Jump to content

The Complete Tanaka Thread


The Chef

Recommended Posts

m700 LTR is 2700g/1010mm.

 

M40a1 is 2745g/1110mm.

 

M24 is 3810g/1110mm

 

M700P is 3150g/1167mm.

 

AICS is 4300g/1135mm

 

You would have to contact other retailers and see if they would get one in for you and at what expense. Try FIRESUPPORT.

 

Good Hunting ;)

 

So, comparing the m700P to the m40a1, how much of the extra 57mm is conveyed through the inner barrel length in the m700p? and is it worth the extra 405g as I want to get a fairly light rifle as it makes crawling and movement in general a lot easier.

 

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • Replies 2.3k
  • Created
  • Last Reply
So, comparing the m700P to the m40a1, how much of the extra 57mm is conveyed through the inner barrel length in the m700p? and is it worth the extra 405g as I want to get a fairly light rifle as it makes crawling and movement in general a lot easier.

 

Thanks

 

The only m700P I have had was KJW, so not a fair comparison :P . The KJW's main problem was caused by eratic power and hop. The KJW was more about moding the rifle to gain accuracy over 50m. I suggest the 555mm inner barrel conversion is a very practical option for the m40a1, M24 or AICS with conversion kit; as the provided endcap fits the outer barrel, with that length inner.

 

You are correct to think about size and weight of the rifle. Choosing smaller/lighter really pays off in the field and is more likely to encumber you less, while avoiding damage/knocks. Also, less for opponents to spot.

 

I rate the m40a1 and would buy it again over the others. The LTR is nice but real woodwork is pointless if you intend to cam it all up and just attracts dings like an apple, bruises. Besides, the tanaka m40a1 cheek comb is perfect for me and the narrow/lighter build, results in my ability to move the rifle with more ease and agility. I found the denser m700p/m24 furniture was really nice on a range, but too much of a disadvantage when crawling.

 

The LTR is indeed shorter and lighter, but once you decide to convert to 555mm inner barrel, you need to run it through a silencer and that brings it up to equal the m40a1.

 

I sound like an m40a1 salesman :D .

 

EDIT: I don't think you need an inner over 555mm length unless you are hoping to shoot 3J+

 

Good Hunting ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

am I right in thinking that 3J is about 1000fps?!?!?!?! (328fps x3), I intend for 550 while I am in Spain, then changing it to local site limits when I go to uni (wherever I go).

 

Does this conversion kit also allow for a VSR hop rubber?

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=28726

 

as I have heard that VSR hops are the best and tanaka ones aren't amazing...

Link to post
Share on other sites
am I right in thinking that 3J is about 1000fps?!?!?!?! (328fps x3), I intend for 550 while I am in Spain, then changing it to local site limits when I go to uni (wherever I go).

 

Does this conversion kit also allow for a VSR hop rubber?

http://www.airsoftpost.com/product_info.ph...oducts_id=28726

 

as I have heard that VSR hops are the best and tanaka ones aren't amazing...

 

550fps with 0.20g = 2.8J

 

Power doesn't go up in a parrallel to velocity. You need far more power to accelerate.

 

eg. 1000fps with 0.20g = 9.24J

 

Yes, that hop kit takes VSR10 rubbers and barrels.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

so if I were to buy an m40a1, a good set of upgrades would be the 2roy conversion kit, 9ball hard hop rubber, PDI 6.05 or 6.03 555mm tightbore and a PCS bolt??

 

this would be in my price range, which is good :D any things I should change or do differently to this configuration?

Link to post
Share on other sites
so if I were to buy an m40a1, a good set of upgrades would be the 2roy conversion kit, 9ball hard hop rubber, PDI 6.05 or 6.03 555mm tightbore and a PCS bolt??

 

this would be in my price range, which is good :D any things I should change or do differently to this configuration?

 

 

Not for the time being ,unless your useing the 29 round mags , the 10 rounders do just fine as with gas pressures , maybe in time a co2 or hpa rig ,but for now all the above will fettle you just nicely for some 80 metres whackage

Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes. docs90 knows the score.

 

Here is mine (

) with those parts and the G&G mag parts (from a powerpack). I also have gasroute springs fitted, using green gas and madbull 0.40g

 

I suggest you upgrade the mag parts before venturing into external power. The standard impact plates will wear out after a while no matter what you do.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

so how reliable are these in the cold winter months of England? Will I be forced onto my AEG sniper rifle for winter?

 

I know the power is variable in this system, but I don't want to be hugely gas inefficient as my 1911 will already be gas inefficient (which I will be using regardless) and I don't want to waste too much money on running the rifle when I have a perfectly good substitute.

 

Thanks

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 3 weeks later...
T I suggest the 555mm inner barrel conversion is a very practical option for the m40a1, M24 or AICS with conversion kit; as the provided endcap fits the outer barrel, with that length inner.

