ArmyofMike Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 I know there has been discussion in this post in regards to the flashider of the A&K M249 and removing it. Can anyone tell me if it is Counterclockwise, or clockwise? I would like to remove mine at some point and would like to know which way to wrench on it. I got it in the USA from Airsplat. Thank you for the help all. And thanks again to FarEast for the exceptional review of this gun. If you are considering buying or have purchased the A&K M249, follow his steps and you will have yourself one mean SAW! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kye Posted May 28, 2008 Report Share Posted May 28, 2008 From FarEast himself. The thread it’s self is a 14mm clockwise thread so If you are looking to attach something else to the barrel you might need to double check its fitting first. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 From FarEast himself. Kye, you are a genius and a scholar. Your reading abilities far outweight mine. I had not seen that and I read that article like 30+ times. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Kye Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Not a problem in the slightest dear sir Quote Link to post Share on other sites
cazboab Posted May 29, 2008 Report Share Posted May 29, 2008 Uh, on my Para version the thread is 14mm counter-clockwise just like my other AEGs. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Uh, on my Para version the thread is 14mm counter-clockwise just like my other AEGs. I will try either way. Can someone tell me "how" they got their flashhider off on the Echo/A&K M249? I have tried to put it in a vice, use a wrench, use vice grips etc. But I can't get enough leverage. I am afraid I am going to gouge the metal, or bend the handle that is attached to the outer barrel. Any suggestions/recommendations? Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
PlasticMag Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 I usually run a screwdriver through the FH's holes and use it as a straight wrench. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 On my echo1 para, there was no problem getting the flash hider off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 (edited) On my echo1 para, there was no problem getting the flash hider off. Wow, I have tried a wrench, plyers, a vice, This bad boy is on here. I am trying to remove it clockwise. Is this the direction yours came off? How exactly did you get your flashider off infected? Thanks. Edited May 31, 2008 by ArmyofMike Quote Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Well to get it off... I just used my hand and unscrewed it clockwise (looking down the barrel). You do know that the flash hider on the para unscrews at the front sight right? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Well to get it off... I just used my hand and unscrewed it clockwise (looking down the barrel). You do know that the flash hider on the para unscrews at the front sight right? Yes, I saw how FarEast got his off, I am trying to unscrew it just above the aluminum looking piece. I have been torqueing on it soooo much I am afraid I am going to bend/break the outer barrel. Not sure why it is on so tight. I will try to eat some Wheaties and work on again. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Have you tried warming it up with a heat gun for a minute and trying? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Well to get it off... I just used my hand and unscrewed it clockwise (looking down the barrel). Wow, talk about confusing! The thread on the M249 flash hider is -ve, CCW, counter-clockwise, left handed. Call it what you want. It unscrews the OPPOSITE way from most nuts and bolts. What Infected says is correct, if a little confusing. If you're looking at the muzzle of the gun you should turn the f/h clockwise to remove it. The f/h has a spanner flat cut into it. I'd suggest you use it with a suitable spanner... or wrench. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Thank you Stealthbomber for the information too. And thank you infected. I will attempt both of your suggestions tomorrow (it is too late now in Cali for me to try to get this off~My Neighbors might get mad with all the screaming and cussing) and heat the barrel and then leverage it CCW. I appreciate both of your suggestions. I will bet the SOB off. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beast06 Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 Looking at getting one of these pretty soon, but have a few Q's. 1. Is it an 8mm bearing gearbox? Might go and buy a CA Shell if it isn't. 2. Where to get a new microswitch in the UK? 3. I've got a G&P Ranger front grip, but with the bipod etc, can this still be installed? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted May 31, 2008 Report Share Posted May 31, 2008 1. Is it an 8mm bearing gearbox? Might go and buy a CA Shell if it isn't. 2. Where to get a new microswitch in the UK? 3. I've got a G&P Ranger front grip, but with the bipod etc, can this still be installed? 1) Yes. It is 8mm. Be warned, however, that the bearings do not have a flange so they're not like "normal" AEG bearings. The only reason to worry about the bearings is if you find your gun has a sticky bearing. Mine did. I replaced em for about £5 with bearings from an online engineering shop. 2) It's just a bog-standard DIN-spec microswitch. All the usual suspects (Maplin, RS, Farnell etc) sell them.Google "electrical components" and it's almost assured that any shop listed will sell them. Personally, I don't think the microswitch is rated for the 20amp surge and 10 amp continuous current that the gun draws. I'd seriously consider fitting a mosfet or relay to the M249 to give the microswitch an easy life. 3) If it's for a CA M249 it should fit just fine. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 FYI, Update on my flashider removal. This thing is a Dirty, Dirty Filthy Whor_ and I Hate it for making my life not fun right now! Translation: I still can't get it off the outer barrel going CCW. It is threaded to the larger outer barrel piece with cryptonite! Why must it be this hard? Off to the store I go to get some Beer. O'well. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 1) Yes. It is 8mm. Be warned, however, that the bearings do not have a flange so they're not like "normal" AEG bearings. The only reason to worry about the bearings is if you find your gun has a sticky bearing. Mine did. I replaced em for about £5 with bearings from an online engineering shop. Hum... I was just considering replacing my bearings (as my 249 just stopped feeding and I'm going back into the gun). So these wouldn't work: http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/produ...products_id=546 Everywhere I look, I'm finding the possible correct bearings for $10-11 each! Stealthbomber, what are the dimensions of the bearings (ID, OD, Width), that I need to be looking for? Any suggestions on where to look? I looked at mcmaster's as they have just about everything... but there's only 2 choices in 8mm bearings. Could I use a 5/16inch bearing as it's almost the exact same size? There are more choices in that size here, but still over $6 each bearing. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Beast06 Posted June 1, 2008 Report Share Posted June 1, 2008 1) Yes. It is 8mm. Be warned, however, that the bearings do not have a flange so they're not like "normal" AEG bearings. The only reason to worry about the bearings is if you find your gun has a sticky bearing. Mine did. I replaced em for about £5 with bearings from an online engineering shop. Do you have a link to the ones you bought Stealth? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
stealthlead Posted June 4, 2008 Report Share Posted June 4, 2008 thank you very much for making this review. it has encouraged me not only to buy the gun, but to also write a review. thank you very much and i think this is the best review i've ever seen. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Evidence Posted June 6, 2008 Report Share Posted June 6, 2008 (edited) Extremly high quality review!! One question, may i use this battery in it, or is it to much MaH? And what would you choosen between the last battery and this one? Thanks! Edited June 6, 2008 by Evidence Quote Link to post Share on other sites
[BS]_MARS Posted June 6, 2008 Report Share Posted June 6, 2008 The 2300MAh is what you want, you can never have too much MAh and it will fit. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Evidence Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 Thank you so much! Realy helpful ;D Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Payne06 Posted June 8, 2008 Report Share Posted June 8, 2008 FYI, Update on my flashider removal. This thing is a Dirty, Dirty Filthy Whor_ and I Hate it for making my life not fun right now! Translation: I still can't get it off the outer barrel going CCW. It is threaded to the larger outer barrel piece with cryptonite! Why must it be this hard? Off to the store I go to get some Beer. O'well. I didn't read the entire article, but if it's like my old CA M249, then the threads are CW, not CCW. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ArmyofMike Posted June 16, 2008 Report Share Posted June 16, 2008 The A&K m249 para (at least the one I have) is ccw. I finally left the barrel on the gun and with quite a bit of leverage was able to unscrew the barrel. Thanks to everyone's help. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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