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Killbucket

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great work KB, but i have to ask, have you engraved '6mm' on the shrike?

if so, WHY?! it's trades like that that spoil the likes of the HFC M190. surely it's no harder to engrave 5.56mm

 

Airsoft guns are real guns.

 

Because 6mm airsoft is it's own thing. I think it's wrong to mark a gun .50 cal if it's only a .22.

 

I think an M4 is an M4, regardless of material construction, propellant, or projectile.

 

Even on my 1919's I engrave "6mm", and not ".30cal" or "7.62mm". I consider them to be 6mm VERSIONS of Browning 1919's.

 

I do hope at some point, we embrace the 6mm for what it is, a low-velocity projectile to be fired from a GUN.

 

To mark any airsoft gun with a real-steel caliber is to admit or suggest that it is only a toy or "fake" of what it looks like.

 

Too bad Tokyo Marui didn't make the BB's a skosh smaller, like about .34mm smaller. Then they REALLY would be 5.56mms!

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TM didnt invent the 6mm BB as far as i know ;)

 

but surely the point of making, for example, an M1919 is to replicate the original in a safer form in which case surely accurate trades are favourable.

 

regarding the wrong to mark a .22 as a .50 point of view then surely by similar logic it's wrong to make a .22 look like a .50 chambered weapon by any means at all (not just trades)

 

either way, each to his own.

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Consider a '32 ford. There are more replicas registered in America alone, than Henry ever made.

FEW attempt to be taken as the real article. MOST have real Ford emblems on them, so I DO get why most airsoft mfgr's would do similarly to increase "realism".

You are 100% correct on this.

 

"Realism"...you feel very REAL pain when shot in the butt with a 6mm Airsoft gun.

I submit: the ONLY "Fake guns" that exist, do not fire anything at all.

 

I suppose a water gun should say the diameter of the stream it shoots. (you'd think Super-Soaker would have started a "technology race" already using such numbers by now.)

 

I put a lot of work into the Brownings I make. My M2HB design hasn't had the markings drawn up yet, but I will mark it similarly. It's NOT a .50cal, but it IS an M2HB, regardless of what fires from it. I could just see some mook with a shifty lawyer claiming the "stated ammunition will not load"...

 

ahhh%20wont%20fit%2050%20shell.jpg

A real LIVE .50 round, alongside a feed chute for one of the older shrikes I've made.

 

If you were able to convert a .22 Remington pea-shooter into a 6.8SPC, wouldn't you have it re-marked to avoid any confusion?

"Damn, the cartridges keep falling out of the barrel."

 

 

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i think your missing the point. you think of an airsoft gun as a rendition of another gun that shoots 6mm BBs, i (the most of the community) consider airsoft guns to be replicas of a real firearm and a complete airsoft replica includes the firearms markings. while most people say "real gun" or "fake gun" they mean firearm. and by the law of the US (of which me and you live in) most airsoft guns (including yours) are not firearms.

 

when my_plague said that your replica should say the real guns caliber, he meant it as if you were making a replica of a real firearm in its full form.

 

while you think you are making renditions of other guns, you are actually just making replicas of real firearms, thats how most of us see it and it bothers some people to see the wrong caliber written on a replica.

 

my point is just to let you know the way we see it is as sane as your way of seeing it, not to change your view.

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(Alright, 'Fangs' then...)

 

I can see both sides of the arguement here and its really quite interesting.

 

If one were to make a 'gun' that was an airsoft item in its own right, then it neednt look like or operate like a replica, so it could be marked with whatever calibre of projectile it was designed to fire (6mm for example). However, if the gun is designed to be a replica, it should be as accurate as is possible given the materials and construction techniques available.

 

Personally, I dont really care; custom made gun = made of win.

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Great points, all!

 

But the KEY here, is I'M the builder in this case.

So my INTENT is the deciding factor.

 

I make customized airsoft guns.

The intent is to emulate the use of a 1919 or M2HB Browning, by making a new body structure that is an homage to the historical items.

 

 

"Browning M2"'s were made by several manufacturers in several configurations. I had to make a LOT of changes to the original layout to make it compatible with airsoft use. It's literally designed as an airsoft first, and an M2 second.

 

Like those fake '32 Fords, it will fool your eyes, but not your brain. In order to make one design for a world market, I had to make sure that it could NOT be mistaken for REAL by any reasonable person. That being said, 99% of the folks who see one of my gun assemblies wouldn't know how to spot the difference.

 

It's not a replica or re-creation, by a long shot. There's no interchangeability with a "real" Browning gun that fires cased ammo. There's also a price/detail trade in play: the detail limits allow it to be affordable to the ones most interested in it.

 

The first mission of airsoft is fun, at least for us non-mil types.

 

It's REAL easy to pick apart something you know you will never buy. I get a kick out of the guys who say "I'd buy one right now if it was made of metal".

Dees. Yes, THAT Dees. The custom tight-bore guy. He's got an exclusive to make my design from aluminum.

The attempt cost him his business, if you ask me...

