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vertical grips cause the bbs to drop down faster defeating the purpose of a houpup. red dots make u go blind, for everyone u hit it takes away a min of vision so it makes u accurate out of fear. T

Yeah man, we pretty much get it. There's no need to post 20 times about how bad your KJW is. Now, can you please go ahead and delete your account?

News Update: We are back to working on our KJW BCGs. I think we should have a production level prototype finished within the next 10 days so keep your eyes peeled. For those who may have missed th

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Hmm.. I seem to be having an issue with one of the mags. It will barely shoot the whole mag on 1 full load of gas, whereas my 2nd mag goes through 2-3 no problem. I won't be able to get a refund from the store (*suitcase* hong kong sales stuff) so anyone have any idea on how I could fix this? It doesn't seem to be leaking, or if it is, I can't hear it.

 

Also, I'm having a bit of trouble getting used to the system on this gun. When is it safe to use the selector, because for example, when I run out of gas, the hammer is uncocked, so I can't move the selector without damaging something. Is this the only situation when I can't use the selector?

Is there anything I should/shouldn't be doing when reloading mags into the gun?

 

edit: oh and double check: i can fit G&P and King Arms (or clones thereof) RAS/RIS units onto this gun without modding it, right?

Edited by sirrith
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in case you hadn't noticed, most RS pricing is a joke, $10 replcia grips will work just as well as $100 TD grips, $2 ACM XTM's will work jsut as well as MagPul ones, same goes for rails, stocks, and anything not sights related or receivers and barrels. And even then some replica sights are fine on a 5.56 rifle.

 

Probably, but it's about build quality. QD release on an ACM TD grip will not be as strong as the real one. It may loosen with recoil.

 

And on the sights- Probably, but no one wil a RS 5.56 rifle will do so. Because screws will loosen over time, and depending on placement and material, they can even melt

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sirrith - I don't know much about the magazine problem, so I'll address the 2 other questions you have.

 

You can only move the selector switch when the hammer is cocked. Otherwise, it will stay at semi (or auto if you left it at auto when firing) when the hammer is uncocked. This is how the Real Steel M4, AR-15, M16s are too.

 

Quite a bit of modding had to be done to the G&P RIS. I had to take out the inner prongs of the RIS and cut/shave it a bit for it to fit over the gas tube and delta ring. Not big of a deal if you have a file, dremel, and some spare time.

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Same. But they didn't change the design... so why would it be different?

I thought there might have been a tolerance issue between runs or something. If they changed the material slightly the shrinkage rate would be different and the part could wind up being too small. Im not saying thats what happened but things like that have to be considered when changes are made. If they didnt make any changes at all between runs then its a moot point.

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Thanks, but I don't go to UNco, I don't know where they are! :P I got mine from a small shop in the middle of all the other more well known ones, came to $288 with a spare mag, and 2 bottles of gas!

Have a skirmish today, but won't be using it due to only having 2 mags :(

 

Will update asap on performance etc...

 

AWESOME ANYWAYS!!!!LOL..the important thing is that u HAVE IT!!!!!...and thats the awesome part....but..what a great deal 1 spare mag and 2 bottles od gas!!!WOW...at 288.00...im freaking jealous lol!

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Thanks for the help answering my q's guys :)

just one more concerning the gun actually: is it ok to release the bolt when there's no mag in the gun, and then pull the trigger to decock the hammer for storage? Or should I just leave the bolt and hammer in the cocked position..?

 

Also concerning the RIS/RAS units, are there any that would fit without mods, as I don't really have much time and the tools necessary...

 

t_hum I think you were right about the valve, there's no gas in the mag right now, and when I press down on the silver "button" thing that releases the gas normally, it takes a while to return to its normal position (or is that normal and I'm just clueless about gas guns?) But I can't test it as of now because that mag seems to like giving me problems :P the spring is now stuck and its not pushing bbs up, so I've got to take it apart somehow and fix that.

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Thanks, but I don't go to UNco, I don't know where they are! :P I got mine from a small shop in the middle of all the other more well known ones, came to $288 with a spare mag, and 2 bottles of gas!

Have a skirmish today, but won't be using it due to only having 2 mags :(

 

Will update asap on performance etc...

 

Does.... magic shop... has... website?!

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Unfortunately I can't remember the name of the shop, but I doubt it... I'm going to go back for some more magazines, so I'll be sure to ask them if they do have a website. However, even if they do, the prices online will probably be the same as the other shops located in HK. Cheaper prices are only for walk-in purchases :P

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Thanks for the help answering my q's guys :)

just one more concerning the gun actually: is it ok to release the bolt when there's no mag in the gun, and then pull the trigger to decock the hammer for storage? Or should I just leave the bolt and hammer in the cocked position..?

 

Also concerning the RIS/RAS units, are there any that would fit without mods, as I don't really have much time and the tools necessary...

