Billy210 Posted March 12, 2007 Report Share Posted March 12, 2007 Didn't StealthBomber say he was going to write one for the review database? I think we should perhaps remind him Anyway, review or not, I'm getting one of these in a couple of weeks. For that price you can't go wrong really. Edit: I've PMed him and asked nicely for a little review Link to post Share on other sites
rewez Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 gunfighters, here's the picture of the box taken from rsov.com. there's no company name on the box, just the brand name mb-01. also, there are 4 versions of it being sold.. 1. gun only, 2. gun w/scope 3. gun w/ bipod 4. gun w/ bipod & scope.. mine's the gun only version. about the cylinder head locking pin/screw, i took a 2mm diameter drill and drilled a hole right over the pin about 3mm deep. cylinder head unscrewed easily. my cocking indicator, after slimming it down a li'l with a dremel and changing the screw on the piston head to a longer one, is now working perfectly!! also painted the tip red to make it more noticeable. Link to post Share on other sites
JKL Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 cocking indicator, after slimming it down a li'l with a dremel and changing the screw on the piston head to a longer one, is now working perfectly!! also painted the tip red to make it more noticeable. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Can you make some fotos of how you did it? Link to post Share on other sites
DarkLite Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's the DE/AGM one - it's merely a rebranded Warrior 1. Link to post Share on other sites
rewez Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Can you make some fotos of how you did it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> JKL, first of all, i think DE's mb-01 is the only gun with the pin installed on the cylinder, so check your's first beforehand. instead of posting a photo, i thought it might be easier for you to understand by drawing a picture so click thumbnail to see get a drill about 2mm in diameter and drill a hole about 2 or 3mm deep. it's important that you DON'T DRILL ALL THE WAY THROUGH into the cylinder head as you'll then get a hole and all the air will leak through it when you fire the gun. so just drill deep enough for you to unsrew the cylinder head. then, get a pair of long-nose pliers, insert each tip into the two holes on top of the cylinder head and unscrew! it will come off easily. pretty straightforward, eh? Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 I managed to get hold of a second hand Warrior 1 sub frame today and fit it to my BE L96.Just for reference they are virtually identicle,exept obviously the BE one is plastic and two of the small bolt holes needed enlarging.Fits nice though. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> What's that fitted inside the BE subframe? If it's solidly stuck in there it means you won't be able to fit a fake mag to the gun. You need that space to be empty to screw the sides of a chopped-up mag to. Can you make some fotos of how you did it? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> BEFORE:- Note that spring is UNDER the lip of the indicator, forcing it upward. AFTER:- Spring is now ABOVE lip of indicator, forcing it down. Note that you might need to trim a couple of coils off the spring so it's only just long enough to hold the indicator in the down position. Link to post Share on other sites
rewez Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 JKL, sorry, i didn't read the question correctly. took half an hour to draw the picture only to realize you were asking about the cocking indicator... shoot! anyways.. assuming you know how to take apart the cylinder (read Pendra's excellent guide), take out the indicator rod by pushing it out from inside the cylinder and use a sandpaper or a dremel to slim it down just a li'l throughout the entire length of the rod. it'll make the rod move back and forth more freely. you can paint the tip of the rod if you want to make it more noticeable. also, be sure to replace the screw holding the piston head in place with a screw about 5mm longer since the stock screw isn't long enough to push the rod backwards. sorry, i don't have a photo my indicator rod but click thumbnail to see my cocking indicator. Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Whoops. I thought he meant the mag indicator. Ah well, somebody will ask sooner or later. Link to post Share on other sites
MooCow Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Whoops. I thought he meant the mag indicator. Ah well, somebody will ask sooner or later. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> you lagger Link to post Share on other sites
JKL Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 Thank you rewez. Link to post Share on other sites
Pendra Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 I've just received an MB-01 L96. It was posted around mid february. The cylinder head in mine is regular. No locking screw in the cylinder. Weird... Edit. I take it into pieces and assembled it. The cylinder head is different. The holes are shallower then the original W1. There is no lock screw. The piston assembly is unchanged. It is screw on with an O ring and a silent rubber at the front. The screw there is short as usual (meaning no cocking indicator). The rest of the cylinder assembly is the same. The trigger house is slighly different. The difference is the fire prevention thingy. The bigger block of metal that prevents the movement of the trigger as long as the cocking is incomplete. So the connectione between that and the trigger goes in a different way. Apart that, the plastic housing the sear and the cylinder guide are the same. The barrel and the hopup unit are the same, too. The barrel is loose and I can't tighten mine. I wish they stop drilling a hole into the bottom of the inner barrel. There is a small screw there to lock the outer barrel. Without the hole, you could tighten it up and make the outer barrel rock solid. The 2nd generation was manufactured that way. After the 2rd gen, they started to drill a hole there, defeating the purpose the screw. If you tightened it up you would lock the cylinder instead of the barrel. I choroned mine after fixing the cocking indicator, cleaning the barrel (it was pretty clean in stock), re-greasing the piston. It is shooting 480 FPS with Marushin 0.2 and 420 with G&P 0.28. The pull is light as usual. Link to post Share on other sites
