A&K SVD PICT'O'RAMA + first look

[Horsem4n]

Just a quick note to say the G&P 80 degree hard hop rubbers work amazingly in these.

 

http://www.airsoftglobal.com/product_info.php?products_id=12472

 

and they're brilliantly cheap!

you cant just say that and leave. how well does it shoot? i must have range and accuracy statistics!

 

I have a problem with my A&K SVD, it shoots 2 or sometimes even 3! BB's at once....

And when i'm lucky it shoots just 1.... I'm no technical guy but what could be the problem?

take out the ball detent in the chamber (the grub screw closest to the bolt on the top of the hop up chamber, unscrew it and extract the spring and bearing with a magnet if they dont fall out) it make be kicking more BBs into the chamber. its there to keep BBs from spilling out into the chamber area, but on some peoples SVDs, the tolerances were off enough to make the BBs multifeed.

[hopeinen]

When i first fired my SVD it did also doublefeed, i lubed the magazine and hop up and now it works just fine.

[EOL]

Same here.

[Mr. Blue]

Is anyone else have the problem of the sear beginning to wear out?

 

I have a shallow groove being worn into mine. I haven't hit the accidental fire stages yet, but i fear its about 1000 rounds away.

 

Also, how is everyone's hop ups doing? mine is on par with a aeg right now, but my buddy has one that shoots as good a bar-10.

[Coldgunner]

haven't touched the hop in mine other than adjusting it. seemed ok with .25's.

 

On a side note, I want to reach 500fps with it. Will a straightforward spring change do the job or does anything need reinforcing/swapping out?

 

Lastly what spring is good?

Edited September 9, 2010 by Coldgunner

[Tinkerton]

An M170 should get you about 490/500 ish. friend of mine with one gets about 480, i get about 505. go figure.

 

 

With regards to the double feeding, are you only pulling the cocking handle once each time? if you pull it but dont cock it becuase you're struggling or so, then it'll double feed and misfeed quite badly.

 

Horsem4n: getting accurate shots at 505 fps with madbull 0.40s to about 50 meters, man sized targets easily beyond that.

[Horsem4n]

i was hitting a large tree at around 230 feet 3 times out of the whole mag with TSD .28s. my hop up had a really bad air seal, but i know it could be capable of a little better, but not as good as i wanted it to be. the case is, i want more. a spring rifle should be capable of consistently hitting human targets at 250 feet. especially competing against AEGs which are also capable of that, but most scrimmagers around me are capable of 200 feet with their AEGs.

 

this is my only problem and why i got rid of my SVD. i didnt want to spend the time or money to have a new hop up and piston head made by world of arms or polar star.

 

 

im kind of starting to reconsider building an AEG DMR. i got a job at hot spot airsoft and have fixed half a dozen AEGs since last friday. the more and more i look at it, the easier it is for me to see that its just a better idea to go for the electric gun. but thats just my revelation. i may end up doing that AS Val build after all.

Edited September 11, 2010 by Horsem4n

[Mshtuff]

Sorry for the necro and this stupidly-long post, but I just got the A&K SVD and have been researching it VERY thoroughly, yet I am still getting mixed results to my issues with upgrading - I am at my wit's end trying to get final answers so any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been by far the most informative content on this gun I have found anywhere after weeks of research (so thank you all very much in advance). However, this is my first experience with any airsoft gun - I ordered it from AirsoftGI.com, and have emailed their tech dept. twice over two weeks as to any suggestions to confirmed compatible upgrades. I have received no reply. Thus, I turn to everyone here.

 

A.) Does it take a 650mm barrel or will it only fit a 590mm? I've read both work, but I want to be sure it will shoot properly. Accuracy is much more important than power to me. I definitely would like to get 6.01, but some people have advised against it and suggest 6.03, stating 6.01 is unnecessary for this rifle.

 

B.) Will any AEG spring work, or will it be too short, thus I'll need a PSG-1 length spring? Again, I've heard both. I'd prefer to have an M140 to 160 spring or something similar strength if feasible. I have no problem pulling the bolt as it is, and a high FPS won't be an issue since I will only play private matches.

