WA issues...

[r.ocelot]

List the problems you had here, followed by how you fixed it, if possible.

 

"Sinking" mag release on expert styled SVI grips:

Ring of crazy glue/epoxy around mag release retention notch.

 

Loose tolerance between sear/disconnecter:

Any tips on how to fix this?

 

Over stretched nozzle return spring on Magna guns:

Take a clicky pen and use the spring from that, bend the two ends, and you have a new nozzle return spring.

 

Mushy right side thumb safety (it wiggles a bit before moving the left side safety with it):

Any tips? epoxy between the joints of the ambi grips worked, but I still want to work on the internals every so often.

[hitmanNo2]

Over stretched nozzle return spring on Magna guns:

Take a clicky pen and use the spring from that, bend the two ends, and you have a new nozzle return spring.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

Sweet, I never thought of using those springs. I'm going to go and canabalise some pens now.

[hardboiledcop]

Loose tolerance between sear/disconnecter:

Any tips on how to fix this?

 

I had this on one of my pistols, afraid I didn't find a way to fix it as the problem tends to occur after upgrading to full metal. According to Mobius Strip the two pin holes which hold the hammer and the sear/disconnector are slightly further apart on Prime kits than they are on stock WA ABS frames.

Hence any slight imperfections are increased.. A steel sear should fix the problem, about 20 dollars from Den.

 

Mushy right side thumb safety (it wiggles a bit before moving the left side safety with it):

Any tips? epoxy between the joints of the ambi grips worked, but I still want to work on the internals every so often.

 

I experienced this too.. the problem occurs because the slot where the two parts of the ambi safety meet doesn't hold them together tight enough.., perhaps a small roll of paper used to pad out the hole that they slip into would cause them to bind a little better.

 

I made the mistake of glueing the pieces together, and although the gun worked flawlessly, I was kicking myself later for practically sealing off the entire lower frame..

 

ta.

[Sale]

I've understood that the nozzle return springs are only used in GBBs, because the collectors wanted the pistols to look more realistic and have the nozzle retreat away from sight when the pistol is racked. In my view they only slow the rear stroke of the slide down (a bit) without offering a snappier return, which is the benefit of a strong recoil spring.

 

Any thoughts?

 

-Sale

[r.ocelot]

Sale, I never thought of it that way, I was thinking that the nozzle return spring helps the loading nozzle's o-ring from over riding the blowback unit, and getting stuck.

 

EDIT:

 

Also, I had issues such as the nozzle jamming on the loading ramp section of the hop-unit during slide return when the spring was not installed (see: lost).

 

Overriding loading nozzle o-ring:

To quote Dr.WA/Matt/Mobius Strip:

" Now this is a problem that I see reoccur more and more regularly. The slide jams during blowback - I have seen guns that required a nudge on the rear of the slide to re-seat the O ring, others, the O ring had ridden over most of its groove, thus jamming the gun solid. Replacement with a higher quality part is the answer. The problem is that the Blowback O-ring, Part 88 in the WA manual, is actually too loose a fit, or is not of the correct 'shore' hardness. That is to say....it is when using green gas ^_-.

A good quality tighter O-ring, stops the problem of the oversize duff one riding over the edge of its groove thus jamming as described.

 

The correct size needed is 13.3mm outside diameter, with an inside diameter of 10.1. This gives a section thickness of 1.6mm.

Since retro fitting these, I have never seen this particular problem re-occur."

 

Double feeds:

PGC Mag lips.

 

BBs not contacting loading ramp correctly:

I noticed that when BBs are loaded, they are done in a manner such that they are pushed up the loading ramp. However, the only the side edges of the loading ramp is contacting the BBs, instead of the entire curve (more so on SCW2s than SCW3s). Any sucessful fix for this? I think it's a problem as a 150% recoil spring might cause the bb to be loaded faster, and the cutting action of the edges on the BBs increased....causing minor deductions from accuracy...

[hitmanNo2]

I don't know how well one thread will fare for all WA technical problems, but perhaps to make it slightly more easier to read, perhaps when someone posts a problem, they could put a number next to it.

 

The first post could be updated every now and again to have the problem, it's number and the post number/s of possible solutions to the problem.

 

This way, people can scan the first post, see if their problem is there and then go to the relevant replys. Or else post their new question.

 

Just a thought.

[Sale]

A mate of mine said the PGC mag lips caused lowered muzzle velocities in his SV. Have you compared velocities before and after? An oversized mag lip could theoretically withhold the slide from going all the way forward to press the loading nozzle and floating valve in a proper engagement with the chamber and BB.

 

-Sale

[r.ocelot]

hitmanNo2, that would be possible, if you, mathub, HBC, or any of the other WA experts can be promoted to mods for this forum, so that you can edit posts even after the edit option expires.