 

Y

 

EDIT: I don't think you need an inner over 555mm length unless you are hoping to shoot 3J+

 

Good Hunting ;)

 

 

Quick one for all those M24 owners out there , im just about to start another tanaka project ,the end cap in the pax kit , will it fit the flutted m24 barrel ?

 

cheers

Link to post
Share on other sites

Hi to all in here, I've been airsofting a long time but just recently picked up a Tanaka K98k after being involved with WW2 airsofting for a couple of years. I'm lucky enough to have one with the BGS hop system fitted, and it's had appx 900 rounds through it since being fitted so just about bedded in nicely. I am totally astounded with the range and accuracy. I'm usung HFC Green gas and Madbull 0.4's and so far with very little range time have proved it to be accurate at 50m. I'll test it out on the 75m range when we get evening light back.

Any tips on care for the gun and more specific the mags would be appreciated. I dont need to up the power, with 0.2's it chronos at 470 and the 0.4's came in at 395 ish so I'm happy with that and I'll probably have to use summer gas when the weather improves, is there anything I should look at doing to improve the consistancy and possibly reduce the grouping?

I've had a look at zf41 scopes but I dont think they're worth the expense so I'll be sticking to open sights.

I've read all the threads on Comrades in Arms and have asked several of the guys there similar questions, I just thought I'd post this here and get a different perspective opinion of the gun.

Link to post
Share on other sites
  • 1 month later...

Ive finally completed my choate stock project. While the gun is apart for cleaning is there any DIY mods I could do to my m40 action?

 

BFOUR : All I can think of is to add electrical tape, to the inner barrel, where it contacts the large brass collar. Make it a snug fit to support the barrel and eradicate all that terrible slop/vibration found in the standard fitting.

 

Jimbothepainter : My best advice with the mags is to simply keep the exterior clean and slightly oiled to avoid rust. Green gas lubes up the internal o rings so no need to strip them. Be sure to ALWAYS leave gas in the mags to avoid the o rings shrinking and causing leaks.

 

Always leave the cocking handle down, in the loaded position, or apparrantly, the small internal springs can fade.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

Okay ive incountered my first big problem with my tanaka.

for some reason it only fires every second shot,but fires two bbs.

ive taken the mag out and the hammer seems to be hitting hard every pull of the trigger.

ive also changed the hammer spring in the bolt back to the origional but this made no difference,ive only used the rifle once in thepast year and it was fine the last time i took it out,since then its only been cleaned,and i didnt stip it down much even then.

anyone have a idea of what the problem could be.

 

pete

Link to post
Share on other sites

okay stripped the rifle down full and you were right the hop rubber was f*cked.

thats twice now that the metal pressure bar has cut through the rubber,the first time i noticed it wasnt to bad(and in my a.i.c.s),this time it had cut through that much that the bar was stopping bbs.

has anyone else found this problem happening

Link to post
Share on other sites

okay stripped the rifle down full and you were right the hop rubber was f*cked.

thats twice now that the metal pressure bar has cut through the rubber,the first time i noticed it wasnt to bad(and in my a.i.c.s),this time it had cut through that much that the bar was stopping bbs.

has anyone else found this problem happening

 

How many pellets have you put through your rifle with that rubber?

 

Mine is still going after about 1000 0.29g SGM shots and 1500 Madbull 0.43g

 

I am not that aggressive, or use "over hop" on this rifle, so have managed to keep the hop in good shape after 2 years of frequent use. I think performance has dropped off of late and a new 9BALL rubber may be on the cards at some stage.

 

Good Hunting ;)

Link to post
Share on other sites

its not fired more than 1000rnd i would say,maby even less than 500.

thinking about it i did have the hop set extra hard last time as it was wet and cold and i found i wasnt getting enough lift.

when i used my a.i.c.s it cut the rubber in under 500rnds aswell,it seems to be the sharp edges on the bar,ive ptfe tapped it,but i need to file it.

Link to post
Share on other sites

I must admit when i set my aics up around 5 months ago i did notice that the metal had cut into the rubbe , i did have a spare 9ball so i installed that and filled down the metal and ptfed the bucking ,and its still doing ok , i also did the same to the m24 which has yet to see 500 rounds and that seems ok ,you live and learn messing with tanakas ,i reccon

Link to post
Share on other sites

Unfortunately, with the warmer months coming, i'd quite like to construct another Tanaka M700. I've done the VSR thing, and whilst i'm unsure i could replicate the shooting spec of most people's amazing VSRs, i'm sure i could get better results than my old crsp one which couldn't hit a barn door. I did have a '700, but had to sell it after all the upgrading, due to needing the money.

 

So, if anyone knows of someone that is selling one then give me a shout please :)

 

It feels weird to be back on Arnies, and indeed back in this section.

Link to post
Share on other sites

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use and the use of session cookies.