mnmc10 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 spencerman, i suggest you do the teflon tape mod on the hop rubber then see if it eliminates the huge gas exhaust from the ejection port. my rifle does that even in 30deg c but after sealing the hop rubber very little gas escapes from the ejection port. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
crump3t Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 Does anyone that has the RA-tech K conversion know if the FH is CW or CCW; or if it's removable at all? My entire next project is based on the answer. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spencerman Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 That was the third mag used in full auto to get that much gas plume, which was intentionally the idea for the photo to look cooler . I didnt notice it doing that much under normal useage, but will look closer next time that I use it and maybe make that mod. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 I think I asked this before but I'll expand: What are the chances of the following fitting the G39?: • CA RAS • Real Steel SL-8 Rail • Army Code AEG Body kit • Steel AEG Flash Hider? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted January 18, 2011 Report Share Posted January 18, 2011 The Rail should fit. Flash hider will fit RAS should fit but ask others.. The body wont in anyway but why would you want to put the Army Code body on it anyway? The WE body is far closer to the real deal Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 How is it closer? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Well the real deal is not metal bodied rather reinforced polymer. The Army Code is metal. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 No, the Army Code is polymer also - and with full trademarks (see pic). This is why I'd like to transfer it. But no matter - I'll just get the WE body engraved. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Oooo sorry about that! I allways thought it was metal, not sure why! Im really happy with the sticker! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Would you be able to do me a quick favour?... accurately measure the distance between the screw fittings on the top rail, front to middle, middle to rear? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
GingaNinga Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Quick question... I have the WE G39C. I was just looking at the video that WE put out of James firing 18 mags in a row. In the video, when a mag is empty the bolt locks back, he puts in a new mag, and gives a pull on the charging handle to release the bolt. I can't for the life of me do the same thing with my G39C. The only way to release the bolt with a magazine in the gun is to use the bolt release button just in front of the trigger. Maybe I am being too gentle, or perhaps there is something wrong with my G39. I have never opened or disassembled it, so I am not sure what could be causing this problem. Is anyone having a similar issue? Any suggestions would be appreciated. Thank you. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Reppyboyo Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 The new mag must have bb's on it to do that. An empty mag will keep the bolt locked. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
bankz5152 Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Ive tried aswell you have to use the bolt release. Ill measure it tomorrow, really busy today and tonight! Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Spencerman Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 In response to the army code body, I used to have one, it certainly is a plastic rather than metal, and I am pretty certain from what I remember about the way that it fitted that it will not fit. The other thing about it is that the trades are no longer like that, and it says BmbH instead of GmbH, but that is a minor point, anything was better than that silly 'electric air gun' phase manufacturers went through. If you plan to get it engraved and want me to send you reference pictures then I can, as I am going to get mine done soon, so have a load ready! It is a shame that the army code charging handle wouldnt fit, as apart from the fact that it doesnt lock to the side by pushing it inwards, the whole cut and welded steel finish is much closer to the real thing than the WE (look near the front and you will see a crinckly bit, on the WE this is smooth, so probably cnc'ed). On a plus point, the rubber shock pad from the CA aeg will fit on the WE with a little bit of persuasion. With reguards to the charging handle locking back and releasing. I have had no problem with mine, it works fine and exactly as it should. The button is a little stiff, but works fine none the less. As long as there are rounds in the mag (the follower wont raise the nub on the magazine until the last shot has been loaded, as long as there are rounds in the mag it stays down, same as on pistols) simply pull the handle rearwards slightly (not very much, and no real force is needed) and the bolt will release as the catch will drop because the nub will not be locking it. Maybe give it all a spray up with some silicone spray (the first thing that I did to mine!) and cycle it a few times manually to let it work in, lock and release the bolt the way that are now for a few times, but make sure to get some spray on that part of the mechanism. Dont be afraid to strip down this gun to a basic level, it takes seconds and is really easy to do, and there are loads of videos on youtube and the suchlike that show how to do this. You should be able to release the bolt three ways as it is designed. The first two are basically the same but depending on whether you are left or right handed, by pulling the paddle to either the left or the right, and pulling back on the charging handle. This should release the bolt. The other is to push the bolt release button upwards (located inside the trigger guard). Have you tried releasing it by pulling the handle with no magazine in? This should work exactly the same as if there was a magazine with round in. