johnyew Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Not sure if it was full or not, I charged it until the flow noise stopped. Set it aside for 10 minutes before shooting test. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 either way it's good news for the 2 weeks of UK Summertime. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
harborne blue Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Regarding the lower fps valve, does we Europe sell them separately? Have a word with JD Airsoft - last time I was in there, Phil (owner) said that all the WE GBB rifles now come with a red valve / BBU that keeps FPS below 350. Apparently WE had a lot of issues with buyers wanting downgrades / stuffing things ups with DIY 'fixes'. 4 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Will send them an email, fingers crossed. Wonder how long they've been installing the red valve for UK/eu users. It was a while ago now that we first heard about a eu spec valve. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted October 29, 2015 Report Share Posted October 29, 2015 Since the creation of WE Europe, however only ones imported as wholesale. Not a few as a one off shipment like a few retailers do on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 I had a very disappointing day yesterday trying to field the P90 for the first time after all the preparation and test shooting I had done the week before sighting in and all. Packed up the P90 and 4 mags in a hard case and set it aside Saturday night. Woke up Sunday morning and went to the game site, got prepared for everything and topped up the mags; none were leaking as there was only an instant of flow noise and then stopped. However, did not test fire. Just loaded up the mags on my vest and headed out. Once in the site, inserted the mag, pulled back the cocking handle and fired a shot. BB only went 10 meters. WTF??!! Shot again, still 10 meters. SH**. Changed to another mag, same thing. Tried the rest of mags, same thing. 10 meters. FML. Why me? So, changed to my backup sniper rifle and tried to enjoy the rest of the day while trying to forget the P90 that's back in my car. Talked it over with a couple of guys playing that day and the general consensus of those guys, "That's WE for you!" SOB, FML. The things that I can think that's different between my test shooting and yesterday morning, 1. Indoor 26C temperature versus outdoor 24C 2. P90 was packed in a hard case and locked overnight I'll try to field it again this weekend and do it differently, soft case instead, and maybe leave the mags out in the sun for it to warm up. Sad day for me. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
3vi1-D4n Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 (edited) 10m? did it blow back? Sounds like either that the nozzle didn't close properly OR flute valve has been damaged. Edited November 2, 2015 by 3vi1-D4n Quote Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 That temperature difference shouldn't make any noticeable difference.1) What gas were you using? 2) Did you chrono the gun to see if it was underpowered or just under hopped? 3) How many shots were you able to fire? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Yeah that doesnt sound like a temp issue, 24c is more than warm enough. Id expect that if it was 4c but not 24. Id agree with the nozzle issue or the release valve being sticky. on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 10m? did it blow back? Sounds like either that the nozzle didn't close properly OR flute valve has been damaged. Yes, it did but almost all subsequent shots were double feed. I'll check it thoroughly tonight or tomorrow morning. Still feeling disappointed to do anything about it. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 That temperature difference shouldn't make any noticeable difference. 1) What gas were you using? 2) Did you chrono the gun to see if it was underpowered or just under hopped? 3) How many shots were you able to fire? 1. the exact same bottle of gas that I had used for the gas efficiency test as it was till more than half full. 2. Did not do any chrono immediately as I had a backup gun and wanted to play instead of tinkering with it. The gun was firing fine up to 40+ meters 2 days before and hop up was fine. 3. It did it on the first shot on every mag I had; all topped up with Top Gas/GG Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Yeah that doesnt sound like a temp issue, 24c is more than warm enough. Id expect that if it was 4c but not 24. Id agree with the nozzle issue or the release valve being sticky. on my phone, my spelling will suck Will update after a complete teardown and inspection. Probably tomorrow morning. Still feeling disappointed after yesterday. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 After having a quick play with mine yesterday, I was impressed with the recoil. Wasnt expecting anything but its pretty solid! Semi auto was nice and crisp. Don't know what everyone's on about with this stiff trigger... Auto wasn't as great, consistency was solid, few splutters but that could be down to the fact that it was the first mag, still full of grease n everything else. However short bursts where fine. ROF was no where near as high as the video WE released but wasnt far off. That said it was the first mag and it was cold. I was getting some little spurts of gas when changing mag but nothing serious. Mags are considerably lighter than I expected, happy about this. Accuracy and range appear to be just below what I get from my KWA Vector on .28gs, again down to a brand new hop and WE's shoddy design. I'll change this out before I play a game. Probably with a Maple Leaf 60 degree and Angry Gun Inner Barrel. Body is rock solid. No creaks, no bends no issues. A billion times better than all the AEG offerings, few mould lines but easily solved with a bit of wet and dry. Even though the upper is plastic, it doesn't feel like it, it is rear heavy but a metal RDS upper when released will rebalance it. I did try my old GB-Tech AEG upper on it, which does fit providing you remove the inner barrel and hop chamber however I think the AEG upper is a couple mm wider than the WE. If you wanted it to fit I expect some 3d printer or butchering would be required, so I will wait. Trigger mech itself looks very similar to the TM from the brief look I had. Over all for a brand new system I'm impressed. So far that is. I'll strip it down, degrease, re grease and polish up a few bits smooth out the action. