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WE G39C GBB

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You got a document you can put online for us G39 owners to print, for the mag? :)

 

After a UPS mistake my scope/handle should arrive tomorrow and i just ordered the stock wich also could arrive tomorrow (i just love the speed of fedex) or monday

Edited by Riko

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$6 for a aluminium sticker textured to fit in with the receiver. Not really much to ask.

 

That saying, alot of AEG G36c users would probably be interested in this item.

Edited by LordElpus

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Right then, just had some fun with my G39C along with a chrono.

 

2 mags, both fully gassed up with propane, one warm one coldish. (mild more than anything)

NPAS installed.

 

Warm mag (approx 20c room temp):

 

390

356

332

325

328

354

326

335

316

339

316

328

309

310

309

329

 

Cold mag (kinda, about 14c):

 

366

337

345

356

336

328

328(?)

338

338(?)

298

319

316

307 (chrono dies.)

 

Note, the result in bold are suspect as my chrono started to run low then died. Really should charge it more often.

Some shots did not register also.

 

So what have I learned here?

Seemingly, the less gas in mag gets better consistency over time.

First shot in a full gassed mag is overly powerful (no surprise).

The mag lips are not speedloader friendly.

The mag takes about 10-12 seconds to full fill, may wish to limit this to 8 from empty to avoid a overpowered first shot.

 

After my chrono test, keeping in mind both mags had 30 rounds expelled in semi auto, I reloaded them both (no extra gas) and put them to auto.

First mag (warm), no sign of cool down till the last few rounds. Oddly, it fired about 15 BB`s fine, 5-6 fell short (underpowered) then the remaining fired fine again.

Dont know why it did that.

Second mag, 29 rounds fired perfectly.

However the bolt locked back when there was still one BB in the feed lips. Released the bolt, fired and locked back again fine.

Finally, reloaded the first mag again with what BB`s I had left in the loader (10-12), all fired fine again apart from the last. Which again, the bolt locked back with the BB sat in the feed lips.

 

So bit premature bolt catching going on with the last BB but hey its reliable!

Plus I find it kinda cool needing to check the breach to see if its clear but thats just me.

 

Somewhere in between that lot I did a quick accuracy test.

0.2BB`s (I generally use .25`s) and it was overhopping. Couldn't adjust at the time because I didn't have a tool on me to move the hop. (still bloody tough)

On the more useful side, apart from overhopping they went very straight and maybe had a /slight/ right curve at longer range (no figures sorry, just a guesstimate at best).

 

Overall, Im impressed once again by this GBBR.

Cant wait for sunday to skirmish it, with 2 mags. Best bring the loading tool with me.

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*Also, don't know if this is true of the RS (and/or if this has been mentioned already, I'll go back and read to check), but the selector will *not* allow you to go into the "safe" setting w/o first pulling the charging handle all the way back (to cock the hammer). This may be a carry-over from WE's M4 as they used a very similar fire-control-group. Anyone that knows for sure (and I mean definitively, not "I *read* about it on such and such forum or article" I'm talking someone who's handled the real thing) please feel free to chime in.

 

This is the first of a series of official H&K G36 instruction videos on youtube:

 

 

You will find depicted all the handling procedures, but beware the eurotrash techno music :P

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It will not be a good idea to cock the hammer when the selector is in save position :waggle: , unlike it is shown in the video.

WE only uses a modified M4 Trigger Group. More realistic will be a Trigger mechanism like the upcoming SRC G36.

SRC made a copy of the RS-Version and added a valve striker.:) In save position you can cock the hammer like the RS- G36

Edited by DuMichAuch

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It will not be a good idea to cock the hammer when the selector is in save position :waggle: , unlike it is shown in the video.

WE only uses a modified M4 Trigger Group. More realistic will be a Trigger mechanism like the upcoming SRC G36.

SRC made a copy of the RS-Version and added a valve striker.:) In save position you can cock the hammer like the RS- G36

 

it may be unrealistic to use the m4 trigger mech, but you don't see it and the replacement and upgrade parts are already available. With the M4 trigger mech, you can't put it into safe without the hammer already being cocked

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I saw in another website where the c version is now available locally in my country. The price initially caught my eye until I realized that most of the external furniture is polymer. I wonder how durable it will be for skirmishing...and yes I am hoping WE comes ups with a K version.

