Stark Arms Walher PPQ M2 Coming Soon.

[NonEx]

Perhaps I shall buy a dozen or so and sell them onwards on this forum

 

That's a joke by the way, way too much work and overhead

[NonEx]

Well... Here's a depressing update.

 

The RS medium strap is less comfortable than the stock Stark medium backstrap...

 

I am unable to tell just by eye measurement and feel, but I do believe that the RS strap is ever so slightly bigger and pointier on the back ridge of the strap.

Another contributing factor is probably the lack of the transponder ID imprint that is present on the Stark back strap. This removes some of the grip texture and flattens and smoothens the surface when palmed.

 

I think you can kind of tell from this image what I mean about it beeing just a little bit pointier on the ridge;

 

 

Also looking at my pics on the previous page at least to my eyes I think I can see a slight differense in dimension / protrusion from the frame on the RS strap vs. Stark strap.

 

Basically, with the stock pistol and normal Stark strap, I could sit and hold / fondle the PPQ M2 for hours and just love it in my hand (hey hey!).

 

But since swapping to the RS strap I quickly get a slight discomfort and "pain" in the base of my palm where the RS backstrap ridge and texture puts pressure.

 

Sounds silly, but that's how it is.

 

I would have to take off the straps and measure them with calipers to make any sense of this, data wise, but it doesn't really matter, I can feel the difference.

 

Now... OCD problem.

 

The RS straps have no transponder markings. If I put on the stock Stark strap on (for comfort), with transponder markings, it won't match the two spare straps in the case, for looks... My oh my... what a world of pain I am in :|

 

I will probably end up putting the stock Stark medium strap back on, it just felt so much better in my hand. Also has better fit and finish to the pistol than the RS one does.

That was my original plan anyways, have the RS straps as box fillers and for show anyways. *fruitcage*it.

 

 

Also, another dissappointing thing. The trigger feels alot nicer on the Euro version. Now, I did stretch the trigger reset spring a little, but it didn't do _that_ much to it.

EDIT: Reading what I describe below it sounds awfully a lot like it is related to the spring tension. I guess I will stretch the Asia spring a little bit too. (why did that sound dirty...)

 

Basically, Euro trigger is a little heavier, crisper and cleaner break/snap and reset. Reset also feels slightly shorter.

 

Asia version is lighter, "mushier" (relatively speaking) and not as crisp reset.

 

What in the fuq have I done to myself....

[kenxin]

I believe the reset/crispness/whathaveyou is related to the shape of the trigger bar, might be worth to check that out

[NonEx]

My PPQ dreams have been shattered, fallen to the floor and been ###### on...

 

Remember this guy from a couple of pages back ?

 

 

 

http://arniesairsoft.co.uk/forums/index.php?/topic/210746-stark-arms-walher-ppq-m2-coming-soon/page-5&do=findComment&comment=2651443

 

 

Well, he and I can now start a club... FUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUUCK!

 

 

Just saw it today when fondling my Asia PPQ.

 

I knew as soon as I saw that guys post on Arms-Cool it was only a matter of time. Look at how fricken thin those slide walls are in that area. AAARGH!

 

Incidentally the outer barrel has a mark which matches the damage pretty well;

 

 

When the slide goes in and out of battery and drops/locks the barrel in place the two parts have too low tolerances and make contact. After repeated slide cycles this is what happens...

 

I guess it probably did not help me installing a TM stock (100%) recoil spring in my PPQ. But it doesn't really matter since the guy on arms-cool was running his in stock configuration.

 

My guess is that this is actually a common problem on the Stark PPQ, but many people probably don't even notice it, and the time it takes to occur might vary from pistol to pistol, but looking at the problem, and the thin slide walls, this is not isolated IMO.

 

Seriously dissappointing. I am wonder if A) Stark has realized this issue and fixed in later batches, or B ) If I order a new slide from Taiwan if I can mod the parts in such a way that this wont occur again.

 

This on top of the RS backstrap "fiasco" combined with my OCD has me in a seriously instable state right now, so sad and irritated

 

welp!

 

EDIT: Just shot off an e-mail to KIC asking if they know anything about this problem and/or if Umarex/Stark are aware and have fixed. Also asked if they can order spare slides

[hitmanNo2]

It looks to me like a bit of filing on the chamber (where it's marked) a la blank firing guns but not to their extent.  Just enough so that the slide is not slamming up against that edge.

[NonEx]

Yeah that's what I was thinking but wondering if that will really solve the problem for good. But it's a start I guess.

 

Here is a pic from the Arms-Cool guy of the inside of the slide;

 

 

Mine looks similar but with way less wear.

[icolater]

Damn! only notice that wear on mine as well, my European version doesn't look as bad though which is weird because I have shot that way more.

[Squad 701]

Hey NonEx,

 

WGC have PPQ (Asian Edition) slides for sale at $35 if this helps ?

 

I couldn't imagine they are new strengthened versions, as they probably would have made a note or selling point in the description,

more than likely they are aimed at people with European Versions looking for full trademarks, and get rid of their weakened slides into the bargain

 

Either way it's such a nice piece for the price, it does warrant a third-party slide and barrel from the likes of PGC or Shooters Design.

 

Cheers.

[NonEx]

Yeah I saw. I asked KIC about it as well see if they know anything if it has been acknowledged or fixed.

