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The practicality of "Stealth" and Green Precision BBs


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Hello All,

 

I took my SR25 out again yesterday and have a question around ammo.

 

A couple weeks back I had previously using it with .25s and getting good range, I was really enjoying it. It was the first time I had it back since having it upgraded to 400fps (on .2 BBs) and managed to get some nice long range hits with some luck and patience. 

 

I did notice a lot of deviation from shot to shot and put this down to the "light" .25s I was using. AS above, I took it out again yesterday with some .36s Madbull "sniper" ammo in green. The first thing I noticed when trying to zero my scope ....is that I can't see the damn things in flight! So much so, I was shooting nearby puddles in disbelief to check that something was coming out and I didn't have another issue with the rifle. I know the point of scope is for sighting and aiming, but I did rely on being able to see my white .25s so I could adjust my aim between shots. 

 

The .36s did help with shot consistency, when I could see them, and I'd try slightly lighter .3s in future, as long as they were white or otherwise more easily visible - but for more experienced DM and Snipers; how do you manage with your heavier ammo? Do you stay away from the black "Stealth" ammo and others of its ilk or is there a way to manage the near invisible rounds?

 

 

 

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I am not a DM myself but I what I did for a small period of time is adding Bioval .23 tan AND black in a bottle and mix them up. That way you can still see your bb's if its the tan ones but you can still be somewhat 'stealthy' with the black ones. I stopped using it since I only use .25 and .28 now.

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I avoid the green/black for that reason. Tan seems to be the best colour, which is a shame as it would be good to use the slightly heavier rounds. Never used to have a problem with the silver .43s back in the day, but probably wouldn't use them these days due to the hop contamination. If you're running at 400 then the .4s might be a bit much. SGM's are .3g and white, but probably a bit expensive. Guarder do a .28 in white, might be a slight improvement over .25s

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I think I'll have to go for .3s in white. I'd be interested in seeing how my 400 fps rifle handles with the slightly lighter ammo anyway.

 

I don't know if it helps, but ever tried zero'ing them on a white background ?

It won't help in the field, ofc.

Other than that, I use Green devil 'eggshell' or 'brighter than beige but darther than broken white' .30's

 

Yeah, I did just that - found something that contrasted or made movement. In the end I shot a few tin targets and used some mesh fencing to help zero the scope. It was for naught though, once I got into the field I just couldn't see where the shots were going and so making adjustments to my aim was next to impossible.

 

Thanks for all the hints guys!

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If the problem is zeroing the scope before a game, have you tried a colimator? they are not so expensive and make zeroing scopes and optics a breeze. unfortunatly, cheaper ones use a weak*albatross laser, so they are hard to see in daylight unless aimed against a black background, which makes hard to see, but visible.

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Zero wasn't so bad, just in combat I couldn't see where my shots were going. Closer shots (30m - 40m) were not too bad as I could trust it to hit more or less in the centre, but when it got windy or I was further out I just had no idea if I was aiming too high or too low.

 

I did have a laser fitted to my rifle on the second game, but it wasn't much use the ranges I needed it at. ^_^ My eyes are just no good at spotting these stealthy BBs in flight! Argh!

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Ok, didnt get the "while skirmishing" part, my bad ^_^ 

 

If you need to see the BBs to correct the shooting... well, then there is nothing to do, you see it, they will see it. maybe what you need is a change of playstyle, I mean, go back to white BBs to be able to see where they are landing but shoot your targets when they are not looking in your direction, much harder to play, but you get both of the requirements you need

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Absolutely. There is a lot I can still learn, but what I did like is that I can hit further out than most AEGs given the extra leeway given to DMR rifles. When moving up with my squad I could give quick, accurate and long range fire to help suppress an enemy -- all of which I could not do with those cursed green rounds haha :) 

 

Many thanks for your input though! 

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At 400 with 0.2gs, I wouldn't be using .36g, I'd be sticking to 0.25-0.3g.

 

I run 0.28g bbs in my G3a4 and that's firing at 400fps on the dot. Gets me laser accuracy at 60+m.

 

As for colouring, have you tried zeroing on paper with a vise? Do it at as far a distance as you can get (ideally 30-40m, but 10m would be more likely, I suspect?) and just zero your sights a tad higher than the grouping (at 10-30m).

Then go off and set your hop-up and hopefully that should work - it's a little bit of guesswork, but it might be ok.

 

Alternatively, mount a BFO torch with a tight beam to your rifle and turn it on when you zero - it'll make the bbs easier to see.

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Sometimes carry a midcap of black bb's with my AEG,  for special moments.

 

AEG has had some sound reduction work done to it.  Only really any good out to around 40-45m which is when bb's drop off.

 

Can't see them in flight,  even a heavy burst,  unless the target is skylining then sometimes i see them flying.

 

However the desired effect is targets don't see them coming,  or assume i am not firing at them (quiet AEG)  but beyond 40-45m pot luck on hitting something if theres a gentle breeze.

Can be handy but a pain to use.

 

:)

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I have to load around 12 white BBs first into the 110rd midcap,  so when i see white time to run away or swap a mag :) 

 

and i also have trouble telling if anything is coming out of barrel,  stuffed foam around the gearbox,  it works well enough for me not to be sure,  priceless when you bag players and they can't hear or see where your shooting from.

 

Stealth ammo is hard work,  but can be worth it in any set up.

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