Reppyboyo Posted December 8, 2011 Report Share Posted December 8, 2011 The hammer you can get at most places, they dont sell the roller on its own. As for the hop arm, dont know. Might want to email support@weairsoft.com. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tvo18 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 Alright guys I was wondering if anyone knew where I could find a loading nozzle or the complete nozzle. I found it on evike for $28 but 10$ shipping is insane for a little part. http://www.evike.com/product_info.php?products_id=35232 Or is there an upgrade made of stronger materials? Thanks in advance. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 CWI airsoft www.bbdragon.com.tw They sell I believe $35 for 2 complete unfortunately there isn't any upgrade except i-hop up by RA-Tech which strengthens the Nozzle port via additional steel ring on the port. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
tvo18 Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 ^ Alright I just checked that site out and was about to purchase it but it didnt say anything for shipping it went to paypal for 32.13, do I get charged for shipping when it comes? How does this work? Also another question http://www.bbdragon.com.tw/product_info.php/products_id/2430 thats what I found. Is that the complete nozzle assembly? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
carabinero Posted December 15, 2011 Report Share Posted December 15, 2011 (edited) Yeah, that's the complete nozzle that includes the return spring and O ring, just remove the old nozzle from the BC and install the new one, the pin holding the return spring only comes out one way, check that you punch the pointed side of the pin first, I think this is the right side of the Bolt... Regarding the shipping, after you pay for the nozzle email them specifying your order number to ask for a shipping quote, then they will send you a PayPal invoice for the shpping amount, that's it, Robert from BBDragon is a really nice guy to deal with, he will take care of your order promptly... Edited December 15, 2011 by carabinero Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 How readily does your nozzle jump back into the carrier if you pull it out? I took the plunge and bought one of these, but the nozzle doesnt seem to snap back into position like say, my USP or MP9 does. Any ideas besides shortening the spring? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mnmc10 Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 slightly loosen those 2 screws located above the nozzle. its the part that prevents the nozzle from going all the way out of the bolt. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 The issue isnt that it wont come OUT, its that it seems like theres too much friction for the spring to pull it back IN, I was just wondering if this is something a good douse of sillicon oil is going to fix, or wether lots of people have had this problem. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Silicone usually fixes it. Either that or unscrew the guide rails about 1/4 of a turn. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 I sanded the back of the guide rail inserts down, and now its as smooth as a whistle, thanks guys. This WE will satisfy my needs until the SRC comes out Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 My next question is, Has anyone worked out the details on THIS yet? Id love an english translation, or the dimensions of those plastes he's put in, thats one thing thats REALLY bugging me on this gun. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 what is it for? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 18, 2012 Report Share Posted January 18, 2012 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kullwarrior Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 thats a really old repost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 20, 2012 Report Share Posted January 20, 2012 I know exactly how old it is, It was in response to LordElpus' question. I wanted to know if anyone had the dimensions or a better explanation of those 2 plates that have been installed. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
ollie_ty Posted January 23, 2012 Report Share Posted January 23, 2012 But after watchign it and then looking at the guide a few times, it seems that it actually gets rid of the bolt catch mechanism, and I think Id rather have that than add a bolt hold open feature, which I can just as easily do by pushing the catch up with my finger from inside the magwell. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Waffelcopter Posted January 29, 2012 Report Share Posted January 29, 2012 Has anyone tried to run this gun on a madbull CO2 charger? My local field doesn't allow propane (indoors) and charges way too much for green gas so I was wondering if this was a possible reliable substitution Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Simeon Ng Posted January 30, 2012 Report Share Posted January 30, 2012 Right then, just had some fun with my G39C along with a chrono. 2 mags, both fully gassed up with propane, one warm one coldish. (mild more than anything) NPAS installed. Warm mag (approx 20c room temp): 390 356 332 325 328 354 326 335 316 339 316 328 309 310 309 329 Cold mag (kinda, about 14c): 366 337 345 356 336 328 328(?) 338 338(?) 