Dusk Posted April 14, 2007 Report Share Posted April 14, 2007 Where can I locate a BGS hopup bucking, and nozzle kit? Evike is sold out, probably for good. Link to post Share on other sites
magictomcat Posted April 15, 2007 Report Share Posted April 15, 2007 its not sold out anymore i think (at least its not riwritten sold out anymore) http://store.matrixbb.com/servlet/-strse-2...d-Nozzle/Detail but dont buy on evike,you wont receive anything most of teh time... wich country are you in?i could sell you one new Link to post Share on other sites
Dist Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 Where can I locate a BGS hopup bucking, and nozzle kit? Evike is sold out, probably for good. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> read the last few pages of this thread. Link to post Share on other sites
Dusk Posted April 16, 2007 Report Share Posted April 16, 2007 Got it.. Sorry i was being lazy. haha My Tanaka should be fairly good when I'm finished. 6.01 tight bore, BGS kit, G&G constancy springs on the mags, Custom o-ring bushings on the barrel. Good stuff.. Do you guys think an aluminum barrel block would increase accuracy at all? Link to post Share on other sites
magictomcat Posted April 17, 2007 Report Share Posted April 17, 2007 barrel block?you mean hopup chamber? what are these custom oring?where exactly did you put them? Link to post Share on other sites
Lông Trắng Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 has anyone experienced a drastic upward curve of their rounds? I use TM.3's and SIIS .33s with the best gun hop up. The round does not deviate left or right, but at distances it will curve straight up... Link to post Share on other sites
liquidflorian Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 has anyone experienced a drastic upward curve of their rounds? I use TM.3's and SIIS .33s with the best gun hop up. The round does not deviate left or right, but at distances it will curve straight up... <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I have, I was thinking about trimming down the bucking but if their is some better idea of a solution I'm all ears..... Link to post Share on other sites
magictomcat Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 hop up is set to minimum? otherwise,use heavier bbs or more power(more fps) Link to post Share on other sites
liquidflorian Posted April 18, 2007 Report Share Posted April 18, 2007 hop up is set to minimum? otherwise,use heavier bbs or more power(more fps) <{POST_SNAPBACK}> yeah, for me, I'm using .3's with the hop all the way off. Would heavier bbs help that? Link to post Share on other sites
firewolf Posted April 19, 2007 Report Share Posted April 19, 2007 could someone please explain how silencer adapters work for the aics? how do you remove the old one and replace it? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites
Dusk Posted April 20, 2007 Report Share Posted April 20, 2007 on my 700(Not an AICS) I just stick a allen wrench into it and by using leverage and friction it pulls out. The barrel cap on the m700 is just a aluminum plug with orings for friction. The Silencer adapter just plugs right in. Link to post Share on other sites
Danjoswal Posted April 21, 2007 Report Share Posted April 21, 2007 on my 700(Not an AICS) I just stick a allen wrench into it and by using leverage and friction it pulls out. The barrel cap on the m700 is just a aluminum plug with orings for friction. The Silencer adapter just plugs right in. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I changed my inner barrel and had to cut it down to the length of the stock outer barrel and as it had no o-rings the end cap fell out less than a minute into the skirmish I found the end cap eventually tho Just trying to find a way of keeping the damn thing on now... Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted April 21, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 21, 2007 teflon tape.... the saviour of everything airsoft. Link to post Share on other sites
Carrion Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 ive just obtained a m700 takedown and have a few quesitons about it. Are the other tanaka magazinbes compatible? such as the m40 and m24 ones. i ask simply so i know if any come up second hand which i can snaffle up so i get more than 10 rounds before reloading also the joining point on mine is the source of a little wobble. any ideas of a fix? i was thingking of a combination of teflontape on the thread to pack it out slightly coupled with a little electrical tape on the meeting faces again to pack it out slightly. im considering a silencer on it for when i use it at LFU and want some info on if it is realy needed in urban games or if it wont help much at all. i also have the upgrade gas bolt with it (it has the stock bolt in it at the moment) i am just wondering what kind of power levels it puts out at a max and minimum for 134a and green gas with a .2 in FPS as if its at supid power levels at the minimum im going to hand the bolt into the police. also what kind of magnification scope would be better suited to urban with a possibilityy of open ish woodland. do i want a variable magnification scope with a tighter view angle or do i want a wider view at a fixed zoom say 1.5 or 2X recomendations would be nice as im not realy a scope kinda person normaly and my past rifle was an SVD so i was using the russian optics . please consider i am short sighted and like the scope to be quite close to the rear opf the rifle to get the correct view distance. ta for any help Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 Guess the silencer would have to be one of the short versions to avoid it being way too long for urbanised sniping. The ideas for packing it out sound worth a try. I can't tell you for sure, but think the bolt with 134a gas will be at a fine power level (under 500fps). If you don't like scopes then get a red dot sight for urban games where fast target acquisition will be the order of the day much of the time. They won't give you the same problems of tunnel vision either. If you want a scope get the lowest magnification you can with a decent field of view. I can see the outer barrel through my optic on 1.5 magnification, even though the scope is high mounts. Both types of magazines for tanaka m700 rifles will work in it. The Hop is different from the other m700 designs and may require you modify it to get the best results/enough hop. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Carrion Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 ta for the replies. ive packed it out on the thread using ine turn of elecy tape and thats made the join rock soiliud how ever i an see that the bit after the join is also slightly loose casueing barrel wobble (the lose join compounded the issue before so i didnt see it) how would i go about removing the handguard to either see whats causing the loseness and tighten it up or again pack it out so make it rock solid and steady. at the mo i get 8-9 mm of movement and i want it perfect as for the hop i would be using strait .36s or grand master ,43s. will the hop be ok for them or am i looking at a differnt hop rubber? Link to post Share on other sites
magictomcat Posted April 22, 2007 Report Share Posted April 22, 2007 I think its not strong enough for .36 can you find a spare rubber? and keep in mind that you will need to shoot several hundred shots before the hop does its job correctly i want to impove my M700 accuracy as much as possible,I've already shimmed every loose peice (trigger,mag....),how could I improve the consistency? will a 6.01 help?Do you think removing the PCS will help (it work on CO2 so i can adjust the pressure)? Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted April 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 Carrion, Its been a while since I've been in a Take-Down... IIRC, the front sling swivel will take the handguard off, just unscrew it. The hop housing should locate quite solidly, and whilst the hop rubber is the same as every other M700, the way it actuates is different (horizontally as opposed to vertically in all other M700's). Silencers do make a big difference to a gas rifle. Recommend them on it anyday. You choice as to which though. Power levels... You'll get approx 500fps with Green gas (sometimes a little more in the summer), but everything else goes below this, I think 134 is about 370 (been a while since I used it though). For urban, definietly use a red-dot. They work fantastically. If you can find one, get a red-dot that has the 2x optical doubler. Its probably just enough mag to assist with a difficult shot. All mags are compatible, including the long 29 rnd ones, although some have recorded less consistency with them than the short mags. Odd but true. .36's will be fine. If you use green I would even go as far to say .43 are still good. Whilst the hop rubber isnt the most consistant of parts, it is very hard wearing and doesnt suffer from tears at high power or heavy weight ammo. If you get really stuck, I know someone with a TD, so I can have a nose at that. Link to post Share on other sites
magictomcat Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 can you post some pictures of the hop of mecanism of the takedown? I have an M700 and I was thinking about swaping to a takedown,will I lose accuracy/consistency? thx sebastien Link to post Share on other sites
Carrion Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 right ive for the pins out and inow i cant detach the mounting bracket from the rest opf teh forgrip the front end is totaly free. ive worked out whats up, its hte bit which the mount scres into is lose and needs nipping up. i will probably pack it out with some tape as well for the rock soild feel im after Link to post Share on other sites
Carrion Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 got it all sorted now. turns out the 2 scres which secures the grip to the palte were loose as hell which caused alot of shift in the foregrip which was transfered to the barrel and made worse by the loseness of the barrel attachment thingy. all tightened up and sorted. i did discover that its a sod to get together wne its all tight so ive made 2 little holes to allow the outer barrel to be fitted when the screws are slack and then a smalls crewdriver can be put in to them to tighten them up holdingt he front tned together nicly. now all i need is to get to a game and sort the hop out and power levels. so going back to ammo. you say the hop isnt "strong" enough for .36s or .43s. would your recomend .2s or .25 or .3s in it then. im after accuracy at long ranges not point blank. also about scopes. i put my red dot on and it sucks ill be getting ascope and rings at some point Link to post Share on other sites
The Chef Posted April 23, 2007 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 The hop is fine for the heavier weight ammo's. I have only ever used 36's or 43's through mine. Sticking to 36's because it gives me commonality with my sidearm ammo. Link to post Share on other sites
Carrion Posted April 23, 2007 Report Share Posted April 23, 2007 ta for all the advice now to sort out a rifle wrap. Link to post Share on other sites
TDS Posted April 24, 2007 Report Share Posted April 24, 2007 you say the hop isnt "strong" enough for .36s or .43s. would your recomend .2s or .25 or .3s in it then. im after accuracy at long ranges not point blank. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No gun fires perfectly straight at all ranges, it has nothing to do with how strong the hop is, at long range you do have to aim beyond centering your scope on a target and pulling the trigger. Link to post Share on other sites
mr7q Posted April 26, 2007 Report Share Posted April 26, 2007 Are KJW mags compatible with the Tanakas? I'd love some cheap spares, but don't feel like dropping $40 on an experiment when I can ask a stupid question for free. Link to post Share on other sites
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