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VFC MP5 (Umarex Licensed)

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One converted MP5k into a PDW

u2a8amyz.jpg

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u8urapeb.jpg

 

Good bit.

Mixed feelings about it however.

The stock is as solid as a rock!

All steel locking/folding mechanism and steel lining at least half the way into the very solid plastic stock so I don't see any amount of rough airsofting damaging/breaking this stock.

 

Bad bit

The new outer barrel is a very poor design indeed.

The old one has a very defined cutout in the front end of the barrel itself to accommodate the front sling loop as shown below

a2yzy5ed.jpg

Now the new outer barrel looks like this out of the box

daga9apy.jpg

As you can see there is no cutout for the sling loop, now the flashider part can be unscrewed to make a gap for the sling loop, so I then screw in the sling loop and reattach the flashider, and now because the threads for the flashider are so loose as the top of the flashider makes contact with the sling loop the lower half is further in than the upper half and as such makes the flashider point down quite dramatically.

Currently I have it on loose to take the pics but if I want it nice and snug I'm going to have to find a way to mod it somehow.

Why the hell VFC couldn't just make it a single piece outer like the original is beyond me, but I believe its a money saving exercise as the front is steel and the rear is alloy.

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One converted MP5k into a PDW

 

 

 

 

Good bit.

Mixed feelings about it however.

The stock is as solid as a rock!

All steel locking/folding mechanism and steel lining at least half the way into the very solid plastic stock so I don't see any amount of rough airsofting damaging/breaking this stock.

 

Bad bit

The new outer barrel is a very poor design indeed.

The old one has a very defined cutout in the front end of the barrel itself to accommodate the front sling loop as shown below

 

Now the new outer barrel looks like this out of the box

 

As you can see there is no cutout for the sling loop, now the flashider part can be unscrewed to make a gap for the sling loop, so I then screw in the sling loop and reattach the flashider, and now because the threads for the flashider are so loose as the top of the flashider makes contact with the sling loop the lower half is further in than the upper half and as such makes the flashider point down quite dramatically.

Currently I have it on loose to take the pics but if I want it nice and snug I'm going to have to find a way to mod it somehow.

Why the hell VFC couldn't just make it a single piece outer like the original is beyond me, but I believe its a money saving exercise as the front is steel and the rear is alloy.

 

That sucks about the sling loop cutout.  I got rid of the sling loop on mine and filled it with JB Weld since the real MP5K did not have one (although some MP5K has them).  It seems like guns workshop has a custom steel outer barrel with the cutout

https://www.facebook.com/gws.custom

IMG_0013_zps382554b0.jpg10527694_493591854108919_886336392715338

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Now those outers look SWEET, certainly on the list along with a slightly longer inner barrel.

I managed to sort it last night with the aid of a shim 8 had off the flashider of an M4, it's pretty sturdy now but with all the fiddling around the threads on the sling loop are mangled so I need a new one of those.

I would have left the sling loop out but without it the flashider screws on so far that the lugs touch the front sight and it looks stupid.

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Some bad news for those waiting on the 3 round burst lower that was hinted at a few months ago.  I asked VFC a few days ago and they have no plans to make one :(

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Is it me or is it that all VFC and WE MP5s have issues with sight alignment?

 

After I meticulously modded my VFC MP5A2/3 to have no cycling or consistency issues with stock parts and VSR hop, I worked on a few more VFC MP5s and WE MP5.  Yesterday I went and bought a VFC MP5SD3.

 

All MP5s so far has had a front sight alignment issue where the front sight is rotated too far to the right and the gun basically shoots off to the left of the sight picture.  Its not hard to correct the issue (harder on the SD3 as the foregrip frame is welded) but is a bit annoying, considering we all pay top dollar for something which shoots like cr@p.

 

From talking to VFC owners no one seems to have ever noticed, does everyone have the same issue, or no one really cares because most people either slap a RDS on or use the rounds to guide onto the target?

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Picked up a used MP5A5 a few days ago. Had issues with the hop up, did the VSR mod with a nineball rubber and I am getting incredible range and accuracy, no misfeeds and it only took me around 20 minutes..

Already skirmished with this once and it works very well and I am thinking of picking up a few parts in case something goes wrong with it, and have been looking at magazine valves too...

So, are Azimuth valves worth it?

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They are ok, I have the azimuth power-down valve in one mag, but aside from a small reduction in fps there isn't really any real advantages of having it, though I have made some mods that improves cycling, I shall explain...

 

Some have theorised that the regular valves output too much gas which leads to an accelerated cooldown effect.  However, if you compare the valve with any of the other GBB valves, most have much wider openings, suggesting other factors at play with the VFC. 

 

Some will say that the tank is small and surface area is fairly small also for heat to be absorbed.  While that is true, Marui/KSC Glock 18cs have no cooldown yet magazines are the same dimensions.  In fact their output valves are larger and the metal slide variants have heavier bolt carriers which also takes in account of weight of slide and valve differences.

 

So it leads me to conclude that:

 

1) The stem inside the blowback unit has openings which allow gas to be passed to the bolt carrier piston.  Those openings are not wide enough. which leads to weak recoil impulse, using more gas than required for cycling, and increased temperature dependence of the flute valve.

2) The recoil spring induces a high ROF, which means that it is too stiff.  The ROF should be lower so that there is more time for the liquid propane to absorb heat and convert to gas form.

 

So the solution was to:

 

 - Clip the spring by 2-3 loops

-  Enlarge the openings on the blowback stem with a dremel as well as modifying the blowback unit to allow more volume of gas to pass to the rear of the flute valve, triggering the flute valve sooner.

