Panoptes Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 just got information from WE, the g36e or K comes with equal inner barrel. What does that mean? Do you mean actual length? Meanwhile... I love these things! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Riko Posted January 27, 2011 Report Share Posted January 27, 2011 What does that mean? Do you mean actual length? it means that the inner barrel is longer than the one found in the initial G39c so they didnt kept that inner barrel, but also made a longer inner barrel to go with the e and k version Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 (edited) Thanks for all you comments guys. HFC is the only gas easily available to us here in Japan. Propane is available as camp fuel, but it is mixed with butane so we can't use it for airsoft. Now and again we can get some from one of the US Military bases (if someone is kind enough to buy for us), but this increases power way above Japanese 1J limits. As I demonstrated in the video the power was fairly consistent for the first 10 shots (getting around 88 meters per second). When I tried full auto (for the first time) it demonstrated the problem. The video footage was taken literally 5 minutes after opening the box. I bought this one from a Hong Kong retailer, where as I got the G39C here in Japan. As you can see in the video I use the same magazine in the RAS, then in the G39C, and back to the RAS. The G39C works fine but the RAS has problems. I have done no mods or adjustments to anything. All stock. The video shows the first 2 or 3 mags through the gun. I will try giving it a once over with lube, and will check the hammer roller. Any other feedback appreciated. Thanks again. Edited January 28, 2011 by dstole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Break100 Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 it sucks, if i were you i will check the nozzle set (including valve rocket), and if necessary compare them with g39c. Have you tried to use your g39c BCG in you K? may be you can find some idea. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Break100 Sorry for my ignorance, but what is BCG? I actually ordered two of these, one from Global Airsoft (this one giving me trouble) and one from RSOV that will arrive tonight. I will try the second one and see if has similar issues. If it does then I will have to assume it is a problem with HFC gas and the cold temperature. If the one from RSOV works then I will have to continue to look at other solutions. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Break100 Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 BCG means bolt carrier group. The trouble also happened to my g39c when i modified the nozzle to increase the fps. It seems that the gas that uses to kick back the bolt carrier to recock the hammer is not sufficient. That's why i suggest that you to compare between the two, just curious. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Thanks for that Break100. Update: I put the mags and HFC gas under the kotatsu (a japanese table with a heather under neath) for about 10 or 15 minutes this morning to heat them up a bit. After sitting in a 4 or 5 degree room they were very cold both last night and this morning. I filled the mags with the warmer gas and the problem was solved. I refilled the mags and the RAS went through a magazine. So perhaps to was simply too cold? I will pull apart the thing later tonight when the second one arrives and do a comparison of the three, but I feel a bit better believing that once the warmer weather comes along this thing will be OK. Here is a quick video after the mags were warmed up. Sorry for the framing, couldn't see where the camera was pointed Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Inner or outer? If inner, disassemble the hop unit and shim the rubber/barrel where it leaves the unit until it wobbles no longer (with teflon tape or similar). If outer, tighten the big nut under the handguard. I had a touch of both wobbles, rock solid now. I'll take it down and take pictures if anyone needs it, my camera is working for once Hey Kruck, I just read back through this thread, but yours was the only mention of doing a take down of the inner and outer barrel. If you have time I would really appreciate a quick pictorial on how to remove the inner barrel and hop up unit as well as the outer barrel. Thanks. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 Super easy. Do a normal field strip, bolt out etc. Take the front handguard out. unscrew the barrel nut. pull off the outer barrel. (Keep in mind this sometimes pulls the gas block with it, careful not to drop bits.) Push the inner barrel backwards, towards the back. The entire hop chamber will come out the back. Unscrew the single grub screw on top of the chamber and push the inner barrel & hop unit out (backwards again). Remove the adjuster. Unscrew the small screw at the bottom of the hop unit. Pull apart the hop unit, careful not to drop the hop arm and nub. Done! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted January 28, 2011 Report Share Posted January 28, 2011 I'll get the camera out tomorrow morning when its daytime and do a full pic takedown thingy, if I remember. If anyone wants it desperately shoot me a PM tomorrow morning to remind me Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Pacoson Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 I would like to see the pics of the NPAS installation done to this GBB. reading before some people filed 2mm off of something and 2 collums off??? not sure I would like to increase the range and FPS for field use with a longer barrel , but have the option to lower to low 300s for close quarter combat. All in all, if pics are being posted. Reppyboyo, did you install the NPAS with success? what are your high and low fps? if you could please. Jonathan Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) Installed NPAS pretty much from day one. Just file 1-2mm off the columns/nubs and install. This mostly suits my own fps needs (350 max) so you may wish to file off more. NPAS at highest fps is roughly 360-380 depending on temp. Lowest can be right down to not firing at all and anything in between. Have it set for 330 at 18C, in current temps (0-6C) it is around 300fps or so. Edited January 29, 2011 by Reppyboyo Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Installed NPAS pretty much from day one. Just file 1-2mm off the columns/nubs and install. This mostly suits my own fps needs (350 max) so you may wish to file off more. NPAS at highest fps is roughly 360-380 depending on temp. Lowest can be right down to not firing at all and anything in between. Have it set for 330 at 18C, in current temps (0-6C) it is around 300fps or so. I've read from a few sources that the RA Tech NPAS will strip or get lose (and thus self adjust as it pleases) due to the recoil and this is holdning me back from purchasing one, allthough I need it to get the FPS down to CQB levels. Any input on this from you folks that have it installed? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