 

C.) Did anyone else not have the unique "nub" in their hop up unit? Out of the box mine only had the small grub screw for adjustments, but there was no rod/bar/nub through the horizontal hole at the top - it was completely empty. So would I be able to use a Madbull Fishbone (or whatever AEG bucking) in it and install the included H-nub as a normal hop up system would have, or do I need to buy the bucking and put part of an O-ring through the original nub's spot?

 

I was impatient and ended up tightening the hop up adjustment screw down through the stock bucking, piercing it straight through (I must be a genius) since with each shot the hop up did not change due to the lack of a nub. Thus, every BB I chambered afterward would roll out of the barrel before I even pulled the trigger. I rigged a crappy replacement "nub" out of a section or O-ring as a temporary fix. I laid this across the top hole of the inner barrel where typical a nub usually sits, and I slid the original bucking over that to hold it in place. I loosened the adjustment screw out to the edge of the hop up unit. It fires every time now, but is more inaccurate than a post-fap-shotgun-blast urine session.

 

D.) Mine did not have an fps even remotely close to what I've read on here, but MUCH lower - I got it about a month ago, so maybe it's a different model. At first it would only shoot 75 ft or so, but after I ruined the bucking I cleaned the barrel a bit; now I can aim at the ground 30 feet in front of me and not only will it miss the ground, but the BB's flight will peak at ~15 to ~25 in the air about 200 feet away.....I assume it's the crappy "fix" I applied to my hop up assembly that causes the wild path and hope a proper bucking and nub will remedy this.

 

Again, many thanks and many more deep apologies for this many questions, and I hope no one had a seizure reading this.

[Horsem4n]

Is anyone else have the problem of the sear beginning to wear out?

 

I have a shallow groove being worn into mine. I haven't hit the accidental fire stages yet, but i fear its about 1000 rounds away.

 

Also, how is everyone's hop ups doing? mine is on par with a aeg right now, but my buddy has one that shoots as good a bar-10.

i didn't see this until now, but look back in this topic at Bane's posts. he described a modification where he screwed down a small sheet of steel over the contours of the sear, protecting it from wear. this is something i think you have the capacity to do.

 

Sorry for the necro and this stupidly-long post, but I just got the A&K SVD and have been researching it VERY thoroughly, yet I am still getting mixed results to my issues with upgrading - I am at my wit's end trying to get final answers so any help would be greatly appreciated. This has been by far the most informative content on this gun I have found anywhere after weeks of research (so thank you all very much in advance). However, this is my first experience with any airsoft gun - I ordered it from AirsoftGI.com, and have emailed their tech dept. twice over two weeks as to any suggestions to confirmed compatible upgrades. I have received no reply. Thus, I turn to everyone here.

 

A.) Does it take a 650mm barrel or will it only fit a 590mm? I've read both work, but I want to be sure it will shoot properly. Accuracy is much more important than power to me. I definitely would like to get 6.01, but some people have advised against it and suggest 6.03, stating 6.01 is unnecessary for this rifle.

the stock length of the barrel is (iirc) 644mm. the cylinder and outer barrel are plenty long enough for the 650mm inner barrel. it will just extend a little bit into the flash hider.

 

B.) Will any AEG spring work, or will it be too short, thus I'll need a PSG-1 length spring? Again, I've heard both. I'd prefer to have an M140 to 160 spring or something similar strength if feasible. I have no problem pulling the bolt as it is, and a high FPS won't be an issue since I will only play private matches.

regular aeg springs will work, but they are shorter than the stock springs it uses (so yeah, the spring is a kin to a psg-1 spring). but, youll just have to get a spring 2 nitches up in power to compensate for the loss of length. as said, an M170 nets around 500 in these when they would net about 600 in an AEG.

