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KJW M4

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Success! A standard AR15 trigger spring will infact work and does increase the trigger pull and what feels like the crispness of the trigger reset. Only issues I can say is that you will need to noodle around with the trigger once installed so the hammer spring can fill the groove to keep the trigger pin in place. Otherwise it works!

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Success! A standard AR15 trigger spring will infact work and does increase the trigger pull and what feels like the crispness of the trigger reset. Only issues I can say is that you will need to noodle around with the trigger once installed so the hammer spring can fill the groove to keep the trigger pin in place. Otherwise it works!

Have you compared the trigger pull/break to a real steel ar15 yet?  How similar are they?

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I do not own a RS AR-15, but from memory the RS has the tougher pull. This is because the disconector and hammer spring are still KJW. I didnt put the diconector and hammer spring in because I thought it would interfer with the gas efficency and function of the GBB. It is a difference though :) from memory I say it feels along the lines of glock pull weight which I hear is around 5.5lbs. Though I dont have the tool to see how the weight on my M4 is.

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Hoping to get my speed below 300-330 for indoor games. ><.down to the last spacer.

It's totally possible. I had mine shooting at 280ish w/ a 25g for an indoor game recently.

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It's totally possible. I had mine shooting at 280ish w/ a 25g for an indoor game recently.

 

Yeah. with .25s I can get below or run duster gas. But they chrono by .2s. 

 

Been running the V1+ and have throughly enjoyed it. Recoil isn't as heavy as the V2+ bolt but it is snappy and has an interesting feel to it.

 

Discovered why my bolt catch on empty wasn't working anymore on the V2 bolt. The section where the bolt catch hits on the bolt is worn down. Causing it to slip.

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The description says for AEGs.

Yes. I know that but was wondering if anyone had any idea if there are any AEG triggers that work on GBBR triggers.

I figured the trigger section would be relatively the same to some extent.

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Ahhh. Bummer. I figured as much given the way trigger mechanics are different. Was hopeful the trigger itself would be interchangeable. 
Thanks Shane. :)

I wonder what trigger parts are out there for the KJ M4.

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After testing my new V1+ BCG last Saturday, some of my mags seems not kicking enough or not released enough gas when I pulled the trigger. But when I pushed the mag up into the magwell and hold it with my hand, seems like I got better strike. But when I let go, the kicking reduced.

 

 

 

 

Well last Sunday I decided to disassembly all my 9 mags and let the O-rings, seals and the valves sited in silicon oil for a day. After cleaning all the dirt and put everything back together, all my 9 mags works like brand new again without hold them with my hand. Better kicked and I can feel the recoil increased. I attach a couple pictures of everything I remove out of the mags. BTW, these mags are very easy to disassembly and reassembly. Cheer :)

 

post-82346-0-31463300-1365621529_thumb.jpg

 

post-82346-0-69803000-1365621914_thumb.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

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I gotta punch out hte pins on mine and make sure there is grease on the o-ring seals on the valves.
Also, anyone have the gas of the fill stem o-ring coming loose or breaking? I gotta get replacements. Trying to find them locally.
Hopefully they're not proprietary sizes. (Anyone know what size it is?).

I think I snapped the stem on one too. :(.

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So I was reading back on how to remove the buffer stock. I've run into an issue.
A. I think the hex screw on the bottom of my buffer tube is slightly stripped. And the end cap is really really tight / not budging at all. Is there a specific tool to remove this / a good way to remove it. Buter knife doesn't seem like a safe idea...

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@Kireru- Nice!! Very nice!

I now have to go with a similar build, my Noveske 18" outer barrel isn't taking at all so far.

I got in a new Falcon 509mm inner today and some Falcon hop rubbers, and the BBs act like there's hop-up while the hop dial isn't "on". I think the loading nozzle is mashing the BBs through the hop rubber? I switched back to the KJW stock outer, but with the Falcon inner and bucking and everything returned as it should be, but now I have to get a suppressor to cover the inner. I do plan on taking the inner down a bit though, too.

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@Kireru- Nice!! Very nice!

 

I now have to go with a similar build, my Noveske 18" outer barrel isn't taking at all so far.

 

I got in a new Falcon 509mm inner today and some Falcon hop rubbers, and the BBs act like there's hop-up while the hop dial isn't "on". I think the loading nozzle is mashing the BBs through the hop rubber? I switched back to the KJW stock outer, but with the Falcon inner and bucking and everything returned as it should be, but now I have to get a suppressor to cover the inner. I do plan on taking the inner down a bit though, too.

Thank you Thank you... Getting the B&T Rotex silencer in that little front took some time and dremel. Overall i'm very pleased with how it turned out.

Regarding the hopup, i have a Madbull CQB outer barrel installed and i noticed my hopup didnt react at all when turning the dial.

 

I found out that when the outer barrel base(two piece barrel) when installed on the upper, that the inner barrel had about 0.5-1mm nudge space towards the inner and that had alot to say if the hopup arm had optimal contact on the rubber or not.

 

I placed a small pin on the side of the outer barrel in the grooves where the hopup chamber inserts, to push the hopup chamber a little bit more towards the upper. Thus making the arm get full contact on the rubber. Havnt shot it yet to see if it made that much of a difference, will in a short while though. But with that spacer and small nudge on the inner barrel/hopup chamber, a visual check did show a more significant change in the hopup rubber

Edited by Kireru

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Hmm spacer didnt do the biggest difference. I'm very sure the little nudge has something to do with the arm having a good contact surface on the hopup rubber or not. In any case, BBs drop fast, so having one of the tech guys do a TDC mod on it...thanks to the fine people here at the forum sharing knowledge on how to.

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Ok guys - i had the TDC mod made and it didnt work...(hold on) when i just dropped in the Madbull outer barrel. The little nudge/wiggle space the inner barrel had, did have an effect wether the hopup arm touched the hopup rubber or not. By adding a little spacer (small piece of rubberband) the inner barrel/hopup chamber did indeed get a better contact with the hopup arm, thus making the TDC mod perfect.

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Way to save the booty, ha ha.

I just picked up a 8.25" mock suppressor to be shrouded by the 13" VTAC rail, and to cover her exposed inner. I have to cut down the Falcon inner about 2", thus making it 18" (450mm-ish), which is alright, got a decent pipe-cutter.

I think I might like this suppressor look/build more than the Noveske 18" SPR outer. Seeing your KJW above kinda put the nail in the coffin on the decision for me, ha ha. :D

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Upon purchasing my suppressor to cover an exposed inner, I can't get the stupid flash hider brass sleeve off the stock outer barrel. Boiled it, took a lighter to it. Any more suggestions?

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Usually they are a tight fit - screwing it on the outer barrel or similar and then try counter twisting it off, might work.

Edited by Kireru

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A propane torch made short work of the adhesive on the flash hider and outer barrel, heh heh.

I'm good to go, though my hop is silly now. The dial now "clicks". Time for a TDC mod. ;)

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