The Complete Tanaka Thread

[Kai_Wolf]

I have also thought about obtaining a 6.05 diameter barrel. I wonder if the 6.08 would be best to get though.

 

As to my claims Bushman, no offense taken. However just to clarify and forgive me if I am mistaken, but I do not recall making a claim of anything out of the ordinary that has already been posted. I will say that my longest claim was the recent 321 foot hit and of course, this one one round out of my 11 total as well (since yours has ranged out past that). Though I understand the importance of more precise tools to range, right now, I do not have a laser range finder. Though I know it is not as reliable as the rangefinder, Google earth is my only tool to use for range. So I will admit my distances are approximated.

 

But when compared to similar claims, mine do not contain anything of "obscene range" or accuracy. My test targets were of course large trees and not small or even human sized targets. My in game targets were within the 250-275 range and one or two occasional hits at the 300 foot margin. Again, all this is to clarify the claims made all prefaced by the fact that I was and am using a mapping program to approximate ranges.

 

Thanks again and sorry for the trouble!

[The Bushman]

by the fact that I was and am using a mapping program to approximate ranges.

 

Thanks again and sorry for the trouble!

 

LOL sorry. It is no trouble, but to claim 5 out of 10 on a stop sign at 300 feet, is actually very good accuracy for a tanaka, as Wolf George is implying.

 

I have not used 0.43g so cannot comment completely. However, my experience of long range shooting is that at 300 feet the drop is large and with black pellets, near impossible to see where the pellets are landing.

 

I am wondering what magnification you have your scope set to? I am also wondering at what range the crosshair is on the point of impact?

 

I am not saying you are wrong, but doubtfull the range measured without rangefinder is correct.

 

Good Hunting

[Kai_Wolf]

Oh yikes! How embarrassing! I see what you mean lol. I literally meant to say 5 times it was hit in the time I was out and not out of 10 shots . merely to state it could hit that range. But I see why that would be seen as suspect. Otherwise, my gun, and many other Tanakas, seem to be hitting reliably at 250-275. I have my current magnification set to 8x for general purpose. I would have to check the for point of impact. As for .43's, they are very hard to see, but I try to shoot (when testing) where there is direct sun light as the reflection from the bb can usually be seen. The longer of the shots were done with madbull .40's which of course are yellow so seeing them bounce off of a target is much easier to notice.

 

Oh of course. I do wish to use a laser rangefinder to confirm the distances.

[wolfgeorge]

The .43g are very difficult to see but at the place I test the gun there's a very big white wall so it's fairly easy to see them. I made the mistake to use one the .43s and I couldn't see where I was shooting. No I use the .40s now I can do business.

What I've noticed that at 100m (~300ft) there's a lot of loss in accuracy but at 85-90m(~255 - 270ft) it WAY better and I can't really explain it!! Any way I avoid to take that far shots at a game but I enjoy practicing at that distances.

 

 

Wolf

[pace]

Hi guys,

 

Long time since I've viewed this page, its a little large!

I've recently rediscovered my M700 specs:

Preban first gen M700

Dee's 6.01mm barrel taped

BGS Hop unit and rubber tied and taped

Mags on C02 regulator with G&G kits fitted,

Bolt has G&G spring fitted with G&G flow rubber and BGS Longer nozzle.

 

I took it out for a spin the other day, crono'd at 480 on .20. Firing .29 aps grand masters it was hitting head sized targets perfectly at 30m, every other shot at 40m and every now and again at 55/60m. Torso hits at all these ranges were acceptable. Am I asking too much of it or is there room for improvement?

 

Found I needed to hold the mag in tight to get an decent air seal, I remember a long time a go a mod that could be done? any idea?

Since BGS have gone bye bye, is it worth looking at new HOP and Barrel combos?

 

Ideas would be most welcome.

[The Bushman]

 

Ideas would be most welcome.

 

The old BESTGUN hop is not as good as the modern VSR conversion kit. Someone compared the too at some stage. Not suprising as the BG hop was very much a mod style of installation from what I remember.

 

I advise you get a new hop kit (includes a new nozzle), barrel, hop rubber of your choice (I like the 9ball). I have not done the mag shim mod, as I think it will wear out your rubber seal under the barrel. instead I use the G&G gas router springs that give a better seal.

 

I never fire with the mag pushed in, as somehow it causes inaccuracy on my rifle. Shame as my hand naturally wants to sit there when firing from a stood position. I have learnt to bridge the mag with my fingers in front of the mag and thumb behind it.

 

I do not use the powerful spring from the powerpack, as I believe it causes more wear.

 

Use 0.40g if you want to get better accuracy at long range.

 

To answer the query why shots at 300ft are far less accurate than 270ft.... the pellets are going really slowly by that stage. Here is a graph showing the power over distance from a 550fps rifle.

 

 

Basicly at 300ft there is very little power left and the pellet is far more open to minor wind etc.

 

Good Hunting

[wolfgeorge]

Thanks Bushman this explains a lot.