[NonEx]

Got confirmation from KIC that this is a known issue they have seen but the only solution as of now is to get a new slide for your PPQ.

 

Might go ahead and do that and try to smoothen out the barrel chamber and inside of the slide...

 

But still, the material is paper thin in that area so it won't take much to make it deform and/or crack.

[Mr Foxhound]

I tried the recommended holster, the IWI PPQ holster. It fits perfect but does not click in. Meaning I'm guessing the airsoft guns trigger guard is larger. Any thoughts on a way to fix it? Maybe sand down the locking mechanism? Seems like its just a hair off from locking in.,

[k30dxedle]

If it works like my IMI CZ 75 holster, there should be a pin that holds in the locking/release bit where you put your finger. Knock it out (1. make sure the spring under the locking piece doesn't fly off, 2. should otherwise be easy as mine was by no means a tight fit) and the locking piece should come out, at which point it can be sanded down.

[Redwense]

Hey all! I just bought my PPQ (Asia) today, and I love the look and how it feels in the hand. I heard great things about the RS trigger, and I guess the airsoft version is okay but not as smooth as I'd hoped (someone here mentioned it feeling like sandpaper), and it seems to reset quite far. It wobbles a bit too.

 

I have a couple of concerns:

 

The slide release on the right side is loose and kind of flops around. I read in a previous post that someone else was having this problem? It still works though, but I'm wondering if it's contributing to...

 

... the slide not always locking back with an empty mag. It locks back when I rack it manually, but 1/3 of the time it doesn't lock back when I shoot, and there are times when it won't lock back even after three or four shots in a row--all with an empty mag. What's going on? ):

[Mr Foxhound]

My right side slide release is also loose like that to.

 

About the cracking slide, do you think it would mess the gun up or is it mainly a cosmetic issue? I guess it would only be an issue if the crack gets bigger, but would it on a metal slide?

[NonEx]

Looking at the slide design and how thin it is I would say there is a pretty good chance of it developing into a bigger crack and eventually a catastrophic failure. Or perhaps it just cracks what is interfering and then it is fine, but I doubt it. Under recoil and what not I can't see it keeping together in the long run.

[Mr Foxhound]

How many rounds did you run through it before that happened anyways? I asked on Stark Arms Facebook about the crack issue but no response lol.

[NonEx]

None. Never fired. Just racked the slide manually, no more than 50-100 times, and that is a high estimate.

 

Doubt they will give you an official response. If they were going to it would have been out already since this is not exactly a new issue.

 

The slide design and mold is flawed, the material is litteraly like 0.25mm thick in that area...

 

Oh and by the way KIC offer spare slides for $32 USD.

[Mr Foxhound]

I think the barrel could also be the issue. That seems to be whats rubbing against it. Maybe its to thick?

[NonEx]

Glass is half full, half empty. Same *suitcase*.

 

Look at the pics above and check out the slide design and the walls in the top of the slide where the serated part is (center) and look at either side of it (inside). Barrel is fine, slide is *fruitcage*ed. But yes the slide breaks because it interferes with the barrel, but the slide is still the problem.

 

This is what the RS slide looks like inside. Just a tad bit more material...

 

 

Also, when easing the slide forward, the outer barrel does not touch the inside of the slide. However when going into battery with force, i.e. from shooting or using slide release, the barrel has enough play that it bounces up and hits and touches the inside of the slide.

[Mr Foxhound]

Damn. Doesn't seem like anyone has came up with a fix yet either. You have any ideas of anything that would fix or prevent it?

 

Alot of American sites are starting to get the gun like ASGI and Evike. I'm sure there not gonna be happy getting emails about cracked slides. lol. Its disappointing Stark wouldn't throughly test the gun to check the reliability. Sure the paintjob on my WE 1911 sucks but its still never had a cracked slide...

[NonEx]

Only thing I can think of is filing down the front edge of the outer barrel/chamber to minimize the interaction between the two parts, but doubtful it will be enough.

 

I plan on ordering a new slide next year and try to make it work, but I dunno :|

[Mr Foxhound]

Yeah. Seems like a new slide would be pointless with how fast it cracked for you.

 

Very disappointed in Stark-Arms right now. Even my WE is looking better in comparison. The fact it was released this way is very bad. I figured most company's would run alot of round through there GBBs to test something like this. But maybe I'm giving airsoft companies to much credit. lol. Mines already showing the same amount of wear as the Arms-Cool guy, so no doubt mine will crack soon. I never heard of this happening to there Glocks or M&PC's.

 

I could see it cracking after a while, after tons of rounds, and then understanding why they didn't notice. But racking the slide 50 times cracks it? How would they not notice that? Very bad QC on there part.

 

The only thing we can hope is an aftermarket slide that's a little thicker. Seems Stark wants to ignore this issue, and seems like its to late to be fixed with how many guns are in store around the world.

[hitmanNo2]

If only they let you beta test it NonEx.  All that finger banging is like accelerated torture testing ha ha.  You'll find problems in no time.

[NonEx]

Haha, yeah, damn right! Give me the stuff and I will tell you it's a piece of *suitcase* in 30 seconds or less

[Wingmann]

Only thing I can think of is filing down the front edge of the outer barrel/chamber to minimize the interaction between the two parts, but doubtful it will be enough.

It seems that the upward pressure from the outer barrel is causing the slide to crack, so I don't see why filing the top -and maybe top sides- of the barrel wouldn't work.