Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Shriven

AEG Sniper Thread

Recommended Posts

Barrel choice is ultimately up to you. But at such high FPS, I'd like to suggest you keep to a 6.03, or my personal choice, a 6.05. If you've had good results with a 6.01 though, don't let me stop you.

 

A ported cylinder would useually be a good idea with a carbine length barrel, but seeing as you're useing .4g bbs, it might not help. Regular cylinder portings and the like kinda go out the window when you get the FPS up high, and use different ammo weights as well. Trial and error is the best option. I guess if you can afford a new front end, you can afford the $15 for a new cylinder.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

You should be able to keep performance close to what it is now. I wouldn't be suprised if there was a 10-20fps drop. I wouldn't expect anything more than that. Range shouldn't decrease any, and accuracy could well increase or decrease. It's hard to say. That would depend as much on the bore of the barrel as the length of it anyway.

Edit: And of course the quality of the barrel makes a big difference to accuracy. There's many factors. I wouldn't like to pin accuracy increase or decrease purely on the barrel length, that would be unfair.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Alright, but would their be a performance decrease in the range and accuracy category? Or is that all hopup related unless of course I go super stubby.

 

You will probably find your accuracy will increase and the range will drop, but not by any great margin to worry about.

 

If you go super stubby you will lose range, accuracy and power, lots of it, but you will gain noise, absalute minimum for an accurised AEG is a 363mm barrel, Ive found anywhere between 400 and 450 to be optimum in my setups.

 

 

 

If it was me I'd short stroke it by 1 or 2 teeth and re boost the spring tension with a spacer the same thickness as the teeth you removed, I'd probably re-balance the volume of the cylinder to the barrel by x1.7 to allow for the heavier ammo, and I wouldn't use a barrel any less than 6.03 for definate, getting a 6.04 or .05 if possible/ 400mm in length.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just a Q, I have a KWA KM16 SR12. Planning a KM 6.04.

Standard length is 502mm and I 'd like to buy a 502mm TB as I'll be able to use my borelaser to set my scope.

 

Now I see that the optimal lenth is between 420 and 480 ish. What would a longer barrel do?

Would it have a neg. effect on accuracy, etc. Or would it just have no effect?

 

Thanks

 

Ps. Yes, I'm planning to follow the guide ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A longer barrel has the BB in it for longer, so is open to having interference in travel by the operator for longer, ie, when you shoot theres more chance for you to move and send the shot not exactly where you wanted it to when you initialy pulled the trigger.

 

A shorter barrel reduces this, which is why they can often be precieved more accurate, longer barrels upto 509mm are really the domain of fixed and solidly supported BA systems, everything over 509mm is just a good way to gain fps and lose accuracy, nothing more.

 

As you plan to use a barrel thats only 20mm longer than I'd use, I wouldn't be conserned about any noticable bad effects, it will only mean that your compression system will not be operating at its full potential if you plan to use heavier ammo etc etc.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hai guys! It seems I can get a hold of a Real Sword SVD with a scope.

I plan on upgrading it to 250-300 foot range.

 

I know that the Madbull black fishbone bucking works best, and so do pdi springs. I might switch over to a 6.03mm TBB if the gun is too inaccurate.(If I can find one in 690mm)

 

The gearbox and motor is just fine, But what battery? It seems 9.6v works best.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I would personally use a small lipo. You can get a lipo that puts out just as much power as an equivalent 9.6, but the size will be smaller.

 

 

I to would use a lipo, but not for the above reason, though it is very valid.

 

A lipo is actualy more efficient and kinder to motors, allowing them to work at there peak 90% of the time, that to us one shot wonder boys with a properly sorted AEG DMR is the bestest ever biggrin.gif

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hai guys! It seems I can get a hold of a Real Sword SVD with a scope.

I plan on upgrading it to 250-300 foot range.

I know that the Madbull black fishbone bucking works best, and so do pdi springs. I might switch over to a 6.03mm TBB if the gun is too inaccurate.(If I can find one in 690mm)

The gearbox and motor is just fine, But what battery? It seems 9.6v works best.

Mine cycled a 580fps spring easily with a small 11v 20c 1600mah lipo.

A tightbore will not help you to get better accuracy, the Real Sword SVD's main problem is the hopup unit.

Good luck with the 250-300 feet, you'll need it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Also worth noting, is the extra gear on the RS SVD.

 

Don't expect the snappy response of a regular AEG running a 3c Lipo. I've tried all kinds of batteries, from 2c and up to 3c, the lag will still be there.

 

Also found mine to be more accurate with a 455mm AK Prometheus 6.03 barrel than the stock 690mm one.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Talking to a guy he mentioned that you can find the appropriate BB weight by using these two equations. fps/1200 for max BB wieght and fps/1600 for minimum. I dunno if it is compatible with the optimum flight for a BB is 380 fps. I have to test. However I have my m16a4 dmr tuned up. Its shooting at around 476-482 thats a 3.5 variance in fps. I personally feel thats as good as its going to get :P. Whats your opinions on running .40g ammo? According to that equation its about perfect. However I dunno if madbulls are going to get too expensive on me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i'd give em a go, i think you'll get some good performance, and if they get too expensive then go to .3's. as long as you hopup can apply enough hop to give the .4's a level trajectery, you should be golden.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Awesome, thats the perfect picture for DMR's. Just ranged in today, I can hit up to 230 ft torso sized. But I've been coming across a problem. at long distances the BB's starting curving sideways sometimes they curve right, sometimes fly straight, alot of the times they curved left. It seemed that they flew straight out of the barrel but observing through the scope they would curve at a certain point down range. Now i've shimmed my hopup arm, still has a little side to side play but it isn't dramatic and i've gone through great pains to ensure that my hop arm is filed level. I am using a new systema bucking with a prommy purple nub as well.

 

I personally suspect that its the BB's. Madbull .40g. Being around the community for awhile it seemed that people just dont really like them that much due to quality.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

bioval makes precision .4's but they are 15 bucks for 500. try using lighter weights and see if you can replicate the problem. if not, then its the bb's

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'll try, I have some bbking .32s i'll test out.

 

Bioval's .40s are just rebranded madbulls I think. I saw a reveiw on asr. They had airbubbles amongst other things, not even centered airbubbles as well. Same color as the madbulls as well.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey sniper haven, long time no see!

I have been tempted by this route myself, since my local site is a total hosefest and being a (spring) BA is asking for trouble!

Firstly, i must say, banjo your guide is superb and has cleared up a lot of my intial uncertantys and gaps in understanding.

Greatly tempted in making my already accurate Ak into a DMR varient (Tabuk or Zastava), but thats by the way as i first just want to get the internals doing the job in its current external guise.

 

At my site, bolt actions can do 500, fixed semi's 420, and autos 350

 

1.) Im interested if anyone has considered having a 'AEG' precocking to a button press and firing on trigger shot, then recocking on button press. I know it sounds unusual, but surely that would classify it as a bolt action (seperate action required for cycling) and therefore allow 500fps rather than the 420.

 

2.) A second crazy idea i have thought is where some (from the top of my head, i beleve the ARES tar21 is one) AEGS have variable FPS, so why not fit this to a DMR? or why not further this and have the FPS set at 420 on single, and combine the action of switching to auto reduce the FPS to 350, would this comply with the uk law?

 

Sorry if either or both seem a bit hairbrained lol

 

Cheers, Vassily

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've thought about your first idea before, but the second one sounds quite interesting. I look forward to seeing what people come up with!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Uhhhhhh Thats really really good. What platform are you using.give you or whoever did the work on that a pat on the back. I have heard of some more consistant but you have a winner right now i wouldnt mess with it.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.