LordElpus Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 I've read from a few sources that the RA Tech NPAS will strip or get lose (and thus self adjust as it pleases) due to the recoil and this is holdning me back from purchasing one, allthough I need it to get the FPS down to CQB levels. Any input on this from you folks that have it installed? Which is the reason threadlock was invented. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Which is the reason threadlock was invented. Threadlock as in a screw not moving in its threads without a proper tool or threadlock as in Locktite ? Also if you mean it as in Locktite, wouldnt locking the threading kind of defeat the purpose of having an adjustable nozzle ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) A few pages back, someone suggested a flathead screw driver to take off the barrel nut. No problem I thought. So Friday night I had the barrel nut at chest height so I could get good leverage. Flathead in there. Giving a good push, when the screwdriver popped out of position and the gun slammed me in the face... FAIL! I sometimes wonder if I am just too clumsy for this mod stuff... Waiting for pictures before trying again Edited January 29, 2011 by dstole Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 I had mine flat on it's back (top side) on the floor while straddling it between my legs and then used a flathead for leverage sideways... Should be safers, just watch your sack Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Riko Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 A few pages back, someone suggested a flathead screw driver to take off the barrel nut. No problem I thought. So Friday night I had the barrel nut at chest hight so I could get good leverage. Flathead in there. Giving a good push, when the screwdriver popped out of position and the gun slammed me in the face... FAIL! I sometimes wonder if I am just too clumsy for this mod stuff... Waiting for pictures before trying again lol! that was me btw ;-) if I screw or unscrew I always make sure that I turn away from my body Quote Link to post Share on other sites
kruck Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 (edited) To start with, you need to go from this: To this: Use something to rotate this thing (I used the pliers end of a multi tool.) towards me in this picture is loosening. When you reassemble, make sure you tighten this as much as you can, careful you don't snap anything though: Slide the outer barrel off, there is an o-ring on the thing the nut screws onto. I can't remember if that was already there or if I added it - if you haven't got one I'd suggest putting one on: Push in the inner barrel and hop unit out towards the back: Locate grub screw on top of the hop unit: Unscrew with 1.5mm allen key: slide the housing down the length of the barrel: Use small Philips head screwdriver to dismantle hop unit, take off adjusting-thingy first: How everything sits on the inside: Wrap in teflon tape like so, both sealing the hop rubber to the barrel (a similar technique used with VSRs etc. to improve consistency), and tightening the fit between the inner barrel and the hop chamber: Reverse the steps for reassembly. The only fiddly thing is the adjuster, which needs a little fiddling to get on right. Make sure you tighten all the screws nice and tight. The grub screw can be replaced with a longer one as Riko suggests, however I haven't found this necessary on mine. Apply threadlock/loctite if you're worried about anything coming loose. There are two methods two disassemble the nozzle to the floating valve (i.e. to install NPAS), this is my preferred method. Push out this pin, it only goes out one way: Undo the two screws with a small Phillips head screwdriver here: And another picture: Pry out the plastic things the screws were holding in, you'll have to push the nozzle forwards quite a bit to get a good angle on it. They should pop out relatively easily: Nozzle out of the bolt, notice the silver pin about 2/3rd the way down from the left: Push the silver pin out, again it only comes out one way (one side is wider than the other, push towards the wider side), requires very little force: The little silver pin holds the two halves together, and the nozzle return spring in (the first pin you punched out at the start holds the other end of the nozzle return spring to the bolt): With the two halves apart, you can let the floating valve drop out. I haven't got an NPAS yet so specific instructions with regard to modifying it are best addressed to someone else, but this is how you get to where you need to get to: Simply reverse all the steps to reassemble. The fiddly bits here are getting the pins to go through the spring - do it in the exact reverse order and be patient - its pretty easy. The other method I find a lot more difficult to reattach the spring which is why I didn't bother with it. Make sure you put the pins in the right way, otherwise it's all fairly simple. Edited January 29, 2011 by kruck 3 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Wow thank you for an excellent post ! Very informative and great pictures! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Kruck, Thank you so much for that, exactly what I needed! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 What's the overall consensus / verdict on the overhopping? I'm using 0.25s and they're going skyward right at the end of their travel. 0.3g? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I get the same with 0.28 and after 5 meters I can see them go up (alot)... Does a replacement rubber adjust this or does one need to modify the actual hop mechanism ? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I though I should bring a problem to everyones attention. The magazine shells are VERY brittle and break easily, mainly due to the semi stupid design. As im sure you all know the inner workings of the magazine are held in place on the shell via one small screw. The screw itself is of poor quality as it started to thread after just 4 times. The worst part is that the inner workings are held to the outer shell by a very thin peice of plastic, which has broken on 2 of my magazines. One was dropped from gun height (im 6ft4) and almost totally shattered the base plate and the holding mechanism. The other was only droped from around 1ft and the same thing is happening to that one. So basically I need to find a way to either reinforce or and some kind of shock absorbtion. Not that its the worse thing in the world and the rest of the gun more than makes up for this but still, the mags should be able to handle a couple knocks and drops without severe damage. This happend to anyone else? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Dropped my mags several times, mostly when coupled. Only broke a single lug. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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