Raco9 Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 I wish someone would post a name or picture of a lube that works thats found on this side of the pond! <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Lowes carries it. in tool world, by the wd40. They call it TDL. I just picked some up. haven't tried it yet. Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 Hopefully I can find some of this stuff in HK. I'm going to have fun trying to translate "Dry-film Lubricant" with my shoddy cantonese though. Link to post Share on other sites
Fox_Starwing Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 Hmmm, I repair the A-10 warthog for the MD air guard, and we use moly b coating on a lot of different stuff, but ours is brush on. Is the stuff you are talking about in aerosol form? Or is it a grease like I use. Right now I use a pure silicon grease for bicycle gear shifters on my piston and cylinder, but I use systema gear grease on the gears. The systema stuff has the consistancy of runny snot, so I think it will stick around in the gearbox for quite a while. Is the moly b a better coating for the gears? Link to post Share on other sites
Joaz Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I got a spray can of Molycote D-321R Anti-Friction-Coating for testing. The valve of the spray can is designed to coat big parts and produces much waste for small parts like gears. I tried to coat some parts. Piston rails went fine (after polishing), but gears and piston did not. When you leave the coating without polishing on the gears, it'll sound terrible and will rub off after a short while. I didn't find a proper method to polish the little gear teeth, yet. For piston I had the problem that the o-ring went full of graphite & MoS2 and didn't create any good seal. I think this problem can be eliminated by doing more polishing. I've seen some greases that contain MoS2. That might be easier to apply and to the same stuff if the grease dries out. Maybe I'll check that. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I wouldn't use it on the piston (minus maybe the teeth). Maybe I'm missing something, or forgot something, but is this safe for the oring? Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 walmart sells liuquid wrench dry lubricant im considering pucking up a can or should i just get the homedepot stuff? http://www.gunk.com/CAT_L512.asp Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 walmart sells liuquid wrench dry lubricant im considering pucking up a can or should i just get the homedepot stuff? http://www.gunk.com/CAT_L512.asp <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The MSD I read on that, does not say anything about Molydeum Disulfide, but the can said something about Molbdeum, so I'm not sure if it is what we are looking for. I know the stuff at Grainger is. Link to post Share on other sites
Joaz Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 The MSD I read on that, does not say anything about Molydeum Disulfide, but the can said something about Molbdeum, so I'm not sure if it is what we are looking for. I know the stuff at Grainger is. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> This one has Boron Nitride and PTFE (Teflon) as dry lube. Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 heres the msds on it http://www.gunk.com/msds/L512.pdf its syas: Boron Nitride Isopropanol Liquefied Petroleum Gas n-Hexane Polytetrafluoroethylene Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted April 28, 2007 Report Share Posted April 28, 2007 I thought we determined the problem with the Teflon based stuff is that it creates a waxy film that flakes off to prevent dirt build up. So it would need to be reapplied often. The other stuff orginally talked about did not do it. I'd like to get my hands on a cheap gearbox (UTG or some ######) and test it with both lubes (one at a time) and see how they do. Link to post Share on other sites
sin415 Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 i just picked up a lubricating spray myself a few weeks ago at home depot when i was looking for some fine sandpaper i was intrigued by it because it works for metal and plastic [contains no oil or silicone] its called RZ-50 idk if anyone has heard of or tried it out before but its been working fine on my ksc glock 18c with no problems here's some faq's about it: Does RZ-50 contain silicone or graphite? NO! RZ-50 contains a PTFE polymer developed by DUPONT. Does RZ-50 leave stains? NO! RZ-50 will not stain wood, paint, metal or even FABRICS! How long will RZ-50 remain effective? Depending on the application and load, RZ-50 can be effective for up to 3 years. Is RZ-50 flammable? NO! The propellant is flammable, but will evaporate in a matter of seconds. RZ-50 is not combustible. Does RZ-50 dry out? NO! RZ-50 is a DRY FILM LUBRICANT. What is Non-Migrating? RZ-50, once applied, will not leach onto surrounding materials, or move from side to side, and will not leave the friction surface without lubrication. Does RZ-50 have an odor? NO! Does RZ-50 protect against rust and corrosion? YES! It can be applied to any clean metal surface and will resist moisture and chemicals causing corrosion or rust. Does RZ-50 conduct electricity? NO! RZ-50 can be used on electrical connections without fear of conductivity. (Always disconnect power during application.) Is RZ-50 a new product? YES... and NO... RZ-50 was developed by DUPONT to be used by NASA, the military and the auto industry, where precision lubricants were in demand. It is now available