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Ok, I think I'm going to go with the following:

 

CPU: Intel i5 7600K

GPU: Sapphire RX 580

MB: Gigabyte GA-Z270-Gaming K3

RAM: Corsair CMK8GX4M2B3000C15

SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250Gb

OS: Windows 10 Home (Non OEM)

Monitor: Samsung S24F350FHU (Freesync, yes, but only 60Hz - compromises)

 

 

Any final thoughts, the monitor spec for instance?

 

Tom.

 

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I urge you to go with 16gb ram and a rx480, since a 580 is basically a overclocked 480 but costs quite a bit more. 7600k is nice, but most people don't use the capabilities. Non k is fine in my book. Or hold on a month or 2 and get a 8600. No-one to lend you a monitor till you can afford a nice one?

I could, but being in Belgium doesn't help...

 

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

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Lone,

There are significant cost implications if I were to go that route.

8Gb Ram + RX580 = €345.40

16Gb Ram + RX480 = €461.00 approx

 

The price difference comes from the 480 being 8Gb and the 580 being 4Gb and, of course, double the Ram.

 

 

Are you saying I should be investing in a 144Hz monitor?

 

Tom.

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Well see, GPU's age fast. Monitors not as such. And 144hz is nice, but the greatest difference would be 'sync greater than 75'. What I mean is, there's a good chance you'll be upgrading your gpu in 4 years or even less. Not so with monitor, case, peripherals and PSU.

So make sure they exactly what you want since they'll last longest.

 

Your CPU is fast and powerfull, but you can go lower easily if you'd stick with 1080p and no top-end gpu. Check Jay2Cents newest video. The i5 was only bottlenecking a 1080ti and titan XP at 1080p resulution.

 

That's why I said go for second hand where you can :).

 

I'm still gaming with a hot and inefficient 3930k and it's not bottlenecking my 1080ti. That's 2012 tech. Hell, an overclocked 2600k still keeps up.

 

But, that said, I forgot RAM prices went up that high. My bad there.

 

Sent from my C6603 using Tapatalk

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I don't know if he need 16 gb now.  Especially with this setup. Rams are not that cheap as they used to be.

 

I would recommend go for better GPU coz of his preference. He want to play games on it. Second thought, you pick CPU with K, have you been doing OC? Or You want ot do it?

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Just to cap this off, I have bought all the components, some have arrived and still waiting on others.

 

Oh, and wouldn't you know it but Sod's law reared it's head and my Enermax PSU died so I've had to buy a new one, see below.

 

The list is as follows:

 

CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600

GPU: XFX RX 580 Black Edition 8Gb

Mobo: Asus Rog Strix B350-F Gaming

RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws 5, 8Gb x 2(16Gb), 15-15-15-35 (F4-2400C15D-16GVR)

PSU: Corsair HX750

SSD: Samsung 850 EVO 250Gb

OS: Windows 10 Home (Retail)

Monitor: ViewSonic XG2401 (144Hz, 1ms, TN)

 

Budget definately blown!

 

Tom.

Edited by Tommygunn
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From what I have learned watching "Grand Designs" a budget is a formal declaration of:

A  What you can afford.

B  Approximately 50% of what you will spend.

 

 

I have a perfectly good setup right now, overkill really considering I only really play GTA V and recently Borderlands 2

 

However.

 

The evil little part of my brain that is into computers is reminding me that a Z170 with a 6700K only has 20 PCIe lanes.

 

I already have a 1080 ti and three M.2 NVMe drives.  I am already bottlenecked by the lack of PCIe lanes.

 

If I want to get a 10 gig NIC and put those drives in Raid (which I do), I am boned.

 

I think I might have to start looking at a Threadripper setup some time next year.

 

Never mind, money is for chumps.

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Everything is fine, however, I've run into a couple of hiccups. First, is as described below, and the second is Battlefield 1 related and I'll get into that later.

 

Ok, after the install I sorted the partitions to be as follows: Operating System © ggrrrr, Games (D) and Everything Else (G) - C and D on my SSD and G on my HDD.

 

However, after the install, a disk 'F' appeared on my SSD and has the same or similar folders as my 'C' drive, and I don't know why. From some searching this would appear to be normal and unavoidable, however, other people's 'F' disk only seems to take up a few hundred Mb's while mine has a capacity of nearly 20Gb.

Why is this file here, why are certain programs e.g. Movavi Video Suite defaulting to it for photo/video saves and can I get rid of it and return the 20Gb back to C or D disk?

