Hedganian Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 As far as I know, no-one's tried that. I think they're hard to get hold of and would be too expensive - a lot of places have banned "high capacity" magazines so in those places they'd be illegal, even though you wanted it for airsoft use. I'd love to see someone try though. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 I'd love to try, I just don't think I have the proper tools. (dremel) Plus I live in California so I probably wouldn't be able to get ahold of one. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 That's exactly what I mean... Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted June 12, 2012 Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 But hicaps are useless rattly horrible things anyway, so ditch them and go midcaps. 80 rounds per mag is more than enough - remember the real steel only carries 30 - and having to count your ammo a bit more carefully and make your shots count instead of just hosing BBs all over the place will really improve your enjoyment of the game. Exactly... here is a video, that backs up your statement and shows how good the AUG platform is (this one has a CNC'd metal feed nipple).. Enjoy & Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 12, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 12, 2012 Not sure if that's sarcasm or not. My PC has apparently decide I don't want to see YouTube videos anymore, because the graphics drivers crash if I try to look at one. But if its not sarcastic, then thanks. Link to post Share on other sites
Stinky Posted June 13, 2012 Report Share Posted June 13, 2012 Aug, phantom, all airsoft internals upgraded or modified (bore up v.3 kit, AOE and teeth shaved, ported head, CA reinforced mechbox, polished all rails for moving parts etc). 460+ fps (.20). Steal full length barrel (passes through front receiver/gasblock) 650mm psg-1 tightbore, shimmed all the way to end in phantom kit for perfect alignment. Everything filed or filled to be tight and rattle free. Dynamat sound absorbing material around MB, but 170 spring rattles your jaw when firing anyway. Did not get the right paint for true multicam, but it seems fairly effective in Califonia foothills dry brush, tall meadow grass, and pine forests. Haven't played since 07 or 08, it is getting seriously out of shape. I cleaned and lubed it before storage but it proably needs a complete takedown after all this time. As i do that I will post pics of the mods and some short how too's with household items and cheap scraps that improve the performance and longevity of this AEG. Mine is a TM from around 2005, still rock solid after many hours (years ago) of woodland play, with a few falls and drops. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 TMs are rock solid, mine is at 8 years and going strong with stock internals and upgraded spring. I like the paintjob but the phantom kit is not for me. Still, nice work. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Aug, phantom, all airsoft internals upgraded or modified (bore up v.3 kit, AOE and teeth shaved, ported head, CA reinforced mechbox, polished all rails for moving parts etc). 460+ fps (.20). Steal full length barrel (passes through front receiver/gasblock) 650mm psg-1 tightbore, shimmed all the way to end in phantom kit for perfect alignment. Everything filed or filled to be tight and rattle free. Dynamat sound absorbing material around MB, but 170 spring rattles your jaw when firing anyway. Did not get the right paint for true multicam, but it seems fairly effective in Califonia foothills dry brush, tall meadow grass, and pine forests. Haven't played since 07 or 08, it is getting seriously out of shape. I cleaned and lubed it before storage but it proably needs a complete takedown after all this time. As i do that I will post pics of the mods and some short how too's with household items and cheap scraps that improve the performance and longevity of this AEG. Mine is a TM from around 2005, still rock solid after many hours (years ago) of woodland play, with a few falls and drops. ... Sorry, what's your question? I couldn't figure out that massive block of text with no paragraph breaks.... Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Not sure if that's sarcasm or not. My PC has apparently decide I don't want to see YouTube videos anymore, because the graphics drivers crash if I try to look at one. But if its not sarcastic, then thanks. Nah I was serious. In that game we had held the opponents for almost 2 hours in exactly the same gulley (the boundaries were super narrow). In that video, we switched round and had to attack, just like they had before. I only had 6 x 80 round TM lowcaps against dug in opponents with high caps.... as you can see (or in your case cannot), I was at the front and managed to shoot them up in only a few minutes..... thanks to the AUG's accuracy. I received little return fire, as I used cover and fired at only small parts of people that were exposed. CA AUG was only 312fps using 0.20g with all stock parts other than metal hop unit and feed nipple. