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The Complete APS 2/96 Thread


The Chef

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right, so i was giving my well/warrior l96 (mb-01) a quick clean through. I came to cleaning the hop-up, opened it up, and found no bucking :/

 

ive never opened the hop-up before, so theres no chance of me losing it before hand. anyone else had this problem or is it ment to be this way :/ ???

 

SP_A0188.jpg

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Zero trigger installed, it was so eazy. Talk about a smooth trigger pull.

 

They're awesome - although as they're now running at £170 over here I'm considering stipping down my 96 for parts rather than keeping it. INSANE prices for PSS96 stuff...:lol:

 

I found that even with an M160 or so the trigger pull with a zero trigger is just perfect. One thing I haven't tried is really powerful springs so I have no idea about the actual performance or durability at beyond 280% for target shooting.

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I got mine for $170 shipped from HK. It really does pay to shop overseas places. £170 is way too much to pay if you ask me but you'll never have to upgrade it again. I looked at my UTG trigger and it was metal except the body was plastic. Not sure about the internals though, might dig into it to find a fix. I wonder if a metal body for it would make it better or close to the King Arms trigger. I'm thinking of trying to push 550 fps for my local fields but I won't cry and try to squeeze out every single fps so if I get above 520 i'll be happy.

 

Hey Slim did you do the PDI hop up and barrel? I'm still debating that route now because of the price.

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Yeah, I did that in about 2005 I think. Worked pretty nicely but I couldn't ever get it to stop hooking which is more indicative of my lack of patience than any particular failing with the PDI hop. I only used a Prometheus barrel however, and it was a 650mm version so I think that with something closer to the original length (and of course being a 6.01) then the results would probably be good.

 

I didn't like the two hop arms which neccessitated a bit of modding (glued them together) and a new hop rubber (section of washing line) but simply because there started to be too many variables when you considered seating the barrel properly in the hop as well. Lots of people have had really good results with the PDI and I'm pretty certain that if I were hanging onto my '96 I'd go that route again.

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dont write yourself off on the PDI hop issue, slim...

 

ive got one, had it for months, and its never been right.

 

so i thought, as ive got a sniper-training weekend next week, i would spend saturday sorting it.

 

this spilled over into sunday.

 

and into monday (which i have off thanks to the credit crunch...)

 

its still hooking, and ive butchered everything in sight for new hop buckings. must have stripped/rebuilt her 20+ times, and used 4 types of ammo, close to 800 rounds through it these last 3 days.

 

and its got a PDI 6.01 barrel too, 495mm.

 

i. hate. this. hop. unit.

 

it properly, properly drives me to rage, and about a month ago i had it stripped down and a sledgehammer out to sort it once and for all. the only thing that stopped me was the previously mentioned wage-cut cos i didnt want to splash out on experimenting with different units.

 

minijosh, i hear good things about the standard maruzen hop it you tweak it a bit.

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I think the big problem with the L96 isn't the hop-up itself, exactly. It's locating the barrel in the hop-up.

 

The key to fixing the hooking is you need to buy a replica muzzle-break for the gun.

Why?

Well, you get yourself an inner barrel long enough to poke through the end of the barrel and into the muzzle break by about an inch.

You then remove the muzzle break (so the inner barrel is poking out the front of the muzzle) and shoot the gun.

The BB will curve one way or the other.

Grab the end of the inner barrel and twist it slightly one way or the other.

Repeat until gun is shooting straight.

Replace muzzle break to hide inner barrel.

 

Job done. ;)

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i had a little luck with the pdi hopunit (which i bought from slim), but it didnt last long, as like everyone else, i couldnt get it to shoot dead on straight,after changing it for a different weight bb.

i finaly gave up and went back to the origional hopunit/barrel.

 

stealth i think your right about that, i found that if i stripped the hopunit i would have to playaround taking it out and re fitting it to make sure the barrel was 100% straight, that and the fact that they decided to make the fixing hole on the outer barrel 3x too big, so that also made it hook if it wasnt dead straight.

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Thats all I use.