 

My first 1919 was off. WAY OFF. Stupid-looking. Way too fat, way too short, I had barely glanced at a pic of a Browning before I made it. I was able to retain ownership of it for a whole 3 days.

 

When somebody offers you a stack of five bills for something you spent an afternoon throwing together (I said, it was bad, wayyy bad. And will be worth a MINT when I croak) out of the goodie bin, you take notice.

 

Two weeks, four guns and one website later, I quit my full-time job because I couldn't afford to go to it anymore.

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But the KEY here, is I'M the builder in this case.

So my INTENT is the deciding factor.

 

lol, thats thw win right there folks!

 

KB you are quite an inspiration and i the first thing i do when i log onto my arnies account is see what new crazy stuff you have been building! I did have a plan to make and sell a few miniguns but never really got round to it in fear that i would make em, and they would just sit there gathering dust, but i may just do after what you said. (dont think i'll quit my job just yet thought :P)

 

u ever thought about making anything like the aliens pulse rifle or smart gun? how about a gas gun? or a custom shotgun?

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IT_0201FIR00292.jpg

I got PM'd on making a copy of this kit...I really need to get into doing metal one day!

 

I think it looks great, but converting a gun into a bludgeon hardly seems necessary.

 

I Don't know if I'd feel confident entering a building with a gun that may have splinters or viscera in the muzzle.

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Revision2 bonded up, first rev feed tray.

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I almost have a "whole" upper design done. One more rev on the parts will have something pretty interesting.

 

THEN, I'll morph a minigun barrel set onto the front. Since the Shrike belt-feed replaces what would normally be a delinker assembly, this will only need a drive motor to upset the lines, and I'll probably tuck it under the barrels as in an earlier build.

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Killbucket, what adhesive(s) do you use for your PVC builds?

I've only seen the clear liquid type, used for joining plumbing pipe, what's the stuff you're using in this pic...

pinkminigun00007.JPG

Are all your builds done with PVC?

I've seen you mention PVC pipe/tube but not what the sheet material is.

 

Are there different grades, and if so, which do you use?

Thanks.

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ABS glue. Oatey Black stuff, sold in a can with a goopley-blob brush.

 

I pour it into a Wilton Cake Decorating bottle as seen there. ABS glue is fine to use on PVC, except where subject to building code.

 

Teaching myself some new machining skills lately. I found a way to fixture leftover scraps of ABS...and whipped this thing up. Unfinished...but did I learn a LOT making it and fitting the parts.

 

Rather than do a lot of explaining, I'll just give you 6,000 words worth of pics:

 

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Just Yer basic, Belt-fed Door/BrainBucket Smasher.

 

 

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wow! that looks mean.

just needs a beefy flash hider or muzzle break and one of those ACE fixed tubular stocks. that would look cool.

 

cant decide if it would look cooler with an M203 (cut to fit flush with the barrel) or some form of bipod (it is essentially a support weapon after all :))

probably the '203 :P

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wow! that looks mean.

just needs a beefy flash hider or muzzle break and one of those ACE fixed tubular stocks. that would look cool.

 

cant decide if it would look cooler with an M203 (cut to fit flush with the barrel) or some form of bipod (it is essentially a support weapon after all :) )

probably the '203 :P

 

Or those side-rail mounted bipods.

 

Then you could have both. ;)

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Strength. The downside is, ABS is "self-lubricating". That means cutting with hand tools takes forever.

PVC is very easy to cut and work, but lacks real durability. PVC makes great movie prop-type stuff, because it's fast to work with.

 

ABS is VERY strong. If you grab the corner of a chunk with pliers and twist, it will flex and bend. PVC will readily snap.

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THE COFFINLOADER.

I figure, everything extant has somebody making it already, so like my recent micro-miniguns, this is out of my own imagination.

Once I make more than one, it's a "thing", right? I plan at least twenty of these, as uppers only. It's a monolithic setup for an Airsoft M4, universal in design. I want to do both carbine and SPR versions.

It's a belt-feed, but it's symmetrical, for left or right feed setup, like a Stoner 63.

The front half of the upper looks almost like a SCAR, with a forward charging handle like an MP5 has. The first one has a SCAR muzzle and flash-hider, robbed from the WonderGun:

killbucket_wondergun2.jpg

I've drilled (er, CNC'd) holes for four HK-type front rails, one per side, and one top/bottom.

The back half of the upper mimics the ARES Shrike in aesthetics, but omits the left-side charge handle. I pretty much recycled the CAD from the last build here, with a few tweaks...

Black wrinkle paint is drying on what I've just described so far. Once I can handle it, I'll snap a few pics.

 

Still in my head, not even SKETCHED yet, is the top feed cover, and it's the fun part. Coffin-shaped (because it would need to be, if it had ambi drive dogs inside) and hinged like the Shrike's, it will bring a nice space/decay flavor to the look.

 

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Killsaw-five0000008.JPG

Killsaw V has a G3 flash hider, And in the foreground, the first CoffinLoader Upper, with a shortened P90 silencer, just for the heck of it. The top spines are the best way to tell them apart, KSV has a trick cross-ribbed top, the CL looks like, well, a coffin.

 

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More T' come...

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