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 If you stick a tightbore barrel in there it'll be even more accurate and you'll squeeze a few more FPS out of it too. Just be careful what kind of ammo you use, as some types have poor quality control and can cause jams with tight barrels. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Anyone know if/where I can find an HP H-Bar kit still? Everyone I know of is out of stock. Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 14, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Airsoft World claims to have them in stock. http://www.airsoftworld.net/hexagon-production-aug-h-bar-front-end.html Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted June 14, 2012 Report Share Posted June 14, 2012 Geez, for $160, might as well custom make one. I would pay half that for one, but not $160. Not after the reviews I've read. =/ Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 If you stick a tightbore barrel in there it'll be even more accurate and you'll squeeze a few more FPS out of it too. Just be careful what kind of ammo you use, as some types have poor quality control and can cause jams with tight barrels. I think there is a bit of a grey area here myself..... I believe it is not about bore diameter, but more about the tolerences and polish of the barrel. many cheap tight bores have low tolerences.... ie it says 6.03mm but maybe between 6.01 and 6.05mm along its length. This is where PDI barrels are the best. I only use a 6.05mm PDI in my tanaka m40a1 but it shoots brilliantly. Interestingly, PDI (on teh xfire website) syas their 6.01mm is for power and their 6.08mm is for accuracy. I guess pellets ride on a cushion of air down the barrel. The CA AUG 6.08mm barrel is fine for me and as the video proves; it's accurate enough considering the cheap bio 0.20g pellets I used. You have to bother to get 0.25g or heavier to see the effects of a good barrel imo. The main thing though with wanting accuracy is to get a well setup hop. That is the brain of the gun imo. I really cannot fault the CA AUG out of the box, other than the feed nipple that wears away. As long as you get a decent custom battery it has great ROF, range and accuracy. If it hits small parts of people, then its good enough for me. I think you can invest alot of money in AEG's and see little return. As already stated much is on the combo of parts and getting good airtight seals. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 15, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 Sorry, can't help you then. DId Boom Arms stop making their one? Good luck getting the specs to make your own. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 AFAIK everyone stopped making kits. I have the flash hider designed to spec, I had a custom one machined once but it ended up being a tad too small. Once I get that, the barrel should be easy, it's the bipod that I'll have trouble with. Anyway, trying to make an A3 rail. One step at a time. Link to post Share on other sites
Stinky Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 I love the Aug, I hate the 3 part front barrel/gas block mounting plate/internal outer barrel assembly, which then needs an aluminum tube to shim the freaking aeg barrel to this frankinstoneian contraption. The barrel should be one part and pass through the gas block then thread into it or attach with lugs or something. This can be accomplished at home, making the aeg inside the rifle replica much more accurate. Mine is as accurate as any sniper setup, every. Much more accurate then anything you have ever seen full auto, that is for sure. this is because of several mods, this solid steal internal outer barrel being one of them. I wont make a step by step guide to this because it is very advanced and can easily be botched by those not skilled at fabricating and model making. This is again for the experianced hobbiest. It is very precise and takes patient seting up and thinking through of how to accomplish 'making' things from scratch or modifying them. Those that have this skill can do this fairly easily, and will be able to figure out how from the example pictures. I can offer advice if anyone wants to do this, but as the tool set i had available and the shop i did this in are different then yours, it is really up to the individual to plan out this mod with materials and tools available, and then make it happen. The AEG barrel pictured is a 650mm PSG-1 tightbore, I cannot remember the manufacturer, might be Prometheus. It is inside a nearly perfectly straight section of steel pipe (no light gaps rolling it on perfectly flat machine shop floor), Cut the old plastic inner barrel and mounted the ends with the slots for the hop unit