G&P sentry (vltor)

[sigma3]

Dressed her up and shot some photos...

 

 

 

 

 

[Calv1n]

Just finished reading the thread. Down right sexy gun in my opinion. I've decided I'm going to get the longer barrel version with the Magpul lower receiver ( Seeing as how Viltor doesn't make lowers) I do have a few questions. What (if any) would you guys say I should throw in for an easy upgrade? Like a tightbore, or new hop-up? Also, I was planning on getting p-mags, which should feed well, correct? I just want to be sure and have everything set-up and in my head for when I go to make the purchase and a couple months. By the way, great review, and I saw some very handsome Sentries

Edited June 13, 2010 by Calv1n

[hwagan]

Just finished reading the thread. Down right sexy gun in my opinion. I've decided I'm going to get the longer barrel version with the Magpul lower receiver ( Seeing as how Viltor doesn't make lowers) I do have a few questions. What (if any) would you guys say I should throw in for an easy upgrade? Like a tightbore, or new hop-up? Also, I was planning on getting p-mags, which should feed well, correct? I just want to be sure and have everything set-up and in my head for when I go to make the purchase and a couple months. By the way, great review, and I saw some very handsome Sentries

 

 

I'm really liking the 14.5, definitely makes it look a bit more outdoorsy. As for an easy upgrade, what kind of FPS are you going for? A tightbore should add another 20fps, and a Madbull 'H' nub will tighten up the groupings at range a decent amount - If you're going for around 400fps, i'd suggest maybe a new hop bucking - The G&P one seems to cope just fine at 300-350ish, but i've heard you need a bit firmer rubber for higher FPS set ups - If i recall correctly, a guarder clear silicone has been suggested by a few people. Gearbox should be good to go, so just the barrel and hop and you'll be sorted

 

*edit* Pmags wise, the following have been reported to fit and feed perfectly in a G&P lower;

 

King Arms/PTS 360 round hicaps (what i use)

PTS Gen 1 P-Mags

PTS M revision P-mags

PTS E-mags

 

So basically, anything but the ACM ones will all fit and feed beautifully

 

*and another edit* Sigma, that thing looks awesome - Nice clean set up, and damn good photography!

Edited June 13, 2010 by hwagan

[Calv1n]

I'm really liking the 14.5, definitely makes it look a bit more outdoorsy. As for an easy upgrade, what kind of FPS are you going for? A tightbore should add another 20fps, and a Madbull 'H' nub will tighten up the groupings at range a decent amount - If you're going for around 400fps, i'd suggest maybe a new hop bucking - The G&P one seems to cope just fine at 300-350ish, but i've heard you need a bit firmer rubber for higher FPS set ups - If i recall correctly, a guarder clear silicone has been suggested by a few people. Gearbox should be good to go, so just the barrel and hop and you'll be sorted

 

*edit* Pmags wise, the following have been reported to fit and feed perfectly in a G&P lower;

 

King Arms/PTS 360 round hicaps (what i use)

PTS Gen 1 P-Mags

PTS M revision P-mags

PTS E-mags

 

So basically, anything but the ACM ones will all fit and feed beautifully

 

*and another edit* Sigma, that thing looks awesome - Nice clean set up, and damn good photography!

 

Yeah I want it shooting roughly around 400, and the accuracy is another definite for me. How hard would it be to put in a new tightbore with that "Madbull 'H' nub" and a new bucking in there? Less importantly, how much will it cost? Also, recommended brands for each type? (other than the 'H' nub, since you gave a brand for it of course) Thanks in advance.

 

 

 

[fabio]

only just managed to get the damn flash hider off, required quite alot of force.

the battery storage is a pain in the *albartroth* but im looking at a ctr stock with lipos for it.

cant decided whether to get a the tan stock and grip etc

[Calv1n]

only just managed to get the damn flash hider off, required quite alot of force.

the battery storage is a pain in the *albartroth* but im looking at a ctr stock with lipos for it.

cant decided whether to get a the tan stock and grip etc

 

Do you have the tan version? If you do I definitely would get tan. The amount of tan that comes on the gun originally ( tan receiver, stock, pistol grip) is well balanced in my opinion. Not too much, and not too little.

