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Lupus78

WE Gas Blow Back M4A1 Carbine

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just got my WE M4 CQBR and well its great, good recoil so its great. Problemm is sometimes it jam's. And when i try pull the charging handle it will fire

 

Anyone got any explanations?

 

 

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It's stuck there real good, probably with some kind of adhesive. And for a good reason. Since the hammer of the WE M4 is shorter, it takes a shorter stroke of the carrier to clear past the hammer. If you were to remove the rubber buffer in the receiver extension, the carrier will go past the hammer and should the hammer fall while the carrier is in the rear, you're in trouble. Also, the piece of rubber cushions a lot of the carriers inertia. Without it, the rear section of the lower receiver might come off like what's been happening to the PDW (until WE put a rubber buffer behind the bolt as well).

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just got my WE M4 CQBR and well its great, good recoil so its great. Problemm is sometimes it jam's. And when i try pull the charging handle it will fire

 

Anyone got any explanations?

 

Sounds like the white plastic collar on the guide rod housing has slipped forward. Push it back/glue it in place.

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Got a question to those with experience, I'm looking at a lower reciever with markings to replace my naked lower. Since I've never disassembled the trigger pack. How hard is it to strip the guts out and transfer them to the new lower? Does the trigger pack come out in one piece, or do you have to rebuild the sear, sear spring, hammer extra and then put them back in. I'd hate to spend the money, if it is a very challenging endevour to change out lowers.

 

Also, does anyone have the LAT roller bearing set like LAT-WP-LAT0001-AG on airsoftglobal.com? Does it improve function, and where can I find one in stock?

Thanks,

Noob

Edited by Noobgunner

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Got a question to those with experience, I'm looking at a lower reciever with markings to replace my naked lower. Since I've never disassembled the trigger pack. How hard is it to strip the guts out and transfer them to the new lower? Does the trigger pack come out in one piece, or do you have to rebuild the sear, sear spring, hammer extra and then put them back in. I'd hate to spend the money, if it is a very challenging endevour to change out lowers.

 

Thanks,

Noob

 

Honestly I don't think it's really worth the trouble (or money) just to have trades, that's my opinion. If you choose to do so I can give you a quick rundown of the basic steps required.

 

First remove or loosen the pistol grip screw to relieve the tension placed on the fire selector (you can remove the grip but make sure you don't lose the spring or detent) , next carefully pull out the selector by rotating it side to side (you may need to hold the sear back). After removing the selector, using a screwdriver remove the brass screw that holds the trigger pack inside the lower receiver. Then using a pin punch, remove the pin closest to the magazine release button.

 

After that, the trigger pack should be free and can be lifted out from the lower receiver as a single unit. When pulling the trigger pack out, hold it upright making sure you don't tilt it, as the pin that holds the sear in place is loose and will slide out causing the sear and spring to come out of the pack. Also, watch out for part #66 and the spring that holds it in place, both are located on the side of the trigger pack, they tend to jump out sometimes.

 

Once you separate the trigger pack from the lower receiver, there is no need to disassemble it any further. Transferring the bolt catch, magazine release assembly, trigger guard, and front pivot pin is fairly simple. When transferring your buffer tube assembly, you will also be able to remove the rear take down pin. The last thing to transfer would be your buffer retainer pin and spring.

 

Having the right tools makes a world of difference. Good luck.

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Got a question to those with experience, I'm looking at a lower reciever with markings to replace my naked lower. Since I've never disassembled the trigger pack. How hard is it to strip the guts out and transfer them to the new lower? Does the trigger pack come out in one piece, or do you have to rebuild the sear, sear spring, hammer extra and then put them back in. I'd hate to spend the money, if it is a very challenging endevour to change out lowers.

 

 

I bought the lower with Colt markings from ASB; it was pretty cheap and I was ordering some parts anyway. While it was FAR nicer looking than my Gen 1 lower, installing it was a massive hassle.

 

WE is notorious for making undocumented design changes and tolerance adjustments, and the newer bodies use much smaller frame pins. Expect to do a LOT of dremeling.