298 319 316 307 (chrono dies.) Note, the result in bold are suspect as my chrono started to run low then died. Really should charge it more often. Some shots did not register also. So what have I learned here? Seemingly, the less gas in mag gets better consistency over time. First shot in a full gassed mag is overly powerful (no surprise). The mag lips are not speedloader friendly. The mag takes about 10-12 seconds to full fill, may wish to limit this to 8 from empty to avoid a overpowered first shot. After my chrono test, keeping in mind both mags had 30 rounds expelled in semi auto, I reloaded them both (no extra gas) and put them to auto. First mag (warm), no sign of cool down till the last few rounds. Oddly, it fired about 15 BB`s fine, 5-6 fell short (underpowered) then the remaining fired fine again. Dont know why it did that. Second mag, 29 rounds fired perfectly. However the bolt locked back when there was still one BB in the feed lips. Released the bolt, fired and locked back again fine. Finally, reloaded the first mag again with what BB`s I had left in the loader (10-12), all fired fine again apart from the last. Which again, the bolt locked back with the BB sat in the feed lips. So bit premature bolt catching going on with the last BB but hey its reliable! Plus I find it kinda cool needing to check the breach to see if its clear but thats just me. Somewhere in between that lot I did a quick accuracy test. 0.2BB`s (I generally use .25`s) and it was overhopping. Couldn't adjust at the time because I didn't have a tool on me to move the hop. (still bloody tough) On the more useful side, apart from overhopping they went very straight and maybe had a /slight/ right curve at longer range (no figures sorry, just a guesstimate at best). Overall, Im impressed once again by this GBBR. Cant wait for sunday to skirmish it, with 2 mags. Best bring the loading tool with me. Do you know where you can find the npas for the we 39? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Studie Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 After upgrading the G39K internals, replaced everything the RA-TECH stuff.. now the semi-fire mode does not work. Full-auto works almost perfectly. The semi-fire will not "clack" the trigger seems to be stuck... How exactly does the trigger springs and hammer springs sit? Did I do something wrong with the selector switch? I have no clue whats going on with the gun right now. Please help! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 If I remember rightly, the parts need bedding in. Try dumping a few mags full auto then go back to semi. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Studie Posted February 5, 2012 Report Share Posted February 5, 2012 If I remember rightly, the parts need bedding in. Try dumping a few mags full auto then go back to semi. Bedding in... Hmmm okay let me give it a try and see what happens. I know when I switch the gun to safety and then back to Semi it engages the trigger so it works again. But then after 1 shot it becomes stuck again and the same symptoms happen... I'll tape up my mags and run it full auto for half an hour and see what happens. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
swishy Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Hey guys. So I've been looking at this gun for a little while now, but wanted to get the in general opinion of it before I buy it. Do guys like your G36's? Any major gripes? Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
mr.ying Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 (edited) Hey guys. So I've been looking at this gun for a little while now, but wanted to get the in general opinion of it before I buy it. Do guys like your G36's? Any major gripes? Thanks. Alright just to let u know ahead of time this gun is amazing, but there is a lot of problems with it. Pretty much if you play stock with this gun prepare to have everything broken within a couple of games. The good part about it is the blowback, it's nasty. So prepare to spend some money to upgrade everything before you bring this baby on the field. What you will need to upgrade is the full trigger assembly. You can buy it here, http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_GBB_Hammers_and_Triggers_RA_Tech_CNC_Steel_Trigger_Assembly_WE_G39.htm Then you will need an cnc charging handle, and valve knocker. http://www.x-fire.org/etop/we.html The reason why u need upgrade all these is because WE tech, uses *suitcasey* pot metal to build the internal. With the amount of blowback this gun brings the pot metal is gonna break. That why you will have to buy ra tech upgrades, steel and x-fire charging handle n valve knocker. Once you upgrade that everything should be fine. Till now i love it. If you ask about x-fire.org it legit, i just bought my stuff from them, it came really fast. Edited February 7, 2012 by mr.ying Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Atsalakotos Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 Alright just to let u know ahead of time this gun is amazing, but there is a lot of problems with it. Pretty much if you play stock with this gun prepare to have everything broken within a couple of games. The good part about it is the blowback, it's nasty. So prepare to spend some money to upgrade everything before you bring this baby on the field. What you will need to upgrade is the full trigger assembly. You can buy it here, http://redwolfairsoft.com/redwolf/airsoft/Accessories_GBB_Hammers_and_Triggers_RA_Tech_CNC_Steel_Trigger_Assembly_WE_G39.htm Then you will need an cnc charging handle, and valve knocker. http://www.x-fire.org/etop/we.html The reason why u need upgrade all these is because WE tech, uses *suitcasey* pot metal to build the internal. With the amount of blowback this gun brings the pot metal is gonna break. That why you will have to buy ra tech upgrades, steel and x-fire charging handle n valve knocker. Once you upgrade that everything should be fine. Till now i love it. If you ask about x-fire.org it legit, i just bought my stuff from them, it came really fast. Or you can read 63 pages of this thread and see that people dont have any major problems with this gun stock, and actually more problems with the Ra-Tech upgrades.Shot a couple of thousand rounds with this on Propane and in hot climate and only part that failed was my firing pin which is a 3 dollar part. Oh! And two of my magazines' valves that were leaking and fixed by simple tightening. Even if your bolt catch fails as reported by another user, its another low cost part (4$ if I recall correctly) Cleaning and proper lubrication is the key with gas guns. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted February 7, 2012 Report Share Posted February 7, 2012 +1 on the above, not so plus one on the post before that... Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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