The Bushman Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 I would highly recommend just getting a real tree, or, advantage, gun sock. Maybe treat yourself to a cheek comb if you want to customise the firing position. 2 of the 6mm Hunter team use LTR with gunsocks. Then tie some camo round and fit elastic bands for local grass/ferns. Can't recommend this highly enough; as avoiding being spotted, is far more important, than having a gucci looking bolt action rifle. I have seen many people come and go in the Airsoft sniper scene and my best advice to all players, is to go for effectiveness and practicality, over "looks".... everytime. Being effective, will keep you interested in this aspect of the sport, so aim to be effective and the opponents nemisis. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Dan B Posted November 26, 2011 Report Share Posted November 26, 2011 @The Bushman See one of the reasons why I got the L.T.R. initially was for the looks of the wooden stock (Foolish, I know... ) but I'm finding it doesn't suit my style of play. Ideally I'd like a lighter stock for running around, as I find I tend to be on the move a lot more than I probably should as a sniper... I also just like the idea of spraying a tacticool pattern on my gun I've heard of people shaping stocks out of high density foam, and then coating them in fibreglass. I like the sound of this because it means I'm not restricted to the basic M700 shape, and could base it on another stock shape altogether. Does this sound like a recipe for disaster or something worth trying? Dan Link to post Share on other sites
scar527 Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 Well as long as you don't mod your original stock I don't see why not. you mess up horribly, you still have your original stock. You don't mess up, you have a super cool custom one. Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 You need to copy the inside dimensions of your existing stock onto the one you intend to form/chisel out. The key is getting the stock to tension properly to the m700 mechanism, so that the mags feed properly and have tight gas route. However, you do realise the L.T.R. stands for "light tactical rifle" and is the lightest stock you can get for any tanaka model? You may struggle to save much weight and still have durability. I would still just use the original, fit a cheek comb and gun sock.... but that's just me. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Leshy Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 Dan, if I were you I would do nothing for six months. I don't think you have given yourself enough time to adapt to a traditional bolt action. Spend your money in gas and ammo, if it's a weight issue try reducing your tactical kit. Has anyone tried Mapp gas in this yet? I'm running it in my m4 gbbr and 1911 and I've had a 25% power increase. I don't need to increase my m700's power as it's already chucking out .43 @ 3.3j on propane. Mapp might improve consistency at winter it would be an intersting experiment. Xao Link to post Share on other sites
Dan B Posted November 27, 2011 Report Share Posted November 27, 2011 Thanks for the replies I was under the impression that a synthetic stock would be lighter than a wooden one, simply because, well it's plastic really... To be honest, I think I just need to adapt the role of a sniper a lot more than I do. I'm probably more suited to a DMR type rifle, which would suit my style of play a lot more. But bolt action rifles are just so nice... I'll give it a couple of months, then I'll see if I need to think about changing my stock, or my rifle... Dan Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 My tanaka M40a1 is 45g heavier than the LTR. OK, my rifle's inner and outer barrel, are slightly longer, than the LTR. My m40a1 stock is super light, but the LTR stock is not much heavier. I doubt you will save much weight, if you make a new stock for the LTR. My advice for any tanaka m700 user, is to fit the VSR hop conversion kit and 9ball rubber, along with the G&G powerpack (but not the hammer spring). Fit a barrel of your choice. This will give you a far more stable and accurate platform. That, in itself makes you far more effective and negates the need for higher magazine capacity, or semi auto. Your first round, simply hits the target. With a rifle that only holds 11 shots (less than basicly any other gun on the typical gaming field) you need accuracy and to use tactics. Simply running around or getting into firefights, will soon leave you out of pellets and therefore ineffective for part of the game. Tanaka magazines are expensive, so something you need to get used to doing, is holding fire, until you have the best chance of a hit. This is an important lesson to learn. I think you need to stick at it and try to adapt your style of play. Slow down more and try to out think opponents, without having to, out run, or, out gun them. Save weight, by perhaps, not having a bipod and choose an optic, with smaller (higher quality) lens. But please don't feel like I am telling what to do.... I'm just saying what I would, perhaps, do. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Dan B Posted November 28, 2011 Report Share Posted November 28, 2011 Sure, I get what you mean. Thanks, all good advice. I'll try and use some different tactics at my next game. Dan Link to post Share on other sites
Leshy Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 Finaly got my M700 upgraded with the VSR kit, but got confused on the hop and bought a Firefly hard, I know 9ball is considered the best but in the meantime I have a spare King arms hop. Do you think its worth my while installing this till I can get my hands on a 9ball? The firefly is giving me very little hop 30m max range which is pretty poor considering my BGS hop was ranging 97m. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted January 28, 2012 Report Share Posted January 28, 2012 You have other problem, it's not the bucking. I'm having more than 30m range without hop at all (on propane)! Check the sears adjustment or impropper instalation of the bucking. I had a firefly bucking ripped at 100 shots!! I always used 9ball hard bucking in my AICS and I have the BGS installed in my Police, but I can't deside which is better! Both are equally good if tuned properly. Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Im now having problems with my Tanaka M24. It started half way through some test firing yesterday. Prior, the trigger mech was taken apart but nothing was changed and it worked stellar for the first 50 shots after. When I try to cock the gun, the bolt will sometimes lock forward and be unable to pull back until I pull the trigger. I notice when it does this, the "firing pin indicator" at the rear of the bolt will not be pulled back all the way and when the trigger is pulled, there seems to almost be a two stage release. I pull the trigger lightly and it goes a bit forward, then all the way when I pull hard and most of the time, the knocker wont release any of the gas or it will light strike. Some of the time, the bolt wont even cock at all when cycled. There are times it will cock all the way but the same thing happens UNLESS I put pressure on the top of the bolt and push down. It will fire normally then. Ive tried adjusting the trigger screws and no setting works at all, even when I have tried to adjust the sear height. Im confused though, is it the sear or the knocker that catches the bolt? Any help will be usefull! Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Try to pull the bolt back, engage the safety, push the bolt forward disengage safety and fire... I bet now works good! If it's that what's happenning it's problem with the sear/ sear spring. Disassemble and check for any mistakes durring reasembly. Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 8, 2012 Report Share Posted February 8, 2012 Just tried it and it still has the problem. It is cocking all the way back now it seems, at least the times I tried it today with and without the "safety test". But it is still letting the bolt release half way and then all the way. It is really strange. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 I've never encountered this problem, I wish I could help. I had problem with stuck bolt when I installed the Power Pack striker spring! If you have it you too try to install the stock striker spring. Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted February 9, 2012 Report Share Posted February 9, 2012 I have always tried to warn people that the striker spring really increases wear. Stay clear of it. My tanaka is still running really nicely on the stock hammer spring and has done maybe just under 5000 rounds. The stock hammer spring can still damage the valve knocker (hammer) and impact plates though. Sounds like your problem is certainly inside the trigger mechanism. Watch this http://youtu.be/d3BfmijK6oM might help. Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Well, it seems to be working now. It actually had little to do with the trigger which is strange as it really did seem like it would be the issue. A friend came over who had many parts from a KJW, Tanaka, and G&G. We tried swapping triggers but it resulted in the same thing. I put my bolt in his Tanaka L96 and it seemed to work fine. We basically swapped parts in our bolts and now both guns work for some reason. We isolated the issue being to the back part of the bolt. When I tried putting my origional back portion on the bolt combination I had, I began having the same issued, but as soon as I put the back piece of his bolt back on, it worked just fine. Very strange. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted February 10, 2012 Report Share Posted February 10, 2012 Then maybe the cocking piece has too much of wear. You can try the G&G cocking piece. It's much easier to work on the bolt than with the trigger mech! Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
tacosanche Posted February 11, 2012 Report Share Posted February 11, 2012 Hey if you any of you guys are interested, I have a whole youtube channel with my latest videos being all about my kjw/tanaka/g&g gas rifle. I have comparisons of g&g g96 and kjw m700 compatibility, as well as air rig builds, power bolt versus standard bolt, and other videos like that. Check me out! youtube.com/fatsoftair Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Well I've switched cocking pe pieces and while it fires, I'm not getting the fps i used to. The first few shots "thunk" out and fall and it takes four shots or so to get it up to 430 fps with the pcs still open. Would the cocking peice have anything to do with this?. Is this still a sear problem ? Link to post Share on other sites
The Bushman Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Have you looked to see if the valve knocker (hammer) is bent? Do you have wear on the impact plates of the mag? Is the powerpack fitted in the mags? Sounds like there is not full force being applied to the impact of the hammer on the plates that release the gas. Perhaps the hammer doesn't have enough punch to force the valve open enough to get full power, until some has been released (after 4 shots) and then it can push the less resistant impact plate in further and get abit more power (430fps). What do you think? Good Hunting Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 21, 2012 Report Share Posted February 21, 2012 Ive thought of that as well. I will check if the knocker is bent but the last time I saw it, it was in good condition. My magazine has the power pack installed so I am sure it is not a bent plate. It seems to happen in intervals now that Ive tested it. Ill shoot the first four shots and the bb will not take much hop up due to the decrease in fps. You can hear the difference. On the fourth, the gun will shoot at 430 or so. If I leave it for a little while, sometimes the gun will shoot at that low level again until I put another shot or so into it. This all happened after I changed the cocking pieces since my last one, after a long period of working fine until a week or so ago when it began "two stage" shooting. To where pulling the trigger slightly would release the spring in the bolt half way, then when the trigger was pulled to, all the way. Almost no gas would be shot. Ive tried other KJW/Tanaka combinations with a friend's bolt and spare parts and it seems some combinations wont even shoot. I finally took one of his cocking pieces (not sure the brand) and installed it and it works. But, I can still hear the difference in power from how it used to be. It used to sound a lot stronger and exhaust more gas down the barrel. Ive also tried switching out the hammer springs for a longer (but not nessesarily stiffer) spring he had in his Tanaka (not sure why it was different as it was not as stiff as the upgraded G&G one) and still the same result. Link to post Share on other sites
Kai_Wolf Posted February 22, 2012 Report Share Posted February 22, 2012 And now it's fixed! All it was, was the rod connection to the cocking piece being loose and not screwed in all the way. Did the work on it and took a shot, and I am back to having a loud report (for and airsoft gun) again. Link to post Share on other sites
wolfgeorge Posted February 23, 2012 Report Share Posted February 23, 2012 Good to hear that.... Now I wish you.... Good hunting!! Wolf Link to post Share on other sites
dankarumanov Posted February 27, 2012 Report Share Posted February 27, 2012 I've done some searching and I have an idea about making an internal regulated CO2 Magazine. The power is from 12g CO2 powerlet and connected to a small regulator before reaching to the gas chamber. Has anybody ever build one? Is there any info about it? Please share your thought and ideas. Link to post Share on other sites
Leshy Posted February 28, 2012 Report Share Posted February 28, 2012 I think begadi make something like that. Bushman has used one in his videos with good results. Link to post Share on other sites
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