[Calv1n]

Double post. My bad

Edited June 13, 2010 by Calv1n

[hwagan]

Yeah I want it shooting roughly around 400, and the accuracy is another definite for me. How hard would it be to put in a new tightbore with that "Madbull 'H' nub" and a new bucking in there? Less importantly, how much will it cost? Also, recommended brands for each type? (other than the 'H' nub, since you gave a brand for it of course) Thanks in advance.

 

First off, Chrono the thing and see what FPS it's doing currently - I'm guessing it'll be around 350-370, so assuming that turns out about right, i'd say go for a Madbull 6.03 Black Python barrel, Madbull H nub and a suitable bucking - Personally i've never had a problem with the G&P one, but i've heard they don't do so well at 370+fps.

 

Fitting all should be pretty easy, if a little fiddly - Tap the front receiver pin out, slide the upper assembly off, turn the hop completely off, take the C clip off bottom of the hop unit, slide the barrel + bucking out, turn the hop back on and tap it to free the original hop nub, replace the nub with the H nub, turn the hop all the way off again, slide the new barrel into the new bucking, then slide that into the hop unit, replace the C clip and re-assemble. Fairly simple

 

Cost wise, the barrel should be about $30-40ish, and a set of H nubs and buckings around $15.

[Calv1n]

First off, Chrono the thing and see what FPS it's doing currently - I'm guessing it'll be around 350-370, so assuming that turns out about right, i'd say go for a Madbull 6.03 Black Python barrel, Madbull H nub and a suitable bucking - Personally i've never had a problem with the G&P one, but i've heard they don't do so well at 370+fps.

 

Fitting all should be pretty easy, if a little fiddly - Tap the front receiver pin out, slide the upper assembly off, turn the hop completely off, take the C clip off bottom of the hop unit, slide the barrel + bucking out, turn the hop back on and tap it to free the original hop nub, replace the nub with the H nub, turn the hop all the way off again, slide the new barrel into the new bucking, then slide that into the hop unit, replace the C clip and re-assemble. Fairly simple

 

Cost wise, the barrel should be about $30-40ish, and a set of H nubs and buckings around $15.

 

Ok, thanks a lot. I appreciate the help greatly. Now all I have to do is wait till I get the money haha

[sigma3]

*and another edit* Sigma, that thing looks awesome - Nice clean set up, and damn good photography!

 

 

Thanks! I'm very happy with it so far. The main reason I went with the Sentry over other models was that it seemed to be the sleekest starting point, and I don't plan to do much to it. To be honest I was even on the fence about having that scout light on there.

 

Haven't gotten to do any shooting at range, but you guys weren't kidding – even on a 7.4v this thing rips. I can't fire less than 5 shots if I try! Loud, too – substantially louder than any other AEG I have. I like that... one of the biggest let-downs of milsim is when there's supposedly a raging battle going on, but the battlefield is nearly silent. Still, the short length and the volume will give me a reason to get a new suppressor eventually. A 14.5" with a suppressor is unwieldy, but a 10" – that'll be very nice.

 

I'm also planning to replace the hop-up, but I'll give it a few games first.

 

 

 

 

 

[stum99]

Have to add my four-penny-worth. I have just bought one of these fine guns, in the Black finish.

 

Really nice build-quality, no loose or creaky furniture, no wobble in the body. Fantastic rate of fire on a 9.6v battery and good accuracy.

 

My only complaints are changing the battery, its is a pain in the hole, cannot close the ejection port, and finally it doesnt have a locking bolt-catch which is a bit of a miss from G&P especially as so many other manufactuers have added that handy function.

[hwagan]

My only complaints are changing the battery, its is a pain in the hole, cannot close the ejection port, and finally it doesnt have a locking bolt-catch which is a bit of a miss from G&P especially as so many other manufactuers have added that handy function.

 

 

Battery wise, it's definitely a nuisance - Still, the world is well on the way to switching to Lipo's now - Really, the gun is designed for a 7.4 stick in the buffer tube. Think of it as G&P have nicely enough allowed you a way to use your old NimH's while you're saving up for some Lipo's

 

Being unable to close the ejection port is a little bit lame, but that's down to G&P finally adding a fairly decent fake bolt. Besides, the ejection port cover would be open in any kind of 'ready to fire' circumstance, so it's a little realistic at least.

