Jump to content
-Clover-

WE G39C GBB

Recommended Posts

I notice today when tried to dump my mag gas using the magwell and trigger grip (with the pin holding together) the hammer failed to dump the gas. This led me to suspect my hammer spring is too weak. Question, is the WE Hammer spring the same as Real Steel Ar-15 Spring? Is the WA Hammer Spring compatiable?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a heads up for you guys been having trouble with range bbs droping and not getting anywhere near what i used to be able to hit no matter how much hop I added or took off. Was going to order a new hop rubber so I thought I would have ago at removing the old one stripped it down to find that the nub in the hop unit wasnt seated correctly under the leaver and looks like this might have a been the problem for the lack of range. While I was there removed the bucking and cleaned it as it was very heavley coated in silcon spray from the gases etc Hoping this has solved my problem. So if ur lacking range or accuracey is all over the place check the seating of ur nub before any thing else.

 

On another note my g39 has decided it doesnt like locking back on the last round. It manualy locks back on the last round and will lock back is gun is tilted slightly but if level and firing it wont lock back. Has any one else had this problem? If so can you help me out?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Anyone have any idea if you can get a new shell for the mags? Just lost the base plate for mine.

If it's just the base plate, and it's probably a stupid idea, would one from an AEG fit ?

 

I know this possibly isn't the best place to ask but as it's a question specific to the gun. I was going to put a suppresor on mine, I know anything 14mm neg will fit but is there a "right" one ?

 

Thanks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I got my g39 c this week. I've attempter to remove the barrel nut. Tried allen key with extension, some heat with a micro torch on heat gun. I can get about 1 mm movement but that is it. did anyone else find they got a bit of play but bugger all else?

I'm concerned about rounding off the slots in the barrel nut as its only ally. I also assume its a regular" righty tighty lefty loosey" thread rather than the reverse thread of the flash hider?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thank, i'm turnining it correctly then, but for the love if itm it aint going anywhere. Its almost like there is a locking pin in there. Normally with threads once ther start moving they shouls be fine, but it just rotates my about 1 mm of movement. Its not like i'm some 3 stone weakling either :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, when the hairs on my arm are sizzling i've got it wrong :)

 

I'm using the heat gun acessory of my butane micro torch with wet cloth on the plastics and running the heat gun up around the barrel. Give that its alloy and hence a good heat dissipator I'll try a preheat with hot/ boiling water to get a bit of initial heat into it.

I'm aiming with the torch at the knurlled surface around the upper half of the nut, keeping to moving to avoid hot spots. I think I'll have another go this weekend.

 

Are they using thread lock on the nut or relying on tightening it up so tight that the alloy parts adhere to each other?

 

I'ts much easier working on car or motor cycle steel nuts, you just weld a blob of metal on to the nut and that usually works enough heat in :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
bagpuss! just give it some welly mate its not like that fragile cateram of yours :bleh:

Heh don't you start, swmbo called me at work saying she noticed a scratch on the side of my MR2. She waited until I got home before she told me she had also reversed it into the front wall, spend most of this evening layering up the paint to repair the gouges in the bumper.

Its a pitty there isn't a spanned to do the job. My c spanner I use for m4 barrel nuts levers on the body and I don't think an angle grinder spanner is quite the same spacing.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

woo hoo, cheers guys. This was my method - a bit of cloth over the plastics to provide a bit of a puffef the pour a kettle full of boiling water over the nut.This was then followed by several big doses of " shock unlock" lubricated freeze spray around the area then the gas microsortch on heat gun for 5 minutes. Don't use the naked flame as the freeze spray is ether. Then with a correct sized allen key, sloted in long end in, lay the gun on its back and rotate e nut towards me and give it a big FOAD, but smooth pull. Repeat this process a couple of times and once it moves it comes off with ease.

A little less threadlock on the reasemble. The barrel was reasinably clean but a good polish out with brasso made it come up a treat. Two slivers of plasti card either side of a black element h nub centralised it lovley, now there is a good range of movemement. As oers have said, the supplied nub is a bit of a beast.

 

 

I wonder if WE have a bulk load of thread lock that was near its used by date?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know what size the ball bearings on the selector switch are? one of mine has just made a bid for freedom.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bagpuss! just give it some welly mate its not like that fragile cateram of yours :bleh:

 

Well I took my barrel nut off the other day and only need a flat blade screw driver and some muscle behind it. Im pritty sure ive got a very very small c spanner in tool box that will fit not used it within the last 10 years so.

 

I found the hop nub to be pritty big but the slot it fits in to be even bigger. Im just trying to work out which hop rubber to buy but think ill take it and test it out first before I spend on a hop rubber that it might not need

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks to be a standard gbb pistol hop up rubber. One thing i noticed after re assembly that the feeding end of the rubber doesn't always seat properly in the lip of the chamber. A gentle run around the edge with a small flat bladed screwdriver gets it back to round rather than oval.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know what size the ball bearings on the selector switch are? one of mine has just made a bid for freedom.

 

you know the spring guide with bearing for aegs? the bearings in them are just about the same size.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Looks to be a standard gbb pistol hop up rubber. One thing i noticed after re assembly that the feeding end of the rubber doesn't always seat properly in the lip of the chamber. A gentle run around the edge with a small flat bladed screwdriver gets it back to round rather than oval.

 

Its a vsr hop style rubber so anything for a tm vsr or tm pistol will fit. Mine was really oilly and not sure if this was my problem so wiped the oil out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a note,

 

RA-Tech already have a prototype WE G36 Steel Carrier, currently they're looking whether its feasible to go into mass production for it. My suggestion, if you are using steel trigger, ask about the We G36 Steel Carrier. If there's enough people, hopefully we can get the steel carrier going.

 

 

As for the stutter in my case 3-4 pages back, I got the original parts, it's the firing pin itself being so worn.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone know what size the ball bearings on the selector switch are? one of mine has just made a bid for freedom.

In case anyone else looses their ball bearings the originals look to be 3mm and 2.5mm also work.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

ra.ssh5915@msa.hinet.net

 

This goes to the boss, Johnny

 

Thanks kullwarrior. :)

 

I sent an email, to let them know I'd be interested in getting a couple, if they do go into production.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.