As some else said, the real steel is made of polymer. You'll find that polymer is is not like ABS- ABS plastic is brittle and can (in relative terms) easily snap. Polymer is actually more durable that metal because you'll have difficulty denting it- I don't even think it's possibel to snap it. Metal will dent when hit without too much trouble. Monkey metal will snap.

 

I have an Areas TAVOR which (as per real steel) is mainly polymer and I have definitely found it to be more durable than metal.

 

The fact that WE are using Polymer as opposed to ABS will largely explain why the rifle is so solid. I'm Waiting for mine in the post!

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Just to make things clear, "polymer" simply means plastic (technically anything built up with chains of repeating molecules) be it ABS, PVC, polycarbonate, nylon etc. I don't think any official word has been put out regarding what polymer the WE G39 is made of, but from the looks of it its fiber reinforced nylon.

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Just to make things clear, "polymer" simply means plastic (technically anything built up with chains of repeating molecules) be it ABS, PVC, polycarbonate, nylon etc. I don't think any official word has been put out regarding what polymer the WE G39 is made of, but from the looks of it its fiber reinforced nylon.

Absolutely right. I meant to describe Nylon Polymer. The WE G39C is made of Nylon Polymer- as per real steel.

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It will not be a good idea to cock the hammer when the selector is in save position :waggle: , unlike it is shown in the video.

WE only uses a modified M4 Trigger Group. More realistic will be a Trigger mechanism like the upcoming SRC G36.

SRC made a copy of the RS-Version and added a valve striker.:) In save position you can cock the hammer like the RS- G36

 

upcoming?

 

it is due to release in 2010 and its already November....you think they will get released by the end of this year?....

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upcoming?

 

it is due to release in 2010 and its already November....you think they will get released by the end of this year?....

 

Give them a chance, it's only the 5th of November...

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Absolutely right. I meant to describe Nylon Polymer. The WE G39C is made of Nylon Polymer- as per real steel.

 

Not really, although both are made from FRP's they have different compositions. Do you really think that you would only pay $200 for a replica made of quality carbon fiber reinforced nylon ?

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Not really, although both are made from FRP's they have different compositions. Do you really think that you would only pay $200 for a replica made of quality carbon fiber reinforced nylon ?

Having handled a SL8 (Civilian G36) I can safely tell you guys that non of the airsoft polymer are actually as durable as the H&K ones. They might feel similiar, but if you drop it in sub zero temperature it will crack. and break.

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Skirmished mine today, quite easily skirmish-able with 2 mags.

No more than 8C all day and it worked fine with semi, no problems at all.

Had a few bursts of auto with no problems also, doubt a prolonged mag dump would last long though.

 

Accuracy with the stock bucking and 0.25 BB`s is very good, with the hop set right it has a very straight & flat trajectory.

Might be improved with a firefly bucking but I dont really see the need.

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Having handled a SL8 (Civilian G36) I can safely tell you guys that non of the airsoft polymer are actually as durable as the H&K ones. They might feel similiar, but if you drop it in sub zero temperature it will crack. and break.

That is due to airsoft ones being only reinforced for about 0.5/1mm thick on the outside, the inside is pretty much still abs.

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This is the one linked at the news page:

http://www.intrudershop.com/mmc/aug/WEG36C/G36BULLET-V2.PDF

from here:

http://www.arms-cool.net/forum/thread-74625-1-1.html

You might want to adjust the opacity a bit as they stand out way too much.

 

I printed em and here are the results.............:)

 

 

 

 

 

 

Some pics of how my WE G39c looks now, like a fullsized "G36"

 

Next to my WE Scar (got a sniper bipod for it as well, now I got no more space left for extra furniture lol :wave: )

G36%20a.JPG

 

G36%20c.jpg

G36%20e.JPG

G36%20d.JPG

 

luv the magazine details :)

G36%20f.JPG

 

the logo is a perfect fit on the gun itself, when attached it really looks like its one with the gun!

But since it states "G36c" and mine is a "G36" I added glued a piece of paper on it, its a bit obvious I know :)

logo%20aangepast.JPG

 

Now waiting for my red dot - laser attachement (and greengas!!)....so more pics will follow.

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