 

C.) Did anyone else not have the unique "nub" in their hop up unit? Out of the box mine only had the small grub screw for adjustments, but there was no rod/bar/nub through the horizontal hole at the top - it was completely empty. So would I be able to use a Madbull Fishbone (or whatever AEG bucking) in it and install the included H-nub as a normal hop up system would have, or do I need to buy the bucking and put part of an O-ring through the original nub's spot?

thats just good old Chinese lack of quality control. you need that nub. what you can do is cut an length of 16awg silicon wire and use that as your nub. if the 16 awg wiring is too big, drop down to 14awg.

 

I was impatient and ended up tightening the hop up adjustment screw down through the stock bucking, piercing it straight through (I must be a genius) since with each shot the hop up did not change due to the lack of a nub. Thus, every BB I chambered afterward would roll out of the barrel before I even pulled the trigger. I rigged a crappy replacement "nub" out of a section or O-ring as a temporary fix. I laid this across the top hole of the inner barrel where typical a nub usually sits, and I slid the original bucking over that to hold it in place. I loosened the adjustment screw out to the edge of the hop up unit. It fires every time now, but is more inaccurate than a post-fap-shotgun-blast urine session.

 

D.) Mine did not have an fps even remotely close to what I've read on here, but MUCH lower - I got it about a month ago, so maybe it's a different model. At first it would only shoot 75 ft or so, but after I ruined the bucking I cleaned the barrel a bit; now I can aim at the ground 30 feet in front of me and not only will it miss the ground, but the BB's flight will peak at ~15 to ~25 in the air about 200 feet away.....I assume it's the crappy "fix" I applied to my hop up assembly that causes the wild path and hope a proper bucking and nub will remedy this.

with a new bucking and that nub replacement i described, it should work fine. you were just loosing a LOT of air around the hop up.

 

Again, many thanks and many more deep apologies for this many questions, and I hope no one had a seizure reading this.

edits in red

 

my mind is telling me to build another one of these and try harder. i have access to 6 of these over at hot spot airsoft. if i decide to get one, ill look over all of them and pick the best one.

some notes. A&K re designed these again from what i can tell. they changed the safety again, changed how they cast the top cover, made more of the grub screw bigger (i think) and are now selling them with the mid cap mags.

Edited October 3, 2010 by Horsem4n

[Mshtuff]

i didn't see this until now, but look back in this topic at Bane's posts. he described a modification where he screwed down a small sheet of steel over the contours of the sear, protecting it from wear. this is something i think you have the capacity to do.

 

 

edits in red

 

my mind is telling me to build another one of these and try harder. i have access to 6 of these over at hot spot airsoft. if i decide to get one, ill look over all of them and pick the best one.

some notes. A&K re designed these again from what i can tell. they changed the safety again, changed how they cast the top cover, made more of the grub screw bigger (i think) and are now selling them with the mid cap mags.

 

 

First of all, I want to extend my deepest gratitude for the extensive knowledge, clearly communicated advice and obvious passion you have shared about this gun and airsoft all over several forums and getting back to me on here - absolutely the best reviews and help I've seen anywhere else on the net, and that goes for every other airsoft product (or otherwise, for that matter!) I've checked out since I fell in love with this hobby less than a month ago!

 

I've studied your conversation with Bane here, and both of you have posted exponentially more useful information than everything else I have studied combined.....and I have nitpicked every link for the first 10 pages of Googling it over the last two weeks! And yes, mine did come with the mid cap mag, so I wouldn't be surprised if many other parts have been altered a bit. All in all, I've been happy with it, despite all the issues. Although, this IS my first and only experience with airsoft, so I naturally am excited regardless of bumps in the road.

 

You have inspired me to make each and every airsoft weapon I purchase as much my own as possible, and learn all I can about each aspect of the guns. Thank you again for the advice, and your clear dedication to helping out complete strangers.

 

 

 

P.S. - As for the spring I'm going to go with the PSG-1 Systema 200% (300% if you think it can handle it - I'd like 450+ FPS is possible on otherwise stock internals) and this Firefly hard bucking (unless the Madbull Fishbone works so I could fix the double-feeding without actually removing parts from the gun). Obviously I will go with the simple self-made stock nub replacement and a simple teflon mod. Thanks so much, yet again!