to the public. for more info: http://www.rz-50.com/multi.htm i havent used the lube for anything but my glock [slide rails and outer barrel] i throughly wiped down the slide rails of all the silicon lube and applied the spray and has been functioning just fine without any of the silicon lube residue that attracts dust. its been about 3 weeks now and around 350 rounds later with no complaints at all the barrels was the next thing i was thinking about the lube to viscosity is about the same as silicon but really does dry in seconds info from the website: RZ-50 DRY FILM LUBRICANT is a non-staining product that forms a slippery layer of translucent particles on rubber, wood, metal, nylon, epoxy, polypropylene, acrylic and phenolic resin surfaces. RZ-50 is an excellent lubricant that can withstand temperatures of up to 500 degrees F for extended periods of time. It is extremely effective in dusty conditions. RZ-50 is extremely stable and has a host of high-performance applications. It has the ability to stay where applied without migration to surrounding areas. RZ-50 was developed to possess a friction coefficient of .02 and will not attract contaminants, moisture or dirt. When applied, RZ-50 exhibits a remarkable, ball-bearing like surface that can last for up to 3 full years. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 So it's a teflon wax film according to what you posted. Now I'm wondering... as it said it will last up to 3 years..... that's quite interesting. when are you going to try it out? Link to post Share on other sites
Burke Posted April 30, 2007 Report Share Posted April 30, 2007 Ooo Im gettin that then. To homedepot i go. Link to post Share on other sites
500fps@50mtrs Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 I Found a UK seller of Molybdenum Disulfide dry lubricant. http://www.thegunshop.co.uk/reloaders-supplies/rsmoly.htm Just ordered some and I am going to rebuild my G3 with it this weekend. The gears in the old girl need replacing anyway so it wont matter if it all goes up in smoke . I will test the ROF before and after and post the results. Link to post Share on other sites
Docv400 Posted May 2, 2007 Report Share Posted May 2, 2007 Don't forget to thouroughly degrease all your parts before coating them. Heat the metal parts up with a heat gun, this helps to 'sweat' all oil/grease out of any porous parts, degrease again when cooled down. Link to post Share on other sites
500fps@50mtrs Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 Don't forget to thouroughly degrease all your parts before coating them. Heat the metal parts up with a heat gun, this helps to 'sweat' all oil/grease out of any porous parts, degrease again when cooled down. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Thanks doc! was going to clean and polish whole gearbox but didn't know the heating up trick. I was going to use engine degreaser (Gunk) then soap and water good bad? Link to post Share on other sites
Tommygunn Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 Use petrol, brush and bowl and remove any rubber parts/o-rings prior to washing. or good old Carbon Tetrachloride, but you risk cancer! Link to post Share on other sites
cire Posted May 3, 2007 Report Share Posted May 3, 2007 I'm sure throwing all the parts into a pot of boiling water will do a great job of degreasing everything. Throw a drop of detergent in there for good measure. Link to post Share on other sites
Shard Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Why is it such a pain in the *albartroth* to find the 321r in aerosol form I don't suppose anyone knows of a shop I can just head to and pick some up from ? Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 This stuff seems to be the only dry-film lubricant I can find in Hong Kong. Is it what I'm looking for? Link to post Share on other sites
500fps@50mtrs Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Whats the word on dry lube for the piston? Im thinking that it will make for a smooth consistent action but will it be airtight. Possibly dry lube the cylinder and a squirt of silicon for the O ring? Assuming that this stuff dries hard then a little wet stuff should slick over the top with no mudding or leaking? Anyway as soon as the stuff I ordered arrives I will try it out and see... Link to post Share on other sites
gorilla77 Posted May 4, 2007 Report Share Posted May 4, 2007 Guys, here's some moly' aerosol: http://www.cromwell.co.uk/static/publicati.../pages/1289.pdf Go here and use their search function to find the open gear oil: http://www.cromwell.co.uk/quicksearch type in SM8-500B as the search term, but there's no direct link to give you. It's £11. Shipping is £4.21 total £16.09 Link to post Share on other sites
Shard Posted May 5, 2007 Report Share Posted May 5, 2007 I might have found a UK supplier of the Molykote 321r, just sent an email enquiry, I'll post backup with the outcome. It might be of use to those interested in getting hold of some Link to post Share on other sites
gorilla77 Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 Ok Shard good idea- go for it matey Can never have enough research.. Do you think the open gear oil would suffice anyway? Link to post Share on other sites
Shard Posted May 6, 2007 Report Share Posted May 6, 2007 Not really sure mate, I'm new to the idea of this dry film lube myself as I've always used white lithium with satisfactory results. It does look like it contains the right stuff for the job from the info though Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.