 

 

This results in more reliable auto dumps, increased felt recoil and improved firing impulse, all without new valves
.

 

The only issue I see with the VFC valves so far is that the O-rings are too soft, and just requires a replacement.  I bought stiffer O-rings from an O-ring place for $6 for 10 sets. 

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Couldn't ask for a better answer, thanks.  :D  I will refrain from buying any valves for now, and I will just get the azimuth power down floating valve for the bolt.

I don't really care about recoil, but yes, the cycling on full auto is a bit iffy.. Although I don't really plan on using it on full auto that much as I am using the gun in CQB only, i will pull it apart when i have free time and look onto the things you mentioned!

Cheers!

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Which recoil spring (120% or 150%) your are recommend for VFC MP5-N GBB? Problem with my MP5 - sometime bolt can't feed BB in the chamber and just stop. If i hold barrel down - O.K., barrel horizontal - 50\50, barrel up - almost no feed.

 

Bolt Head is standard, but nozzle is Aluminum T.S.C.;

Recoil Spring is standard VFC.

 

I think bolt itself now is heavy to be able work well with 100% recoil spring, so need more harder. I saw just spring on eHobbyAsia one 120% another is 150%. I think 150% is too much. I have got more then 800 RPM on current setup.

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The issue is the nozzle and weight in this case.

 

What is happening is that the depth of the gas route from the nozzle/blowback unit is a fraction of a millimetre to deep, the bolt has trouble pushing past the friction of the magazine gas bucking that is pushing against it.  Normally when the nozzle is of normal weight its not so bad, the bolt return speed is high enough to return to battery, but in this case with a heavier bolt head it affects the return speed.

 

I have a stock nozzle reinforced with a steel pin at the feed ramp, but the return was still an issue.  I upped the spring tension by putting a 4mm spacer behind the spring.  Else going for a 120% spring may work fine.

 

Likewise, I had inconsistencies on auto as well due to both this issue and also the hammer spring being too light, so to get more consistent performance I added a 4mm plastic spacer behind the hammer spring and FPS became more consistent on auto.

 

Coupled with:

 

- VSR mod

- Cocking tube realignment

 

The MP5 will shoot fantastic. 

 

 

In fact I had the A3 and the SD6 at the same time.  A3 is a lot better than the SD6 in terms of construction and a lot less effort to tune.  But the SD6 is "cooler".

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Got a new VFC MP5A2, semi version, only test fired it as it's still too cold.

 

It came with one "copper clip" bolt guide, (maybe it was supposed to have two but mine only had one), replaced it with Azimuth.

The bolt is now a one piece thing without extractor clip, so it looks cheaper.

Mag sits very tight.

Has white serial, 14G0XXX and "6mm BB".

Tried Crusader's feed ramp, it seems to need some filing for the mag to fit so I replaced it with stock again.

 

Now my questions, if I can't get any of the slim handguards specially made for VFC, would FEs fit or does rs fit well?

 

Anyone who knows how the Angry Gun outer barrels fits with Crusader's front sight?

Edited by Karnage

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Hello folks. I have the version 1 mp5a2 by vfc, I bought this gun when it first came and only ever shot a couple of mags through it. I bought it as a collectors piece cause it's a beautiful gun. Iwas looking at the nozzle the other day and noticed slight waring, I googled the problem and found out that there are 3 versions of the mp5 a2. First and second batches had design issues while the 3 batch had fixed the problem. After reading this I decided to buy myself a new WE mp5 as I read that they worked well out of the box and are a little cheaper but upon inspection of the desired WE model I noticed how unpleasant it looked compared to the vfc version I own, so I decided to buy the version 3 mp5 a2 by vfc, but then thought maybe they brought out a fix the problem, so this has brought me to this point, on arnies begging my honourable peers for assistance. Any help as what this fool should do to fix my gun before it breaks itself.

Edited by icolater

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These are the bare basic mods to ensure gun won't wear:

 

- Crusader Feed ramps.  Will stop bolt nozzle from hitting sides of magazine lip

- New bolt nozzle OR, drill a 2mm hole into the feeding tab/BB stripper and then melt a small nail into int.  That will stop the feeding tab/BB stripper on the nozzle from breaking.

- File down the sharp edges on the gas release delayer/extractor sear, and also the auto sear.

 

These are the bare basic mods to ensure gun will be skirmishable:

- Increase hammer tension by either, adding spacer to hammer, OR getting a heavier hammer spring

- 120% recoil spring: Ensures no bolt bounce and light strikes on auto.

- VSR hop mod (a little more advanced mod) :  Increase accuracy and range by 100%.

 

This is the mod you will need if the front sight is offset at an angle (like so many VFC/WE/real steel). 

- Undo the front sight

- Take a rubber mallet and smash the cocking handle in the direction which makes the front sight straighten.

- reapply front sight to check.  If not straight, keep smashing.

(I did this to an RS G3 also)

Edited by 3vi1-D4n

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Wow, that's a lot of things to do, going to go the easer option a buy the new nozzle, feed ramp and upgrade the springs as you suggest, I think my sights are ok thank god. Thanks a mill for the help.

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No worries. 

 

Really a lot of the more technical mods can be done with less than 40 minutes total with a dremel, mallet, and a soldering iron (to melt the pin into the nozzle)

 

Not to be a devils advocate, but yeah literally every VFC MP5 and WE MP5 has the offsetted front sight issue.  If you go straight to optics then it won't matter but it just sucks that they never shoot straight using their iron sights even on maximum windage adjustment.   Even my mates RS AR15s and G3 and AKs have this issue so its not unexpected, I have been lucky not to have this issue with my RS.

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