Edited October 3, 2010 by Mshtuff

[Bane]

I half regret selling my two but i couldnt justify having a Dragunov that wasent semi, and it was too weakly constructed to survive a GBB conversion.

 

The mods i did to them are as Horseman said quite simple, if you can find a peice of 1mm thick steel (approximately) and form it over the sear, fix it down with a screw or two to stop it coming off, then remove it, heat it up red-hot, and dump it into some powdered up coal, rub it through until it starts to cool, then heat it up red-hot again, burning the coal into the steel, once thats done, while red hot, dump it in some cold water quickly. Its a primitive but effective way to case-harden steel, and it will prevent the plate from being chewed out, the other benefit is if you spend some time to polish the steel plate smooth, there wont be any imperfections for the alloy piston to snag on and because the steel is so hard there wont be any problem of it being chewed by the piston

[Horsem4n]

First of all, I want to extend my deepest gratitude for the extensive knowledge, clearly communicated advice and obvious passion you have shared about this gun and airsoft all over several forums and getting back to me on here - absolutely the best reviews and help I've seen anywhere else on the net, and that goes for every other airsoft product (or otherwise, for that matter!) I've checked out since I fell in love with this hobby less than a month ago!

 

I've studied your conversation with Bane here, and both of you have posted exponentially more useful information than everything else I have studied combined.....and I have nitpicked every link for the first 10 pages of Googling it over the last two weeks! And yes, mine did come with the mid cap mag, so I wouldn't be surprised if many other parts have been altered a bit. All in all, I've been happy with it, despite all the issues. Although, this IS my first and only experience with airsoft, so I naturally am excited regardless of bumps in the road.

 

You have inspired me to make each and every airsoft weapon I purchase as much my own as possible, and learn all I can about each aspect of the guns. Thank you again for the advice, and your clear dedication to helping out complete strangers.

 

 

 

P.S. - As for the spring I'm going to go with the PSG-1 Systema 200% (300% if you think it can handle it - I'd like 450+ FPS is possible on otherwise stock internals) and this Firefly hard bucking (unless the Madbull Fishbone works so I could fix the double-feeding without actually removing parts from the gun). Obviously I will go with the simple self-made stock nub replacement and a simple teflon mod. Thanks so much, yet again!

from my experience, the firefly bucking i had was worse for the air seal than the stock bucking. i would use the G&P 80º bucking that was mentioned at the end of the last page. since someone had good luck with it, i would imagine someone else could.

and about the double feeding. it seems that a few users just had to lube their magazines and hop up a little bit to fix their issues with multi feeding. try that first.

and your welcome, its always good to know about your gun.

 

I half regret selling my two but i couldnt justify having a Dragunov that wasent semi, and it was too weakly constructed to survive a GBB conversion.

 

The mods i did to them are as Horseman said quite simple, if you can find a peice of 1mm thick steel (approximately) and form it over the sear, fix it down with a screw or two to stop it coming off, then remove it, heat it up red-hot, and dump it into some powdered up coal, rub it through until it starts to cool, then heat it up red-hot again, burning the coal into the steel, once thats done, while red hot, dump it in some cold water quickly. Its a primitive but effective way to case-harden steel, and it will prevent the plate from being chewed out, the other benefit is if you spend some time to polish the steel plate smooth, there wont be any imperfections for the alloy piston to snag on and because the steel is so hard there wont be any problem of it being chewed by the piston

hmm, that's cool. i didn't know you went so far as to do that.

Edited October 5, 2010 by Horsem4n

[Bane]

 

hmm, that's cool. i didn't know you went so far as to do that.

 

I'm sure i mentioned it at least once. One of my SVD's just had the sheetmetal mod, the other one was too far chewed up so i had to completely machine the sear flat, then screw on a new block to act as the catch part of the sear.. painstaking irritating work esp considering the crapmetal the sears are made from.

[Mshtuff]

I will probably end up giving the G&G bucking a try - thanks for pointing that out. I'm not going to buy much for this thing as of yet since I've gotten it to be very predictable.