 

t_hum I think you were right about the valve, there's no gas in the mag right now, and when I press down on the silver "button" thing that releases the gas normally, it takes a while to return to its normal position (or is that normal and I'm just clueless about gas guns?) But I can't test it as of now because that mag seems to like giving me problems :P the spring is now stuck and its not pushing bbs up, so I've got to take it apart somehow and fix that.

 

Myself I prefer to drop the hammer when storing the gun. It doesn't hurt the gun and if you were ever in the Military that is how the guns are put back into the armory. Just that when you're home people prefer to have the safety engaged which requires the hammer to be cocked. It's your choice, my preference is to have the hammer down as I don't care about the safety being engaged or not on an empty gun with no magazine in.

 

Most G&P front end sets will sit fine on your gun, you'll find most AEG front sets will With No Modification.

 

If you find that your magazines are beginning to have higher rates of gas consumption. Typically it is the main valve is beginning to stick. If you are like me and manipulate your gun with no regard to where the magazines go then this valve will collect a lot of dirt and debris.

 

My recommendation is to lube that valve from the top of the magazine every 15 to 20 Mag refills (Gas Refills That Is).

If you tend to top off your magazines with out all of the gas being used. Simply remember to actuate the valve when the magazine does go empty and verify the valves pops back quickly and easily.

 

Verify the Magazine Has NO Gas Remaining By Actuating The Valve Away from Your Face or Anyone Else's (unless They Owe You Money)

 

Push In & HOLD The Valve On The Upper Part Of The Back Of The Magazine With Your Finger (Your Choice of Finger)

 

With Silicon or (I prefer Gun Oil) Apply 3 to 5 Small Droplets Of Oil

 

Watch The Droplets Of Oil Disappear Into The Valve Into Magazine.

 

Actuate The Valve Several Times or 5 to 6 Times ( you should feel the valve moving freely at the 2nd push)

 

Keep In Mind You Have Fresh OIL In The Mag!

 

Fill The Mag With A 1 Second Shot Of Gas

 

Evacuate The Magazine Of Gas By Actuating The Valve.

 

This Is Necessary In Order To Keep from Oiling Up Your Hop Up!

 

Other wise you WILL Be Removing and drying Off Your BCG and Swabbing Out Your inner Barrel and Hop Up!!

 

The Then You Are Ready To Continue Owning A$$ On The Field,,,

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Thanks, I'll take her down to the store and see if they'll let me try on the front ends there soon as I have time.

 

I just took the magazine apart and turns out it wasn't a burr or spring binding that was causing the jams in the mag... It was a shattered bb. I am now never using bioval bio-bbs ever again :)

Also took the opportunity to lube pretty much every moving part I could inside the mag.

Took down the gun and lubed the bolt too.

 

Mag seems to be doing better now in terms of gas efficiency, will keep testing it. Valve does pop back out immediately, not sluggish like before.

 

Oh, almost forgot, t_hum or raven, is it possible to order that reinforcement part for the lower receiver yet? As I don't see it up on the website. (forgot what that part was called.)

 

Edited by sirrith
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@BrooklynBorn

 

Hence *some* most won't but the G&P aimpoint I believe works fine on .223 rifles. But to be fair if you will pay 10x the price to not have to tighten some screws occasionally then its probably for the best that you pay through the nose :P

 

If you are confident, you can try taking it apart, to see what's wrong, otherwise I'd just give the thing a good clean and lube form outside and see if your problem still persists.

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@ WhiteHawkSan & BrooklynBorn

 

I have a team mate of mine who has been using my old G&P AimPoint Replica red dot on his AR for about 3 years now and it is still going strong. The shock / recoil from the .223 - 5.56 rounds have yet to do anything to it.

 

How ever I do know a few people who are using Larue mounts with Air Ball optics on their ARs as well with no issues of coming loose.

 

I have noticed the Authentic Larue mounts fit very well on the KJW upper receiver. Not the case with my Classic Army AEG upper receiver that needed to be filed down in order to lock down.

 

At the end of the day just go with what you're comfortable with spending, I usually say,,,

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PM sent, t_hum.

 

Oh, and I remember reading somewhere back in the middle of this thread about TM stocks fitting tighter than the KJ stock. Well, I have a TM stock on hand, and I can say that it fits exactly the same :P

the finish on the TM stock seems to be a bit "finer" and its a lighter grey, and also slightly lighter, I think, than the KJ.

Edited by sirrith
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men...i need some info...maybe it's in the forum's pages..but i don't remmember which one :rolleyes: ...so i'll ask again....and sorry for that... :P ....a friend asked me this...so i'll blame him :D ...does the tanio wear special buckings and hop up spacers???...or we can fit the AEG ones????

 

 

thanks for the help!!!!

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