 

As for the bolt release, i'm thankful G&P didn't add it - Having owned a couple of Dboy's and King Arms AEG's using the bolt lock feature, i've found it to be a massive pain. If the fake bolt gets in the slightest bit mis-shaped, it will never work again, no matter how hard you try. They often have a tendency to stick, the noise they make on releasing is utterly pathetic, and it makes removing the gearbox slightly more of a nuisance. When adjusting the hop-up, try very slowly easing the charging handle back into the receiver - I've found on my friend's sentry and my MRP, the charging handle will rest on the end of the latch, thereby keeping the bolt open and allowing hop adjustments without holding the thing back

[bladerunner168]

Also, Bladerunner - Really nicely done mate, looks the tits, especially with the EOLAD. You tried immersing the flashhider in boiling water for a few minutes? Take the inner barrel out when you do so just to ensure it doesn't get hot and affect the hop rubbers - That should loosen the glue up. Failing that, wrap it in a rag and use a decent pair of pliers on the flat bits at the base - It WILL come off, it just needs some welly

 

 

*edit* Also, i learned quickly for one simple reason - www.mechbox.com - They make it easy. Seriously, can't thank the guys who run that website enough.

 

*another edit* Lipos i use i get from www.componentshop.co.uk - Fantastically priced, very good quality, and the 7.4 1200 fits perfectly in the G&P tube

 

 

Thanks dude! component shop is out of those, might try some Kong Power ones.

[fabio]

Do you have the tan version? If you do I definitely would get tan. The amount of tan that comes on the gun originally ( tan receiver, stock, pistol grip) is well balanced in my opinion. Not too much, and not too little.

naw i have the black magpul version was thinking tan stock grip, foregrip rail covers etc

[Calv1n]

naw i have the black magpul version was thinking tan stock grip, foregrip rail covers etc

 

Could look cool. Matter of personal opinion I say. Try looking on Google.

[Trouble in Paradise]

Hello All

 

The more I read about the Sentry the more I need one. Looking to make a purchase in a few weeks and looking to see what accessories I think would go well. Have ordered a Magpul Angled foregrip, a couple of P-Mags and rail covers.

 

Would a "Mad Bull Gemtech HALO" Supressor fit onto the sentry? I like the thought of being able to put on or remove the supressor without removing the flash hider (and I think it will look cool!!)

 

 

Thanks

 

 

TiP

[hwagan]

Hello All

 

The more I read about the Sentry the more I need one. Looking to make a purchase in a few weeks and looking to see what accessories I think would go well. Have ordered a Magpul Angled foregrip, a couple of P-Mags and rail covers.

 

Would a "Mad Bull Gemtech HALO" Supressor fit onto the sentry? I like the thought of being able to put on or remove the supressor without removing the flash hider (and I think it will look cool!!)

 

 

Thanks

 

 

TiP

 

 

If you fit a G&P M16A2/Birdcage flash-hider, it will - It might even fit with the Troy flash-hider on there, but i can't confirm that unfortunately. Personally though, i'd go with a Dytac AAC suppressor - It's MUCH quicker to fit and remove, looks sexy as hell and comes with a horrifically menacing flash-hider to screw it onto This thing here;

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=Dytac+QD

 

Just make sure you get a Clockwise one

[sigma3]

After some preliminary, not-very-official shooting tests, I am very impressed with the accuracy of this thing. Using Airsoft Elite .25s I was able to land almost every shot within what I'd say was a 2" grouping at 50 feet or so... and then aiming at a telephone pole that was not only at least 150 feet away, but also uphill from me, I was able to hit it at least once in every 5-round burst. Not exactly clinical results, but hey, good enough for now!

 

Anyone have any idea how heavier BBs would do in here? I've got a bag of BioVal .30s that I might like to use... and I think some .28s somewhere?

[hwagan]

Anyone have any idea how heavier BBs would do in here? I've got a bag of BioVal .30s that I might like to use... and I think some .28s somewhere?

