ODA15 Posted September 16, 2011 Report Share Posted September 16, 2011 NonEx, jkpics, thanks again for the help, I really do appreciate it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 18, 2011 Report Share Posted September 18, 2011 (edited) Just gotta say, I am EXTREMELY pleased with my WE M4 CQBR OB CO2 kit... I mean, I had the WE PDW KAC OB and the WE G39C, and the M4 is by far my favorite... MAGPUL:ed it and it's just a beauty; Â Â Sorry for the semi-*suitcasey* pic, quick snap with flash. I took the silencer off and put the flashhider back on, makes it look more badass and aggressive. Â Also, did some target shooting today, and it managed WAAAAYYY better than the constantly overhopping G39 and the semi-accurate PDW. This is 4 magazines (28rds each) at 8m/24ft, crouching and controlled semi-auto fire (where the yellow was is 1", 2.54cm, the black is 2" or 5cm.); Â Â That is with factory hop setting and 0.25g JBU BBs. Talk about consistent and zeroed in, wooo-haaawh! Lovin it! Â Also the tip with adjusting the front sight post with a pin punch and pliers worked flawlessly, thanks! Â I get 50 shots per 12g CO2 capsule on controlled semi auto-fire. On full auto it manages one full magazine of 28 rounds. Â :-D So darn pleased with this purchase! Edited September 18, 2011 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 I installed and tested my open bolt kit today, and I have to echo NonEx's statement about the gun being consistent and zero'd in. I haven't had a chance to test at a distance, but close range accuracy is great with my biggest (worst) grouping being .75" at 5m. It doesn't seem to be a gas hog either, as I could consistently get 2 magazines worth of firing per fill on green gas. Â However, I did have a problem. After installing the new bolt/hopup/barrel/trigger pack/bolt catch-release and lubing the entire system, the bolt would only move back about half of it's original travel when the charging handle was pulled. I could and did push the bolt back completely by forcing it with my finger via the "newly opened" chamber. After that, I could rack the charging handle and it would function fine about 19 out of 20 times. Â I put 60 rounds through it and there was noticeable wear on the bottom of the bolt carrier. But, after cleaning and re-lubing, the wear seems to have "leveled off" so to speak. It's not getting any worse after another 210 rounds. Â Oh, and the retrofitting kits for the magazines are a pain in the *albatross* to install. I spent a good 20 minutes *fruitcage* around with the spring. Does anyone have a good way to reinstall those? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 22, 2011 Report Share Posted September 22, 2011 (edited) Yes. I figured out how to handle the springs. Â Insert the follower at the top. Screw on the spring cover with the bottom screw only. Keeping pressure about halfway down on the cover, slide the spring into position. Then, using a small tool (small enough the get in the crack of the magazine shell and the spring cover), push/pull (by putting the tool in the crack and pulling/pushing down in-between the spring coils) the spring down towards the bottom, and keeping pressure on it with your left hand fingers, release the tool and pull down the last half, boom, it's in. Keep pressure on the spring cover and screw in the top screw, then the middle screw, and then you can do the others without problems. Edited September 22, 2011 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 Yes. I figured out how to handle the springs.... Â Good idea about leaving the spring partly cover on! I did that and it worked perfectly. Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted September 23, 2011 Report Share Posted September 23, 2011 removing the old cb mag kits  remove the screw on top, remove the mag lip then pull the follower out from the top, a small wiggle will let it out. the spring might shoot out so watch out for it.  putting in the new kits  remove one screw from the spring cover the top one only. with a small tool pull the spring down lift the cover then slide the new follower in. the cover is flexible and wont break even if you bend it up so no worries. by removing only one screw on the spring cover you dont have to deal with the spring trying to shoot out from the side. i can convert a mag in less than 1 min. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted September 24, 2011 Report Share Posted September 24, 2011 (edited) I just bought an WE M4 open bolt kit to keep for spares, contains pretty much all the vital parts for an M4 OB gun, 80 USD;  * Complete metal bolt with nozzle * Complete trigger box set * Bolt stop * Magazine conversion kit * Complete inner barrel assembly * Dust cover  The bolt with nozzle, bolt stop and trigger box (complete firing assembly) being the most important ones. Just a tip for anyone else that can't get original replacement parts seperatly and don't wanna go the RA Tech route. Edited September 24, 2011 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
