trustkill Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) I'm not sure It's supposed to go flush with the bolt carrier. I think it extends the carrier by 2-3mm to keep the detent from cracking the lower. That is unless I don't understand how the extension works. Also it's a press fit so removing it is near improbable. Edited March 9, 2010 by trustkill Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 The flange of the extension should sit flush. How close are you? A rubber mallet might not get the job done. Ive had to use a regular hammer and a block of wood in the past. A harder mallet might get the job done too. If the receiver is closing you must be very close to flush. Â Ive had a few of them go in quite easily with only a few hits. Others took more work. The extensions themselves are cut to VERY close tolerances. I can assume that some of the bolt carriers come out with slightly different inner diameters due to the nature of casting. Â As far as getting them out: they will come out with enough work. Its not easy though. They were designed to be tight so they dont ever come loose while in the gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
sacairsoftsn00py Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 I am actually about 1.5x to the thickness of the "lip" away from being flush to the bolt carrier...perhaps it will hammer its way the rest upon use? If not, no biggie. The extension will still do its job as intended. Â Â The head on my cradle airsoft actually got smushed some in the process. It doesn't get in the way and the oring is still in tact. I will leave it be as is. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slipknot1971 Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) Left my rifle at work this weekend and so I didnt have it handy to do the video last night. Grabbed the camera today so I could do it today at work and realized I left the delta ring wrench at home! So, Ill do it tonight when I get home. Ill post back when Im finished. Â Â No sweat amigo....whenever you are able, we'll appreciate it no matter what! Â p.s. how exactly the extension works inside the gun????...i am guessing that when the rifle is open the detention pin holds the buffer inside the buffer tube....and when it's closed, the detent pin is pressed releasing the buffer....am i right????...or... is it that the detent pin is always holded in 'cause of the pin and then released when the gun is cocked???? Â Â as i always say...i'm a apprentice here with this kind of platform....and trying to learn the most! Â Â a friend .....J. Edited March 9, 2010 by slipknot1971 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 Slip, you are basically right. Â When the receivers are closed the detent pin shouldnt be able to touch the buffer. But it does. By extending the length of the carrier the buffer cant touch the detent because the carrier is holding it far enough back. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slipknot1971 Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) Slip, you are basically right. When the receivers are closed the detent pin shouldnt be able to touch the buffer. But it does. By extending the length of the carrier the buffer cant touch the detent because the carrier is holding it far enough back.   hahahaha...im learning and having good guessings damn!...lol...good friends here!!!!...and AWESOME..im buying mine and other team members too on april... Edited March 9, 2010 by slipknot1971 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
senators2904 Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 HHHHHEEEEYYYYYYYYY UUUUUUUUUUUUU GGUUUUUUUYYYYYYYYYSSSSSSSSS... so my m4 arrived today... upon opening the package i didnt see any serial codes on the gun... in fact the gun is quite bereft of any markings other than the fire selector group. i bought three mags in total to fool around with. now its like 50-55f out here and and i put about ten mags through using green gas, more than half of those mags were emptied on full auto, the gun when i opened it was lubed pretty well. Â My question is how often should i clean and relube the rifle itself, and with what lube specifically... i remember reading about rc oil or something along those lines. another thing that kinda annoyed me was every time i opened the gun i had to use a hammer and screw driver to pop the pin out, i notice that the up and lower from the body pins perspective doesnt sit completely flush on the side where the bolt release is and i can push the pin in up to that point with my hands but after that i need a hammer to go the rest of the way. either way its still pretty tight which i know is a good thing but for most models ive seen the body pin extraction looked rather easy. thanks for any feedback guys. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 Ill leave the bulk of maintenance advice to Raven1, as he is probably the pro in that department. I will make a few remarks, however. Â RC shock oil is great for the mag valves but its not ideal for the piston. I use a heavier silicone based grease for piston parts as it sticks better and is less likely to get blown away into the hop chamber. Â The body pins are going to be tight for a while. I had to use a pin punch to get mine out at first. Over time (and MANY disassemblies from testing prototypes) I can now push them out with just my fingers. They are still a good fit though and my body has no wobble. Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
senators2904 Posted March 9, 2010 Report Share Posted March 9, 2010 (edited) @ t_hum  thats great news now when you say heavier referring to the grease is there like some indication on the bottles of silicon lube that determine its weight like for example, when it comes to printer paper theres 20lb, 22lb, 24lb, etc. something along those lines or is it just by the look of it? Edited March 9, 2010 by senators2904 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 (edited) I dont think my tube of lube has any sort of indicator of the grease's weight. It just says "Synthetic Grease". I think the important part is that its a silicone grease and not an oil or spray. Â EDIT: Found it here at ACE hardware stores in the US: http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/super...041.html?ref=42 Â I got mine at a bike shop. Anything similar to this will work just as well. Edited March 10, 2010 by t_hum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Speed= Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Funny. My body pins are pretty loose that sometimes I accidentally push them out all the way. Then it's a huge pain to get them back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 (edited) Barrel installation video is up. Â Edited March 10, 2010 by t_hum Quote Link to post Share on other sites