 

Teflon taped a little of the bucking to the barrel, sealed the O-ring on the cylinder a bit better, cleaned and lubed everything and cut an O-ring to replace the missing nub - fires much better than ever. Oddly enough Horseman, I lubed the magazine on a whim about twenty minutes before I saw your suggestion to do so, and after around 30 or so shots it hasn't double fed once, and normally would every 2 or 3 times. Way more consistent (with accuracy as well) than it has been since I first tried it out.

 

I also came across this replacement sear, made specifically for the A&K model (I simply don't have access to any of the required materials for your wonderful suggestion, Bane - very much obliged by the way!). However, I have no idea if it is sturdier than the original or how reliable this company is. I may end up purchasing it when I come into a bit more money and let you guys know, just for reference. As of yet I have no need for any repairs of the like. Except of course, my "holey" bucking.

 

For a temporary power upgrade, would anyone object to trying a small spacer for the spring? I'd like to give this a try just for a bit of fun when shooting cans for target practice/testing my scope, but it obviously isn't necessary. And perhaps ideas on what materials to use?

Edited October 6, 2010 by Mshtuff

[Horsem4n]

good find on that sear, never seen that one. wonder if there is any other places to buy it.

 

and its definitely possible to make a spacer for the spring for an FPS boost. i have access to hundreds of washers in my basement, so i would just find a bunch of the right size and keep going to the max i could stuff in there. but if you dont have anything like that, bring your spring guide and spring to a hardware store and find the right size washer. buy a bunch and use what you can.

 

EDIT: however, that website has a bunch of cool stuff on it.im going to be searching for feedback.

Edited October 6, 2010 by Horsem4n

[Username_Here]

good find on that sear, never seen that one. wonder if there is any other places to buy it.

 

and its definitely possible to make a spacer for the spring for an FPS boost. i have access to hundreds of washers in my basement, so i would just find a bunch of the right size and keep going to the max i could stuff in there. but if you dont have anything like that, bring your spring guide and spring to a hardware store and find the right size washer. buy a bunch and use what you can.

 

EDIT: however, that website has a bunch of cool stuff on it.im going to be searching for feedback.

 

 

That Czech site had those like a month after the A&K was released, in fact, I think I even posted a link to it in here? (Might of been another forum if not)

 

Also, that czech site is safe to order from. Beck when I had one of my M24's I used there piston inside of it. Machine marks could be found on the items, but for a 50$ cylinder set it was still very nice.

[Mshtuff]

That Czech site had those like a month after the A&K was released, in fact, I think I even posted a link to it in here? (Might of been another forum if not)

 

Also, that czech site is safe to order from. Beck when I had one of my M24's I used there piston inside of it. Machine marks could be found on the items, but for a 50$ cylinder set it was still very nice.

 

 

I was sorta wary about ordering from them - good to see a recommendation for them. I will probably end up ordering it since there is a shallow groove in the stock sear already.

[Wingmann]

Don't let this die

 

[Horsem4n]

sechs.

 

currently, according to the one on the wall at my shop, they come with 500FPS springs. if i haven't said that already.

[Wingmann]

sechs.

 

currently, according to the one on the wall at my shop, they come with 500FPS springs. if i haven't said that already.

The one pictured was measured at the dealer at ~490 (10-shot avg). I got ~480 here, average of 10 shots too. Variance is very low. All shots are 3-4 fps from one another.

[aznriptide859]

Has anyone else seen this? A CO2 conversion for the gun

 

http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/accessories/conversion-kit/for-aegs/pas-co2-conversion-kit-for-aandk-svd-sniper-rifle.html

 

Brilliant idea.

[l96ninja]

Do want, but does anyone know if FPS is adjustable?

[Wingmann]

Do want, but does anyone know if FPS is adjustable?

It doesn't look like it is...

[l96ninja]

It doesn't look like it is...

Thought not, but figured I'd ask.

 

Still, that light cocking for 560 FPS is nice, I'm seriously considering buying one of these things.

[Wingmann]

Thought not, but figured I'd ask.

 

Still, that light cocking for 560 FPS is nice, I'm seriously considering buying one of these things.

I'd like to see that same cartridge but with a green gas valve