jkpics Posted September 25, 2011 Report Share Posted September 25, 2011 removing the old cb mag kits  remove the screw on top, remove the mag lip then pull the follower out from the top, a small wiggle will let it out. the spring might shoot out so watch out for it.  putting in the new kits  remove one screw from the spring cover the top one only. with a small tool pull the spring down lift the cover then slide the new follower in. the cover is flexible and wont break even if you bend it up so no worries. by removing only one screw on the spring cover you dont have to deal with the spring trying to shoot out from the side. i can convert a mag in less than 1 min.   I have done about 40 mags, and here is the fastest way I have found.  1. clean the OB mag top, some have molding flashes that will make them har to fit. 2. shell off, bolt release parts off 3. top screw to remove feeder libs, use something to hold back the spring. 4. keep holding back the spring and drop the new feeder libs in, screw them down. 5. remove the 2 top most screws from the spring cover 6. pull back the spring and drop in the follower. 7. assemble the rest of the mag.  The only hard part is keeping the damn spring from flying off, and making sure the OB feeder libs fit right. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted September 30, 2011 Report Share Posted September 30, 2011 Thanks for the help regarding the magazines everyone. Â Has anyone had the problem with the OB hopup turning itself "off"? Â I've put about a thousand rounds through the gun, and the grub screw for the hopup is loosening itself now. I'll reset the hopup, fire 90 to 120 rounds, and then BB's roll out of the barrel because the hopup is "off" and the grub screw is almost completely backed out. I'm thinking it's because of the recoil but I'm not sure. Â I'm going to put a *very* small amount of blue Loctite on the screw and see if it helps at all. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 just replace the cut up oring which holds the screw in place. i suspect oil got to it and is starting to lose its "plumpness" Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 2, 2011 Report Share Posted October 2, 2011 (edited) Aherm, updated photo of my setup;    Also here is my final concept pics for the configurations;    I don't really like the looks of the MVG grip, but damn it impoves the overall grip and control of the gun. As oposed to my thoughts on the AFG, looks great, but I have a hard time gripping it properly. Good thing I will be able to run both configs when I get all my parts  Still loving this gun!  Album link; https://picasaweb.google.com/117328876138007382074/NonExWEColtM4CQBRCO2MAGPULCustomGBBR2011?authuser=0&authkey=Gv1sRgCOuzx9nJiKa8VQ&feat=directlink Edited October 2, 2011 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Quick question guys, at what part does gas vent at the charging handle? Does it vent more on the top or bottom part? Reason why I ask is I'll be modding the charging handle a bit with a small channel to redirect the gas away. Looking at the wiki site the mod is on the bottom wheras on the real PRI ga buster handle the deeper channel is on top. Thanks in advance for the inputs guys. Â P.S. Any preventive measures on how to get rid of surface rust? It's quite humid here in the Philippines and some parts are already showing signs of surface rust. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grindstone Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Polish and oil. WD40 is great for rust removal. Gun oil should help preseve it. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 (edited) ^ thanks for the tip Grindstone. How do you polish it? Is it the same as wiping it down with a clean cloth or do you have to use something specific? I have no access to gun oil locally. All I have now is silicon shock oil. The WD40 I have, will try that soon. Edited October 6, 2011 by neilgoth1974 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted October 6, 2011 Report Share Posted October 6, 2011 Make sure you spray the WD40 onto a rag then wipe, instead of spraying it all over the place. WD40s favourite meal is plastic/rubber. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Thanks ollie_ty. Got it, will do some cleaning when I get home from work Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Grindstone Posted October 7, 2011 Report Share Posted October 7, 2011 Any hardware store should be able to help you out in metal polishing and rust prevention/restoration with products and advice. Â As Ollie said, keep the WD40 away from the seals. Anything outside of nonpetroleum-based silicone oil should be kept away from rubber and plastic. I ruined my first pistol with some automotive silicone oil. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 Thanks Grindstone. As to hardware stores here giving advice, I really won't trust them. They do not even know what a threadlock is  I'll stick with yours and ollie_ty's advise. Thanks guys! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