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just wanted to share my experience. i left the empty mag inside the car. it was kind of hot outside anyway,

i loaded the mag with propane. i heard a "thud", ignored it, a few miunutes later this happened.

 

wemagexplode.jpg

 

even the duct tape was torn apart.

 

that night, i was refilling another mag. i just placed one second push of propane. then i heard another "thud"

here what i found

 

wemagexplode2.jpg

 

i guess we better be careful.

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From the images, it looks like you have first generation mags (surprised you haven't thrown away yours yet). They have half the number of support struts inside, thinner wall thickness and are externally identified by the single cast line running along the bottom of the mag. The new ones have double the struts, thicker, and have two cast lines across the bottom of the mag for identification.

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I have a couple questions:

 

Is the CO2 version also known as version 4? Is the CO2 version compatible with regular GreenGas/Propane magazines? Does the CO2 version still shoot a hard hitting 450+ FPS? (I want this because I will be primarily using this gun for long range target shooting.)

 

Any help is appreciated. Thanks

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Until now there are only 3 "versions", the third being CO2 ready. All models currently sold are CO2 (unless the seller has some stock of first gen replicas). Co2 versions will work with GG mags and I think that depending of the weather you'll reach 450 fps very easily on CO2...

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Earlier I mentioned the new black coated TSC nozzles:

I know their stuff doesn't always work, but the "current stabilizing steel nozzle" is GTG.

 

I need to clarify this: The polished metal TSC "stabilizing" nozzle is good to go (meaning mine has yet to break on an M4 which has claimed several weaker ones), the black one ain't. It's not just a coating, they are subtle differences in the shape which might have been signs of improvement, however the threaded base is undersized and won't mesh with those of the outer nozzle body. Even with Loctite it comes apart after the first shot. It may be possible to superglue the nozzle together but mine went in the trash.

 

Any other reinforced nozzles out there?

 

 

 

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Earlier I mentioned the new black coated TSC nozzles:

 

 

I need to clarify this: The polished metal TSC "stabilizing" nozzle is good to go (meaning mine has yet to break on an M4 which has claimed several weaker ones), the black one ain't. It's not just a coating, they are subtle differences in the shape which might have been signs of improvement, however the threaded base is undersized and won't mesh with those of the outer nozzle body. Even with Loctite it comes apart after the first shot. It may be possible to superglue the nozzle together but mine went in the trash.

 

Any other reinforced nozzles out there?

 

well i bought the one from RA-TECH it has four pillars instead of three......

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hey guys, there is a new shop down here in France: www.airsoft-entretien.com they just started their business, and, according to their website, they sell "fiabilized" WEs as well as customs, with, as far as I can see, many RS and ra tech parts, that sounds good! From what I have understand, they work only on special orders for now...sounds good!

 

Beside this, my WE M4 still runs like a charm, after nearly 10000 rounds!

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Hi guy's, i'm thinking of purchasing the we tech m4 cqb co2 ready version. I've tried to read through this thread but haven't got alot of time right now and 300 pages takes along time! I'm hopeing someone can help...

 

-How are the latest c02 ready versions of this gbb? What should i be looking at upgrading or are they good out of the box apart from pprehaps an n-pas?

 

Thanks

 

Hugh

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can't wait for the WE M4 open bolt!

 

http://www.youtube.com/user/WEairsoft#p/u/1/dXiE3IRPnVY

 

The question is, is it worth spending that additional, I dunno, $100-$150 or what, or just go ahead and buy a King Arms or VFC M4 GBB.

Since WE hasn't come up with one release that works right out of the box I'm pretty sure there will be issues with this thing too.

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The question is, is it worth spending that additional, I dunno, $100-$150 or what, or just go ahead and buy a King Arms or VFC M4 GBB.

Since WE hasn't come up with one release that works right out of the box I'm pretty sure there will be issues with this thing too.

 

 

They have greatly improved sine their generation 1 series.

And I heard the VFC aint THAT good.

Dont know about King arms though...

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