Danjoswal Posted March 26, 2007 Report Share Posted March 26, 2007 Evike is the only other retailer i know that do them, there may well be more. It's worth getting them through Best Gun Shop though. I was thinking if there was enough interest i could buy a load of hop rubbers and hop units etc from BGS as i'm in contact with them regularly now, and sell them to those who need them on this forum. I know it means there is a middle man but postage costs would be cut right down since i'd be buying in bulk(ish) and i could sell individual rubbers to those who only want/can afford one. What do you think? good idea or not? Don't be afraid to tell me if its a sh*t idea! Dan Link to post Share on other sites
fuze Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 It's probably not a bad idea, but i think I will to order some from evike because a need them as fast as possible. Link to post Share on other sites
Danjoswal Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 It's probably not a bad idea, but i think I will to order some from evike because a need them as fast as possible. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'll warn you that i've read that evike isn't very good at getting orders right, delivering on time, has bad customer service, and usually don't have the bgs stuff in stock. I'ts probably not worth the hassle. Dan Link to post Share on other sites
fuze Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Well I have already placed the order so I hope there won't be any problems. Link to post Share on other sites
Danjoswal Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Well I have already placed the order so I hope there won't be any problems. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Ok best of luck to ya buddy Link to post Share on other sites
simonpiemon Posted March 27, 2007 Report Share Posted March 27, 2007 Well I have already placed the order so I hope there won't be any problems. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> you may well find that it will just turn up on your door in about 2 weeks time. best of luck, i never had any contact with them after i had payed for the goods and recieved no confirmation of anything. I tell you this so that you are prepared, i dont want to scare you. Link to post Share on other sites
Matthais_31 Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Hi guys; Im having serious problems with my M700 AICS, in that the bolt has become absolutely rediculously stiff to cock, as in so hard it feels like something is going to break. Seeing as a week ago it was cocking extrememly lightly, im somewhat worried; especially with town assault 2 days away!! By cocking I mean lifting the bolt handle upwards; not pulling the bolt back - doing that is fine! Initially I thought it was something to do with the trigger mech, so I lubed that up, and did the bolt at the same time. Having done so however, the bolt has only gotten worse! There are no foreign objects within the bolt, although the rear, smaller spring that sits closest to the cocking lever had become warped - and I am not sure why. I have returned it to its previous shape, but the problem still remains and I have no idea why or what is wrong. I have completely stripped it, and everything seems like its in the right place... Any help would be much appreciated, as I really dont know what to do next. Cheers Matthais_31 Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Harsh. Don't use silicone lube on metal on metal parts. I only use it for the rubber parts. I use ABBEY gun grease for metal on metal friction. Sounds like you have a roblem inside the bolt but not sure where. The_Chef will probably know Link to post Share on other sites
simonpiemon Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 did you undo the screw which holds the big spring into bolt? you can access it when you take the pcs bit of so that the bolt splits in half, if you have, im guessing you have tightened it up all the way. it is likely this is why it is stiffer if you have tightened it up, when i stripped the bolt down and lubed everything up, i noticed this too. it will also give you more power. Have you cleaned it? if you have stripped it an covered it in grease/oil, if there is something in there like worn bits of metal/sand it will still make it difficult to lift due to the friction. Link to post Share on other sites
{MIA}Gmac Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 I doubt they will change it, the Jap Law expressly states that they cannot be made to fire over 1J. The PCS clearly allows this. Oh well.... shame really, the PCS was fantastic. Hopefully some aftermarket PCS bolt will come out. Or custom nozzles all round. I wouldnt hold your breath on the Kar98.... I can only see that going the same way. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Tanaka are now making an export only model available to special order, but unfortunately they think it adequate just to send it out with a standard unrestricted bolt with no PCS. ( I had thought it was going to have the adjuster as well but I misunderstood my Japanese ) I may order some to see if they are still going to come with the original bolt casting which might allow the possibility of re-machining the blank parts. Has anybody had a direct from japan AICS recently ? Link to post Share on other sites