neilgoth1974 Posted October 11, 2011 Report Share Posted October 11, 2011 (edited) Double post... My bad... Using mobile Edited October 11, 2011 by neilgoth1974 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 (edited) Hey guys I need some advice on how to outfit my WE M4 CQBR. I went from the pic above to my config B set-up, which turned out like this;   I kinda like the idea of the looks, but all the individual parts make it look "frankenstiened". Don't like the delta ring or the gas block, they are just there because of pure fuctnion and really look like *suitcase* TBH.  So I am thinking about getting some MadBull Daniel Defense Omega X rails (7" or 9") and some ACTION EOD outer barrels (9" or 11") (btw does anyone know if the MB DD OX are a drop in fit ?);  http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-daniel-defense-7-inch-omega-x-rail-black.html  http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/madbull-daniel-defense-omega-x-rail-9-inch-black.html  http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-9inch-eod-outer-barrel-set-for-we-m4-gbb.html  http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/action-11inch-eod-outer-barrel-set-for-we-m4-gbb.html  Problem is I can't decide which combo to go with, here is an MS Paint mock-up (yeh I know it's not the Omega X rail in the pics);   I am leaning towards the 7/11 setup or maybe 9/11... I still want it "CQB-ish", though, and the 9" rail might get too bulky...  Comments and/or advice appreciated! Edited October 17, 2011 by NonEx Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 I actually like your "B" setup, it looks less cookie cutter than other M4s. But I also like the 7/11 and 9/11 configurations. Â Do you need a lot of rail space? Do you like to have a more forward grip on the gun? If you do, run the 9". If not, run the 7", as it's cheaper and lighter. Not by much, but every bit adds up. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 Hmm, well. As of now I only use what is in the config B. AFG2, RSA and MBUS front. The rest I cover with XTM pannels. The only other thing I _might_ want is a PEQ (and)/or a light/laser... Hmmm... I guess I need 12" to get ALL of that on there  Actually, no, don'¨t think I would add anything other than what is on it allready.  The more I look at it the more I like the 7/11 config, and it just sounds right, guess that's why there are stores namned like that Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ODA15 Posted October 17, 2011 Report Share Posted October 17, 2011 The more I look at it the more I like the 7/11 config, and it just sounds right, guess that's why there are stores namned like that  Ha, I thought that too. The '9/11 configuration' just sounds, well, yeah. Anyway, how do you like Magpul's RSA? Does it snag on any of your gear? Is it fairly sturdy? I've been looking at one of those so I can ditch the factory front sling mount - it's developing a bit of play since I crank down on it with a VTAC sling. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Infantry Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 (edited) Here's mine: Â Â Â Â Â Â Â The stock, pistol grip, ejection port cover, magazine catch, MATech BUIS, Aimpoint CCO mount, Knight's RAS, leaf sight, and PAQ-4 are all real rifle components. Â Â This is my one and only primary and has never let me down. Shoots hot at 530ish FPS with a .20g. Shoots around 3 Joules with a .28g. All of the internals are stock Gen 3 AWSS, so I'm not sure why mine shoots so hot compared to most others. From what I've seen most chrono in the mid- to low-400s. Anyone else have a super powered AWSS? Â PS: The 203 is a G&P Edited October 18, 2011 by Infantry 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
liquidflorian Posted October 18, 2011 Report Share Posted October 18, 2011 Hello Gentlemen... I'm sure this has been asked and answered; but is the lower receiver compatible with real steel buffer tubes? I want to change my M16 stock to a adjustable stock... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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