rewez Posted March 15, 2007 Report Share Posted March 15, 2007 The cylinder head in mine is regular. No locking screw in the cylinder. Weird... I guess only Korean imports have that locking screw on to discourage internal upgrades. Even all AEGS imported here don't have the hop-up bucking installed when they are sold due to power restrictions. But of course, the shop owners install them for you. BTW, we can't order directly from gunshops overseas because Customs will seize it right away. I guess it's due to the fact that gun control here in Korea is very strict and thus, gun related crimes are very rare (regulations against airsoft guns are pretty strict too). Only licensed distributors are allowed to import and sell them. Hence, the reason why all guns and gun parts are 2.5 or 3 times more expensive than anywhere else. I had to pay almost $300 for my Chinese L96. It's a total rip off!!! Anyways, back to the topic... Concerning the trigger house, mine has a different configuration too. Seems to work fine though. Apart from the screw on the cylinder, everything else is just as Pendra has explained. I've used a combination of Loctite and teflon tape to secure the outer barrel. It doesn't move at all now... and I don't think I'll ever be able to unscrew it Link to post Share on other sites
Billy210 Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 Has anyone heard anything about this site? land warrior airsoft It's stocking the Warrior 1, and appears to be in the UK.... just thought it might save some of us time (if not money!) ordering from hong-kong. Link to post Share on other sites
DINO68 Posted March 16, 2007 Report Share Posted March 16, 2007 What's that fitted inside the BE subframe? If it's solidly stuck in there it means you won't be able to fit a fake mag to the gun. You need that space to be empty to screw the sides of a chopped-up mag to. Its a weight,there is one in the front and rear too.As far as i can see,it can be unscrewed from the subframe. Link to post Share on other sites
Avneet Posted March 18, 2007 Report Share Posted March 18, 2007 I think i've found the best deal so far for a l96 clone. I just haven't heard of anyone with this brand yet(WELL). It comes with scope and bipod for $140. I just want to hear from someone who has it because that seems a little to cheap to have everything and still be the same as the other clones. Airsplat Linky Link to post Share on other sites
zard Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 I think i've found the best deal so far for a l96 clone. I just haven't heard of anyone with this brand yet(WELL). It comes with scope and bipod for $140. I just want to hear from someone who has it because that seems a little to cheap to have everything and still be the same as the other clones. Airsplat Linky <{POST_SNAPBACK}> The WELL is the Warrior 1, same thing. Only difference is you've found one packaged with a bi-pod. Link to post Share on other sites
ChronicDK Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 On the website that Avneet has linked to, I can see there is a L96 clone with a UTG brand... It costs 10 dollars less, but is it better than WELL? Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 On the website that Avneet has linked to, I can see there is a L96 clone with a UTG brand... It costs 10 dollars less, but is it better than WELL? <{POST_SNAPBACK}> I'm sure Darklite will put me straight if I'm wrong but here goes... I think the UTG L96 is BE one which has the plastic subframe. Well and Warrior are the same gun and have a metal subframe to mount the action on. The BE is a copy of that gun but with a plastic subframe rather than metal. If the UTG is a rebranded Warrior it'll be identical. If it's a rebranded BE it'll have plastic bits. At best it'll only be the same as the Well gun. At worst it'll be the BE one with naff plastic bits. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Someone on here got a UTG and said that it too had a metal subframe. Link to post Share on other sites
Stealthbomber Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Someone on here got a UTG and said that it too had a metal subframe. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> That's fairy nuff. If the UTG is a rebranded Warrior/Wellfire L96 then it'll, obviously, be identical in construction. The only possible difference might be if UTG have had weaker springs fitted. I seem to recall somebody saying that some of these guns had the 500fps spring replaced with a 350fps spring to give the internals an easier time. Link to post Share on other sites
Pendra Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Final thoughts about the PDI hopup unit: I just about had it with that junk. Removed the levers, the tiny spring, the O-ring, the never matching rubber tube, the 2 tiny screws and the 1.5 hex key and binned them for good. Then one of my friend drilled a hole into the outer barrel, right above the hopup rubber and added a standard screw into the hole. Meanwhile I carved a V shape out of a small plastic tube from a ballpoint pen and taped it into the hopup unit, above the rubber. So now I can set the hopup with a standard screwdriver, over the barrel (not poking from below with a short and nimble hex driver). The screw pushes the plastic V shape and the tape makes sure the shape doesn't move. And if it does move, then the screw is long enough to push the rubber on its own. The more I think of this. I think it would be easier to add the groves to the prometheus barrel and insert it into the stock hopup unit. Link to post Share on other sites
infected Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 That's fairy nuff. If the UTG is a rebranded Warrior/Wellfire L96 then it'll, obviously, be identical in construction. The only possible difference might be if UTG have had weaker springs fitted. I seem to recall somebody saying that some of these guns had the 500fps spring replaced with a 350fps spring to give the internals an easier time. <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Here's what gunfighters said the other day: I got my shipment from leapers to day, so here the facts on the utg L96 Aloy sub frame-confirmed. metal but i don't belive is alumlition it seams to be a zink alloy like the receiver of the gun(nonmagnetic) Tight bore barrel-confirmed. "ruffly" 6.04 non working cocked indicator- needs the same tweek as the Warrior1 come with the same plastic rod for unjaming BBs.. IE no tip to use it as a cleaning rod. all an all it looks like a V2/3 warrior, same good points, same bugs however <{POST_SNAPBACK}> Link to post Share on other sites
ChronicDK Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 Which brand is this L96 copy? http://www.wgcshop.com/pcart/shopper.php?i...Sniper%20Rifles Link to post Share on other sites
White_Rabbit Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 well it says warrior 1 so my guess would be that it is the warrior 1 Link to post Share on other sites
ChronicDK Posted March 19, 2007 Report Share Posted March 19, 2007 DOH My bad! Question for everyone: Which brand of the L96 copy would you order? Link to post Share on other sites
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