Moving_Shadow Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Hi guys; Im having serious problems with my M700 AICS, in that the bolt has become absolutely rediculously stiff to cock, as in so hard it feels like something is going to break. Seeing as a week ago it was cocking extrememly lightly, im somewhat worried; especially with town assault 2 days away!! By cocking I mean lifting the bolt handle upwards; not pulling the bolt back - doing that is fine! Initially I thought it was something to do with the trigger mech, so I lubed that up, and did the bolt at the same time. Having done so however, the bolt has only gotten worse! There are no foreign objects within the bolt, although the rear, smaller spring that sits closest to the cocking lever had become warped - and I am not sure why. I have returned it to its previous shape, but the problem still remains and I have no idea why or what is wrong. I have completely stripped it, and everything seems like its in the right place... Any help would be much appreciated, as I really dont know what to do next. Cheers Matthais_31 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I had this problem, and it turned out to be the rear screw that fixes the stock to the reciever, it sticks up just very very slightly too far and catches the end piece of the bolt, making it almost impossible to cock, try unscrewing the bolt that holds the rear end of the reciever to the stock, and see if this solves the problem. Link to post Share on other sites
Matthais_31 Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Hi all, Good idea moving shadow, but the problem persists when the bolt is out of the rifle as well :S Having double checked I can also confirm that it is not the stock bolt getting in the way. As for the bolt - everything was working fine with the G+G Striker spring and cocking peice in place for around a month; but now its started going tits up! Everything is screwed in correctly; all I can think of is that the spring is now more tense, making it more difficult to cock; but then I would have had difficulty re-assembling the bolt if this were the case.... I shall keep on investigating; thanks for the ideas so far - any more will be greatly appreciated! Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted March 28, 2007 Report Share Posted March 28, 2007 Incase anyone here cares, I got a non-restricted PCS A.I.C.S. from GnG. Link to post Share on other sites
Matthais_31 Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 It appears that the spring has just become remarkably difficult to operate! I swapped out the G+G spring and cocking indicator for the stock ones, and its perfectly fine, albeit less powerful and consistant. The stock spring and the G+G cocking indicator work together, but is somewhat stiffer than when using the stock indicator, but as soon as you introduce the G+G spring into the equation it just becomes rediculous, and I have no idea why this sudden change would have occured! An Link to post Share on other sites
simonpiemon Posted March 29, 2007 Report Share Posted March 29, 2007 it is a lot difficult to move due to the increase in friction that the G&G spring will exert onto the working parts, in principal it is the same as pushing an empty box across a table, this is similar to that of the stock spring. Filling the box with heavy objects increases the the friction making you need to exert more force to puch the box, this in effect is what the G&G spring is doing. a bit irrelevant but you may find it interesting. The way to reduce the friction is by using ample amounts of grease on it. dont flood it as it will get everywhere Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Is there a way to reduce the wobble of the bolt when you pull it all the way back? Link to post Share on other sites
Matthais_31 Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 Right fixed it! Decided after much head scratching that there couldnt phsyically be anything wrong with the bolt - it was all there, all locating properly etc. Bit the bullet, sprayed it with WD40 and now it works fine! Turns out silicone, as mentioned previously, is not a great fan of metal on metal lubrication. So there you have it. A simple solution - shame it took me so long to figure it out Link to post Share on other sites
L4byr1nth Posted March 30, 2007 Report Share Posted March 30, 2007 ... A.I.C.S. ftw!! Ben. Link to post Share on other sites
Hightech Redneck Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 Okay quick question. How do you remove and replace the air nozzle on the Tanaka M700. I have done the BGS rubber gimmick and now need the extended nozzle of which I have the KA one and the one from BGS, but the part appears machined on. Any help would be appreciated. Link to post Share on other sites
Moving_Shadow Posted April 2, 2007 Report Share Posted April 2, 2007 Its only held in by friction, so if you just spray some WD40 around the nozzle, then wiggle it out with a pair of plyers, it should work its way free. Link to post Share on other sites
Danjoswal Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 I wouldn't risk using WD40 tho, It corrodes the rubber seals which is why silicon lube is so widely used in airsoft. I just pulled mine out with pliers, and used the little white plastic bit that came with the BGS hop to cover the end of the extended nozzle when i hammered it in. Link to post Share on other sites
r.ocelot Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Soo...I'm the only one with the bolt wobbling problem? Link to post Share on other sites
specter328 Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 Soo...I'm the only one with the bolt wobbling problem? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> No, even real M700s have some play in the bolt when its opened. Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted April 4, 2007 Report Share Posted April 4, 2007 The bolt wobbling is not an issue as you only need to pull it back far enough to seat the next pellet. Only time you need to pull it further back is to change magazines. Because when it is pulled back and only the end of the bolt is holding it in, there is leverage and hence the wobble/play. Just accept it Link to post Share on other sites
Leshy Posted April 5, 2007 Report Share Posted April 5, 2007 How easy is it to change the inner barrel of the aics with a KM one? Anyone got any guides or photos to show? Link to post Share on other sites
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