 

 

They WILL increase your accuracy a tad for the obvious reasons of greater mass and momentum, but they'll also get to the target a fair bit slower. I'd say add an H nub to the hop unit to change that 1 in 5 to 3 in 5, and stick with .25's - .25's are a nice compromise between weight and speed... I run .2's in mine, but it's kind of necessary to get decent range out of UK FPS limits. Saying that, a fat-guy sized tree trunk about 150 feet from my back door, i can land almost every round on it from my MRP, which runs the same internal set-up as the sentry. I'd say H nub, a decent tightbore barrel (i'd go with a Madbull 6.03) and stick to .25's - The extra FPS boost and tighter grouping from the H nub/6.03 combo should increase your accuracy quite nicely. A lot of people say a Madbull ultimate hop unit is the way forward, but i really see no need personally, the G&P hop units are pretty damn good in my experience.

 

On another note, i was fiddling with the hop in my MRP yesterday and noticed it was starting to hook slightly left - It seems the Madbull H nub might be a micron too wide for the slot, and where it's been squeezed in it seems to have very slightly deformed on one side over about 10,000 rounds of use... Might try and find an element H nub instead.

[Wingmann]

I have the Element white one in, but it'll take me some time to reach 10,000 to see if there's any difference.

 

Element H nub (white), 0.25BBs, default barrel, Guarder SP90 (which probably got the gun down to 290 or so, to be compensated later with a TBB and Guarder silicone bucking).

[Wingmann]

Battery news: I just received a new AK-type LiPo battery, 7.4v, 1700mAh 15C, 145mm long, 18mm in diameter.

 

It fits perfectly inside the stock tube in all but position 0 (zero). At minimum extension the connection cables -not the battery- portrude outside the stock. In any other position there's space enough to fold them back inside

I for one welcome my new LiPo battery

 

(Be careful when converting batteries to Dean connectors. Don't short 'em!)

[bladerunner168]

Battery news: I just received a new AK-type LiPo battery, 7.4v, 1700mAh 15C, 145mm long, 18mm in diameter.

 

It fits perfectly inside the stock tube in all but position 0 (zero). At minimum extension the connection cables -not the battery- portrude outside the stock. In any other position there's space enough to fold them back inside

I for one welcome my new LiPo battery

 

(Be careful when converting batteries to Dean connectors. Don't short 'em!)

 

Wow, and there was me getting worried that this wouldn't fit http://www.kongpower.com/product_en/show.asp?pro_recno=KB-1115-2a&rtnto=product_list.asp%3Fpage%3D1%26pkind_recno%3DO1%26kind_recno%3DO11%26sort%3D1&page=1&sort=1&kind_recno=O11&pkind_recno=O1

 

Too late now, they're out of stock from Fire Support.

 

Also wanted these http://www.redwolfai...il?prodID=27097 but was hesitant about the price, now they're out of stock too

Edited June 18, 2010 by bladerunner168

[Wingmann]

now they're out of stock too

Don't worry

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-battery/batteries/lithium-batteries/gandp-ep-power-7-4v-1200mah-20c-lithium-battery-t-plug.html

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-battery/batteries/lithium-batteries/hot-power-7-4v-1100mah-12c-lithium-battery.html

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/bb-battery/batteries/lithium-batteries/hot-power-7-4v-1700mah-15c-lithium-battery-for-ak-series.html

 

They all fit

[Wingmann]

I was re-reading the thread just now and I noticed that some problems could be solved by adjusting the motor height.

 

1.- Locking in semi-auto. A correct adjustment in the motor will help with this issue -issue that I personally have suffered just one time-.

2.- Gears/Tappet/Nozzle not cycling correctly, thus sending some BBs without force, specially in semi auto fire. A wrong diagnostic led me to ditch a couple of MAG mags -which were rattling too much in the well anyway- and thinking I had a problem with the hop nub. It was all the motor not spinning the gears properly and therefore making the nozzle act weird/ be out of cycle.

 

I'd advise to take a little time in adjusting the height properly if you find any of these issues.

[G0LF K4RT]

Hey, so before i go out and buy the gun and everything, could you guys please confirm that the following setup will be fine / wont have any flaws?

 

RoF upgrades:

MOSFET

Prometheus hard piston

 

Accuracy upgrades:

Prometheus TBB (either 363 or 285mm)

New H-nub (Madbull or Element?)

Guarder clear bucking

 

Thanks, I just really dont want to mess up on this one (already running low on cash)

 

One more question: Does anyone know if King Arms M16 midcaps (120rnds) will fit and feed in the magpul/vltor lower?

Edited June 22, 2010 by G0LF K4RT