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1st Commando Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I have the army code and the WE body sat here and the finish is near identical and definitely both polymer Quote Link to post Share on other sites
t_hum Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I had an issue with my bolt catch as described above. I found that the coating on the lever was thick enough to limit the freedom of movement of the lever past the shoulder bolt that holds it to the fire control box. I removed the lever and sanded the front and back surfaces. When I reassembled it I used blue locktite on the shoulder bolt as it seems prone to working loose with use and vibration. Basically make sure the lever can move freely. The spring that actuates it is small so any hangups or friction can cause the lever not to return. Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Ive tried aswell you have to use the bolt release. Ill measure it tomorrow, really busy today and tonight! No dramas, thanks. Don't suppose anyone could do the honours tonight? Quote Link to post Share on other sites
1st Commando Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 I'll have a go in a bit but it is the same as aegs in as far as aeg top rails fit Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Would you be able to do me a quick favour?... accurately measure the distance between the screw fittings on the top rail, front to middle, middle to rear? Ahoy hoy captain. I hope this anwers your question (measuring from center of screw to center of screw.) Measuring center of screw/hex hole : FRONT TO CENTER, 22.3CM, CENTER TO REAR, 7.4CM (you'll have to work out inches yourself if you wish) Used MM graded precision metal ruler. 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Panoptes Posted January 19, 2011 Report Share Posted January 19, 2011 Much appreciated. I think my wallet's going to be $500 lighter in a few moments... 1 Quote Link to post Share on other sites
aznriptide859 Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Since this wasn't posted, WE has released the rest of the G36 lineup, including the E and the K with different variants. Prices range from $200-250ish. E front w/ C rail http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2258&osCsid=335f37d431b40a7ad9f9068b7c9da35a E front w/ scope handle http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2257&osCsid=335f37d431b40a7ad9f9068b7c9da35a K front w/ C rail http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2256&osCsid=335f37d431b40a7ad9f9068b7c9da35a K front w/ scope handle http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2255&osCsid=335f37d431b40a7ad9f9068b7c9da35a K front w RAS http://www.gunnerairsoft.com/catalog/product_info.php?products_id=2254&osCsid=335f37d431b40a7ad9f9068b7c9da35a Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Riko Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 Lol you can see from the color difference those are not from WE, especially the stock and the handguards on the E's. I bet they are G&P Quote Link to post Share on other sites
Riko Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 from their website: http://www.weairsoft.com/upload_product_images/157file1 I still bet those are G&P aftermarket parts they use for the conversion since the color difference is visible Quote Link to post Share on other sites
NonEx Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 from their website: http://www.weairsoft.com/upload_product_images/157file1 I still bet those are G&P aftermarket parts they use for the conversion since the color difference is visible Could very well be camera flash causing those color variations. They don't appear to be very professional photos. It's like with the KSC G19 frame, looks totally off on a normally taken photo but in real life it's fine. I don't know how credible that shop is thought, they might be chop shopin for all I know Quote Link to post Share on other sites
4boost Posted January 20, 2011 Report Share Posted January 20, 2011 (edited) Ehobby has them up. You can see the color variation there as well (at least in the RAS variant). http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-g39-ras-gas-blow-back-rifle-black.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-g39e-gas-blow-back-rifle-black.html http://shop.ehobbyasia.com/we-g39k-gas-blow-back-rifle-black.html Has anyone heard when they will be releasing the RAS kit mentioned in the Xmas video? Edited January 20, 2011 by 4boost Quote Link to post Share on other sites
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