 

I've tried every single aftermarket hop for the 96 (including a Firefly setup with Kurage packings) and the stock hop with a tightbore is the best. All I ever do is threadlock the grub screw, set to whatever weight of BB I want, and leave it to achieve full strength (2 hrs normally).

 

Then I just re-check the hop, check the zero, and I'm away for as long as I want to stay with that weight of ammo. Its not ideal but with limited cash at the moment I won't be getting a RealSword SVD, and the '96 has every upgrade available so its not as if its awful - just very tempramental at times.

 

I'd like to have another go with a PDI (I have a mk2 flash eliminator) but to be fair its just desperation rather than common sense talking and I need to flog the '96 parts in order to fund repairs to my MSG (needs a new barrel, hop rubber, wiring, spring).

 

Ain't life grand :lol:

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That one I haven't tried - if I get chance to pick one up with a PDI barrel (or something similar) I'd certainly like to try one out :)

Meh,

 

HP hop-up isn't really anything special IMO.

It's a strange blend of classy touches and utter mediocrity.

The body is nice and thick and the 3 allen screws locate the barrel very securely.

It's machined from a lump of brass bar and they've gone t the effort of machining an internal O-ring groove at either end, to seal the nozzle and to locate the sleeve that holds the barrel.

By contrast the U-shaped notch in the hop-arm is hand filed. On mine it was filed wonky.

The slot (in the top of the hop-up) where the bucking goes is milled using a router about 5mm diameter and, as a result, the hole is oval and there's plenty of room for the bucking to move from side to side.

If you were going to use one of these you'd be better off making a bucking about twice the length of a normal one. Forget about using H or fishbone buckings too. There's no guarantee it'll stay in the correct place.

 

Basically, you gotta hand it to the guy who makes these. The quality of craftsmanship scores about an 8/10. Unfortunately the design really doesn't do much to improve on the original.

 

Personally, I reckon the next big thing in T96 hop-ups will be one with a simple grub screw in the top, for adjusting the hop, that requires the owner to drill a neat hole in the top of their outer barrel to adjust it.

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i might have to try one myself i feel...

 

as those in the know, due to the design of the PDI, you cant just twist the barrel to stop hooking, because of the bloody grub screws that hold the barrel into the hop, and the flat points on the PDI barrels that these screws locate onto!

 

gah.

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hmm, never tried one.

 

heard good things though. if its in stock, and you can afford to try it (ie buy another if you dont like it) then go for it.

 

but, on the other hand, if a better barrel is out of stock, but due in, maybe go for that...

 

after all, a snipers' hardest lesson is learning patience :P

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Meh,

 

HP hop-up isn't really anything special IMO.

It's a strange blend of classy touches and utter mediocrity.

The body is nice and thick and the 3 allen screws locate the barrel very securely.

It's machined from a lump of brass bar and they've gone t the effort of machining an internal O-ring groove at either end, to seal the nozzle and to locate the sleeve that holds the barrel.

By contrast the U-shaped notch in the hop-arm is hand filed. On mine it was filed wonky.

The slot (in the top of the hop-up) where the bucking goes is milled using a router about 5mm diameter and, as a result, the hole is oval and there's plenty of room for the bucking to move from side to side.

If you were going to use one of these you'd be better off making a bucking about twice the length of a normal one. Forget about using H or fishbone buckings too. There's no guarantee it'll stay in the correct place.

 

Basically, you gotta hand it to the guy who makes these. The quality of craftsmanship scores about an 8/10. Unfortunately the design really doesn't do much to improve on the original.

 

Personally, I reckon the next big thing in T96 hop-ups will be one with a simple grub screw in the top, for adjusting the hop, that requires the owner to drill a neat hole in the top of their outer barrel to adjust it.

 

Ah, fair enough. I wasn't aware of the shortcomings of the unit so I guess it suffers somewhat from the same production syndrome as the Firefly - which is machined of solid brass and made to fantastic tolerances....but it's simply not a great design.

 

I suppose I could stay with the original - the performance increases over that with a 6.03mm barrel compared to anything else with a 6.01 are marginal at best and probably not worth worrying about simply because of the issues with the design of the hops themselves.

 

 

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