 

Sale,

I have not noticed any decrease in FPS with the mag lips installed, though I am using KA 150% springs, theoretically removing that issue.

 

NOTE:

Get cheap loading nozzles by the dozen if you're doing IPSC stuff.... PGC mag lips are not that much stronger than WA stock lips :-(

 

hitmanNo2:

Here's something that can replace the first post, when one of you guys become subforum mod:

 

1) "Sinking" mag release on expert styled SVI grips:

Ring of crazy glue/epoxy around mag release retention notch.

 

2) Loose tolerance between sear/disconnecter:

I had this on one of my pistols, afraid I didn't find a way to fix it as the problem tends to occur after upgrading to full metal. According to Mobius Strip the two pin holes which hold the hammer and the sear/disconnector are slightly further apart on Prime kits than they are on stock WA ABS frames.

Hence any slight imperfections are increased.. A steel sear should fix the problem, about 20 dollars from Den.

 

3) Over stretched nozzle return spring on Magna guns:

Take a clicky pen and use the spring from that, bend the two ends, and you have a new nozzle return spring.

 

4) Mushy right side thumb safety (it wiggles a bit before moving the left side safety with it):

Epoxy between the joints of the ambi grips worked, but I still want to work on the internals every so often.

I experienced this too.. the problem occurs because the slot where the two parts of the ambi safety meet doesn't hold them together tight enough.., perhaps a small roll of paper used to pad out the hole that they slip into would cause them to bind a little better.

 

I made the mistake of glueing the pieces together, and although the gun worked flawlessly, I was kicking myself later for practically sealing off the entire lower frame..

 

5) Overriding loading nozzle o-ring:

To quote Dr.WA/Matt/Mobius Strip:

Now this is a problem that I see reoccur more and more regularly. The slide jams during blowback - I have seen guns that required a nudge on the rear of the slide to re-seat the O ring, others, the O ring had ridden over most of its groove, thus jamming the gun solid. Replacement with a higher quality part is the answer. The problem is that the Blowback O-ring, Part 88 in the WA manual, is actually too loose a fit, or is not of the correct 'shore' hardness. That is to say....it is when using green gas ^_-.

A good quality tighter O-ring, stops the problem of the oversize duff one riding over the edge of its groove thus jamming as described.

 

The correct size needed is 13.3mm outside diameter, with an inside diameter of 10.1. This gives a section thickness of 1.6mm.

Since retro fitting these, I have never seen this particular problem re-occur.

 

6) Double feeds:

PGC Mag lips can fix this issue.

 

7) BBs not contacting loading ramp correctly:

I noticed that when BBs are loaded, they are done in a manner such that they are pushed up the loading ramp. However, the only the side edges of the loading ramp is contacting the BBs, instead of the entire curve (more so on SCW2s than SCW3s). Any sucessful fix for this? I think it's a problem as a 150% recoil spring might cause the bb to be loaded faster, and the cutting action of the edges on the BBs increased....causing minor deductions from accuracy...

[Slug Pellets]

I had a problem with a Prime kitted Officer whereby it would fire the first shot as normal, but then on the second would fire weakly without blowback/ and or vent the gas from the mag.

 

This problem was eliminated by using a WA V10 mag instead of the Magna-tech Officer mag that I had been using. From comparing the valves it looks like the V10 mag valve sticks out further than the one on Officer mags.

 

My question is; would installing a reinforced firing pin make a difference, and/or would installing Hi-Flow valves to the Officer mags make any difference? It doesn't really matter as they work well with the V10 mags but it would be nice to not have to competely replace the others.

 

[hardboiledcop]

If the problem is indeed due to the valves being of differing depths, then a reinforced firing pin should make a difference, so long as it is also lengthened.

 

I seem to remember that aftermarket firing pins have inherently different dimensions, some are extended, some not.

[Mathub]

Wel, firing pins are quite a lottery.

I have a pile at home.

In scw2 form, I have best results with guarder. PGC one are not consistent in the make, some will works, others won't.

 

And it all depends of what high flow valve you are using. The shape of the striking area is different from one manufacturer to other.

 

In magna and scw1, not a problem.

 

Slug pellets, just a word about your valve.

Just remove it, and see by pushing the piston with your fingers from inside, if the little oring on the piston head does his work of stopping the piston from coming out too much.

[Slug Pellets]

Thanks guys I may look at installing some of the Guarder pins .

 

Another little niggle I got with the Officer's is when you put a loaded mag in the gun and rack the slide back to load the first bb, the loading nozzle sticks on the mag and stays forward.

 

I have to tap it so it gets unstanged and springs back. Once the first bb is loaded the gun functions fine.

 

Any ideas?

[Mathub]

Well, that might help.