Thanks,
Tom.

 

Disk_F.jpg

 

This_PC.jpg

 

Files_in_F.jpg

Edited by Tommygunn

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Quick  Q for those who use RGB on ASUS motherboards.

 

Can you individually address LED's or LED zones?

If so, can you choose to turn them off, have them vary in brightness and pattern?

 

Since RGB is unavoidable when buying higher end mobo's, I'd like to emulate the subtle amber glow of vacuum tubes in my case.

Tempered glass might be okay, but I'll have to laser cut a Phantek front panel to accommodate decent airflow. Thinking of Hex style mesh.

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My Asus ROG Strix B350-F Gaming has one area of fixed LED's, on the chipset, and one extension header. Both are controlled by the same software but only operate as one. You can not have one type of light show on the chipset and another on the header extension, however, read on.

 

See below for the Asus Aura control panel.

 

You can certainly turn them all off, top right of control panel, but there is no option for dimming, unless you get an an add-on LED controller like those all over Ebay and Aliexpress and power it off the 12V header/PSU/USB. This add-on controller would also allow you to independently, of the mobo, to control the secondary set of LEDs in any way it allowed.

 

 

Tom.

 

Asus_Aura.jpg

Edited by Tommygunn

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Its COMputer (love the I.T. Crowd) based.

 

I'm interested in picking up one of the home assistant models out there (despite basically every film with AI and robots resulting in a mechanical uprising) and I'm trying to work out what to pick up.

 

For what its worth my primary sources of music are iTunes (for my iPod) and spotify. I'm not an apple fanboy,just received an iPod as a present one year and like having my music seperate to my phone for battery reasons.

 

Eventually I'd like to go full on smart home with lights, speakers, thermostat, security and maybe even a regulated greenhouse (I'm probably going to have to work this seperately on an Arduino board but if I can plug it into my standard software great).

 

So Amazon or Google? Anyone have experiences with these systems?

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Just so you know, I'm coming at this from a heating background.

 

Nest is the Google one and seems to be the better of the integrated systems. It can emcompass your thermostat, alarm, cameras, lights, and is compatible with the Google home assistant.

 

It will also have door locks as an option in future.

 

The Nest rep was in the other day. Its a very slick system. The Honeywell system isn't as well polished in my opinion, and the Hive is not a true smart thermostat like the Nest.

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Plus the Hive is likely to become self aware and create a creepy little girl hologram in your home and cut you up into a million pieces with lasers.

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Plus the Hive is likely to become self aware and create a creepy little girl hologram in your home and cut you up into a million pieces with lasers.

Goddamn AI. When will we learn our lessons?

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Don't do it.

 

If it wasn't called "home assistant" and was called what it is: "permanent in-home corporate AI listening device".  Nobody would buy it.

 

The thing runs voice analysis on everything it can hear, runs speech to text and logs the text.

It then runs analytics on what you've said and uses it to run targeted marketing.

They sell the data.

If you are using Amazon, they can tie it in with your purchasing history.

If you are on Google, they can tie it in with every place you have ever been and information scraped from your email.

 

I am not comfortable with that level of privacy (none).

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Oh my. For some reason I hadn't even contemplated the surveillance aspect, thats a little 1984.

 

What about "smart home" tech like the thermostats and security cameras then, presumably they're OK to use (though hackable)? Or should I build my own stuff with arduino boards?

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The home automation stuff uses the same level of encryption as banking apps apparently.

 

Also, Samsung got found out their smart tv's were doing the surveillance and targeted ad thing. I don't recall whether they stopped or not.

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Oh my. For some reason I hadn't even contemplated the surveillance aspect, thats a little 1984.

 

What about "smart home" tech like the thermostats and security cameras then, presumably they're OK to use (though hackable)? Or should I build my own stuff with arduino boards?

 

The cameras are watching you and can be turned on remotely, including the ones on the front of your smart TV that you didn't know were there.

 

The home automation stuff uses the same level of encryption as banking apps apparently.

 

Also, Samsung got found out their smart tv's were doing the surveillance and targeted ad thing. I don't recall whether they stopped or not.

 

Balls, I'm afraid the level of encryption is irrelevant if the manufacturer set a backdoor account where the user name and password are both "admin".

 

Happens all the time.  Lowest bidder Chinese components.

 

Read this:

https://blog.fortinet.com/2017/11/16/reaper-the-next-evolution-of-iot-botnets

 

Remove all Internet Of Things (IOT) devices from your house.

 

Immediately.

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