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The Complete Tanaka Thread


The Chef

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Hello guys...my first post! :P

 

 

This new of those new japanese laws is bad indeed...I fell in love for the kar98 in november and now that I am soon to buy one...damn... :o

 

Anyway, happy to see that human craftmanship and cleverness always triumph on stoopid laws and strict nozzles.... :D

 

Just a noob question about the hop rubber: where I could find them?I'm not very practic with internet shops... ;)

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In no particular order, WGC, Redwolf, Guns N Guys, Den Trinity and UN Company are the most likely candidates for finding parts for Tanaka guns.

 

You could always ask a UK retailer to get some in for you. Most helpful I've found to date is Fire Support.

 

On an aside, chono'ed the G33 with the screw in nozzle attachment fitted, and it comes out bang on my site limit for bolties. I dread to think what it would be knocking out without that attached!

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It's no problem at all dude!

 

At the ranges I've tested so far (ten metres) it's pinpoint accurate, which is to be expected really, but it's also super consistent in terms of where the shot falls. Will get some pictures of groupings up on Sunday.

 

Here's hoping it performs as well at range!

 

(EDIT - For anyone looking for the 'PCS' nozzle system for K98 / G33s, tokyo-model.com.hk have them in stock at the moment.)

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Well, the hop's all over the place; that and the barrel need replacing by the looks of it. So far had about three hundred .29g SGM rounds through it, so the hop should have bedded in. Was getting rounds all over the place, spinning left etc.

 

Still very consistent power wise, just need to sort out the accuracy and I'll be happy!

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I assume this is a 2nd hand purchase? because if its new, send it back straight away (likewise if it was sold 2nd hand in working condition).

 

There is no way that will work without the correct bolt inside. You should be able to subsitute it with the correct pitch bolt (the dimensions of which I am unsure) if you are unable to source the correct part.

 

All you would need to do is file/grind the end of the bolt to a point to allow better gas flow.

 

 

Yours should have a bolt in like the pic, at the angle of yours, it doesnt appear to have the knurled screw bolt inside.

 

PCS.jpg

 

 

Just an update...

 

I have finished my first batch of extended nozzles (see the pic above for the restricted aluminium version). I also have some original bore extended (brass) ones completed and will get some tests done soonish. Initial firings have been successful... oh have they been successful. This is essential when fitting the BGS hop rubbers, or if you are experiencing hop inconsistency.

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yeah, they are all the same. thats if you can find one.

 

although thinking about it, I am not entirely sure what you mean? a regular M700 PCS, I thought thats what yours has anyway (apart from the missing bit).

 

do you mean a non-PCS bolt? because if so, then yes.

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Hello Ladies and Gents,

 

I just recieved my new (NIB!!) Tanaka Kar98K from Airsoftextreme in California over the christmas holidays. We chronoed it on 134A and recieve about a 330 fps average. I have seen the inside of the brass nozzle and it is indeed necked down considerably. (ps the hopeup unit came cracked from Tanaka :angry: )

 

 

My question revolves around the rear sight block. Does anyone know how to remove the rear sight? I need to remove it so that I can fit the new weaver scope mountI just purchased. I have the gun stripped down basically as far as possible, but I dont see how to remove it. The normal real steel gun uses a roll pin in the hole, but in the Tanaka the "pin" is part of the rear sight.

 

 

Please help me figure this out!

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Right...

 

To solve your nozzle woes, get an $18 replacement 'PCS' nozzle from Tokyo Model Company.

 

To remove the rear sight, you will need to get to the point where the top wood section is able to slide back and forth along the top of the rifle, but not come off; do this by loosening the forward sling attachment point.

 

Lift the slider part of the rear sight up, use a screwdriver or similar to push the springy metal under that down, then pull the adjustable bit towards the bolt, it should click out.

 

You can then move the wood part back and forth enough to reveal the screws at the base of the rear sight unit, front and back. You might have to attack them at a slight angle because of the wood, so take your time!

 

EDIT - P.S. Shame on you for even considering putting a weaver mount on a Kar98...

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