 

In some blowback chambers, I had to little black plastic bits that goes on both side of the nozzle (I'm not talking of the 2 bits on both side of the breach).

I think their purpose is to prevent the nozzle from sticking on the hop unit.

[hardboiledcop]

does it still stick on the first bb when you only have say 10 bb's loaded?

[the cleaner]

I've understood that the nozzle return springs are only used in GBBs, because the collectors wanted the pistols to look more realistic and have the nozzle retreat away from sight when the pistol is racked. In my view they only slow the rear stroke of the slide down (a bit) without offering a snappier return, which is the benefit of a strong recoil spring.

 

Any thoughts?

 

-Sale

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

from R.ocelot:

 

Sale, I never thought of it that way, I was thinking that the nozzle return spring helps the loading nozzle's o-ring from over riding the blowback unit, and getting stuck.

 

the nozzle return spring is not necessary for your gun to function.. .

 

in Magna guns . nozzles will get hung up onto the mag lip (old style all metal mag lip casted into mag). . the remedy for this was to file down all the burrs and flash around the mag lip and that cured any nozzle hang up.

 

also, when the slide is all the back. . the nozzle (even without a return spring) will completely clear the mag feed lip. . so the nozzle won't prevent a gun from firing.

[hardboiledcop]

Do realsteel MSH's fit WA 1911s?

 

ta.

[primussucks]

I had a friend come to me with this problem, then a little later I encountered it as well.

 

In an older pistol pulling the trigger does not release the hammer. If you pull the hammer back you will hear a click and then pulling the trigger releases the hammer.

 

The problem I think is caused by silicone spray buildup. In my SCW2 infinity expert 4.3 I was starting to see this problem, I tore it apart and lubed it with marine(as in boating) grease instead of silicone. Its been holding up well for a while now. I think upgrading to an after market sear and disconnecter helps too.

[Sale]

Grease is the way to go in the firing mechanism. There's no plastic, so there's no need to use silicone. MOS2 and other greases are just fine. The thicker stuff you put on the sear, the smoother the trigger pull will be.

 

-Sale

[hardboiledcop]

I found that an aftermarket sear removed all grittiness from the trigger pull.

[the cleaner]

if you continue to use year stock sears. .. it's worth disassembling everything and clean up any "flash" from the die casted parts.. if you have a brass tumbler (or even a hobby rock tumbler). .you can clean up the parts nicely. . if not. . use some quality needle files to deburr. . only remove unwanted material otherwise, you just created a problem. . .reassemble. .and regrease.

[Mathub]

Do realsteel MSH's fit WA 1911s?

 

ta.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

I want to know too.

Because the casting quality of WA MSH is questionnable.

I've already a prime msh on my V10, it's a nice piece, but not that cheap.

[the cleaner]

I'll answer that question. . but it's based on my memory of working on it 4+ years ago. .

 

no. . RS MSH do not work in WAs. .mainly the guide rails do not match nor does the ANGLE at which the guide rails are made. .they just won't align properly.

 

but of course. . RS magwells work. . .

 

if you want to change out the MSH. . best to just get the SD/Prime one. .it's the most affordable. .. Sheriff's cost more than the RS ones.

[hkssr20det]

I'll answer that question. . but it's based on my memory of working on it 4+ years ago. .

 

no. . RS MSH do not work in WAs. .mainly the guide rails do not match nor does the ANGLE at which the guide rails are made.  .they just won't align properly.

 

but of course. . RS magwells work. . .

 

if you want to change out the MSH. . best to just get the SD/Prime one. .it's the most affordable. .. Sheriff's cost more than the RS ones.

<{POST_SNAPBACK}>

 

Yup, Sheriff is more money than anything should be. They are very nice...sucks that RS parts won't work. Did the Prime MSH require any fitting?

[the cleaner]

I've never use aftermarket MSH. . no real need. .Sheriff, Guarder and other stiffer mainsprings seem to hold well with the stock MSH. .so to me. .I'll only replace it for a cosmetic reason (and when I have extra play money to throw around).

 

I would imagine that if you had a Prime frame. .expect the Prime MSH to fit fairly well. . however, with Prime's record of ill-fitting kits in the first place. .you just never know. . in stock ABS frames. .usually they have larger tolerances than the metal parts so it should work as easy.

 

generally. . .all metal parts will require some tuning. . that's just the nature of the game

[hardboiledcop]

When I insert a magazine into my V10 with the slide forward there is more resistance than there should be, then when I go to pull the slide back, the slide moves but the nozzle sticks forward, therefore there's no bb in the first shot.

 

In addition to this, if I cock the gun, insert the mag, then let the slide forward to load the bb, the first shot is often weaker than the following shots..

 

The gun has prime frame, sd slide, prime chamber, and sd nozzle/rocket valve.

 

Any help would be appreciated.

 

ta.