and tab for in the gas block/mounting plate at the correct spacing. Epoxy them in place. I still need to make a coller and threads for the part out the front for mine, but as its inside the phantom kit mock silencer I haven't bothered yet. The AEG barrel has about .5mm all around between it and the steel pipe, which is about right for shimming it into perfect alignment. I use masking tap wrapped around the AEG barrel to make it about a .01 mm gap, barrel slides in and out smoothly, and feels like it is only loose a hairs width. This way it can stay straight and be supported nearly its entire length. As well, the AEG barrel is supposed to move back and forth slightly on the spring inside the hop unit. This 2mm or so of movment makes it seat against the mechbox tighly. You need to retain this ability to slide or you will mash and most likely crack the hop unit between the MB and the AEG inner barrel as you install the mech box or barrel assembly. If this slide gets sticky your hop unit will take a beating and crack sooner rather then later. In the pictures you can see the plastic disks I use to shim the steel pipe to the inside of the phantom kit as well. Link to post Share on other sites
TerranCmdr Posted June 18, 2012 Report Share Posted June 18, 2012 Well, I got my SA-80 sling in today. I like it a lot, only took me a few minutes to figure it out. I tried it both on the left and right sling swivels, and it only really works on the left (normal) side. I can wear it both over my left or right shoulder, but as far as where the gun drops, it works best for me over the right shoulder. I can make it so the gun drops forward and just a little left, which works perfectly for my setup. The way the sling is designed is great, it keeps the gun very close to me whether the buckle is clasped or not. In short, SA-80 sling on an AUG = Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted June 19, 2012 Author Report Share Posted June 19, 2012 Well, it *WAS* designed for a bullpup rifle very similar in size to the AUG, so it's not surprising that it works well. However, I've found it to be - without doubt - the best sling for Every rifle I own. Sometimes you need to add the H&K style clips to get it to fit on small sling points, but that's no hassle. I've even used it on my L115 (AW338) and found it worked fine. Link to post Share on other sites
rockshark Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 I got another question about my AUG. Last skirm, I lost the the screw that holds the metal outer barrel in place. It's the M3x4 screw that goes in to part ST-39 to hold ST-36 in place. I can't remember if that screw had a flat end or a pointed end. Anyone who can help? Link to post Share on other sites
amateurstuntman Posted July 9, 2012 Report Share Posted July 9, 2012 It's a grub screw. From memory (I don't have an AUG any more) it is a 1.5mm allen headed grub screw with a conical point on the end with a very slight dent in the point. Hope that helps Link to post Share on other sites
Hedganian Posted July 10, 2012 Author Report Share Posted July 10, 2012 Stunt is correct, as far as I remember - it's been a while since I've had the AUGs out of the box, sadly. You should be able to pick up something suitable for a good hardware supplier, Maplin, or similar... Link to post Share on other sites
scotsman15 Posted July 16, 2012 Report Share Posted July 16, 2012 Hello everyone. My first post in here. I have been lurking around for some time, but never had much call to post. Now I can officially say, I NEED YOUR HEELLLLLLPPPPPPP!!!!! Here is the question: I have a customer with a chewed cut-off lever. Does the CA AUG use the standard v3 cut-off lever? I want to be sure because the AUG's current lever has a shaft sticking out at 90deg, which obviously is not standard on the V3 lever. Thoughts? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Jibbity Posted July 26, 2012 Report Share Posted July 26, 2012 JG uses a standard V3 cutoff lever, but I have never opened a CA. I have been experimenting with hop up modifications and grew weary of pulling the barrel assembly every time. It was particularly painful with the custom rails attached to the upper... Requires the removal of the rods that push back the hop up cover, but they just screw out. Other than that just a bit of file work. It saves a ton of time getting the hop and barrel in and out. Link to post Share on other sites
hawaiianjuggernaut Posted August 15, 2012 Report Share Posted August 15, 2012 Hey guys, I just finished some work on my TM AUG. And (not surprisingly) its not feeding. I have a G&P metal hop unit, Madbull bucking with fishbone spacer and 13:1 gears with a delayer. I am not sure why it isnt feeding. They just seem to fall out of the barrel. Semi works here and there, its just full auto that is screwing up all the time. Link to post Share on other sites
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