A&K SVD PICT'O'RAMA + first look

[Kamigawa]

Rusting?? I would love to see pictures of that.

Is pot-metal supposed to rust at all?

[Bane]

Rusting?? I would love to see pictures of that.

Is pot-metal supposed to rust at all?

 

 

Potmetal is a weird one.

 

its engineering term is "Whitemetal" its used to make quick, cheap and effective castings.

 

There's no set "Recipie" for whitemetal, its basically entirely designed around making intricate, low-strength castings.

 

That being said, the chemical composition of potmetal changes alot, depending what is needed

 

If its a high strength casting needed, such as car parts, with little needed to casting quality (surface finish etc) it'd be mostly zinc with a very high percentage of aluminium and magnesium.

 

If its decorative it would be zinc, lead and Sulfur to increase its "flow" when molten.

 

I'd assume airsoft parts would be using a "High strength" mix, however that being said, the easier it is for a cast metal to "flow" the cheaper it is to make the part (Faster casting times, lower melting temperature) so cheaper guns will have the worst quality of cast metal.

 

There are also quite a few people putting small percentages of Steel into Whitemetal to increase its strength, the fact the gun is showing a few signs of rust would indicate this is the case

[Horsem4n]

yes, its rust, unless my gun is growing mold, but i wouldn't expect that on the outside...

[Jumprefusal]

For the AtoZ owners reading this thread, the magazines DO work. I just bought two and both fit fine. Bit loose, but they hold and function.

[Coldgunner]

Anyone know of a good takedown guide? never taken down a boltie before and a little gunshy about doing it without guidance.

[Bane]

Anyone know of a good takedown guide? never taken down a boltie before and a little gunshy about doing it without guidance.

 

 

The SVD design is so simple a small child can get it right.

 

 

Basically, rotate the top receiver catch lever downwards towards the grip until it is about 90 degrees to horizontal, then lift teh top cover off.

 

There you will see the spring guide, piston assembly, yadda-yadda

 

There are two screws holding the spring guide/ assembly on, take those off. Dont be afraid of it flying out randomly, its hooked on quite nicely.

 

Carefully lift it off. The main spring, return spring, both guides, and the piston can now be removed.

 

On the side of the receiver there is the pin that stops the selector from moving too far. that pin holds the trigger mech in place, tap it out lightly from the side opposite the safety/fire selector. The whole mechanism should fall out now.

 

With that out, rotate the top cover release lever until the flat on it is level with the rest of the gun, that will allow you to remove the bolt itself.

[Schultz98]

can anyone give an opinion on the cheapsoft scope being sold nowadays with this at pandaairsoft?

[Bane]

i have one of the cheapsoft chinese SVD scopes here and it is utter total ######. The field-of-view is completly *albatross*, the eye releif is *albatross*, the illumination is carponzola, and on this particular one if you put the LED illumination bulb in it rotates the tube internally and shifts the crosshair off alignment.

[D-JHapyMeal]

Myth confirmed:

Dont buy cheap Chinese stuff!

[Bane]

the A&K at the game on Saturday. The cocking started to get really aggro after a while so i dropped it for the M14..

 

[Coldgunner]

Any word on the real wood furniture?

[Puding]

my px wood finally turned up, its about the same as a lot of the chinasoft wood, its some soft wood rather orange finish, the real sword wood if far superior but then again it cost a lot lot more, comparing the battleaxe wood to the real sword is like comparing an ikea table to regency rosewood table, but with a refinish and some aging it will turn out fine, it fits well and adds a nice balance to the long svd

 

real sword on the top and a&k svd at the bottom

 

 

[Horsem4n]

Any word on the real wood furniture?

yeah, came out a week ago on gunners.

http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/produ...c93718fe7306ac8

 

Puding, does the wood kit feel sturdy? and is the stock the same shape or more comfortable than the plasctic stock?

also, any tips on how to refinish the wood kit?

[Travis_2]

I wonder what a non orange wood would look like on it...

[l85 guy]

Would someone be willing to post pictures of the trigger mech, preferably the inside?

[Jumprefusal]

The china wood is never going to look right until they make a laminated (layered wood) kit. Cyma got on the ball with their latest AKMs (the wood is surprisingly awesome), hopefully the rest learn from them.

[sniper1988]

I got the new "upgraded" on today, 500FPS and no barrel wobble, upgraded trigger seer and 6.03 tight ball barrel.

 

Got to say there bloody brilliant guns for £100, cant really complain at all.

[Kamigawa]

Upgraded? As in "upgraded it myself", "the shop did it", or "A&K made a better version of the gun"?

[Horsem4n]

the only upgraded part i see is this "upgraded trigger sear". the gun came with a tight bore from the beginning and mine does 500 fps.

 

i don't think he understands what trasher meant by barrel wobble, but that doesn't matter.

[mrbishi]

Just because A&K say its a tightbore done necessarily make it so.

 

Id rather have a decent 6.08 TM/CA whatever than the so called tightbore 6.03 barrels clone companies say they stick into the guns.

 

The A&K barrel is shít & all the FPS in the world wont make up for it.

[sniper1988]

Supposedly its A&K Dragunov v2. Yes it had a tightbore barrel, but I was quite sure it wasnt 6.03 before. From what I've heard people have been suggesting upgrades that they should add and A&K have upgraded it.

 

@Kam Thats how I bought it. e.g. standard

[KAR98]

Hi guys!

I have one of this... see my review, deep fire 6,02, M190, guarder hard buking

SVD review from Chile

Edited November 23, 2009 by KAR98

[Disajim]

Hi guys!