I don't have much time now to test it some more but when I find the time I'd like to test it with 0.27g Biovals ... These loose their kinetic energy at the end of the flight patch, this might improve something.

 

Wolf

[scar527]

I never fire with the mag pushed in, as somehow it causes inaccuracy on my rifle. Shame as my hand naturally wants to sit there when firing from a stood position. I have learnt to bridge the mag with my fingers in front of the mag and thumb behind it.

 

 

 

Have you ever thought of shimming the mags on either the lip of the bottom part of the mag, or the magwell itself? This might allow you to place your hand on the magazine without interfering with the magazines position.

[The Bushman]

Have you ever thought of shimming the mags on either the lip of the bottom part of the mag, or the magwell itself? This might allow you to place your hand on the magazine without interfering with the magazines position.

 

Not really, as I am now so used to the bridge, I don't have to think about it. Nice idea though.

 

WOLF GEORGE: I don't see how using lighter pellets will give you more kinetic energy at long range. Logic makes me think they will have less energy, than the 0.40g I already use.

 

Good Hunting

[wolfgeorge]

Bushman I agree with you on that but guys keep telling me about it. I'm not sure and I don't know if I can measure the speed at a certain point of the flight path.

I have a bag of Bioval 0.27g BBBMAX and I'll test it at 100 to see if get better or worse results. But I can't these days... I very busy with work.

 

Wolf

[Kai_Wolf]

I was never tempted to try out lighter bbs until reading this thread. I tried out .28's (a king arms brand), and though my lateral movement was better (less) than I thought it would be, range of the bb fired was most definitely less or at least it had lost much more energy further out.

 

I have always been curious to see how .29 grand masters compare.

[The Bushman]

I was never tempted to try out lighter bbs until reading this thread. I tried out .28's (a king arms brand), and though my lateral movement was better (less) than I thought it would be, range of the bb fired was most definitely less or at least it had lost much more energy further out.

 

I have always been curious to see how .29 grand masters compare.

 

I still have over a box of SGM 0.29g BB's. Before the modern tan 0.40g hit the shelves they were the best option, as they do indeed shoot like lasers. However their consistant size, finish and weight has limitations. Mainly that wind alters their course more than 0.40g and that they lose power quicker. The result is that they have great accuracy at mid ranges but less effectiveness, espescially out past 70 yards. Overall range is less.

 

I would use 0.43g but being black basicly limits the range you can fire them and drop them onto the target, or compensate for wind. You can get orange 0.43g but quality is not as good.

 

That is why I think the tan 0.40g is the best current ammunition for higher powered rifles. The 0.36g is good too, but again the colour is not ideal for my application.

 

Good Hunting

[Sleepy_UK]

I'm not tanaka owner but I agree with bushman, for my Star .338 firing approx 440-450 ish I found .28's & .29's fires great but the wind easily altered their course downrange... I now use madbull .36's (haven't tried their .40's yet) and they seem to offer the best for my rifle although as mentioned the colour makes it difficult to see it's flight path but when you can see them going down range they appear to be very stable... Would you recommend trying the .40's with my FPS around 440-450 (maybe a little higher in this warm weather)?

 

I am looking at getting a tanaka m700/m40a1 soon too but with my new born that'll take a little saving and waiting for someone to sell a pre ban PCS version at that time

[The Bushman]

Congratulations on parenthood.

 

I use 0.40g in my VSR, but its only 483fps (with 0.20g). I can shoot to 100 yards using lob shooting to the very bottom of the scope picture (on 3Xmag).

 

I suggest if you can get a decent amount of hop out of your rifle, you will be able to lift them at 450fps, but I do not know for certain.

 

I think the green ones are for when you play with targets no further than say 50m (55 yards). I think a 400fps rifle setup, suits sites where cover or terrain density really limits the ability to shoot to long distance. At those typical encounter distances, you can operate without massive need to see where your shot is going. You will find if your rifle is consistant, you can predict wind with slight tilting of the gun. Yet still mainly aim for the target. In short, if you have enough confidence in your rifle, you can hit the target, at those distances, using instinct, to time the shot and find good windows with large body targets.

 

Your opponents, cannot work out your location, from projecting trajectory, back along a pellets flightpath. However to make full use of that you need a quiet gun and it does help to be mobile in such environments. I guess the STAR .338 doesn't fulfill those factors as good as some other rifles. I suggest it suits situations, where you can stand off and ambush at long range. Therefore if you can play to the guns strengths, you need long range visibility of ammunition and heavier pellets to maintain any level of accuracy, in most conditions.

 

Much depends on the site and game types, in my opinion.

 

I rate the m40a1, or LTR, if you can get a preban. I just like lighter guns to be able to make up for lack of firepower, by using mobility.

 

Good Hunting

[Sleepy_UK]

Congratulations on parenthood..

 

Cheers dude!

 

That's very sound advice also mate... The areas I usually play are pretty dense and the typical engagement distance is 50-65m so the .36's are pretty good as you say instinct comes in to play... Last winter when I first received it, using green gas and .29 sgm's it was happily ranging 70-80m with a reasonable accuracy, I didnt have the .36's then to test at that range but hopefully in the coming weeks I'll be able to have a range day.