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 So home now. Stripped it down, removed some grease, added some new grease, fully gassed a mag. VERY HAPPY. ROF is up, I think there was still some air in the mag before. Fired off about 200 rounds, managed two full mags on a full auto dump no cooldown 'locked back' then 20 odd low power shots. Then another mag through Trigger pull is actually considerably less than whats on the TM, possibly why I don't find the trigger an issue. Everytime I pick up the GB-Tech upper I want to mod it to fit..... It does slide on perfectly without the hop chamber fitted. If WE made the TR upper available nice n cheap id buy one to butcher One thing I really like the hammer design, simple but effective, no idea how close it is to the RS. Also like the bolt, far larger and heavier than I expected as well and it looks to be very well made. You can clearly see CNC marks, not sure what metal it is but it looks and feels very high quality. There are no steel parts except for the recoil rods and screws. Don't have a chrono yet but aside form that anyone got any questions the want answered? 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Habakure Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Were you tempted to keep the one you ordered for your mate? 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Very much so..... on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
blobface Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Bankz I think your best chance of getting it to fit is Jim @ LCs, the GB tech piece already has the majority of parts, the rest he could probably just machine out of a piece of aluminium to fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted November 2, 2015 Report Share Posted November 2, 2015 Jim @LCs? Yeah majority just not everything! on my phone, my spelling will suck Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 no idea how close it is to the RS. Other than being mostly plastic, it's kinda like an AK but reversed. The rear claw on the hammer is for the sear while the front is the disconnector. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) Update: Some, somewhat, good news. I took out the gun and magazine from the hardcase, topped up the mags and left it all in my living room overnight. Today during lunchtime, I test fired the gun and everything worked fine again until the second mag and the low power problem appeared again.Took apart the barrel/hopup assembly, bolt and nozzle and trigger pack. Inspected all of it and found nothing out of the ordinary. As Dan had mentioned, the flute valve might be sticking, so I gently took a jewelers screwdriver and pushed at the flute valve and it was able to move and spring back into position. However, I was unable to dismantle the nozzle as there wasn't any obvious screws holding the nozzle together and I didn't want to pry it open. Reassembled everything back together and test fired some more. The low power issue happened on the second mag again(different mag from initial test). Took out the mag, pulled back the charging handle and let the bolt/nozzle assembly slam home. Did this a few more times, reinsert the mag and the gun shot normally again. So, Dan was correct in his assessment. Thanks Dan!!! So now I had just sprayed some 'plastic safe' dry film lubricant into the nozzle and hopefully will tide me over until someone figures out how to disassemble the nozzle and get at the flute valve. Either that, or just remove the mag, work the charging handle a few times and reinsert mag. Bad news, 2 of my mags are leaking. One is leaking from the square end while the other are leaking from both the square end and output valve. Time to see if I have any plumbers tape left. ETA: 3 mags are now leaking from the output valve. Edited November 3, 2015 by johnyew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) It didn't seem like that in person, though it's really difficult to get pictures of it all inside the trigger box. Even more so because I coulsnt figure out how to drop the hammer fully without it being inside the gun in the few minutes I had it disassembled. I found the way to drop the hammer fully when out of the gun. There's a 'lever' that you have to push down, located on the front right hand side of the trigger pack and lets the hammer drop fully. Edited November 3, 2015 by johnyew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) You mean left hand side, opposite the gas coupler which is on the right. To remove the nozzle you need to remove the two recoil spring guide assemblies first as they block the nozzle guides. Remove those (one on each side) and the pin holding the nozzle return spring and the nozzle should pop right out. Edited November 3, 2015 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 If the trigger pack placed in front of you, hammer on the left, the 'lever' is on the right. There's only one piece that you can push/pull down and it springs back into position. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) You mean left hand side, opposite the gas coupler which is on the right. To remove the nozzle you need to remove the two recoil spring guide assemblies first as they block the nozzle guides. Remove those (one on each side) and the pin holding the nozzle return spring and the nozzle should pop right out. I was able to remove the nozzle but could not remove the flute valve from within the nozzle. ETA: Or does the flute valve come out through the front of the nozzle? Just have to remove the cross pin? Edited November 3, 2015 by johnyew Quote Link to post Share on other sites
renegadecow Posted November 3, 2015 Report Share Posted November 3, 2015 (edited) My bad. I thought you were talking about the mag disconnect safety. But when orienting with firearms the gun is always situated so that the muzzle is pointing away from the shooter. Edit: It's possible to remove the front half of the nozzle without having to remove the whole thing from the carrier, but from my experience it's a major *badgeress* to get back together particularly in threading through the return spring. Edited November 3, 2015 by renegadecow Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.