I have one of this... see my review, deep fire 6,02, M190, guarder hard buking

SVD review from Chile

 

[Horsem4n]

Well i've done two games with it, and i've given it a considerable bit of tuning/tweaking/overhaul, and alot of bedding shots (About 1500 atm which is alot through a "Bolt" sniper)

 

Problems i've noticed:

 

Hopunit is held in by two 4mm grub screws, the bolt actually hits the hop unit, with alot of use or if your in the heat of battle and trying to get quick follow up shots you'll release your bolt home, which means its hitting against the hop unit, hard. This will slowly chew into the groove that holds the hop up in place and push the whole barrel unit forward.

 

Solution to this was to retap the holes for 6mm grub screws that have a rounded end on them, i also bedded a small rubber o-ring into the groove to act as a bit of shock absorbtion.

 

Barrel wobbles loose: Simple fix as above

 

Bolt doesent always go "home" to the same position, giving inconsistent shots

Solution: Take all the burrs off the bolt itself, and the bolt slides, a little bit of grease on the slideways and if you feel like you need to shim the return spring a little with some plastic/rubber tube until you get a good firm hold on the return.

 

I'm also looking into grooving the air nozzle so it will "Click" into position with the existing detent in the hop unit

 

Inconsistent FPS:

 

The inconsistency problems i've noticed with the gun are due to airseal and inconsistent bolt travel. There's also a few odd ball ones.

 

Metal/Metal contact: the metal piston scrapes against the metal cylinder. Because the piston is anodized, this is actually quite a problem, as even though aluminium is a soft metal, Ali Oxide, and Ali Anodizing, is actually very hard (60 rockwell) this means your piston acts almost like a very fine file, meaning it'll be abrasive and scratch into your cylinder slowing it down and giving you inconsistent shots.

Solution to this was use a X-Ring of slightly bigger diameter than standard, this held the piston "Central" to the cylinder and minimized the scraping effect on firing.

 

Wearing of the sear: Simple solution, make yourself a metal sear-seat, that matches the profile of the rear of the piston, so that when the piston is cocked instead of bearing on a flat surface, it bears onto a curved surface, spreading the load easier. This also helps by holding the piston a little straighter. The sear-seat can add a little to the height, and the thickness of the original sear lug, and not compromise performance or bolt pull length. Mines just held in by two little 3mm High-Tensile screws.

 

Other tweaks done

 

Trigger pull is kinda heavy, but as someone has mentioned there's a very small hole infront of the trigger guard, tap this out for 3mm and fit a grubscrew- voila! adjustable trigger.

 

However if you do this and adjust it to the point where your trigger pull is nice and light, your safety wont work! solution is to file the little arm of teh safety down a bit so it engages on the sear in its new position - simple job.

 

Screws Stripping:

 

This is always a big fear for me on guns with Zinc Potmetal bodys. The metal is soft, and does not like being undone and retightened overly. So to counter this i completely re-threaded the whole gun with whats known as "Helicoil" or "Recoils"

 

Basically you drill the hole a little bigger than standard size (for a 6mm metric thread you'd drill it 6.1) then tap it with the special tap supplied, and using the tool you wind in a hardened stainless steel thread (looks much like a little spring) this means the actual thread doing the work is steel meaning you can undo it to your hearts content and not worry about stripping the body

ok, im preparing to do the overhaul of it starting with the helicoil stuff. but, i dont know what sizes to use, can you tell me what ones to get from this site:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-269-thre....aspx?pagenum=1

and also, what size drill bits to use. please, this will help a lot and ill deeply appreciate it.

 

also, i would love to see pics of the mod you made to your piston sear please. i have an idea of what to do, but i want an example to finalize it.

[Bane]

ok, im preparing to do the overhaul of it starting with the helicoil stuff. but, i dont know what sizes to use, can you tell me what ones to get from this site:

http://www.thetoolwarehouse.net/c-269-thre....aspx?pagenum=1

and also, what size drill bits to use. please, this will help a lot and ill deeply appreciate it.

 

also, i would love to see pics of the mod you made to your piston sear please. i have an idea of what to do, but i want an example to finalize it.

 

 

The standard screws on the rifle are Metric M3 & M4. I suggest getting a pack of M3, M4 & M5.

 

I tend to replace M3 screws with M4's wherever possible (I.E. where room allows) as M3 grubscrews have a tendency to strip when you try and lock them up tightly.

 

I also suggest purchasing a full new set of grubscrews to suit. High-tensile steel.

 

Ok note on Helicoiling. Its a very delicate and CAREFUL process. Make sure you have plenty of room to run the tap through (I.E. REMOVE the barrel BEFORE running the tap down(It may sound silly but it does happen )

 

Also, the Tap supplied is whats called an "Intermediate" tap, i.e. the first couple of threads are tapered to cut smoothly, so you have to keep running the tap through carefully until it stops cutting material.

 

With the helicoils, they are supplied in lengths, i.e 1.5D, 2D, 2.5D, "D" means "Depth" and the 1.5/2/2.5 is a multiplier.

For example M4 X 2D = twice the diameter in depth.(8mm)

So measure the thickness of what your helicoiling before you install them.

 

The other thing you can do is count the threads inside the hole, then clip the extra threads off the helicoil. You want the helicoil to be about 2 threads SHORTER than the actual hole.

 

With the drill bits, its pretty easy. For M3 you need a 3.1mmm drill, for M4 its a 4.2, for M5 its a 5.2

 

I'll get a photo of the modified sear in a few days for you.