of the current layout. Â Thanks guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted October 24, 2010 Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 G&P URX fits like a dream, but you need to buy the tools for it, they cost a ekstra 50 USD. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
TwinTurboCH Posted October 24, 2010 Report Share Posted October 24, 2010 Thanks man, much appreciated. Is that the one that is listed in most places as being for WA GBB's? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted October 25, 2010 Report Share Posted October 25, 2010 I have only fitted a AEG version, no problems. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Deltacor Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 (edited) Does anyone know where to buy part 68 in the UK? Â or instead of that does the real steal ones work? Edited October 30, 2010 by Deltacor Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trdsupragt Posted October 30, 2010 Report Share Posted October 30, 2010 Do you guys know of any retailer that stocks enough parts for me to build a second complete upper receiver? I've already got an upper receiver host, but no parts. Oh and if it's worth mentioning, the receiver was from the V1 days. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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