 

The .338 for me is quite comfortable and it doesn't hamper my mobility that much, being 6'3 probably helps with the rifles size and make it not feel so cumbersome...

My only real gripe with it is the length of her, but like you said you play to the rifles strengths.

 

I did own the kjw m700 and had to be said it was nicer to handle as above the .338 isn't much of a problem

 

I'll keep my eye out for a pre-ban m700/m40

 

Again thanks for the good solid advice

[wolfgeorge]

I bought a stock tanaka m700 police with the camo stock , 3 mags, bipod, silencer and scope all in awesome condition (minus the broken part91) for $300!!

Here's a photo

So these are not that expensive.

 

Wolf

[The Bushman]

Bargain . I have bought all of my VSR/BAR rifles second hand and at good prices. Just overhauled then once I got each one and had them shooting as good as new, due to the simplicity and reliability of the spring rifle mechanisms.

 

I must admit I bought my tanaka from new. Just because it is a gas rifle and a more complicated mechanism than a springer, so more prone wear in a part than is hard to replace, such as trigger sears. I wanted to be sure it could be optimum and free of wear to have the longest lifespan.

 

Not that I am suggesting yours isn't optimum. Whack a VSR conversion in the new part91 and you will be laughing.

 

You can still buy the odd pre ban PCS new, if you know where to look.

 

Good Hunting

[wolfgeorge]

Yes I've seen it in Dentrinity I think the same stock as mine but the standard M700.

I bought the AICS I have new and I thought for this $300 was a good deal and the gun is in excellent condition and the extra mags are always welcomed.

I prefer the VSR over the Tanaka but I do like the effortless bolt cycle of the Tanaka but I find them incredibly inconsistent, and the only solution is to mid them to run on an external CO2/HPA rig.

 

 

Wolf

[Four Leaf]

Hi guys, I've owned Tanaka rifles on and off for a few years, but I recently picked up a M700 Take Down with a PCS bolt. It's totally stock and with .25's (Only BB's I had) I was getting around 40-50 meters and then the BB was ski jumping. I'm currently trying to wind down the hop, but I've just got some .30's to try out and see how the hop effects them.

 

I've tried looking all over the web fir info on the Takedown version but info on it is scarce at best.

 

Does anyone have any info I could use, anything I should know about the gun ? Far as I know it can take regular M700 barrels but the hop unit is totally custom, obviously due to the fact the gun breaks in half.

[Dan B]

Hi all, on the brink of taking the plunge and buying a Tanaka m40a1, I have some questions I was hoping you could answer.

 

The retailer states "This rifle is a collectors rifle and is not designed for skirmishing. It will run best on 134a Summer Gas due to the more delicate internals. Using Green Gas will exert too much pressure and cause damage and techical difficulties."

 

Is this a load of tosh, or do I actually need to use 134a in this? Even harder now it's been banned in the EU. A hopeful guess would be that these are Japanese restrictions, and Abbey Ultra gas would be fine...

 

If not, would a G&G Power bolt solve the problem? And also, does the Power bolt have adjustable fps? Are there any drop in bolts/kits which would enable it?

 

Thanks in advance

[The Bushman]

It's all tosh m8. The tanaka rifles can take green gas no problem at all.

 

The tanaka m40a1 is a great rifle.

 

My advice is not to buy the "power bolt" as the nozzle is fixed. If you want to make the rifle accurate, you need to buy the m700 VSR hop conversion kit, that comes with an extended nozzle.

 

To fit the kit you need a 555mm VSr inner barrel & VSR firefly hop rubber. The accuracy is brilliant once converted. Accuracy is not that good without the kit.

 

The tanaka bolt is adjustable power, as long as you strip it and adjust it.

 

After that look at getting the power pack parts for the magazines. the original mag parts are fine for a few thousand shots, but do wear our eventually. Stick to the short magazines for best consistancy. Also try to get the gas route connector springs to creat a better seal, although the originals will be fine for a few thousand shots.

 

I hope that helps.

 

Good Hunting

[Dan B]

Thanks very much, just what I was looking for haha.

 

I've read enough of this thread to know about the VSR conversion kit, which everyone seems to rave about on here Which is better, the King Arms version, or the 2ROY one? Or are they basically the same?

[The Bushman]

They are identical. I liked the 2ROY myself, as it was a third of the price when I got them imported.

 

here is mine...

 

 

(the second shot was a flier. 3rd was compensated too much due to seconds trajectory)

 

 

Good Hunting

[The Bushman]

just to correct myself... you need to use the 9ball hop rubber, not the firefly.

 

Good Hunting

 

[Dan B]

Hi guys,

 

I have a Tanaka m700 L.T.R. with the wooden stock, and was wondering if anyone knows if I can purchase a synthetic stock for it?

 

I would like to be able to keep the wooden stock, for display and target shooting, but would like a more camouflage-able (I want to spray a cool pattern on it basically )

 

Any ideas?

 

Dan