senators2904 Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Thanks t_hum i'll go and pick some up tomorrow after work... and referring to speed's post ive done that aswell, and it is pain to get that pin back in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Rookie Ab Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 A good fix for the body pins, RS body pins,I run them in both of mine and no more pins popping out. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 A good fix for the body pins, RS body pins,I run them in both of mine and no more pins popping out. Â How different are they compared to KJ pins? Â Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
trustkill Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 How different are they compared to KJ pins? Â The only thing that makes the KJ Pins annoying is the retaining pin that locks it in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
johnyew Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 The only thing that makes the KJ Pins annoying is the retaining pin that locks it in. Â But doesn't RS have the same design as well? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raven1 Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 @ Senators2094 No Need to bang the pins out with a hammer, using 1 hand grab the gun body with your thumb in the trigger well and your other 4 fingers on the top of the rail on the upper receiver, give it a squeeze using your 'Kung Fu Grip' and you'll find the pins move in and out easily.  RC Car Shock oil for the magazines about every 10 - 15 Gas Refills 10 Gas Refills if you're in a desert climate or if your fling the mags in the dirt (Like I Do) 15 Gas Refills if you're in a humid climate, If You Top Off and Never Let The Mags Empty Of Gas, Oil When You Notice Slight Drop In Recoil / FPS  3 Drops Is ALL You Need - Make Sure The Valve PoPs Back Out Quickly And You're Good To Go!  It Takes No Time To Pop Open The Upper, Remove The BCG and Inspect The Piston & Cup, Check The O-Ring And Swab Some Grease On There, Lube As Necessary,  I Love To Do This On The Playing Field! ???WHY??? Because It's Kewl As Fawk & Bishes Love Blow Back! I'm Just Sayin,,,   t_hum and I have found that silicone grease works best http://www.acehardwaresuperstore.com/super...041.html?ref=42  @ Johnyew RS Pins work great and it is the length and outside diameter that matter (Yes Kiddos SIZE Does Matter), Here's a link to show you what we're all talking about and you'll see once the pin is in why it stays in and works great! This is the 'take down pin' or the rear pin which in the AR world is used the most. Use Them Guys - They Work Great! http://dynamicarmament.com/items/ar-15-m-1...npin-detail.htm  Quote Link to post Share on other sites
suicidalsnowman Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I'm seriously considering selling off some stuff to buy one of these  How many mags do you guys find that you need to skirmish effectively? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
slipknot1971 Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 Barrel installation video is up.   Thank you man...i saw it already..and i think the tricky part its the one dealing with the delta and the gas tube...but really helpfull indeed! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Raven1 Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I'm seriously considering selling off some stuff to buy one of these  How many mags do you guys find that you need to skirmish effectively?   I've found to Skirmish the KJW M4 Effectively All You Need Is 1 Magazine!! NO WAIT - That's Just ME!!!  I have over 13,000 Hard Beans through the gun with Only The 2 Magazines I first bought with the gun.  I never shoot full auto in games, rather I shoulder, aim and fire as the gun is accurate and responsive.  I don't 'Lone Wolf' it in games and have done well with only the 2 magazines.  All depends on your style of play,,, Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 WOW. What a read! Thanks to everyone that has posted ideas, fixes, tests, etc. Â There was a question about the Japanese version of this weapon. It has been released here in Japan with the cheapest street price of about 65,000 yen. Magazines cost about 6,000 yen. As was previously mentioned, Tanio Koba stated they would not service the KJWorks models, but I ended up buying the KJWorks model anyway as I can buy 2 for the cost of one Japanese version. Â I stopped by the Tanio Koba website and there were a few interesting announcements that I thought might interest some of you... Â The USMC version was released January 26th. A winter "High cycle buffer" was also released in January. ( http://www.taniokoba.co.jp/m4a1_gbb/hi_buffer.html ) The homepage basically says this improves winter performace, but that he suggests putting the original in when summer approaches. It's 2100 yen. Â Tanio Koba is directing people to Yamatoya's to get their custom M4s ( http://www2.enekoshop.jp/shop/yamatoya-s/ ) They are VERY expensive. Â It doesn't look like you can order a twist barrel directly from Koba's homepage, and a search at laylax doesn't show anything their either. Â I will try to follow up if I have any other information. Â Â Does anyone know if the Madbul Gemtech TALON System or JP Rifles kit would fit on the KJW? Â Â Â Quote Link to post Share on other sites
suicidalsnowman Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 I've found to Skirmish the KJW M4 Effectively All You Need Is 1 Magazine!! NO WAIT - That's Just ME!!! I have over 13,000 Hard Beans through the gun with Only The 2 Magazines I first bought with the gun.  I never shoot full auto in games, rather I shoulder, aim and fire as the gun is accurate and responsive.  I don't 'Lone Wolf' it in games and have done well with only the 2 magazines.  All depends on your style of play,,,  Do you have to do a lot of field reloads with those? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 A winter "High cycle buffer" was also released in January. ( http://www.taniokoba.co.jp/m4a1_gbb/hi_buffer.html ) The homepage basically says this improves winter performace, but that he suggests putting the original in when summer approaches. It's 2100 yen. Â Im going to assume this is for guys using duster in the winter. Im not sure a part like this has a whole lot of functionality outside of extremely cold environments in conjunction with low pressure gasses. Â Still neat to see some more interest in the platform. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted March 10, 2010 Report Share Posted March 10, 2010 It would be for us in Japan that are pretty much forced to use duster gas or HFC134a. Â ps. t_hum. I emailed you via your homepage regarding TBB and other parts. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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